The Prince of Wales in India;

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THE PRINCE OE WALES IN INDIA.

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FROM PALf MALL TO TIIK llX.IAl i:

SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OK LONDON *' DAILY TKL^G" M IT.

NEW YOHK

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^^^ Prince OF W,,^^

In India

OB

FROM PALL MALL TO THE PUNJAUB,

BY

J. DREW GAY,

SPECIAL COBRB8PONDBNT OF LONDON **DAniT TBLBOBAPH/'

If?

NEW YORK:
K. WUUTHINGTON, 750 BliOADWAY.

1877.

Printed for the Publisher, in the year 1877. by

MEAD & MO YN AH AN,

<'>87 Broadway, near Third St. Xkw York.

THE PRINCE OF WALES IN INDIA ;

OR.

From Pall MbU to the Fnnjanb.

BT

J. DREW GAY,

tlp*eial OorrtipoHdeiU qf th« LoiuUm " Daily Tdegrash."

NEW YORK:

I?. "wokth:ingto2t,

1877.

Or "b

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER. PAOe.

I. — First ImpressioiiB of Bombay •• .. .. 9

n. — Social Life in Bombay 19

in.— Receptions of Rajahs 29

IV.— The arrival of the Prince 45

v.— Royal Fetes 54

VI.— Life in Poena 73

Vn.— Games and Sports at Baroda 82

Vin.— The Voyage to €eylon 99

IX. — Cingalese Fairy Land 113

X. — ^Kandyan. Curiosities 119

XL— The Veddahs of Ceylon 132

Xn.— The jSacred Tooth 137

XIIL— A Week in Madras 142

XIV. — ^Indian Amusements.. .. 164

XV.— The Prince in Bengal 171

XVI.— A Sunday in Calcutta 179

XVIL— Polo Playing and Snake Charming .. .. 185

XVIIL— A Captive King .. 194

XrX— Life in Calcutta 200

XX.— Knight-Making 208

XXI.— The Sacred City of Benares 218

XXIL— A Levee of the Brave . . . • 235

XXIIL— A Review of Delhi 24t>

XXIV.— The Battle on the Ridge 249

XXV.— Feats of Skill and Strength 2 jT

XXVL—Jummoo the Magnificent 2G3

438868

CONTENTS.

IIKAFTBfi. PAG&

XXVII — Sporta in Cashmere 272

XXVIIL—Akbar's Capital 281

XXIX.— A Tomb and a Tower .. «. 287

XXX. — Native Courfcs and Prisons 297

XXXI.-— An Eastern Paris S05

XXXII.— Tiger Shooting and a Durbar 317

XXXIII.— Sdndia's AVelcome .. 326

XXXIV.— Scenes in Gwalior 336

XXXV. — Hunting in the Jungle 345

XXXVI.— Allahabad and its Sights C:.a

XXXVII.— English Life in the Hills i06

ILLUSTRATIONS.

A RhinoceroB Fight Frontispiece.

(The Ascent to the Temple of Parbutte, near Poona 77

An Elephant Fight in the arena, near Baroda 87

A Captive Tiger led before the Prince, after the Sports in ) g«

the arena, at Baroda )

Buddhist Priests exhibiting Buddha's Tooth to the Prince, ) ^qn

atKandy ' ] ^^

Native Princes at the Chapter of the Star of India, Calcutta 177

The Monkey Temple at Benares 223

Hunting in the Terai— crossing a Mullah 329

THE PEINCE OF WALES IN INDIA.

CHAPTER L

FIBST lUPRESSIOKS OF BOMBAY.

It was a bright autumn morning when we landed in India,
— ^bright not in the sense that you in England understand bright-
ness, but with a gleam and a heat which you only associate with
the midday glare of a hot summer's day, and not at all the cold
calmness of an English autumn. Nothing could be pleasanter
to all of us, heartily tired as we were of the sea and its belong-
ings, than at length to descry the long line of hills which told us
of proximity to Bombay. Had we not had the incentive tp
satisfaction which a three weeks' voyage engendered, the pro-
spect which presented itself, as the ship neared shore, would of
itself have been sufficiently delightful. Only five minutes ago,
and the sky was brilliantly lit with stars; now the sun's rays
were shooting up in the east behind the grey mountains, and
driving night away with startling rapidity. like a huge pano-
rama Bombay rose before us. Yonder on the right was the island
of Mephanta, with its caves and its jungle; away in front of us
Trombay Island with its mountains and precipices. Bombay
itself, skirting the bay, was thrusting out, so to speak, from the
lingering gloom into the advancing sunshine, its white houses,
its palm-trees, its pleasant hills and valleys, and its splefidid
harbour, and drawing forth, from those who now saw it for the
first time, repeated exclamations of astonishment.

It is difficult to say what Bombay looks like. The Bay of
Naples, to whiph thi^ home of Western Indian industry and gov^

iOf :/: :>;:Wirir TS£''fimNCE IN INDIA.

eminent lias often been compared, is not at all like it. You fail
to see the huge mountain overtopping everything. The lines
of hills which skirt the water and shut out the horizon from
view, fill you with surprise, but certainly do not remind you of
Vesuvius. They are peculiar to the place, and are like nothing
to which our European eyes are accustomed. Boldly out against
the sky stand Matheran and the outposts of the Ghauts, some
apparently extending for miles in a hard, straight line, as though,
by some tremendous convulsion of Nature, the peaks had been
sheared off, and a hard road made in the region of cloud-land.
Near by are hills with summits, which look marvellously like
ruined temples, columns, and monuments, fantastic results of
inexplicable forces. There is scarcely a hill with the orthodox
cone — ^nothing half so respectable as Snowdon or Pilabus. As
for the town, it is almost as irregular in appearance as are the
hills in the distance. Not that this irregularity is objectionable;
on the contrary, the very absence of sharply-defined streets and
i^egularly laid-out squares adds to the charm which the place
possesses. The white houses struggle down to the water's edge
in most curious fashion; i^hey are huddled together as though
every inch of ground was of the utmost value, and it was neces-
sary to crowd as many bricks and stones as possible into the
smallest conceivable space. You wonder, as your eyes move
along the strand in the direction of the fashionable suburb of
Malabar Hill, that some one did not suggest wider spaces be-
tween the houses in the valley, instead of leaving the land so
comparatively unoccupied in the higher ground. But once you
have landed, you find many of your preconceived notions upset.
The part which appeared to be crowded and close is, in reality,
onlf so down at the water's edge. Right through the centre run
wide roads, flanked on either side by fine houses and grand pub-
lic buildings, such as on a first sight one could scarcely expect
Bombay to possess. There is a magnificent expanse called the
Esplanade, with large trees overshadowing its pathways, and

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF BOMBAY. H

parade and cricket grounds on either hand. There are troops iu
review order on the right, and two cricketing elevens of Eng-
lishmen bowling and batting on the left, with the old-fashioned
scoring tent, the familiar soda-water and brandy bottles peeping
out of ice-pails, and a fashionable crowd of English ladies and
gentlemen watching the game and applauding the players. One
side represents the fleet, lieutenants, sub-lieutenants, and mid-
shipmen; the other side is drawn from a club which boasts the
title of Gymkhana. When the stumps are drawn, the battle is
undecided, the officers go to their ships, the Gymkhana to theii
homes, and the spectators towards the Apollo Bandar, to listen
to the band which plays near that landing-stage before dinner
\ach night*

Tift streets which pierce the strange-looking houses wherein
the natives reside are crowded to excess. The vehicle, not-
withstanding that its driver shouts himself hoarse and strikes
fiercely at passers-by, can scarcely move forward at a good
walking pace. Mohammedans, Parsees, Hindoos, Mahrattas,
Chinese, English sailors from the flying squadron anchored in
the harbour, negroes, Lascars, nondescripts from every known
place, are all here^ and are dressed in th^ir most brilliant cos-
tumes. Before every house is hung a festooned wreath of leaves
and flowers ; glass lanterns, to be lighted at night, are to be
seen everywhere. When darkness comes on, and the lamps are
lit, -when the coloured fires bum in the courts of the temples,
and the light is reflected from house to house by the burnished
metal work, for which streets in Bombay are famous, the sight
is magnificent in the extreme; even now, in the daytime, it is
marvellous to the unaccustomed eye. Bobes of vermilion,
scarlet, blue, and gold, richly chased jackets and flowing, white
burnouses, intermingle and blend with the olive coloured, naked
backs of those who own neither ornament or dress worth men-
tioning, but who are come out by tens of thousands to look at
ea<;h other. Does the eye fix upon the numberless head-dresses

12 WITH THE PBINCE IN INDIA.

worn % Then there are the Parsee hat, the European helmet,
the Turkish fez and snow-white turban, the turban of green
worn by the most favoured of Mahomet's own, and that of red
or pink, boasted by the Mahrattas of the hills. All kinds,
shapes and colours are passing in view like the varied glasses
of the kaleidoscope. How silent is the footfall of this mighty
mass of athletic men ! Occasionally a sandal may grate on the
hard road ; but, for the most part, the promenaders are innocent
of foot covering of any kind, and move along as noiselessly and
as stealthily as though absolute quiet were the object of their
lives. Ever changing in appearance, the tide of human life
rolls on, without the buzz of a European crowd, with scarcely
the sound of a single heeL

The rapidity with which colours melt one into another almost
bewilders the spectator : he can scarcely note that more than
half of those who are passing have marked their foreheads with
red paint, and that the ladies who are in the crowd have, in
many cases, very large rings passed through their particularly
small noses. The fashion of facial ornamentation is not wholly
unknown among sundry of high degree at home, only in these
Eastern lands it is brought to further perfection. If a dark-
coloured gentleman considers that his complexion would be
improved by a patch of yellow on each cheek, in front of the
ears, paint is not costly, and a friendly hand will quickly apply
the pigment. Should a lady think that a ring in her nostril,
and a little patch of crimson on her forehead, would add to her
other attractions, she follows out her convictions bravely. Even
the Nubian at Aden has' the courage of his opinions in this re-
spect. His instincts tell him that Nature was not prodigal of
beauty when she designed his countenance and hair. Does he
rebel ? No; he begins where nature left off, and with a knife
makes several delicate slashes on his cheeks, while, with a solu-
tion of lime, he rubs the top of his head, and colours his curls
a brilliant yellow. This is as it should be, and the conclu«(»
is acknowledged by the dwellers in Bombs'*

F1B8T iMPBBSSIOIfS Of BOMBAY. 13

Then there is the additional chann that an act of ornamenta-
tion is at the same time an act of devotion* It is combining
business with pleasure, satisfying conscience^ and pleasing the
mind — a two-handed comfort which renders the body a thing
of beauty, and morally constitutes it " a joy forever." So the
people have very generally daubed their foreheads all over, and
thus added to their beauty and their piety at one stroke. The
Mohammedans have a reason also for joining in the festivities.
It is the first day of Eamadan — a time for best clothes and, to
say nothing of best behaviour, a moment for sanctified exulta-
tion and religious hilarity. And with a firm belief in Dr.
Watts' aphorism that " Religion never was designed . to
make our pleasures less," the Mohammedan brings an extra
supply of betel-nut, puts on his choicest turban and robe, and
does his best to keep the feast. In this way the crowd is
recruited, and before the night comes on the roads are impass-
able, for the feast of lanterns is an abiding pleasure to the
native of India, and the brilliantly-lit houses, temples, and
statues may well be gazed at by a people whose faults, whatever
they may be, do not include a lack of appreciation for colour
and light.

Just whe^ we arrived Bombay was full of Rajahs ; and, if
proof of this were wanted, nothing would be easier than to
copy from the official list a long column of their names and
titles. But as at the best life is short, and the cognomens of
these dignitaries are not the lightest of reading, 1 will only
give a sample. I will not imitate the official report even in
this. Under the heading of distinguished arrivals stands a
series of extraordinary titles. Were they alone, they would be
grand in their very unpronounceability — ^if I may coin such a
word. But an ingenious official has attempted to make the
matter clear to the uninstructed mind, and to that end has
prefixed an oMas to each name. Thus we find admirable and
well-bom rulers placed on the list, and respnctiveW styled

14 WITS THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

Gungadharrao Ounput alias Bhaoo Saheb, chief of Meerajq^d ;
Ramchundrarao Gopall, aliaa Appa Salieb, chief of Jmnkhundi

There is always a pleasure in beholding the inexplicable.
Who that has seen them has not gazed with delight upon the
Sphinx, the Pyramids, the tablets from Nineveh, or the paint-
ings of Gustavo D<»:6t You cannot understand them a bit;
their very mystery makes you happy ; if you knew all about
them you would give them no more attention than you do to
the lions in Trafalgar Square or the Bethnal Green Museum.
Why, then, eliminate all pleasure ^m a contemplation <^ the
name of Trimbakrao Bam Purandhare by teUing in plain Eng-
lish who the gentleman really is, or bother peo{de by stating
that Luxumon Maharudra Swami is the ruler of Chafsil 9 It
may be pleaded as an excuse that very few know where Chafal
is, and that the explanation has merely a look of careful atten-
tion about it. But it robs the list of all romance, and makes
it a dry statement of unintelligibility. The only consolation
under such distressing circumstances was that we were informed
with great regularity of the visits <^ the Chi^s to the Governor
of the Presidency, and of his visits to them.

There is an old but admirable saying to the effect that
" every dog has his day." In Bombay, at festival times, every
Chief has his ten minutes. According to the Gk>vemment
statement, the aged Governor of Bombay, Sir Philip Wodhouse,
began his visiting at eleven A.M. punctually. From that time
till 4.30 P.M. he visited six fresh grandees every hour, winding
up this pleasant and entertaining diversion by an int^view
with Trimbakrao Bam Purandhare. We learnt with some
pleasure that betel-nut and the leaf called pan was presented
by each Chief to his Excellency, and that in each case the
Governor was placed by his host in the place of honour at the
right. But about the conversation the '^ Gazette " knew noth-
ing; and lb did not even state what weight of betel-nut his
'Qxceller^y acciunulated when he had jj^aid the last visit and

nnST IMPRESSIONS OF BOMBAY. 15

received the last offering. One source of amosement was, how-
ever, open to those who put their trust in princes. Every now
and then some fresh potentate arrived at one or other of the
railway stations or landing-stages, and was received with more
or less friendly effervescence. Among those who thus came
into the town was the Maharajah of Mysore. To heighten ex-
pectation, there was a guard of honour of a hundred men in the
little station at Byculla; a band stood ready to play; and the
Chief Political Secretary to the Gh>vemment; Mr. Ravenscrofb,
was on the platform. Presently the train bearing Mysorean
royalty puffed into the station. Eyes were strained, necks
craned forward, the band struck up, the Secretary^ advanced,
and from the mountain thus in labour there came forth, not
exactly a mouse, but a little boy of some twelve years of age,
so enveloped in gold and purple as to be all but hidden &t>m
view. Nor were his attendants the bold militairei that we
looked for. Some were dressed in blue and some in white,
some were not attired in very much of anything ; while as to
their arms, they were as much the representatives of almost
antediluvian days as they could well be. Some had match-locks,
others pistols — ^these being the descendants of the men who, in
days gone by, defeated Major Lawrence at the head of a British
force, and very nearly prevented our grasping the South of
India at alL Twenty-one guns were fired, the troops presented
arms, the band played, and the Boyal boy was hurried into a
carriage and taken from the station to Oumballa Hill.

As we returned to £yculla we looked over a gaol — ^the House
of Correction at Byculla — ^temporarily placed under the super-
intendence of Major Prendegast Walsh. The sepoys who stood
at the gates, the white sergeant warders who walked up and
down the garden, the coloured gentlemen who, with leg irons
clanking, were tending the plants and trees, and the bars, bolts,
grated windows and guarded doors, with notice to the effect
that no admittance is allowed "except on business" — what

16 WITH TEE PBINCE IN INDIA.

btbsinesa has a man in gaol f — were scarcely suggestive of merry-
making and rejoicing. You would be puzzled to connect this
establishment with the Prince's visit in any way, and ^t it had
something to do with it after all.

Received at the doorway by Major WaJsh, who is the most
courteous of officials, we mounted to what is called the Euro-
pean Hospital. Not to see the sick, however, for, fortunately
there were no white men sick in the place, but to see how
greatly even prisoners can contribute to the general mirth ; for,
in this admirably-managed prison the motto is to make each
inmate earn as much money as he can for the paternal Legis-
lature which finds him a hiding-place, and, turning every
opportunity to excellent account, Major Walsh was employing
the more deserving and clever of the people under his care in
decorative work for the coming festivities. In the room were
designs for the saloon in which, & day or two hence, seamen
and school-children were to be feasted*, and, albeit that the
workshop is a prison and the workers convicts, bright pigments
and skilful brushes had formed shields and banners which had
merit and beauty — such, indeed, as would please the Prince and
the people too. Close by were thousands of little tinfoil ban-
nerets of gold and silver hue, specially formed to decorate the
edibles on the tables when the mariners might rest and be
thankful. Descending a staircase, we entered an open yard,
into which a huge shed opened, and here we saw the continu-
ation of the decorative work. Artificial flowers of every kind —
for Bombay knows nothing of real blossoms in November —
wreaths, festoons, and brilliant paper-hangings of intricate pat-
tern, but admirable construction, were all before us. Thirty
or forty men were working away with all their might, not at
the degrading shot-drill or disintegration of oakum knots, but
with tinted tissues, weaving them tastefully into all kinds of
shapes, and learning from the study of art lessons of tender-
ness and care.

FIB8T IMFBESSIONS OF BOMBAY. 17

It was a humanising influence to which they were subjected,
and if the Eoyal visit effects no more than the mental improye-
ment of these rough, white vagabonds, it will yet have achieved
much good. Of course, the whole of the criminals were not
under similar training. To provide work for three hundred
and fifty of society's outcasts, black and white, is no easy task,
and ingenious must be the mind which can make the most of such
a mass of labouring power. Major Walsh had done much, as
we saw by the carpenters, who were making chairs and tables,
the men who were weaving mats and making towels, and those,
too, who were on the treadmill driving mills and machinery.
Nevertheless, there was a goodly company engaged in shot
exercise — ^an equally large number in cells. For some of these
latter a strong bolt or lock seemed to be a very necessary pro-
vision. Those villains, for instance, were pointed out whose
favourite avocation had long been of the Dick Turpin kind.
Their style and title is that of Dacoit ; and m their time they
have seen and done much at which men usually shudder.

Their chieftain stood at his cell door and saluted the Qov-
emor as he passed. A more perfect type of what is known as
the brigand universally could not be imagined. He would pass
current anywhere for a robber. His moustache and curiously
curled beard, his fierce eyes and gashed face, the great sabre
cut on his left arm, which he exhibited with some pride — a cut,
by the way, given him a short time since when he was captured
by a cavalryman, and cut down in the midst of his villany —
his dress and his very style of turban, all proclaimed him to be
an energetic scoundrel, who would as soon cut a throat and
commit a robbery as eat the food which was just being brought
him. His followers were fair imitations, but far behind their
accomplished master. Buffianism such as his was an accom-
plishment only to be gained after diligent labours for many
years, not an accidental art quickly learnt and easily assumed
It had been the life-long study of this estimable person, and ht

18 WlTM TBE PRtifOB IN INDIA.

had gained perfection by perseverance only. He and his two
promising pupils had each at various times attempted to escape,
and were in consequence the unwilling bearers of heavy irons
for the rest of their sojourn in Major Walsh's establishment.
Were it not for this, they would probably quit the uncongenial
scene without due warning, and recommence their misdeeds in
the hills and vales of the Presidency — a very undesirable
arrangement for the present.

Leaving them to their fate, we entered the hospital for
natives in gaol, and found two or three dying opium-eaters, a
man who was shamming illness because he had to receive
twenty-five lashes with the cat-o'-nine-tails and did not like the
prospect, and one or two who were suffering from low fever.
Then to the cooking-house, and so out into the gardens once
more, having passed through one of the best-managed prison
establishments in the Empire.

CHAPTER IL

SOCIAL LIFE IN BOMBAY.

Early in the evening a few days afterwards I fonnd myself a
guest of one of the most influential Mohammedans in Bombay.
The invited were not numerous, for the notice was short ; but,
m place of great formality, there was hearty hospitality. It
was my first introduction to the private house of a Moham-
medan in India, and it was with no small amount of curiosity
that I regarded all about me.

The carriage-drive through the grounds was simply superb ;
such foliage as we have no conception of in Europe made a
thick green arch, down which the light streamed from the
windows of the mansion. Sounds of music, too, fell upon the
ear ; and at the far end of the avenue, close to the door, stood
a crowd of servitors gaily dressed, holding lamps in their
hands, and receiving the guests with low salaams.

Once arrived in the reception-hall, the spectacle was even
more novel. All round the apartment were velvet couches,
with comfortable pillows, on which guests were comfortably
reclining. Servants were moving swiftly about, handing iced
water, sherbets, cheroots, and hookahs : at one end of the
apartment was a mellow-toned, mechanical organ, which played
English airs very prettily and very softly, while through a
doorway, partially covered with a curtain, we could see into the
interior of another saloon, and there descry a party of singing
girls Mid instrumentalists. Just then our host, followed by the
males of his household, entered the reception-hall, and gave to
everybody a welcome ; then, taking one of our party by the
hand, he led him through the curtain, and so into the inner
room of which we had just had a glimpse, while the rest were

20 WITH TBE PtilKCE tK INDIA.

led in like manner bj the members of his family. In this
apartment, we now found, two girls were seated on cushions
placed on the floor, accompanied by four male musicians, one of
whom played a small description of kettledrum attached to his
waistbai^d, two having instruments somewhat similar to a
hurdy-gurdy in their hands, while the fouii;h had a tambourine
I do not trouble you with the native names of these instru-
ments, as the' mere concurrence of letters would convey no idea
to the mind.

So soon as everybody was seated, some on couches and some
on cushions, a signal was given by the host, the girls and
musicians stood up, and at once began. I had been previously
told that these were two of the best singing girls in Bombay,
and that, in fact, they sang almost as well as the best male
singers, which it appeared was a tremendous compliment to
pay them. Imagine my astonishment, then, when I found that
in singing they absolutely closed the nose from all participation
in the sound, thus giving to the music what we very erroneously
call a "nasal " sound of the most extraordinary description. Yet
when the ear once became accustomed to the strange thumping
of the drum, the harsh noises drawn by the bows of the players
from the hurdy-gurdies, the shaking of the tambourine, and the
jingling of little bells which the girls wore on their ankles and
wrists, it was, after all, by no means an unpleasant sound.
Indeed, the song was plaintive, pitched in a minor key, and
often sung very softly ; the instruments, albeit that they were
apparently somewhat rudely constructed, maintaining all the
while a weird, moving sound, which harmonised with the sing-
ing and sustained the voices. Every now and then the girls,
who were very richly dressed in scarlet and gold, whose heads
were covered with gauze of gold thread, and whose long dresses
were of plaid, also heavily trimmed with golden lace, would dance
slowly, continuing their singing meanwhile. Then one would
leave off, and the other would begin a slow movement, which,

SOCIAL LIFE IN BOMBAY. 21

thongii very graceful, doubtless was somewhat monotonous.
Occasionally one of the men behind — a very accomplished singer,
I belieye, but certainly the owner of one of the most hideous
faces I had ever seen — would catch up the refrain, and shout
out, in the same nasal tone, a verse or two of the song, where-
upon the girls would both shuffle about a little — ^I can scarcely
call their movements dancing — and the man with the drum
would thump away with increased energy.

This, then, was the terrible nautch dance of which we had
heard so much in England. But perhaps the reader will say
that the tongs were objectionable. To this I can reply that the
most uproarious and most mirthful one that we heard that
evening was the Persian song, ** Tazah ba tazah, nu ba nu *'
(Fresh and fresh, new and new), a pleasant chant, in which the
hearer is recommended to apply the principles of fresh and new
to all he does, whether in drinking wine, making friends, or
making love. Bather did the singing incline one to melancholia,
particularly when the possessor of the objectionable countenance
shouted out, and the drum was beaten more violently than
usual. Still, there was no doubt that the Mohammedans — staid
old gentlemen, smoking their pipes and cheroots, and occasion-
ally sipping coffee or iced water— enjoyed it thoroughly, and
that the entertainment was looked upon as exceptionally lively,
and, indeed, as almost a gala performance. And when, now
and then, the girls lifted up the ends of their veils, and disclosed
fully to view their by no means handsome faces, this digression
from ordinary usage was evidently regarded as a mark of great
complacency, and was appreciated-^uscordingly.

At length we intimated our desire to depart ; whereupon our
host, after some little remonstrance at our inconsiderate haste
— ^we had only listened to the monotonous dirge for two hours
— made a sign to the bearer of atter and pan ; whereupon two
men came up, one carrying a basket of flowers in his hand and
the other a tray of betel-nuts and pan-leaves, and in a few

22 WITH THB PBINOE IN INDIA.

moments we were sitting with garlands of richly-perfumed
blossoms around our necks, and huge bouquets in our hands ;
while the host sprinkled us with scent, presented us with two
bottles of otto of roses apiece, a leaf of pan and betel-nut, and
the customary spoonful of scented liquid called attar. Then,
with many bows^ we were led to the door, and so dismissed.

Next morning, at a very early hour, I started, in company
with Mr. Arthur Crawford, several years the Municipal Com-
missioner of Bombay, and now political agent, collector, and
magistrate with the Hubshee, to look at the Grand Bombay
Markets, which were erected by him, and are still called by his
name. To see them in their full swing it was necessary to go
there betimes ; for, as in Covent Garden the produce is received
at a very early hour, so here, as well as there, it is sold quickly,
and the dealers disappear. A somewhat lengthy drive brought
us to the outside of the building, a large and stately edifice,
covering a wide expanse of ground, and boasting a verdant
quadrangle and a fountain such as we have not anywhere in
England. On the outside was the name of Arthur Crawford,
" writ large ;" and no sooner did the good people of the market
descry their benefactor, than, with great show of respect and
even affection, they made a path for him through the hundreds
of buyers who were already at the stalls. I have called Mr.
Crawford a benefactor, not because he spent his own money,
but because in six or seven years he disbursed more than three
millions sterling of the public funds in sanitary and public
works, and because, as a result, Bombay possesses a finer
market than London, is cleaner than any Eastern ciiy I have
yet seen, has its abattoirs far from inhabited places, and is one
of the best administered under our rule in the East.

Would that I could present these " bazaars *' to your eyes as
they appeared a few mornings since ! A magnificent, double,
iron roof, covering fifty-six thousand square feet of space,
supported on tastefidly-designed, iron columns, and pleasantly

SOCIAL LIFE IIT BOMBAY. 23

decorated j beneath it hundreds of stalls, displaying everything
edible that Bombay can boast for sale. Four thorooghfares
were apportioned to the sale of fruit alone ; uid as we passed
between these lines of admirably-arranged stalls, we found
Mussidman and Hindoo salesmen squatting upon cushions in
the centre of oranges, plantains, pummelos, melons, nectarines,
guavas, and apples. I never saw half such a supply of rich,
juicy fruit heaped together before. Piles of rosy pomegranates,
luscious apples, shaddocks, peaches, and pistachio nuts, all were
there. They were displayed in pyramids, in circles, in squares,
with rich, green leaves between them, so that it would be well
nigh impossible to pass on and buy nothing. And then, leaving
these, we came upon the flower market, with its jessamines,
verbenas, roses, and tropical blossoms of a hundred kinds.
Flowers had been precious lately in Bombay — doubly so because
of the demand consequent on the fites and their scarcity in the
Presidency itself at this time of the year — and round the women
and men who made the garlands stood a clamouring, heated
crowd. Yet, as we went along, bouquets of exquisite loveliness
were offered us, and were pressed upon our acceptance. The
air was laden with the delicious perfume of these Eastern flowers,
and the seven thousand square feet of blossoms presented a
sight to which our European eyes were wholly unused. But,
if these were delightful to the vision, the vegetables and spices
which covered thirty-five thousand square feet of stalls were more
practical. All kinds of " herbs for the use of man," all sorts of
pleasant accompaniments for meat or ingredients for soup, every
variety of tuber or- edible grass were here. These, also, were
stacked with marvellously good taste ; round them the natives
swarmed with baskets and cloths, while in charge of them were
merchants in most picturesque costuMe, who laboured hard to
be rid of their wares, and to quit the market. Then there were
stalls for the sale of tobacco, for the vending of spices, for the
serving of butter — on green leaves again — and the distribution

24 WITH TSB FMINCE IN INDIA.

of flour and bread. Bound the sides of the market were shops,
moreover, in which were retailed European goods and Chinese
produce, so that in this great hive of commerce all, save meat
and fish, could be procured, even to articles of clothing and
ornamentation. Indeed, had we been devotionally inclined, a
gentleman was ready to sell us for three-halfpence an offering of
incense to the gods, a present, and four kinds of paint where-
with to decorate our foreheads, and give ourselves a very
religious appearance.

Crossing the square in the centre of the market-place, we
now came upon the stalls in which beef is sold — ^the abomina-
tion of the Hindoo, but the delight of Englishman and Mussul-
man. And as to see a slaughtered ox is an offence to the
Hindoo, we found screens put up at the doorways, so that
passing religionists should not be troubled by the sight of a
piece of beef. Only Mussulmans kept the stalls in this market,
and they were surrounded only by Mussulmans or Europeans,
while over every stall was the name of its owner in English
and Hindustani characters. So, too, mainly in the market
where mutton is sold, there were nearly all followers of the
Prophet, it being a tenet of Brahminism that the destruction
of life is a sin.

But, if the inspection of the market was instructive as show-
ing what individual effort and energy coidd realize, the sights
which followed were not less amusing. I have said the day
was yet young when we started on our tour ; those who know
India will be aware that this was just the time for visiting a
Hindoo temple. Thus it was that on our turning through a
somewhat narrow doorway we found ourselves in a huge court-
yard, crowded with people. On thb immediate right was a
tree, under the shade of which sat a number of " holy men."
With the Hindoos holiness and dirtiness are almost synony-
mous, and certainly these were the worst-washed men J ever
8ft w. With the contents of a great pot pf ashes they had by-

80CUL LIFE IN BOMBAY. 25

smeared not only their countenances, but the whole of their
bodies ; with big pieces of rope they had tied their already mat-
ted hair into knots, and thus heightened their natural ugliness.
They had used red and yellow paint wherever those pigments
would serve to render them less attractive in appearance, and
they had squatted down in a puddle of very holy mud, and
were just then eating the offerings of the faithful. Yet they
were apparently greatly revered and beloved. There was a
tender-hearted, old gentleman, with a great basket of sweet-
meats and cakes, giving them all a good breakfast when we
entered. The copper cans which lay about on the ground near
the puddle were full of annas and pice ; they even had a good
supply of pan and betel-nut ; and, as though holiness with con-
tentment were great gain, they were as stout as they were godly.
I gave the most sacred among them two annas, whereupon he
rolled a leaf of pan and offered it to me, and, when I declined
the tempting morsel, placed it in his own mouth, tinkled a little
bell, put his hands to his face and uttered a prayerful groan,
and then sat down in the mud once more and looked happy.
I should say, at a rough guess, that the holiness on that man
was a quarter of «an inch thick.

I have mentioned the tinkling of a bell j there were a good
many bells tinkling just then; for on the side of the entrance
opposite that in which the holy men sat was the Temple of
Mombadevi. In front of the temple doors were a large num-
ber of pigeons — some hundreds I should suppose — as fat, as
well cared for, and quite as tame as the pigeons of the Piazza
di San Marco in Venice, and as sacred as the gentlemen in the
mud puddle ; also five or six sacred buffaloes, a dozen sacred
goats, two very sacred but apparently very mischievous
monkeys, and a saci«d donkey. On the steps of the temple
the people congregated, going in, first to one shrine and pray-
ing, and then to another. When they had prayed satisfac-
torily and given an offenng to a deity, they rang a bell which

2

26 WITH THE PMINCB IN INDIA.

hung suspended in front ol the shrine, and went away quite

I noticed two things of interest, the first being that at one
shrine they were worshipping a picture — without at all know-
ing what it represented — of the Madonna and Child ; the second
that some of the shrines were more fashionable than others.
There waa a lovely idol, with a head like an ourang-outang,
ears nearly a yard long, four arms, eight legs, and a couple of
mouths, which was quite deserted, and only got two bundles
of pan and a banana during the morning ; while a rival, who
looked like a tipsy lion, with a moustache resembling Victor
Emmanuers, slightly turned up at the ends, a long Dundreary
pair of whiskers gracefully curled, six eyes placed in good and
useful positions, three tails, and only two legs, was " making a
mint of money." The fates were unkind and unjust. There
were plenty of bells in front of the ourang-outang-like god, yet
nobody rang them ; a very holy man sat at the shrine, yet no-
body went there. There was even a bench on which the faith-
ful could rest while they prepared their offerings, yet nobody
sat on it; while the lion that possessed the moustache and
whiskers received the fat of the land, was accosted by devo-
tional ladies and gentlemen every minute, and had enough
offerings in front of him to warrant the belief that the priest
who attended to his shrine must live happily the day through,
and altogether enjoy what the Americans call " a very good
time of it."

This was not all, however, that this religious spot afforded.
Past the tree, and still in front of the temple, was a huge tank,
three hundred yards square, or thereabouts, and in it hundreds
of Hindoo women were bathing in honour of their religion.
There they were, painting and washing, washing and painting,
fulfilling a religious duty and performing a very sanitary act
at the same time. A profane person might have perchance
wished that the holy men under the tree might have been

SOCIAL LIFE IN BOMBAY. 27

pitched into the water too. But that would haye probably
shocked those holy men's nerves, and so rendered them less
good and admirable than now. Mr. Crawford said that he
should like to poll down the wretched shanties which sur*
round the tank, and make in their stead a fine public garden.
But at present this will not be done, and Mombadeyi Tank
must be let alone.

Needless is it to describe two other temples that we visited ;
but a word should not be omitted respecting a religious institu-
tion througH which we passed. I have mentioned that a large
number of Hindoos believe in the sanctity of life of every kind,
and it was to visit an establishment belonging to this sect that
we now eni^red a gateway not far from the Mombadevi Temple.
A curious sight at once presented itself. Hundreds of cows
and buffaloes were enclosed within one set of rails, hundreds of
goats within another. All kinds of animals had pens appointed
them and people to tend them. We have in London a Home
for Dogs, about which a good deal the reverse of complimentary
has at different times been written, and not without cause.
Stray dogs, unruly dogs, sick dogs, are all received, yet some-
how or other they disappear, are sold, strangled, or poisoned in
this " Home " of theirs. Here, however, is a real home for the
maimed, the blind, the starving, and the old. When a Hindoo
has a horse which he finds too ill or too old for work, it is sent
here, and thence to pastures in the country ; cows that will
give milk no longer, goats that are useless, dogs that are tooth-
less, and even monkeys that are too old to chatter or to climb,
are placed here, too, and all carefully tended till they die.
So sacred is the charge that voluntarily do Hindoos support it
by a self-imposed tax; so good is it considered to feed these
poor animals that carts of hay are continually coming in for
their sustenance, and pious old men attend and distribute the
provender. When we were in the place, cows that had re-
covered from their illness were eatiug the sweet hay which lay

28 I^ITH THE PBINCE IN INDIA.

near them in profusion, with the greatest satisfaction ; the goats
that were pronounced well were feasting and gambolling ; sick
dogs had savoury messes, dogs that were not sick were equally
well fed, and the monkeys were evidently as happy as their
cramps and cranks would allow. ** I doctor, sar," said a dusky
gentleman with a walking-cane, who came up to ns while we
were looking at his horses ; " and I keep loving animals very
much." " Keep loving them as much as you can," was the re-
ply of my companion, " and then you'll go straight to heaven
some day." " Yes, sar," said the doctor, and forthwith evinced
his "love" for animals by stroking a huge buffalo that stood
close by, and giving it a great handful of grass.''

CHAPTER m.

BECEPTIONS OF BAJAH8.

^^ Cliaii^s for the Guicowar and the Maharajah I Make way
^ere, please 1" An official, a very courteous, but very energetic
one, Mr. Lee Warmer, Under-Secretary of the Presidency of
Bombay, dressed in full Court uniform, is directing the move-
ments of a slender Hindoo who, besides bearing a huge, red
turban, in shape and size very like a lady's sunshade, is struggl-
ing along under two cane-seated chairs on the outskirts of a
most brilliant throng. The locale is the Boree Bunder railway
station; the occasion. Lord Northbrook's arrival in Bombay.
To meet the Viceroy are gathered together in that little ter-
minus all the rank and power of North-Westem India. Should
i give you a list of their names and titles you would have a
lengthy collection of extraordinary words. I could tell from
ftn official list, which has been published, the exact Dumber of
followers each one has, and the number of '' guns " to which
each is entitled. But for many reasons I forbear. Mingled
with the chieftains and sirdars are a large number of officers
vrom the fleet, ail in full-dress uniform, ' military officers in
scarlet, clergymen in their robes, and Political Residents in
Court dress.

A picturesque crowd is that which is thus shut in from iho
front of the platform by a cord of blue, fit subject for the
minutest of painters ; yet, so far as I can see, no painter is pre-
sent. I am alone on the red carpet^on which the Viceroy is
presently to stand when he reaches Bombay, without even so
much as a railway official to keep me in countenance. Bail-
way policemen are here, it is true, but they are on the lines.

30 WITE THE PBINCE IN INDIA.

Long lines of soldiery hold the waj to the station^ but they are
in the road. Other spectators are looking on beside the fashion-
able crowd behind the rope, but they are on the tops of goods ;
others on the walls round about, chattering, gesticulating,
fighting, wondering — ^these natives of India waiting for their
ruler.

It was for no idle purpose that the chairs were brought for
which Mr. Lee Warner begged a way. In the centre of yon
brilliant gathering stand two little boys, each dressed in black
velvet, grandly ornamented with diamonds, and attended by a
large number of followers. In point of age they seem to be
respectively thirteen and nine years old. They are clearly
princes in rank, and,' indeed, the greatest here. The taller one
is as dignified a little ruler as was ever seen. He holds his
head erect, and stands in front of his followers and by the side
of Mr. Dalyel, the Commissioner, with all the conscious pride
that the greatest potentate in the world could command. And
not altogether without reason, for he is the Maharajah of
Mysore, has a wide tract of country, and a huge revenue, and
succeeds to a stately home and princely inheritance. In facial
expression he is almost the very image of Madame Adelina
Patti — ^handsome, sharp-eyed, and graceful. Bound his neck
are strings of pearls and diamonds of immense value ; his wrists
are encircled by bracelets, even his ankles are enveloped in
jewels, and from the little turban which has been placed in
coquettish style upon his head there shoots an aigrette of preci-
ous stones such as Nasr-Ed-Din of Persia would gaze at with
amazement. His Eoyal brother is the smallest specimen of
sovereignty I have ever seen, yet he is even more important in
vice-regal eyes, for this is the Guicowar of Baroda. If he of
Mysore is radiant with jewels, this royal seedling from Baroda
is more magnificent stilL On his neck and breast, his turban,
and his very shoes, everywhere glisten diamonds, emertdds^
rubies, and pearls. He is well aware of his own importance ;

BECEFTIONS OF BAJAH8. 31

and, tHongli not so old as his Mysore rival, acts liis part well.
And when the chairs are brought and the two sit down, each
eyes the other with great cariosity — ^perhaps also mentally
placing a valuation on the other's jewels — ^and then each turns
his head away with an expression very like contempt

At length the Kajahs, chieftains and sirdars are all in the
station, and have taken their places; and the Governor of Bom-
bay steps on to the red carpet, followed by his son, who is his
private secretary. The naval officers are also asked to step on
to the carpet, and some of the principal authorities of the town
are likewise invited to this place of distinction. There they all
stand for a few minutes, during which the Viceroy's ti-ain is
signalled from Byculla. That there should be late arrivals was,
of course, to be expected. And I grieve to say that one of
them was a judge — not a judge such as we see in England, clad
in scarlet, and wearing a long wig, or even dressed in ermine,
with a short wig ; but a funny, old gentleman of olive colour,
with a red turban on his head, and his nether limbs encased in
a starched, white petticoat. Very stout, very brown, this funny,
old man shuffles into the roped space, and, clasping his hands
together, awaits the Governor-General, Then a ridiculous, old
person, with a Mahratta turban, puts in an. appearance. One
wonders why such grotesque, old people should be allowed to
spoil the general harmony of the scene. Yet they turn up
everywhere — at durbars, at ceremonies of all kinds — just when
one is most admiring everything, and thinking how much more
picturesque it all is than any sight in England ; and with their
ugly faces and uglier, head-dresses, their extraordinary petti-
coats, yellow stockings, and bootless feet, lower the scene from
the sublime to the ridiculous, and make the beholder almost
mad with disappointment. These tuibans of theirs are as large
as an ordinary umbrella, and contain eighty yards of thin
riband ; they are generally pink or scarlet, have a little emi-
nence in the centre, which looks like an intoxicated cone, and

32 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

then bulge out over the ear and shoulder in the^ strangest pos-
sible style. Why does not somebody seize this latest arrival at
the station and bundle him out ! He spoils the whole scene,
and troubles the spectator exceedingly.

By this time, however, the viceregal engine is in sight, and
there is no time to turn anybody out. Besides which it is an
engine to regard with awe and admiration. I remember once
at Sheffield seeing an official with a white wand, who had de-
puted himself to receive the Prince of Wales, make a profound
obeisance to a goods engine. Onlookers laughed, but excused
the blunder on the ground that the gentleman meant well.
Here, however, is an engine he might bow to without being
laughed at. It is immense in size ; it is brilliantly painted ;
round the funnel are garlands of flowers, and on its front, in
golden colours, is the royal coat of arms. Nobody does bow to
it; but that is because the Viceroy's carriage is just behind, and
his Excellency is stepping out, so that everybody is making a
bow to Lord Northbrook, and thinking nothing about the en-
gine at all. And as there is no one with a white wand here,
no officious person, no meddler or muddler, everything goes
easily and pleasantly. The Viceroy goes at once to the two
Princes, who have been favoured with the chairs, and shakes
hands with them. Then he grasps the hand of the Maharana
of Oodeypore, who is close by, and then that of the Bajah of
Kholapore, and so passes all down the station, while the band
outside plays " God save the Queen," and the troops present
armS: Carriages drive up and drive away, and in half an hour
the station platform, which just now contained so brilliant a
throng, is deserted.

And now let me describe another scene, more imposing and
more important, more interesting also, as being exactly similar
to one in which the Prince of Wales himself took part a few
days later on. It was late on the Tuesday night before the
Prince landed, when I received an invitation from the secretary

EECEPTI0N8 OF RAJAHS. 33

of the Viceroy, Captam Eyelyn Baring, to breakfast at Malabar
Point, the temporary residence of Lord Northbrook, on the fol-
lowing morning. There was, however, in the note even more than
this, for it contained a postscript with the information that his
Excellency would receive the principal chieftains at present in
Bombay in the audience room of Government House, at seven
A.M. Such a summons could not be lightly valued, and I
hastened to acknowledge the missive, and prepared to obey.

The daylight had not appeared when I found myself in a
gharry, driven by an ill-tempered Mohammedan — ill-tempered
because awakened early — towards the beautiful bay which fronts
Malabar Hill. Now and then a streak of sunshine would dart
across the sky and the sea, telling of the close proximity of day.
The surf was breaking on the land with a sullen roar, but not
a breath of air could be felt on that sultry morning. On went
the grumbling driver, until at length long lines of troops were
descried, native infantry with arms at the " present," native
cavalry with lances held aloft, pennons dangling in the air, and
English constables, clad in white clothes, all di'awn up in regu-
lar order, waiting the arrival of the great personages who were
presently to come to visit his Excellency. A few moments
more, when the sun was up, scorching everybody, I was hasten-
ing up the steps of Malabar House. On seeing a place for a
first time, the eye naturally wanders all round. Let us glance
at the building before us. On the broad staircase on either side
are soldiers of the Viceroy's body-guard. Some bear halberds,
some lances, some swords j they are broad, strong men — ^few of
them less than six feet in height, and look magnificent in theii*
small, striped turbans, their long, scarlet coats, and golden
waistbands. Better soldiers than these cannot be found. In
the mutiny Lord Canning held to his native body-guard, and
refused the guard of English troops ; and Lord Northbrook
still refuses to believe that anything can be safer than the watch
that is kept by his stalwart Punjabees. On aniving at the top

34 WITH THB FEINCB IN INDIA.

we are at onoe on a broad, covered yerandah, extending all
round the house— a delightful retreat from the rays of the sun,
and just now full of a welcome breeze which has suddenly
sprung up, and is coming in from the sea* Here, again, are
soldiers of the body-guard, marking the entrance to the State
room which opens on to the verandaL A few steps bring us
into the very centre of the viceregal Court, all ready as that
Court is for the reception of the Bajah of Kholapore, who is
momentarily expected.

The scene is extremely impressive. A lofby audience-chamber,
with two marble pillars at one end, cutting off, say, a fourth of
the space, and thus forming a kind of recess for the throne ;
this throne, just now occupied by Lord Northbrook, is con-
structed of silver and gold, having a golden lion for one arm and
a golden bull for another, bearing a purple and golden crown
about a foot above the back, and altogether forming one of the
finest State chairs ever designed. This also is placed upon a
dids one step high. On the right hand is a long row of empty
arm-chairs, running down half the length of the room ; on the
left an equal number of chairs, not empty, but filled by officers
in brilliant uniforms — Captain Baring, mentioned before; Colo-
nel Earle, the admirable Military Secretary; Mr. C. TJ. Aitchi-
son, the Foreign Secretary; Major Henderson, acting as Assist-
ant Foreign Secretary — ^the Viceroy's personal staff. Behind
the throne are gathered an array of servants picturesquely
attired in bright, red uniforms and gold and white turbans, hold-
ing up scarlet fans, golden umbrellas, and other insignia of
Eastern royalty. Bound the room at regular intervals are more
of these attendants, bearing maces with crowns, and elephants'
heads in silver, and halberds. But by far the most important
item in the whole room, next to the Yiceioy himself, has as yet
been unnoticed, although upon it depends more than would be
conveyed in the strongest letter of approval or dissatisfaction
that was ever penned at Cdcutta and sent to a native prince.

EECEPTI0N8 OF BAJAH8. 35

At first glance there is nothing very extraordinary about
it either. It is a long, oval piece of crimson with a golden
border, the Eoyal arms being in the centre. Yet how fer the
Viceroy may advance on that carpet when about to meet a
guest is matter for serious deliberation and special notice in
the " Gazette." Beyond the line " Dieu et mon droit," in pre-
sence of a Nawab, and his Excellency would raise a thousand
jealousies, make said Nawab insane with delight, and lay the
foundation for a selies of troubles, the end of which could not be
predicted. Stop but six inches from the edge when a Guicowar
or a Maharana enters, and a rebuke would be conveyed and re-
ceived of profound importance and meaning. Even the num-
ber of steps the Viceroy may take on that wonderful rug-work
are defined by a decree in council, and he must no more take
five when three are ordered than the officer in charge of jonder
artillery battery just preparing to fire may let oflf twenty-one
guns in honour of the Chief of Jamkhundee. He may let ofi'
two less than that number in honour of the Eajah of Kholapore,
and, indeed, is now preparing to do so, for his Highness,
attended by nine of his principal sirdars and an escort of cavalry,
is just now being driven at a great rate along the pathway to
the house. The troops are presenting arms, and the band is
playing. Bang go the guns, with a deafening sound. Two
officers run down the steps, and the ruler of Kholapore is
assisted from his carriage and conducted to the audience-cham-
ber without delay. As the sound of approaching footsteps is
heard, the Viceroy rises and stands upon the daSa, till the faces
of his guests are seen in the ante-room. The " Gazette " order
for the day states that Lord Northbrook will receive his High-
ness ^' at the edge of the carpet, and conduct him to a seat on
his right hand," and no one knows all this better than the Lilli-
putian Jiighness now enteiing the doorway. Perhaps it is the
experienced government of Mr. Aitchison, peihaps the jealous
eye of the boy-Piince, which regulates the steps of the Khol.'»«pore

36 W'lTH THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

party. Anyhow, the youth only arrives at the outer edge of
the carpet at the precise moment when the Viceroy's toe touches
the inner edge, and the Viceroy's extended hand reaches into
uncarpeted space. With a rapid bow the little Rajah grasps
his Excellency's fingers, and is then led to the chair covered
jrith golden cloth — ^which stands next the dais on the right, and
is to be used for all princes who come — followed by the English
officer resident at his Court, and his sirdars, all of them portly
men, in singular costumes.

As soon as the Rajah is seated, we are at liberty to criticise
his dress. I think there are, if possible, more diamonds round
that little neck than on the previous day — ^larger 'pearls for
bracelets and finer rubies as earrings. The diamond aigrette in
the gold turban is, moreover, supplemented by another tuft of
brilliants, and the finger-rings on the Royal hands are more
costly than before. The pale-faced child can scarcely weigh
five stone — diamonds, clothes, sword, and all ; yet there he sits,
coolly chatting with the Viceroy, and now and then sending a
glance of ineffable contempt round th© room, as though it was
not a bit more ornate than it should be, considering that so im-
portant a personage as himself is in it as a guest. So a few
minutes pass, and then Major Henderson rises, and with a bow,
introduces the sirdars to the Viceroy. One by one these portlj
chieftains rise, and, advancing to the throne, make a low
obeisance, and hold out a bag of gold to his Excellency. In
times gone by the gold would scarcely have been held out with
safety. An emperor of Delhi in the olden time would probably
have not only taken that, but demanded a good deal more. In
these enlightened times the Viceroy only touches the money, the
sirdar shuffles back into his place, and, as coin-canying is not
pleasant to an indolent person, and one bag of money, which is
only to be touched and not used, is as good as twenty, h5 simplj
transfers the bag from his own, yellow handkerchief to the red
one of his successor in homage, and so the money goes round.

RECEPTIONS OF RAJAHS. 37

'^ Attar and pan will then be given to the Eajah by the Vice-
roy himself/' runs the circular. Attar and pan are given in
consequence. Two bearers, clad in scarlet, enter the room from
a side door, the one carrying a glass bottle on a silver stand,
the other some gold and silver leaved packets on a salver.
Slowly advancing in Indian file, they stand at length before the
Viceroy, who rises, and, taking from the bottle a silver stick,
conveys a drop of attar of roses to the extended handkerchief
of his chief guest. Next a gilded packet — ^it contains the leaf
called pan, some betel-nut, a clove, and a little quicklime, all
admirably adapted for chewing, says the Hindoo — is transferred
by Lord Northbrook to the right hand of the Kajah, who, after
making a profound bow, hands both handkerchief and packet
to an attendant. The sirdars are now treated in similar
fashion by the Foreign Secretary and his assistant, according to
heir rank, and then, at a signal, all rise, the Viceroy extends
his hand to the Kajah, and, leading him to the very edge of the
carpet, once more shakes hands with him, and bids him adieu.

But a greater than he is close at hand. In a few minutes
fresh artillery salutes announce the new comer, and the guard
of honour has scarcely stacked its arms, before it has to present
them once more. And the promptitude is not without reason.
Chamrajendra Hadiar Bahadoor, Maharajah of Mysore, is
driving up the pathway — a prince entitled to a salute of twenty-
one guns, to be met on the edge of the carpet, to receive attar
and pan from his Excellency's own hands, and to be treated
with profoundest respect as one of the principal rulers of India.
Strange to say, out of all the armed retainers who accompany
his carriages only one ascends the broad staircase with the
Prince and his guardian (Colonel Malleson), and this, a fat, old
gentleman in a starched petticoat and stockings, wearing a
curious turban of yellow calico, and carrying a big bag of money
as " nuzzar " for the Viceroy. His Highness is dressed just as
ho w^ on the previous day — in black velvet, with tlie samo

38 f^ITB TEE PRINCE IN INDIA.

turban and aigrette of brilliants^ the same splendid necklace and
the same rings ; on his left arm^ however, a sparkling armlet of
diamonds, and on his ankles more pearls than before. He is a
stately, little fellow, this Maharajah, only thirteen years old
though he may be ; and he stops at the edge of the carpet till
the Viceroy reaches it with all the dignity of a great sovereign,
takes his place in the chair of honour as though it were the
throne of Southern India, and converses with the Viceroy with
all the affability and ease of an accomplished man of the world.
His reception is of the same kind as that of his predecessor ; he
takes the attar and pan, and is gone.

The next guest is the Maharana of Oodeypore. I do not
know how many books have been written to prove that this
gentleman is the greatest prince in India. He claims to rank
above the Guicowarof Baroda and Prince of Mysore, and to re-
ceive like them, a Royal salute instead of only a welcome of
nineteen guns. He is the head of the Eajpoots — the purest
race of Hindoos — ^a sacred person in his own right, and the
representative of the only dynasty that successfully withstood
the victorious emperors of Delhi and lesser warriors for eight
hundred years. For the rest, he is a stately, young man of
about twenty-three summers, somewhat badly marked by small-
pox, but, for all that, kingly in demeanour and not unpleasing
in countenance. He, too, is received at the edge of the carpet,
and led by the right hand to the place of honour by Lord
Northbrook. His followers, indeed, hold their heads as high
and stride along as proudly as though they were all kings in
their own right, instead of tributary princes. Their wonderful
costumes of bright green and gold, their white turbans, and
their jewels, as they follow their master — who wears nothing
but white linen, and boasts only two or three large diamonds —
are extremely picturesque ; and when they come forward one
after another, and are presented to Lord Northbrook, bowing
to the earth and kissing the tips of the fingers just touched by

BECEPTIONS OF RAJAHS. 39

his lordship, their appearance is not less effectiva They
thought, it appears, that the Viceroy would rise to receive
them ; but England's power has grown while theirs has de-
creased, and since they last saw the Queen's representative,
times have changed, and they now only obtain a gracious nod,
and have to be satisfied.

The same ceremony which dismissed the brethren of Khola-
pore sends them away, and the Bana of Oodeypore is succeeded
by the Kao of Kutch. This good gentleman, despite his
brigand-like appearance, is a very estimable person, rules a
large State wisely, and generally steers clear of difficulties with
the Government. At first glance he gives one the impression
of a very lordly individual indeed — one, in fact, who might be
met at the edge of any carpet in the world, with great pro-
priety. But not so. The line in the middle which says "Dieu
et mon droit," might so far as he is concerned, read * Kutch et
mon droit,' for it is just there that the Viceroy awaits him, and
not an inch nearer. Moreover, the guns outside are only firing
seventeen rounds, and one almost imagines that the band left
off playing a little sooner than before. But never mind, Bao
Pragmul,* you are bravely attired in your dark green velvet
habit and light blue riband over the heart ; your red and gold
turban is exceedingly becoming, and yo\ir step is very credit*
able. It is a pity that you are only allowed five attendants,
however, for more of such dresses might easily be seen with an
untired eye. The hundred and one gold mohura which the Bao
presents being touched, and a short conversation over, his
Highness is led down to the centre of the carpet once more, and
thence to the doorway, by the Foreign Secretary.

He is not long gone before an unusual stir is noticeable.
Arms ! Present arms ! Make way for the Guicowar's horse-
men and carriages; for, to the sound of a Boyal salute and a
Boyal march, the protegS of Sir Bichard Meade is coming along

* He died soon after the Prince left Bombay.

40 WITH THE PmNCB IN INDIA,

the pathway. Men of the body-guard stiffen in position, the
viceregal suite is in its place, and the Viceroy is already past
the middle of the carpet ere the little Prince is through the
doorway. Led by his guardian, he steps cautiously forward, so
as to time his footsteps to those of the Govemor-Greneral ; and
just as his Excellency's feet are at the edge, this Koyal waif and-
stray, this little King by accident, stretches out his hand, and
with complete calmness thus salutes the Viceroy. His stride
along the carpet to his chair of state is as remarkable as his
dress, which is indeed striking. More j ewels th an ever glittered
round that little neck. N^early four hundred thousand pounds'
worth of diamonds, pearls, rubies, and emeralds adorn th«
person of this little boy ; such an aigrette was never seen in any
other turban. Some English ladies whom I know, and who
take delight in jewellery and find pleasure in brilliants, would
have been beside themselves with joy at such a spectacle ; even
amongst men accustomed to such sights there was a perceptible
murmur of applause. I need scarcely say that twenty-one guns
saluted this important item of sovereign humanity, that attar
and pan were handed him by the Viceroy with all respect, and
then at length he was led to the very edge of the carpet, before
being handed over to the Foreign Secretary, and taken to his
carriage.

Next came Sir Salar Jung, the guardian of the Nizam of
Hyderabad. So remarkable is this man that, although he is
only an " Excellency " and by no means Koyal, he is honoured
with twenty-one guns, and received in the centre of the carpet.
His business here is to represent the Nizam, who is actually
too ill to come. The resident English physician has declared
against the young Prince's journey, a prolonged illness supports
the plea, and Sir Salar Jung is here to render homage for him.
Take a good look at his Excellency as he sits by the side of the
Viceroy, clad in simple white with only a light blue riband
across his breast. In aopearance, closely cut hair and short

RECEPTIONS OF RAJAHS, 41

moustadie, he is very like Prince Bismarck ; lie has the broad
forehead and quick eye of the German Chancellor, and is ^par-
entlj as frank as ha Men who know him well speak in ad-
miring tones pf his grasp of European politics ; his administra^
tion of the wild population of Hyderabad shows his force of
character and strength of will. If Madava Rao is the first of
Hindoos^ Salar Jung is the premier Mohammedan^ and as such
is esteemed by the Government.

But, if the reception given to the chiefs by the Viceroy was
grand, their reception of him on his paying return visits to
them was no less striking. I do not refer to the " no-gun men."
They were asked to go to the Government Secretariat, and re-
ceive the Viceroy there. But I allude to the Guicowar, the
Maharajah of Mysore, the Mahai*ana of Oodeypore, and such
dignitaries. It was at the house of the last-named that, by the
courteous request of the Viceroy, I found mjrself an invited
guest a few minutes before his Excellency arrived. It was
while looking round on this extraordinary assemblage of chiefs
that Colonel Herbert — ^the Political Resident at Oodeypore —
touched me on the arm and introduced me to his Highness, who
was pleased to converse in very good English, till the arrival of
the Viceroy was announced at the gate. Then the chiefs stood
round Uie hall, the Maharana advanced to the Viceroy's car-
riage, and, taking his Excellency by the right hand, led him to
a couch at the head of the saloon, and gave him the seat of
honour as to a superior monarch. Of course the English
officers were on the right hand of the Viceroy, this time they
being the guests. Colonel Herbert now came forward and in-
troduced each chief present by name to the Governor-General,
each one advancing as his name was called out, and offering a
"nuzzar," or present, which the Viceroy formally touched.
Next appeared two attendants with wreaths of flowers for the
neck of the Viceroy and his suite, bouquets, moreover, of red
flowci's for their hands, attiii for their handkerchiefs, and pan
3

42 WJTE THE FEINCE IN INDIA.

for thmr mouths in case it should please them to eat it. And
all these being presented in due form, the whole party rose^ the
Yiceroj was again led to the door by the Maharana, the band
played, the troops presented arms, and the visit was over. This
was exactly similar to all the other return visits of the Viceroy ;
and I am particular in thus detailing the incidents, as they
were the same as those which befel the Prince afterwards.

Having on the following Saturday received an invitation to
visit the Maharajah of Mysore^ an hour's drive brought me to
Altamont, the house which has been engaged for his Highness
during his stay in Bombay, and in a very few minutes I was
in company with the highly esteemed Colonel Malleson, politi-
cal agent in Mysore, and author of a valuable work on the
Native States of India, and Mr. Dalyel, administrator of the
kingdom, waiting the coming of the Maharajah in the recep-
tion saloon. A more happily chosen spot for the court of a
powerful prince could scarcely have been selected. At one
end of the hall, which would comfortably seat some hundreds
of people, was a magnificently carved screen ; in front of this
a yellow satin and gilded couch was placed; on either hand
were chairs of state, running down half the length of the room,
placed in such a manner as to accommodate all the chiefs of
Mysore when in council assembled. It was here that the
Viceroy was i*oceived, and it was here that the Prince of
Wales would make his call early the next week.

On a table to the right of the couch were ranged in tempting
an*ay the presents which the Maharajah was about to make to
the Prince. A magnificently embossed cup of gold, called
" Alexandra," and made many years ago in honour of the mar-
riage of the Prince and Princess of Wales, stands in the centre.
The history of this cup is somewhat singular. A short time
ago, before the Prince's visit was talked of, the Maharajah de-
termined on giving it as a prize to the best race-horse in his
dominions, in honour of the Princess of Wales. The race was

RECEPTIONS OF RAJAHS. 43

nm amid great excitement, but, curiously enougb, his High-
ness' own horse won the cup, and so here it was, ready to be
given to the Prince for the Princess herself. It is engravetl
with her p^me, is beautifully worked, as such work can be done
only in Mysore, and has for handle to the lid a massive, gold
elephant. The value is about £3,000.

Bound this cup is ranged a gold service for attar and pan.
There are a gold receptacle for attar of roses, a golden casket
for the pan and betel-nut, a golden stand for incense, a rose-
spouted cup of gold, for scented water, and other beautifully
designed cups and salvers for the completion of the set. But
the most beautiful present of all is a belt of gold which is placed
on a little table by itself. For long years it has been in the
treasury of Mysore, highly valued, much admired, and now it
sees light only to leave Mysore forever. In size it is too big
for any lady, being intended for a very stout king, but in point
of beauty it is fit for the most queenly waist in the world. All
over its front flash diamonds, emer£klds, rubies and pearls — in
fact, it contains every kind of precious stone found in Mysore,
and is on that account alone a most valuable and intei-esting
jewel. In the centre of the back it has a hinge, in front a
diamond clasp, and altogether it is one of the most resplendent
ornaments that could be designed. Its intrinsic cost was many
thousands of pounds, but as a work of art it is still more
valuable.

While looking at these a messenger announced the approach
of the Maharajah, and a moment afterwards his Highness came
into the saloon, and, holding out his hand, bid me welcome to
his house. He was glad, he said, to see Englishmen ; for he
hoped some day to go to England himself and learn all about
the great country from which they came. Then, turning round,
he introduced a bright-eyed, intelligent youth of nineteen or
thereabouts — who, his Highness said, was hereditary com-
mander-iu-chitif of the army in Mysore. With excellent accent

44 ^ITE THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

and admirable good taste, he spoke English perfectly^ and in
a very few minutes showed that he looked forward to no sine-
cure, although his army might never be large. He knew all
about the Franco-German war, was intimately acquainted with
Kussian movements, understood even the principle of summer
drills in England, and expressed a desire to see the troops of
all these nations himself '' You Europeans,'' he said, " are so
well disciplined that I could but learn much by travel, imd I
shall go to Europe on the very first opportunity/' As for the
Maharajah, he chatted pleasantly about the sights of Bombay
and its relative beauty when compared with his own capital.
He was just going to see the caves of Elephanta, and he in-
tended to learn all he could while in the Presideidcy. He dwelt
upon the pleasure of cricket, of which game he is very fond,
and the advantages of underhand twist bowling, which he finds
bothers the Mysorian cricketers exceedingly, and then upon
the pleasures of sport. Thus fifteen minutes or so passed
pleasantly, and concluded with a kindly invitation to visit him
at his capital and see his people. A more intelligent young
gentleman I have never seen ; and if such is the result of Eng-
lish training and instruction, the system promises well, and
Colonel Malleson and Mr. Dalyel have good reason to be proud
of their charge.

CHAPTEE IV,

THE ARRIVAL OF THE PRINCE.

On the 8th of November, 1875, "His Honour of High Title,
the Star of the Sky of Wealth and Fortune, the Great Star of
the Firmament of Glory and Prosperity, the Generous One of
the Age, the First One of the Time, the Essence of the Family
of Honour and Loftiness, the Prop of the Dynasty of Might
and Pomp, possessing the dignity and rank of Saturn, of ex-
alted honour, the Cream of the Princes of the Age, the Glory
of the Nobles of England, Albert Edward, Prince of Wales,"
landed in Bombay. That is the statement of a Persian writer
who was good enough to read me the beginning of his admir-
able article, and to give me an English translation. Of the
fact of the Prince's landing I was a faithful witness ; of the
titles which the Persian has conferred upon the Prince, I say
nothing. Yet surely, if banging of artillery and cheering can
impi-ess the mind with an idea of the grandeur of the Prince
who landed, the Persian may l>e pardoned for his selection of
compliments. ^

Never was a heartier or more loyal reception accorded to any-
one anywhere. For weeks past Bombay had been in a ferment.
In the excess of their loyalty the powers that be, actually
quarrelled. Sir Philip Wodehouse got to loggerheads with
Bear-Admiral Macdonald, the result of which was that the
Admiral requested his officers not to attend the Governor's
levee; then the Bear- Admiral, reading his instructions from
the Admiralty with great exactitude, informed the ancient
representative of British government in Bombay that his orders
would not allow of a salute being given to the Viceroy on the

46 WITH TEE PEINCE IN INDIA.

occasion of the Prince's landing. *^ No flag can be saluted in
presence of the Eoyal Standard/' wrote Admiral Macdonald ;
whei-eupon the Governor very nearly went into hysterics, and
the local newspapers wrote columns of rubbish. At length the
knotty point was settled; Admiral Macdonald telegraphed to
England for instructions, and received permission to salute the
Viceroy and the Prince as well ; the Governor received the in-
telligence with bewildered gi*atitude, and has remained in a
state of amazement ever since.

Then, of course, the decorations were matter for serious con-
sideration and endless disagreement. Had everybody's sug-
gestions been adopted, and each suggester set to work with
plenary powers, Bombay would have presented in a short time
a very singular spectacle indeed. But somehow or other the
authorities contrived to repress some and quicken others, so
that in the end the place looked fairy-like in ite beauty. Bom-
bay is less of an Indian and more of a Levantine city than any
other. Within its environs people from eveiy part of the
world find a home. There are seventy-two different sects of
^lohammedans alone. No one knows how many different
kinds of Hindoos there are. Chinamen are numerous, too.
There are representatives of every European country and
people who are able to judge, say, of Asia also. Every now
and then you come across a Nubian or Abyssinian. Egyptians
are here in scores ; Arabs stalk about in the bazaars ; and I
believe I espied a Kaffir in a shop near BycuUa. With such a
variety of nationalities there' would very naturally be a diver-
sity of colour, and hence the picturesque appearance of the
crowd which assembled to welcome or to gaze at the Piince of
Wales.

To most of the inhabitants the Royal visit was very agree-
able. The cabd livers quadrupled their fees ; the tradesmen in
the bazaars had the most delightful opportunity for fleecing
Rajahs — " young men from the country " — ^that ever presented

THE ARMVAL OF TEE PRINCE. 47

itself; and as for the Europeans, they were all placed on some
committee or other, saw their names figaring everywhere, and
their speeches reported with unwonted regularity. All this
being the case, no wonder Bombay turned out to witness the
Royal entry. Great preparations had been made. The gene-
alogy of the Prince had been carefully traced and copied into
the native papers. Poetry such as has been seldom read was
written and published^ All along the line of route — ^it is need-
less for me to attempt to give the names of the streets — masts
called, for want of a better name, Venetian, had been erected ;
iiags were flying there&om; festoons connected mast with
mast; coloured lamps, shortly to be lighted, were placed in
position ; and triumphal arches, more or less pretty, appeared
at every cross road. Then the people came out en masse, and
crowded every road, street, and lane» Let it be remembered
that in a city Uke Bombay this is less difficult than it would
be in London. Here the inhabitants, as a general rule, per-
form their toilettes by the side of the road. Gentlemen are
shaved while sitting on a kerbstone, ladies clean their teeth in
the centre of the thoroughfare, friends adjust each other's top-
knots on their doorsteps, and in the street ablutions go on
merrily. Witnessing the procession forms nearly the sum
total of what the natives did on that — ^to them — memorable
day.

Visitors to the Dockyard and to the Club windows were re-
quested to appear in full dress. But no dress of the white
population, " full" though it may^, comes up to the costumes
which the natives donned that morning. And when I drove
from Parell and saw the gaUy-painted houses, the brilliantly
green trees hung with coloured Chinese lanterns and long lines
of flags, the trophies of banners, the triumphal arches, and the
busy road, all teeming with natives attired in bright costumes,
I felt that the Prince could have never looked on such a scene
elsewhere. I cannot say so much for the mottoes which figured
over the gateways of the Eajahs and chieftains on the route.

48 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

PerLaps allowance shoald be made for the fact tLai almost
all the ingenuity that Bombay possessed had been exhausted
on the illumination designs for the Jiext night. To make the
place resplendent with light in honour of the Prince's birthday,
every possible design had been adopted. From every tree
hung lanterns ; over every gateway were archways of lamps ;
on. each lamp-post designs of crosses, stars, triangles, and
circles, glittered — for even in the daytime the glasses glittered
in the sun like diamonds — loops, made of bent twigs, support-
ing transparent cups full of oil, lined the roads, and great gas
jets, such as we sometimes see at home, completed the arrange-
ment. But if this was satisfactory — and I fancy that a drive
round the town the next evening reminded the Piince of Wales
of the fairy tales of his youth rather than of uiything else — the
mottoes were decidedly poor. You saw a fine archway with
letters in gilt and plenty of blue paint. You naturally ex-
pected something very appropriate to the visit, and set yourself
to decipher the printing, when you found that it runs "God
bless your Royal Mother,'* or, turning in another direction,
" Long lAye the Royal Family," or in another the single word
" Victoria." Here and there in front of a Parsee house was
some such remark as " Very glad to see the Prince of Wales,"
or on a Mohammedan bungalow the letters ** A. R j " but, for
the rest, " Welcome to India," or " Welcome to Bombay," oc-
cuiTed very frequently, and then the ingenuity in this branch
of display came to an end, with one exception — ^namely at the
Dockyaid gates, of which I vfUl speak presently.

It was quite early in the morning when the " Serapis " was
sighted from Malabar Point and introduced to Bombay by two
guns, and nine o'clock had scarcely struck ere she entered the
harbour. Instantly the yards of the men-of-war, which lay in
two long lines, were manned, and so deafening a salute poured
out from the ships and the battery on shore that for many
minutes' space the very windows rattled. To attempt to see

THJB ARmVAL OF THE PBINCB. 49

anything oi the "Serapis" at such a time was simply foolish,
for the smoke in a dense cloud hid not only the coast, the
islands, and the distant hills, but enveloped the ships so com*
pletely that for nearly a quarter of an hour no part of them
could be discerned. When the smoke had gone and the air was
clear once more, it was seen that the '' Serapis ** had taken op
a position dose by the " Osborne," which had arrived the night
before, and that she was not decorated with flags, as were all
the ships in the harbour, but simply displayed the Royal Stand-
ard from her masthead.

I have already mentioned the native part of the town ; I
will now describe what was going on in the Fort, which was
more particularly the English quarter, so far as shops, offices,
and public buildings are concerned. Very soon after seven
o'clock,, well appointed broughams were driven into the Fort
all full of ladies and gentlemen bent on enjo3rment. Happy
were the people whose offices or shops lay on the line of route,
for they could and did invite their friends to luncheon— called
" tiffin " here — and to a seat in their windows. Happier still
were the bachelors who belonged to the Bombay Club, and
whose right to windows there and to invite friends was undis-
puted. But there was a happier class yet — ^the people who had
space available for /the erection of a tasteful stand whereon to
place those whom they delighted to honour. All made the best
of their opportunity ; all did their utmost to celebrate the event;
and tiie result was that the Fort presented a pleasant picture
from the earliest hour in the morning. I have, in a previous
letter, mentioned Ihe Esplanade. On this morning it looked
m(»re beautiful than ever, a broad expanse of green grass, well
covered with trees, intersected by a fine road, and approached
by a magnificent street, shaded by wide-spreading banians.
In the centre of the Esplanade is a tasteful statue of the Queen,
and, for a wonder, the Decorating Committee had the good
judgment not to improve it in any way. By night it would be

5() tFITM TBB PRincS Of INDIA.

lit up brilliaatly; but by day it was neither bedecked with
rosettes nor flags. The statue of the Queen, a splendid piece of
sculpture in marble, was lefb alone, and, as a consequence, was
an ornament, and not an eyesore. At the moment of our enter-
ing the Dockyard in order to take the places which were assign-
ed us, the pathways were full of people, the seats in front of the
houses were full, the windows were crammed, the space on the
Esplanade was occupied, and that part of Bombay which is not
aristocratic or official enough to be asked to the Dockyard, or
to have a seat at club or office windows, sat down to see the
Prince pass on the way to Parell.

As an artistic structure the Dockyard shed had undoubted
merits ; it was capacious, light, and airy. A great temporary
building, thickly roofed, so that the rays of the sun cannot
penetrate it, open at the sides so far as is compatible with ex-
cluding said rays in those directions also, and of course open at
both ends, it was the very model of an Indian shelter. One end
looked out upon the sea, where the " Serapis ** lay at anchor, .
and several of the men-of-war were in position also ; the othei
terminated in an archway of exceptional beauty. I have, in
regard to the rest of Bombay, complained of a certain lack cf
ingenuity in respect of the triumphal arches and their mottoes.
Here, however, was no ground for any such complaint. In
broad, English, golden characters on crimson ground, was the
word "Welcome;" on either side of this was an inscription in
Persian and Hindostanee. And ^a pleasant thought it was
which, in characters unintelligible to the English eye, but well
understood by the natives, was thus portrayed. " Worlds of
Welcome and Long Life," said the writer in gold upon crimson
on this pretty arch, while on another a little way off he varied
the phrase, and drew the characters which mean "A Thousand
Welcomes to the Prince !" The interior of the shed was in
keeping with this idea. Banners were hung everywhere, the
• seats were tastefully decorated with red cloth, banks of flowers

THE ABBIVAL OF THE PRINCE. 61

rose in what would otherwise be vacant spaces, and the air was
laden with perfume. Nor was there any scramble for place or
precedence. Maharajah and Maharana, Guicowar and Hubshee,
all had their seats. Oouncilmen and Councillors, Consuls and
newspaper correspondents, had all their appointed positions,
and sat quietly awaiting the advent of the Prince. On the
right-hand side of the passage facing the town, sat the Guicowar
of Baroda, covered with jewels and surrounded by attendants.
In the next comer, half reclining, Tialf leaning on his sword, was
the Maharana of Oodeypore. Opposite His Highness Prince of
Baroda, sat the Maharajah of Mysore, and separated by a tall
flower-bush from him, was the Bajah of Elholapore. The other
and less important chieftains, all clad in marvellous dresses, all
glittering with jewels, and all accompanied by vast numbers of
retainers, were in seats appointed for them, and waited with
curiosity the arrival of the Prince. •

They had not long to wait, for it was now 4 o'clock, and al-
ready a gun is fired. Let me draw the remarkable scene which
follows as it actually appeared to me. The Viceroy and Grovernor
of Bombay have severally boarded the " Serapis " and bid the
Prince welcome; the yard-arms have been manned and the
guns of the fleet discharged in honour of Lord Northbrook ; and
the cannonade will soon begin again, for His Eoyal Highness is
about to land. Steadily looking through a glass, we can see
the boats of the navy getting into line ; we notice close by the
" Serapis " a larger boat than the rest, with the Royal Standard
at the stem, getting into position at the Royal gangway, and
immediately afterwards, figures in red descending the steps.
Still there is no firing, no noise, when the boats all start off* in
line, their oars dropping into the water and then glistening in
the sun. As they come towards land, considerable excitement
prevails in the shed. Political officers in their gold lace coats,
Mahai*ajahs and Rajahs in dresses of velvet and diamonds,
Thakoors, sahebs, and chiefs are all standing up ; the ladies, bril-

62 WITH THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

liantlj dressedy are leaning forward ; Parsees — one old gentle-
man has a most portentous-looking address under his arm — are
gathering together ; the troops for the last time have their arms
at the ''present." On the landing-stage the municipal corporation
has gathered, and the Governor of Bombay, with his staff, is at
the extreme end of the little pier. Onward come the boats, the
oars flashing and dipping. As yet it is too early to see who are
in them, and attention is once more directed to the interior of
the shed. Then we notice that the Maharana of Oodeypore has
a shield ; that the Maharajah of Mysore has left all his diamonds
at home, and only wears strings of pearls ; that the Guicowar
has brought all his brilliants with him ; and that after all. Sir
Salar Jung, in a black velvet dress, trimmed handsomely with
gold lace, is by far the most important native present, so far as
appearances go. Let it not be forgotten that there are notable
Englishmen here also. Se» Sir Bichard Meade in his full-dress
uniform, as he stands holding the Guicowar's right-hand ; notice
Mr. Dalyel and Colonel Malleson, on either side of the Maha-
rajah of Mysore; look at Colonel Herbert, with the Maharana
of Oodeypore, and Mr. Crawford — he who built Bombay market,
and made himself a name — ^with the Hubshee. These are all
remarkable men, worthy of admiration, seeing that on such as
these our Empire in the East depends. Nor should a curious
row of native journalists be overlooked — ^gentlemen in turbans
or Parsees' hats, starched, white petticoats or red dresses, some
with boots, and some with no boots at all — the representatives
of native opinion in India, all of them literary persons of merit,
in their own estimation at least.

But, while you are looking at these, the Prince's boat is ap-
proaching the shore, and the band, which erewhile was playing
a march, now ceases ; for the cannonade has begun, and a tre-
mendous din is being made, which would drown ten bands, or,
indeed, a hundred. For a few minutes this thunder continues,
and then, as it is silenced, '* God save the Queen " is heard ; the

THE ABBIVAL OF THE FRINGE. 63

foremost boat touches the pier, the Prince springs to land,
and a loud cheer arises^a cheer which is taken up on the sea,
carried to the men who are on the yardarms of the vessels,
and by them sent back again to the shore. It is a welcome fit
for a Prince and worthy of a great Empire. Followed by Lord
Alfred Paget, the Duke of Sutherland, Lord Carington, Canon
Duckworth, Lord Aylesford, Colonel Owen Williams, and the
less important membei-s of his suite, accompained, moreover, by
the Viceroy and the Governor of Bombay, the Prince passes the
guard of honour, dressed in white, and only stops when he
comes to the Parsee with the address. Then he makes signs
of readiness ; without delay the address is unfolded, and the
Parsee begins. It is not so portentous as it looks, but is well
written, being the huidiwork work of W, Maclean, the editor
of the " Bombay Gazette " ; and it is short, which is, indeed,
another undoubted merit. In general terms, it was an expres
sion of welcome and an assurance of lojalty to the Crown.
The Prince's reply follows, and is as short as the address. His
Royal Highness acknowledges the loyalty of the people, and
thanks them on behalf of the Queen. He notes what they say
of religious and political freedom, and congratulates them and
himself on the establishment of this freedom in England. Then,
in reply to some kindly words, about the Princess of Wales, he
remarks that she, too, would gladly have visited India, and cou-
cludes by expressing his determination to convey to the Queen
the aasurance of their good- will. This ends the speaking ; the
Prince at once moves forward, followed by his suite, and, as lie
passes along, shakes hands with each Maharajah and Bajah.
Of course Sir Salar Jung is the first thus complimented, for he
has the post of honour ; the rest follow in order of precedence.
And thus the door is reached, when his Boyal Highness enters
his carriage and drives away. Thus the streets are reached,
and the crowds of people are treated to the sight of the Heir
Apparent of England — a sight they acknowledge with loud and
continued cheering.

1

CHAPTER V.

BOYAL FETES.

I shall always associate the illumination of Bombay with a
singular sight which was witnessed in the very centre of the
Mohammedan quarter on the following night The Prince,
having gone on board the " Serapis " to cut his birthday cake,
was expected to land a little after six o'clock and drive round
the town. In honour of the event the inhabitants, Moham-
medan, Parsee, and Hindoo, had done their utmost to outvie
each other. I have already stated that a characteristic trait of
the native mind here is the intense love of glass and light.
When in doubt as to the ornamentation of a room, the Hindoo
hangs up a huge chandelier; if still in doubt, he adds another,
till sometimes he gets eight or ten in an apartment which would
be admirably lighted by a single gas jet By this time he is
perfectly happy. He may have no chairs and no table ; the
floor can take care of itself — ^a mat and a pillow are quite suffi-
cient for that, but he is well satisfied if plenty of glass hides the
ceiling. If he is very wealthy and very reckless, he makes
another addition, which adds to the beauty of the apartment
from his own point of view. From a dealer in the bazaar he
purchases a large number of the cheap German portraits, som^
eighteen inches square, highly coloured and heavily framed and
glazed, and at a distance of half a foot from the ceiling he hangs
thirty or forty pictures of ladies with green hair and yellow
lips, gentlemen with blue cheeks and pink eyes, with pride and
satisfaction. He has no prejudice in the matter. He admires
the portrait of the Pope as much as he does a likeness of the
Emperor William, and he will put Napoleon III., Henri

BOTAL FETES. (55

Eocliefort, and the Crown. Prince of Prussia in a line without
the slightest care. As a rule he does not know for whom the
pictures are intended. That is not at all necessary. Like some
of us at home, who have in our rooms " A Portrait of a Gentle-
man," he values them simply because they are plentifully
painted, and because, when he lights up his chandeliers and sits
on the floor, he can see the gas glittering in the glass .

Nor must it be assumed that he will rest here. If he chances
to have a verandah — ^and most likely he has — he will hang a
few chandeliers out there as well, with a dozen pictures or so
of the Napoleon and Rochefort sort, so that his friends and
acquaintances may admire his taste for art, and envy his pos-
sessions. And, besides all this, he will hang a lamp outside
nearly every window, so that on festivals he can light them up
too, and thus be happier than ever. Possessing such a taste,
then, there is no need for wonder if he can illuminate when
requested to do so« It is a labour of love — a, pleasurable task,
which he understands much better than hanging out bunting;
and the way in which he proved this on the night of the illumi-
nations has placed the matter beyond a doubt for the future.
Bombay^ however, is peculiarly fitted for such a display. Long,
picturesque streets, composed of quaint. Oriental houses, with
over-hanging gables, and gaudily-painted fronts of mosques,
Hindoo temples ornamented with all kinds of images, shrines,
churches, and noble public buildings abound — ^the genius of the
people did the rest.

I question whether such a sight as that which met the Prince
when he landed at the Mazagon pier and joined in the proces-
sion was ever seen before. It was not that he was in a gold
and silver chariot of immense value. Nor was it that the
troops drawn up in the fitful flashing glare appeared like giants.
The real spectacle was the town and its inhabitants. The peo-
ple thought the reverse, and gathered to gaze at the Prince ;
and the most wonderful sight of all was the populace. Wher-

56 WITH THE FBI^CE IN INDIA.

ever they could stand or sit thej occupied a place. Wherever
they could put a light they fixed one. Not garish stars, crowns,
or flames of gas, but hundreds of thousands of tinted oil-lamps,
burning vrith a subdued light, yet marking out every line of
architecture in this extraordinary place. Fi*om the pavement,
starting out from the people who sat thickly on the paths,
rose pyramids and clouds of fire; the steps of public build-
ings were covered with myriads of glasses, all full of burn-
ing oil, fed by women, who with cans in their hands flitted
hither and thither, and kept up the blaze. The great. Govern-
ment buildings were marked out in the same fashion along the
ro(^s and the lines of windows, over the doors, and even to the
tops of the roofs, without regard to trouble or cost ; and if pub-
lic places were thus radiant, the private dwelling-houses of the
natives rivalled them with their chandeliers, lamps, and trans-
^larent devices.

It was one of these that I specially noticed, and it told more
about the native character than volumes specially written could
have said. Under a glittering canopy, closely packed together,
with their best turbans on their heads and their -finest linen
robes, sat a cluster of Mohammedan patriarchs. Their childish
glee was immense, and they waited with pardonable pride for
the advent of the Prince. But it was not their delight or dress,
nor, indeed, was it the arch imder which they sat High over-
head, in great, square letters brilliantly lighted from behind and
plain to view for neai'ly a quarter of a mile, was the inscription
on which they had set their hearts. It was a quaint expres-
sion, one probably that will be read vrith a smile by the edu-
cated and refined people at home: but it was the heartfelt
exclamation of these simple folk, and ran thus : ''Tell mamma
we're happy." No one that looked for a moment at the collec-
tion of ugly but contented faces under that archway could have
had the slightest doubt that their transparency told the truth,
and that in view of the visit of the Prince, the Mohammedans
of Bombay are htt]»py.

nOYAL FETES. 6?

In Bombay the native is not only acknowledged as *' a man
and a brother/' but he is a constant companion. Ton meet him
at receptions ; you tread on his shoeless toes at lev^ ; you sit
next to him in the councils ; and if you chance to be an evil-
doer, you may make his acquaintance, first of all, in the garb of
a policeman, and, secondly, in the robe of a judge. He takes
the chair at meetings, regulates your gas and water supply,
probably stands toward you in the relation of a landlord, and
occasionally in that of a creditor — in which latter case, I am
told, he is a little less relenting than Portia, who, it will be
remembered, first recited an ode to Mercy, and then pursued
the misguided Shylock. But at the Byculla Club you only see
him in the guise of a servant ; he eats no dinner in the grand
saloon ; his residence is not in the chambers which skirt the
racecourse ; the American chairs in the reading-room are not
for him ; and if he were to venture to come there, he would
probably meet with much such a reception as a stranger in the
London Stock Exchange. Thus at the ball which the Byculla
Club gave to the Prince of Wales next evening, the Parsee's
ineffably ugly head-dress as well as the hideous turban of the
Mahratta were alike absent.

A great many uncomfortable pi*ognostications had been
hazarded about that ball. The Prince would not come, there
would be only seventy ladies to seven hundred gentlemen, no-
body of any importance would be there ; it would be a failure,
and nothing else. But, to the confusion of the croakers and
the delight of the club, all this was reversed. The Prince not
only came, but danced nearly every time the band played ; the
ladies were very nearly equal in number to the gentlemen, the
night was one of the merriest on record, and the whole thing
was a grand success. The club deserved it. To make a supper-
room they had erected a huge booth with palm leaves and
canvas, and decorated it so beautifully with flowers that it
resembled the garden which Aladdin saw when he found the

4

58 n^ITH THE FMNCB llf INDIA.

lamp more than a temporary structure of a day's growth ; and
for the dancers the dining-hall of the dub had been beautified
without any regard to cost. Artificial fountains bad been placed
in- adjoining rooms, leafy bowers constructed, and even a wall
of ice blocks fixed behind these bowers, so that, when sitting in
them, the heat of Bombay was forgotten, and the climate found
to be that of the temperate zone.

I remember once hearing a lecture on dancing. The speaker
was a melancholy man, whose chief objection to the diversion
was that its votaries unconsciously waste a great amount of
time in pursuit of what, after all, was an evanescent and unsatis-
factory pleasure. What that unhappy person would have said
of the Byculla ball, it is impossible to conceive. Whether it
was the effect of a good, European, military band, or the novel
fact of a large gatheiing of ladies, or the presence of the Prince,
or the determination to maintain the character of the club, it is
impossible to say. But, whatever was the cause, the hours were
made to fly by with such extraordinary rapidity that when six
o'clock came, they were still waltzing, regardless of daylight and
the clock-hands alike. Did the Prince dance 1 Ask any lady
in the room. Without favour of any kind, and determined only
to give happiness to everybody present, his Royal Highness led
first one and then another into the space reserved for himself
and suite, till at last he ordered that even this restiiction should
be done away with, and to the amusement of poor old Sir Philip
Wodehouse, who looked on with undisguised astonishment,
galloped round the room as though he had lived in Bombay all
his life, and was not the observed of all observers. How the
various sets were formed it boots not to say. English readers
would not recognise many names, and, indeed, would gain but
little information if they did. Suffice it to say that all went off
satisfactorily, that the supper was a great success, and that,
when at length the dancing was over, the Byculla Club had to
congratulate itself on having given one of the most admii^able
fetes in Bombay.

tlOTAL PETS8. 59

But if tlie Byculla ball was a success, the Masons of Bombay
can boast of having achieved something exactly the reverse.
The first thou^t which strikes a stranger on arriving at this
gate of India is one of amazement at the butter they offer you
at table. How it can be made so nasty, by what ingenuity
cream can be so terribly spoiled* and who first found out the way
of producing such an unsavoury mess, are questions that occur
to the mind in succession. So with the ceremony attendant on
laying the foundation stone of the Elphinstone Dock, an incident
on which the inhabitants of Bombay had set great expectations,
one marvels how such a strange jumble could have been
contrived. It was certainly not the result of lackadaisical
managers. Everything was arranged with the precision of
company drill. How the Europeans were to dress, what would
be required of Parsee brothers, what Hindoos might not wear,
and what was expected of Mahammedans, were all detailed with
mai-vellous minuteness.

As to the programme, it was a document quite a yard in
length, and explicit ia every particular. Not only did it
regulate the procession, but it provided for everything that it
should do. Who were to carry drawn swords, and who wands ;
who should have the plans in his pocket, and who should carry
the coins ; where the visitors " of distinction " should walk,
and where those who were not " of distinction " should come ;
who should bear the trowel, and who should mix the moi-tar,
were all specified by name, with long strings of letters after
their cognomens, and the designation of their lodges. Even
the lowering of the stone was to be achieved, not to the lively
tune of a waltz, not to some unconsidered air from Lecocq, nor
even to a " song without words," though a Mendelssohn might
have written it, but " to slow music." The very movements of
the " brethren " who guarded the banners and the brethren who
had no banners to guard, but wore aprons and sashes, were to be
regulated by brethren who had long white wands, whose

60 WITH THE PBINCE IN INDIA.

discretion might be relied upon. The prayer was ready, the
address was written, the com, wine, and oil were in their places,
to be poured upon the stone at a certain stated moment, and
even the " brethren " drawn up on either side of the carpet,
upon which the Prince in entering would walk, had their toes
in the exact position indicated, and their banners in the places
signified by the instructions '' in such case made and provided."
I will not trouble my readers with an account of the position
occupied by the Grand Pursuivant, the Grand Zend-Avesta
Bearer, the Grand District Chaplain, and the Ionic light. It is
of more importance to know where the specially invited specta-
tors were. Under a beautiful canopy, tastefully decorated and
l)leasantly ornamented with green foliage, tiers of seats were
])laced on either side the central avenue, all numbered and
ticketed. Where the Eaj ah of Kholapore and where the Chief of
Jumkundi should sit, how many followers the Khan of Jinjeera
might bring with him — the gentleman who wears a gilt Euro-
pean chimney-pot head-dress upside down — and what was to
be done with them, had all been arranged. When they came
in, therefore — those of them that did come — ^they were taken
to the seats apportioned to them, and placed there — ^not allowed
to go nearer to the foundation stone or further from it, but
fixed in the numbered seats, as though in the stalls at a theatre.
At length a di*um-and-fife band outside announced, by the
nearest imitation to " God savei the Queen " that it could de-
vise on the spur of the moment, that the Prince had arrived,
and then the regulations began to work. His Royal Highness
was met at the door by. what a local paper calls a " brilliant
throng." It was a throng, certainly; of its brilliancy I am by no
means so sure. If, however, sashes of an uncertain blue and
collars of a dingy red constitute brilliancy, the gathering was
v»hat the newspaper called it, without doubt. Along the
avenue formed by the brethren whose backs we had been con-
templating, moved the procession — grand stewaids, grand

BOYAL FETE8. 61

deacons, grand organists, grand bible-bearers, some scores of
grand officers with sticks and banners, and all the implements
of architecture on cushions. And behind all came the Prince
of Wales, preceded by grand sword-bearers and a gentleman,
who, whatever his technical name, should be called grand
candle-bearer.

Proceeding to the throne, which was close to the foundation
stone, the Prince sat down, and was immediately surrounded
by the *' brilliant throng " and the brethren who had kept the
line. From that time we saw no more, except a long row of
badly matched, and in many cases indifferently clothed, backs.
The Rajahs are usually patient men when they come into
contact with English officials. They will wait almost any
length of time, walk almost any distance, and go in almost any
order. But they could not stand the slight put upon them at
the docks, and they quickly rose in a body and moved off. The
backs of Parsee hats and European coats were, afber all, not
sufficiently interesting to detain them any longer. I am told
that speeches were made ; that an address was delivered to
the Prince ; and that his Royal Highness replied in the follow-
ing terms :

"Right Worshipful, Worshipful, and other Brethren, — I thank you for
your address. I have learnt with great pleasure the flourishing condition
of the Oi-aft in this part of India, and the efficiency with which lodges
annually increasing in number ftdfil the objects of their institution by
uniting together men of various races ani creeds in the bonds of fraternal
brotherhood, by giving them common objects of exertion for extending
the knowledge of our ancient Craft, and for promoting the good of all
mankind. It is a great pleasure to me to join the brethren in Bombay in
a work which will tend to the protection of life and property, to the ex-
tension of trade, and to add to the prosperity and happiness of laige bodies
of our fellow-men."

I was also informed that at length the stone was declared well
and truly laid, but I cannot vouch for this. The continued
view of five hundred and fifty-two backs was, after all, seme-
wU;tt tedious,

62 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA,

I wish that those who would deprive our mariners of beer
could have seen the sailors of the fleet at the entertainment
which began before the Masonic festival, and lasted long after
it was over. With that hospitality which is so characteristic
of the Anglo-Indian, the people of Bombay had determined to
feast the men of the fleet ; and accordingly invited them — two
thousand in number — ^to a great banquet in the booth where,
on the day before, the children were feted. I have already
told you how the decorations of the booth were made in prison ;
how goldfoil and tinfoil flags were manufactured by the de-
tained ones ; how wreaths and garlands of artificial flowers were
contrived, and how even great efforts in the way of painting
were made. Would that the reader could have seen the berth
when finished, with its avenues of palm leaves and its coloured
festoons; the table spread with roast sucking-pigs, plum-puddings,
ducksy fowls, great pieces of beef, and all the rest that the
sailor loves. I have hinted that there was beer on. the table,
and so there was. By each plate stood a bottle of Bass' ale
and a bottle of Guinness* stout — not tiny pint bottles, contain-
ing only a draught, but the large vessels of delight known as
quarts. Besides this, there were pipes— clean, white clays —
and cakes of tobacco, lemonade and seltzer water for the tee-
totallers, and an illuminated card as a souvenir of the festival.
No wonder that as the bands played " Unita " the sailors and
marines marched bravely in ; no marvel that, to the tune Gi
«* The Roast Beef of Old England," they grasped their knives
and forks with the air of determined men. I never saw food
disappear with half the rapidity before. Sucking-pigs divided
into quarters, fowls into halves, great heaps of salad filled every
plate, and very soon every mouth too ; and for a time there
was a silence, only broken by the clatter of knives and forks.
It was a moment of action, not talking, and the sailors knew
it. Little need was there for their officers to walk up and
down to encourage them to make themselves at home. They

ROYAL FETES. 63

were quite at home, and for half an hour ate continually, un-
abashed hj the crowd of ladies who looked on and envied theii^
appetites.

But even sailors cannot eat forever, and at length the knives
and forks were heaard no more, although more pigs were on the
table, and reinforcements of ducks were being bi-ought up ; the
mariners were obliged to fedl back upon their pipes and beer.
This they did, and it was just in the midst of all this hilarity
that the band played " God Save the Queen " and the Prince
of Wales entered. Down went the pipes, up jumped the
sailors, and out went such a cheer as was surely never heard
in Bombay before. And then they ran for a form on which
the Prince might 5tand and look at them, whereupon his Royal
Highness jumped up in the most good natured fashion possible,
and, with a glass of lemonade in his hand, shouted out in a
clear, strong voice : " My lads, I am very glad to see you. I
hope you are all enjoying yourselves. I drink to the health
and prosperity of the Indian and Flying Squadrons." It is
superfluous to say that the sailors were excited. They cheered
again and again, and would by no means sit down till his Royal
Highness had gone the round of the tent and taken his de-
parture in a carriage. Then the noise somewhat subsided ;
there was more smoking, and after that came singing.

One song almost deserves to be given, for it was the compo-
sition of a Jack Tar. It was sung by a Mr. Spry, the captain of
the forecastle of the " Serapis," and capitally did he sing it.
The tune was the well-known air of "God bless the Prince of
Wales," and the men joined in the chorus, as though it were
their very last opportunity.

*"* Look at your noble vessels in bunting dressed so gay ;
The siglit JB grand, tiieir yards well manned — ^yes, 'tis a glorious day.
And skimming o'er the water, like birds upon the wing,
Are boats, brave hearts containing, to greet their future king."

64 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

Chobus : '' Come, all ye British seamen ; with shouts the air
shall riDg ;
Three load huzzas, my hearty tars, for England's
future king.**

"Long may such cries of welcome be heard from India's shore t
May Heaven pour down on Eng1and*s crown its blessings evermore t
Our tars upon the ocean, long may their pennant wave,
Our troops maintain their glorious name—the bravest of the brave.*'

Chorus, &o.

When this was done, the band played polkas, and the sailoi*a
danced on the green, with the tinfoil flags in their caps and
green leaves in their button-holes ; and in this way the festi\ i-
ties were kept up long after the moon had replaced the sun^
and lit up the scene with silvery in place of golden rays.

As a country noted for struggles and battles, India may, I
think, fairly claim to hold its own from time immemorial, and
it has now another battle to add to its abnormally lengthy roll.
It had been announced tliat ^' the first Boyal lev^ ever held in
this countiy " would take place at the Secretariat. Those who
wished to be presented to the Prince were to send in their
names ; those who were Selected went, of course, in full dress.
Of the three thousand or so who desired to come a^hird received
tickets, and prepared to go. Now, full dress meant a singular
variety of costumes. To the Parsee it signified wide-spreading
starched petticoats; to the Hindoo a white di^ess with less
starch ; to the military man full uniform, sword and spurs ; to
the civilian Court dress or the claw-hammer coat. I am parti-
cular in specifying the swords and spurs, as they were destined
to play an important part in the day's proceedings. I have
mentioned the dress of the Parsees and Hindoos for a similar
reason. The Secretariat is outwardly a fine, handsome build-
ing. Inside, too, it has a vast number of rooms, in which
native clerks and European ojQ^cials transact the business of the
Presidency with more or less despatch. But it is not fitted for

EOTAL FETES. 65

a lev^e, especially when a thousand persons are invited to
" assist" thereat. The afternoon was terribly hot ; scarcely the
faintest breeze came from the sea^ when the crowd in " full
dress " arrived at the Secretariat.

To make the position clear to the English reader, it is neces-
sary to say that a dais had been erected at the side of one room,
and that it had been arranged that the Prince, accompanied by
his suite, should occupy this, while the happy holders of cards
marched by and bowed. To prevent anything like a rush into
the Royal presence, the room immediately leading into the re-
ception-saloon had been very judiciously divided into several
compartments by stout barriers, over which policemen kept
guard. But similar precautions were not taken with regard to
the library which preceded this — the room into which the card-
holders were shown. Here was an apartment capable of hold-
ing a hundred people without serious discomfort on a
mocjerately cool day, say for ten minutes. In such a case no
particular discomfiture need have been experienced. But here
was a broiling day, the hottest to which Bombay has been
treated for some time, and by way of making amends for this
additional inconvenience the crowd, as it arrived, was allowed to
press into the room without let or hindrance. It is almost need-
less to say, that in a very few minutes the place was so full
that not another individual could gain foothold, and that the
result was a very pretty and instructive scene. I omitted to
mention that special directions had been given to the invited to
be at the Secretariat very early. Let me now add that by some
misunderstanding or other the Prince came very late, and the
situation will be understood.

In that heated room four hundred persons were crushed
together with all the force that as many more coming up the
staircase could employ; and for half-an-hour this state of things
continued without relief. But it was when the first barrier at
length opened, and a dozen or so of the perspiring courtiers

66 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

wei*e admitted, that the fun began. No sooner did the barrier
rise for an instant than a rush took place from all sides of the
room, the converging force of the crowd bearing upon the unfor-
tunate ones in the centre. For a few minutes Parsees, Hindoos,
and Englishmen were pushing alike with all their might. But
presently there was a movement for which I could not account.
The natives appeared to be directing their effoi-ts to getting
away from the military men, of whom there were scores in the
^crowd, rather than to reaching the barrier. There was a stout
Parsee with his hat on the very back of his head, making a
series of grimaces for which no mere pressure could account ;
there was a grim smile on the faces of officers which could
scarcely be caused by the crush and the fray. Was it the full
dress that had done it I Yes ; those military men wore spurs,
and the Parsee dress was thin. Need I say morel What the
hard sword-handle failed to effect — and that was a powerful
agent in persuading neighbouring natives to move a little fur-
ther off — the spur achieved with ease. No Parsee would ven-
ture to place his unprotected ankle against the uncomfortable
appanage of the soldiers' full-dress, but struggled hard to place
a trousered European between himself and the warriors ; so the
crowd swayed backward and forward ; coat-tails were torn off;
cravats and collars became limp ; starched gowns were tangled
and rent ; and in the end the. steaming, rumpled crowd passed
by the Prince in a dishevelled, disreputable condition, such as
might be expected of men, who, for nearly an hour, had been
mangled in such a throng on such a day.

Once in the reception-hall, however, everything was well
arranged. To the right of the Prince stood Sir Philip Wode-
house ; on the left of his Boyal Highness were the Duke of
Sutherland, Lord Alfred Paget, and Lord Charles Beresford, all
in uniform. Behind them were ranged the Government ser-
vants, attired in scarlet coats, and wearing turbans of white
and gold. These took it by turns to wave the huge gilt pun-

BOYAL FETES. 67

kahs, or fans attached to the ceiling, and so stirred the air,
and rendered the heat less oppressive than it would otherwise
have been. As for the Prince, it is almost needless to say that
he received those who were presented, pleasantly, bowing grace-
fully to them as they went by, and now and then bestowing
some particular mark of approbation upon well-known and
honoured members of the community.

Immediately after the lev^ the Prince was conducted to a
wide-stretching piece of grass-land near the Esplanade, where
some thousands of the children of Bombay were being feasted
and amused. It is impossible to imagine a prettier sight than
that which these little ones presented. A huge bower of leaves
and coloured bunting, divided into compartments in such a
manner as to resemble a miniature forest, had been erected for
them, and inside this the children had been treated to tea, ices,
fruit, and cakes. By the time the Prince arrived, however, they
had all left the booth and t$^en up their position in long lines
opposite a kind of stand erected for the reception of his Eoyal
Highness, and here they patiently waited the coming of the
Prince. The great characteristic of a Bombay crowd is the
variety of colour which is massed together, and in the case of
the children this was especially noticeabla Nearly all the
Parsee boys wore gold or silver caps, black velvet jackets
trimmed with gold lace, and little silken knickerbockers of
various hues. The girls had light shawls over their heads —
cerise, light blue, bright green, yellow, pink, purple, and white
being the most common. The effect was exceedingly striking,
and could not have been produced in any other country. Sud-
denly a signal was given, and all the little ones jumped up and
began to cheer. Simultaneously the carriage of the Prince,
escorted by a body-guard of Dragoons, entered the enclosure,
and hastened up to the stand. Without any delay his Boyal
Highness alighted, mounted to the place assigned to him, and
bowed repeatedly to Lis tiny atlmirers, who testified in every

68 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

possible way their delight at thus seeing the Prince. But, if they
cheered when he thus bowed to them and smiled, their voices
rose to the shrillest pitch when a pretty Parsee girl, stepping
lightly up to his Royal Highness, made him a deep curtsey, and
then threw a garland of white flowers over his neck. They
]izmi>ed on the forms and waved their hands ; they shouted, and
stamped, and clapped their hands together, and danced for very
joy lit thus seeing the distinguished stranger accepting their
gift, and actually standing in front of them with the garland on.
A moment latfer, another little girl ran up the steps of the stage
and presented the Prince with a bouquet of flowers ; whereat
the cliildren cheered again.

But the ceremony of the evening, so far as the little ones
were concerned, was yet to come. A lane was formed in front
of the stand, and thither a number of pretty girls and boys were
conducted. Then, amid perfect silence, these young people
struck up a song in Guzerathi in honour of the Prince. Pirst,
the girls would sing, clapping their hands together now and
then in a rhythmical manner ; then the boys would reply, and
pi-esently all would join in a strange chorus. Sometimes their
mug was low, almost in a whisper; then they would shout out
with all their might, and make the air ring again. Perhaps
their chant was a little long, and, to those who could not under-
stand it, a little tedious ; but his Royal Highness looked graci-
ously on, and, when it was finished, thanked his little admirers,
and so drove away amidst more cheering than ever. These
were the words of the song :

♦'All haU to thee ! most noble Prince ; this day
To thee in song we would our homage pay ;
Though far away thy mother's splendour streams,
These distant realms are gladdened by the beams,
When thou, her empire's heir, our Prince, ait fonnd
Here, in our midst, upon the Indian ground,
While all the nation rises up to greet

nOYAL fETBS. 69

Our Boyal gaest. Bat for a welcome meet
What can we render but our loyal love.
And hope that all thy life may noble prove !**

As the sun was setting, fireworks were sent up for the
amusement of the little singers and their companions, and then
they dispersed.

Perhaps the most ei\joyable f^te at which his Eoyal Highness
was present in or about Bombay was the visit to the Caves of
Elephanta. It had been previously announced that the trip
would take place at evening, that the caves would be illumi-
nated, that the fleet would be lighted up, that fireworks would
be let ofi", and that a pic-nic would take place ; and to gain invi-
tations half Bombay excited itself. They would have given up
the receptions, their seats at the dock stone-laying ceremony,
and even sacrificed their tickets for the Masonic ball, for the
sake of the Elephanta Caves and its delights. But it was all to
no purpose — only 160 were invited, and these started from the
Apollo pier. It was a particularly bright afternoon when we
assembled on the pier, ready to embark on board one of the
three steamers which were in waiting for passengers. The
ships in the harbour were gay with bunting ; over the purple
hills which skirt the water could be seen a dark blue sky of
which you have no idea in England; the sun*s rays danced
merrily on the waves ; while, through the crevices in the rocks,
where light did not penetrate so readily, and which thus enabled
the eye to overcome the glare, could be seen the round moon
rising. A few more minutes and we were all on board j a very
few minutes later and the sun had suddenly disappeared below
the horizon.

There are certain sights which remain impressed on the
mind ; such a one shortly presented itself to us who were bound
for the Elephanta Caves. Let me say that these caves are situ-
ated in the centre of a -huge hill which rises abruptly from an
inland, and may be seen for miles. All over the sides of the

70 ^'ITH THti Pkl:^CM l]f INDIA,

hill is jungle — thick, impassable bush : rumour says, full of
snakes — a grand spot being left here and there for those who
love pick-nicking and a day in the wild parts of the island.
To reach the temple or cave in which the Hindoos many years
ago worshipi)ed, it is necessary to ascend a long flight of stone
steps ; and hei-e it was that the ingenuity of those whose busi-
ness it was to arrange the fete had first exerted itself. All
along these steps, reaching nearly to the top of the mountain,
were brilliant lines of light, thousands of tiny lamps suspended
from arched supports all along the line of passage, right up to
the very mouth of* the caves. It is needless to say that we
greatly admired all this, and were not long in going up the
ascent, and ranging ourselves in lines, in order that the Prince
might pass through to the banqueting-hall ; for the caves were
arranged for a banquet of no unimportant character — not a
mere "snack" of refreshment, but a substantial repast, such as
j^eople need at six in the evening who have come a considerable
distance on the sea. When his Royal Highness came the band
struck up merrily, the guests went to their places, and the feast
began.

The native religion and the native temple may ordinarily be
dark, but we certainly had light enough. From the rocky ceil-
ing hung large chandeliers; from the floor rose pyramids of
light in the shape of devices in lanterns; the dais on which the
Prince sat was glittering with wax candles, and even the
smaller caves, which boasted curious histories, were illuminated
in like manner. It is unnecessary to detail the banquet ; and
as for the speech, it was comprised in a single sentence by Sir
Philip Wodehouse, who murmured : "Gentlemen, I propose the
health of *The Queen,'" and then sat down; whereupon the
Prince rose, and departed to view the caves, the company fol-
lowing. A short inspection sujficed, and the steamers were
' quickly filled in anticijmtion of the return voyage. A few
minutes eflected a start, and then one of the finest pyrotechnic

HOY At fET^S. 71

displays ever seen was witnessed. On the top of the hill rose a
great blaze; down the steps the light of the lamps was changed
successively from white to red, blue, and green>.the line of fire
was continued to the water's edge, and even blazed brightly on
the water. It was a volcanic mountain in eruption, with the
huge crater in full play and the red-hot lava running down the
sides. And as for the ships in the harbour, they suddenly sprang
into light, too, and from stem to stern, from yardarm to yard-
arm, from masthead to boom-point, blazed with illumination.
As the Boyal steamer and those containing the guests passed
between the lines of men-of-war, blue portfires were burned,
thousands of rockets went up, and altogether the energy of the
sailors was so great and the supply of rockets so plentiful, that
one might readily have imagined a great naval action to be tak-
ing place, or have siipposed that the bombardment of Bombay
was in full swing. "We moved along quickly, wondering greatly
at the grand display, but perhaps a little glad to be out of reach
of the falling sticks, till we reached the Apollo Bunder, and
there searched till after midnight for carriages that had strayed
or drivers who had gone.

Of minor incidents there were many — the visits paid by
the chiefs and the return visits to the chief, the receptions at
Government House, Parell, and the Masonic ball on Thursday
night, all aiding to fill up the time which remained after the
major ceremonies had been arranged.

Up to this time the Prince had not given away any of his
fire-engines or organs. Whom they were intended for re-
mained yet to be seen ; books, swords, and rifles mainly repre-
senting his Royal Highness' gifts up to this period. Of course
these gifts were selected with a view of suiting the particular
tastes and needs of the recipients. Thus the Eajah of Khola-
pore, aged fourteen, h%d a gold snuflf-box, with the Prince's
monogram on the outside of the lid, a silver medal commemo-
rative of the visit, a large sword, and some English books of

72 tFITH TSJB FUINCE IlT INDIA.

pictures. The Maharajah of Oodejpore, aged eighteen, got a
snuff-box, a book of English coronation ceremonials, a sword, a
rifle, a medal, and a riding-whip. The Guicowar, aged nine,
received a particularly large snuff-box, a sword longer than he
is tall, an album of photographs, a book of engravings, a medal,
and a watch and chain. A very irreverent person suggested
that a handsome whistle, a top, and a box of the best building
bricks would have been more suitable ; but he was very pro-
perly suppressed. Somehow or other, the Nizam of Hydera-
bad's representative received no snuff-box, but in place of that
got, for his Royal but youthful master, a huge silver flagon of
the time of Marlborough (teetotallers mark that !), three rifles,
a ring, some " valuable " books, and a scabbard belt. The Ma-
harajah of Mysore, who has nearly reached the mature age of
fourteen, found himself the proud possessor of a snuff-box, a
silver flagon — also of Marlborough's time — a sword and scabbard
belt, three books (" valuable," of course), a riding whip, and a
pair of field-glfiusses — at which extraordinary miscellaneous
assortment his Highness seemed somewhat amazed.

The presents made to the Prince already would fill a large
museum admirably. Daggers, Cutchee guns, tea-services,
rhinoceros-hide shields, swords, lances, glass, necklaces, ank-
lets, bracelets, shawls, carpets, ancient guns, suits of armour,
jewels, and cups only represented part of the things — ^they were
almost as diversified as the selection the Prince's advisers made,
and almost as useless. A white elephant, a mangoose, a box of
snakes would complete the collection.

OHAPTEB VI.

MFf I IT POONA.

Hdw the Prince w^ received at Poena, how lie listened to
an address and made a suitable reply, and how he afterwards
drove to the €k)veminent House, which is called Gunnesh
Khind, and then gave a ball, needs no description. I propose,
.however, to give you some idea of what kind of place it was
which his Boyal Highness visited, and how the time was spent.

Poena is, without doubt, a lovely city. High up among the
hills, some thi*ee thpusand feet above the level of the sea,
though actually situated on a wide plain or expanse of table-
land, it is refreshed by brisk breezes, which greatly temper the
heat of the sun. If the days are sultry the evenings are cool ;
even when the sun is highest there is a shade under fche wide-
. Reading trees which fill its gardens and overhang its roads.
Its houses — ^I refer, of course, to those occupied by Europeans
— ^are half hidden by the foliage of plantain, mango, fig, and
tamarind. Beautiful shrubs with bright scarlet leaves, roses
.by thousands, and myriads of cpnvolvuli are on every hand,
and even the hedges of prickly pear lend their own, wild grace
to complete the scene. Such a place needed but little decora-
tion. It was like attempting to ornament a conservatory ; and
this the good people of Poena saw, and very wisely noted. No
festoons of artificial flowers, therefore, spanned the road, no
mimic branches of palm were made into imitation bowers.
Triumphal arches there were, but they were in keeping with
the idea of an Eastern city, and one was especially worthy of
notice. A light, s^ni-circular structure spanned the road. Its
centre was a huge, glass square, surmounted by a domOi such as

5

74 WITH THE FBINCE IN INDIA.

you see afc the top of every mosque. On either side this was
supported by another glass square and four minarets. The
whole was coloured a rich blue, and then further ornamented
with gold and silver leaf^ On the lower part of the arch itself
was written in Persian, '' A thousand welcomes to the Prince/'
also in letters of gold ; flags hung from Venetian masts at its
sides, the whole being flanked by large trees covered with great,
green leaves.

But, if no paper roses or linen lilies decorated the road, the
place had been made to assume a very holiday-like appearance;
for from the branches of the trees were suspended many thou-
sands of Chinese lanterns, like brilliantly-painted fruit; from the
pathway rose pyramidal stands for the support of lamps and
glasses, and wherever colour could lend its aid it was enlisted
in the work. Leaving all this pleasant view behind, the cool
bungalows in their luxurious retreats, the splendid trees, and
the well-built arches, I drove into the native quarter, which
was preparing, in its way, too, to receive the Prince. Poona
European, Poona fashionable, may change every day. Wealthy
Parsees from Bombay, well-paid civilians, sti-angers and so-
journers though they may be in the land, will come up and
build new houses, enclose new gardens, and decorate new bunga-
lows, and the face of Poona where Englishmen live will alter
continually. Native Poona, the city that was captured by the
English half a century ago, is the same forever. If it existed
in the time of Abraham, it was much in the same condition
then as now — the manners of the people and their dwelling-
places, their temples and their bazaar.

I thought it would be interesting to see whether these ancient
streets and thoroughfares had any welcome for the Prince, or
whether the inhabitants, having come out into the high road
and stared their All, had gone back to undecorated homes to
forget all about the great Sahib who had just made his entry.
My first glance augured badly. In the street upon which I

LIFE IN FOONA. 75

came a temple was open, the people were pouring in, a priest
was outside inviting worshippiers to enter, and a band of four
tomtoms and five reed-pipes was making a terrible din. The
only decoration visible was a painting upon a wall representing
the goddess Parbuttee with four arms and a spear, seated in a
chariot mounted <m five wheels, killing a tiger with seven l^s,
a blue head, and a red tail. As a work of art it was incom-
parable, but from the loyal point of view it was just then
worthless. Parbuttee may have been the dread of tigers of
this description, and very properly so too ; but the pictorial
record of her killing them had nothing to do with the entry of
the Prince of Wales. My disappointment was but momentary.
A comer turned, another street entered, the line of route which
the Prince must take if he wished to touch upon the bazaar,
and the decorations sprang up on every side.

Pray do not imagine for a moment that gilded trophies of art
or massive archways of highly-decorated and well-stretched can-
vas were numerous, or that Defries had been called in and given
unlimited instructions to decorate the place according to his
latest designs. There were flags ; but they were mostly of the
pocket-^handkerchief size, and in many cases were actually small
pocket-handkeixshiefs ; there were triumphal arches, but they
were generally composed of three very rough scaffold-poles, a
couple of sheets, and a pendant portrait of his Royal Highness
as sold in G^many for half a thaler. Festoons and wreaths
were there ; but nothing half so funny had ever been seen before.
Decorations were made with ragged blankets, strips of red cloth,
pieces of coloured paper, and old cuii^ins, at which the tiniest
English boy would have laughed, had he seen them ; and alto-
gether the decorations of the streets, setting aside the lamps for
the illuminations, which were very numerous, could scarcely
have been worth many shillings. Yet, worthless as were the
materials, these simple offerings of loyalty were more valuable
than many a splendid monument in the outer town. No wealthy

76 WITH THE PEINOB IN INDIA.

Parsee dependent on the continuance of British rule for very
existence had supplied these decorations; no rich civilian,
drawing high pay from Government, had paid for these flags.
They were the freewill-ofloring of a well-governed, satisfied,
happy people — ^the once conquered but now loyal Mahrattas ; the
once formidable but now friendly Mohammedans and Hindoos.
They did not cheer a great deal when they saw ihe Prince ; the
reception they gave him was cordial, though not enthusiastic ;
but they went away to their homes and tested that they were
glad to see him by doing what they could to make their hovels
and temples, their tanks and their shops, look pleasant, in case
his carriage should chance to drive that way during his stay in
Poona.

It was about three o'clock on the Sunday afternoon when I
drove from Poona to the hill and temple of Parbuttee. On ihe
road some scores of pilgrims, carrying flowers, bags ci rice, and
in some cases little bags of money, were toiling along in the
direction of the sacred staircase and the shrine of Shiva. Some
were walking ; a party of five had chosen camels as a Ineans of
transit ; one gentleman, who, by the way, presently said one of
the longest prayera on record, was going on a bullock; and
three or four were moving along on their knees. These last
appeared to be very holy men, for their hair was very long,
their faces were very dirty, and their costume, to use the mildes^
term, was insufficient. At length we reached the foot of the
staircase which leads to the top of the sacred hill. This cele-
brated temple, perched as it is on the top of an eminence over-
looking a vast champain, with its towers, walls, and steps,
reminded me very much of Windsor Castle.

After some toil the summit was reached, and a man whose
head was clean shaven, all but a small top-knot, introduced
himself as the second priest. The chief, who was ^hty or
thereabouts, was just then engaged in counting the rupees,
annas, and piee which the faithful had brought during the day,

T9B AB^EJ^ TO T9S TBMPUI OV PABBUTTEB, NEAB ?OONA«

e^^ -^ '

LIFE IN FOONA. 77

and mentally apportioning the sum he had to divide. The col-
lection of coins appeared yaloable ; and, when tiiis old teacher
and priest did presently condescend to speak, it was money
that formed his principal topia Not so the priest who volun-
teered to conduct me through the temple. '' I'm a Brahmin,"
he remarked, ^' and a priest here. I dare say you wonder," he
continued, ^' at the way I speak English, There is no need for
wonder. I was educated at the Deccan College in Poena."
{Iducated he certainly had been, for his diction was as good as
that of most Englishmen. '< Yes," he said, as we entered the
shrine, '' education is a good thing. It expands the mind.
There's the god of learning, you see " (pointing to an extra-
ordinary image with ever so many animals' heads). " And
there," continued the educated man, directing his index-finger
towards another indescribable figure, " is the god of light."
" Do you think the Prince will come here 1 " enquired the priest,
as we mounted another short flight of st^ps, and looked out of
the window from which the last Peshwa watched the defeat of
his troops in the battle of Khirkee ; '' because, if he does, I
dare say he'll make us a nice present. What with illuminating
the place last night and white-washing it throughout, I've spent
a good deal of money. The Governor of Bombay came and
gave us 80 rupees, the Viceroy sent a letter with 120 rupees in
notes the day after he came, and I think his Eoyal Highness
would behave handsomely. I certainly hope he will come."

It was a singular picture which presented itself at this
moment. Over the plain, in the centre of which Poena lay,
half hidden by th' *rees, could be seen still coming, worshippers
by the hundred. Av J*^ very moment when the bells in the
shrine were tinkling in honour of Shiva, the bells in the church
steeples of Poena were ringing the Sunday chime; and the
worshippers of the G^enius of Destruction were passing on their
way to their devotions, the Votaries of the Genius of Love. I
enquired how many pilgrims visited the shrine, and learned

78 ^ITH tSE PBIirCE Ilf INDIA.

about 2^000 a day was the usual number. Moreover, I found
that eighty priests live on the com, wine, and oil that the de-
vout bring thither, and that, to enable them to eke out their
religious existence. Government grants the temple an annual
subsidy, which was till lately 30,000 rupees, but is now 24,000.
<' Everybody that comes here gives something," thoughtfully re-
marked the priest as I turned to go, and he held out a box^ in
which I deposited a rupee ; whereupon a horrible crew of de-
formed ones followed me down the steps uttering loud cries for
relief, and a score of children whose knowledge of English was
confined to " Sahib, give," continued the chase for a quarter of
a mile.

Next morning, a little before eight o'clock, the Prince, ac-
companied by his suite, rode to Parbuttee, and visited the
shrine. Breakfast was provided by Sir Philip Wodehouse at
the foot of the steps, and there were actually elephants ready
to convey his Royal Highness up the ascent ; with such aid,
the Prince at length stood on the summit, and looked at the -
shrine. The educated Brahmin was there, and did the honours
of the place with due form ; and in the end he got the antici-
pated present from the Prince in the shape of a large bag of
rupees (200, 1 believe), which he afterwards shared with the
amiable old gentleman whose peculiar province appeared to be
the care of money and valuables.

The review at Poena was a decided success. By four o'clock
in the afternoon the tixx)ps were on the ground. The site
chosen was the race-course, a few miles from the spot where the
celebrated battle of Khirkee, which decided the fate of the
Mahratta nation, was fought. Over the very ground on which
the 1st Division of the Bombay Army now stood, Mahratta
cavalry were wont to manoeuvre daily, and, as though the in-
tention was to show the difference between the old order of
things and the new, not a single horseman, except the few who
kept the ground, was placed on parade. Let us look at the

UFB in POONA. 79

picture wHch is presented for the Prince's inspection by the
troops under that admirable soldier, Lord Mark Kerr.

In the centre of a plain, sorrounded by hills, are two long
lines of infantry soldiers, flanked on either side by artillery.
Nearer inspection shows these foot-soldiers to comprise seven
battalions of native infantry and two English battalions. The
white men, belonging to the 7th Fusiliers and the 15 th of the
line, comprise the right wing; the 1st Bombay Grenadiers,
distinguishable by their red caps, are in the centre ; while on
the left are the rest of the native regiments, dressed similarly
to English troops, save that in place of the helmet they wear a
white puggaree. They are drawn up in close order ; the guns,
on the right, are ready to salute the Royal party when it shall
arrive ; and Lord Mark Kerr, with his suite, as general of the
division, is the centre, just in front of the band.

To see the pleasant show the Mahrattas of all the country
round, to say nothing of Poena itself, have come in many thou-
sands, and, as is their wont on such occasions, are squatted on
their haunches, and are chattering with all the glee of children.
There is little need of the policemen with whips to keep them
in order ; they are far too deeply interested in the spectacle to
be troublesome, as their simple faces and clasped hands clearly
indicate. Besides, they have on their very best turbans, and
the starchiest of white gowns they can boast — ^to say nothing
of the fact that every papa amongst them has brought all his
sons, and that hundreds of these little people are seated with
their elders, munching sugar-cane and plantains, and adding
their share to the general hubbub. Up in the grand stand the
ilUe of the town are perched — the collectors, revenue officers,
officials of all kinds, and military men, together with ladies
whose brilliant dresses add to the picturesqueness of the scene.
Then there is just such a long line of carriages as one sees on a
fashionable race-course in England, extending to a great dis-
tance, and constituting altogether a Very creditable turn-oat for
an Lidian city.

Presently, Sir Chitrles Stareley, who is just ^w Command^N
in-chief oi the Bombay Army, oomes upcm Hie ground, and
rides about as nervously as he used to do in t^ days at Alder-
shot, when he was trying to disoover the whereabouts oi Carey
and Lysons. Sir Charles Staveley has very good reason to be
anxious, for time is flying, and i^ere is no sign of the Prince.
At last an orderly gallops across the ground, waves his hand t6
the ardllery, and the guns on the left begin to fire the Boyal
salute. A minute later the Prince arrives, followed by his
suite, and, preceded by General Mark Kerr, at onod gftUops
over to the artillery and begins an inspection of the line. All
of a sudden a horse is seen to rear and l^row its ridet; *ShA
animal dashes across the plain, and is making* foi* the crowd,
when a native officer rushes pluckily up and stops it. He has
scarcely done so before a rider is seen spurring his (larger to«>
wards the grand stand, calling for a surgeon. *' Somebody's
hurt; who can it beT' is the question anxiously asked, axid
field glasses are turned towards the Royal pM*ty, whither the
doctor is making his way. Then it is seen that Loi^' Cfiiietf les
Beresford is being lifted into a palanquin, and that he is in-
sensible. The Prince must needs go on and ii^^>ect the troops ;
but the sufferer is left in very good hancte, aad is slowly
brought up to the grand stand, where a carriage is procured
and waits for him. Br. Fayrei^ and Dr. Close lifb their charge
very carefully into the carriage, and, On exattiining him, find
that, though shaken, he is after all not seriously hiiri They
give hJTTi a glass of champagne, which so i^evives him that he
forthwith takes a cigar, and is conveyed hoilie.

Meanwhile the troops are forming up on the 1^ <^ Prince
has returned to the flagstaff, and the artillery are comii^ past
at a walk. Steadily, in half-batteries, well-trained and with
admirable precision, these famous gunners go by, the spectat<»«
applauding their soldierly appearance. Following them, oMne
tlie men of the 7th, the band playing a ca^tal march atnd the

LIFE IN POONA. 81

troops stepping out admirably. They are followed by the 1st
Bombay Orenadiers, whom we just now saw in line-^a fine
battalion, well drilled, dressing well, and going by in grand
divisions almost as steadily as the European regiment which
preceded it. Three more battalions of native infantry follow,
also in grand divisions, and also in good cnrder. This closes the
first brigade, and the second is not far behind. But just at this
moment there is a snort, and at a terrific pace, with a terrified
man on his back, another horse shoots across the plain, and
darting through the Prince's suite, only clearing the Prince by
about a yard, dashes in amongst the crowd. To all appearance
thei*e must be great loss of life, for the people cannot get away,
closed in as they are by carriages, when it is seen that a mounted
officer has stopped horse and rider by a swifb jerk, and prevented
what threatened to be a fearful disaster. All this is done iii
rnueh less time than it takes to tell, and the Australian horse
is in safe keeping side by side with the animal which threw
Lord Charles Beresford. The tro(^ having gone by are now
re-formed, and come past again in close column of battalions,
the artillery rattling along at a quick trot and keeping good
time. Just as it is getting dusk, the whole are brought into
line again and advance, the bands play " €bd save the Queen,"
the troops present arms, the review ia over, and the Royal
party leave the ground.

Immediatefy Poena is in a blaze of illumination and pyrdleoh-
nic disphty. Bockets spring up in every direction, set pieces
appear suddenly on the right hand and the lefb, coloured lights
are burned, and aH kinds of fireworks splutter and bang, while
l^e happy Mahrattas in long strings, hand in hand, walk about
incessantly, and forget all their fancied troubles. " They have
been a good deal excited," said a political agent who chanced
to be at Poena, " about the Mulhar Kao affair lately ; but these
fireworks will overcome all that." I i^ink he was right.

CHAPTER VIL

GAMES AND 8P0BT8 AT BABODA.

The Prince was well received at Baroda. The scene which
presented itself at the railway station the morning he arrived
was in keeping with his previous receptions.

The city of Baroda proper lies far from the embodiment of
science which we owe to (xeorge Stephenson. The inhabitants
are as singular in their costume, and I should say as objection-
able in their habits, as they were when tea-kettles, to say
nothing of steam-engines, had yet to be invented. And as the
railway has not, for manifest reasons, come to them — ^that is to
say, to their very doors — ^they have declined to come in their
corporate capacity to the railway. Individually they come by
thousands; but they have not extended their buildings nor
enlarged their borders so as to embrace the line and its belong-
ings. Three tradesmen, more enterprising than the rest of their
countrymen, have established shops at which stores to the value
of about eighteenpence are regularly kept. But, beyond this, the
unsoaped, semi-nude native prefers the bazaar to the open countiy
road, and sits quite contentedly there, far from steam-whistles
or the noise of railway-trucks. As a consequence, there is a
fine open .space in front of the station, fringed with pretty
Eastern trees, amongst which figure three or four palms, plenty
of banyan and plantain trees, and a goodly number of large-
leaved and heavy-foliaged specimens such as can only be found
in a climate like this.

With a view to watching somewhat closely the behaviour of
the people on the occasion of his Royal Highness' entry, I
started for Baroda on the day previous to the Prince's visit.

GAMES AND SPOBTS AT BAItODA. 83

Through the kindness of Sir Madava Bao^ the distinguished
Prime Minister of £aroda/a reSting-place had been prepared for
me— no small boon in a district which is innocent of hostelries
and knows nothing of inns. £7 some mischance, however, I
missed the carriage that was sent to me, and as a result made
my first acquaintance with the eccentric yehicle known as the
Baroda bullock-gharry immediately upon my arrivaL It has
always been my practice to " speak well of the bridge that car-
ries me over." But the Baroda bridge, or, rather, Baroda
bullock-carriage, must be the exception, and prove the rule. I
will not attempt to describe that doleful ride ; yet it was in the
progress of this experience that I saw first the preparations
which were being made to receive the Prince. Thousands of
natives were hard at work all along the line of route from the
railway station to the British Eesidency, also outside the town.
Triumphal arches — ^notwithstanding that Mr. Hill, the resident
chief engineer, had only received a few hours' notice — were
springing up aif rapidly as though it had been the sole business
of his life to construct ornamental spans of leaves and bunting,
instead of building excellent roads and bridges. On either side
of the road were miniature arches and festoons of green leaves,
flags, too, made literally on the spot — for they were being cut
out on the roadside by Mahratta workmen — ^were being hung,
and places arranged for Chinese lanterns and the little lamps
with which it is the practice to illuminate here. It must be
remembered, too, that if the very situation of Baroda, which is
placed in a lovely grove of trees, aided in the work, no cunning
contractor with tons of material was at hand to command the
thousands of labourers and furnish them with carefully planned
and elaborately prepared devices. On the contrary, all had to
be done in a day, with whatever was ready to hand ; and if the
Prince congratulated Mr. Hill on arrival, and expressed sur-
prise, as he did, it was no more than the merest justice to a
most energetic and ingenious man. Suffice it to say that, when

84 If^ITB THE fMlNCJB IST INDIA.

the eyezktfol morning arrivedi Baroda was fit to receiye a
King.

It is not of the deooratians that there is need now to speak;
it was the spectacle which Sir Madava Rao had, with character-
istic ability, prepared for his Royal Highness. ** I will show
the Prince," said the amiable Premier, *^ a sight such as he will
not see anywhere else in India," as we stood on the railway-
station steps and looked upon the space in front. And certainly
the picture presented was perfect. Drawn in a long line exacUy
in front was a regiment of the Guicowar's infantry, neatly at-
tired in buff Behind them, in uniforms of light blue, with
light blue turbans and long, shining, pennon-supporting lances,
were the Guicowar's cavalry. All round were natives by thou-
sands, in costumes of every kind and colour. In the centre of
the square were, however, the chief figures of the scene, for
there fifteen magnificent elephants, splendidly housed and
caparisoned, stood side by side. Every elephant was painted
all over with some bright pigment^ — light yellow, light blue,
light red, light green. On the forehead and down the front of
the trunk were painted devices of most intricate description^
singularly clever and curiously effective I have said that they
carried their houdngs and trappings. The howdah on the
elephant which was to carry the Prince was of fine gold, in
value worth forty thousand sovereigns. Cloth-of-gold hung
down his sides, anklets of gold were round his legs — even his
tail was ornamented ; his ears were brilliantly painted, and his
tasks were encircled with huge rings of red-coloured ivory. As
for the other elephants, they, too, had valuable seats for their
riders, railed cars of silver fixed on silver doth, fastened in
their places with silver buckles.

Presently the Guicowar drove up in a pretty, little carriage,
made wholly of silver and gold — b. work of art, indeed, suoh as
can hardly be surpassed — and on his arrival he was received
with the English National Anthem by the band, with *' present

GAMES AND 8P0RT3 AT BABODA. 85

arms ** by the soldiers, and a vast amount of bowing from the
crowd. His retainers, the chiefs and sirdars of the kingdom,
in number nearly a hundred, ranged up in two lines a little
lower down the road then the place where the elephants stood.
Suddenly a numbw of fogndgnals, which had been placed upon
the Hne for the purpose of indicating the approach <^ the Royal
train, were fired, whereupon the two companies of the d3rd
r^ima[it of English troops, drawn up on the platfcmn, {nresented
arms, ^e Besident of the Station, the Assistant Resident, the
English officers, and the officials of ike place, stood round the
Guicowar and Sir Madava Rao, and the band struck up ** Qod
sore the Quo^l" As the engine approached the Prince was
seen standing outside the saloon carriage, looking on the plat-
form with evident interest, and, as soon as the train stopped,
his Royal Highness descended and shook hands warmly first
with the Guicowar and then with the Premier.

Sitting down on a couch, the Prince conversed fcnr some
minutes with his Highness, who afterwards led him outside the
station, where the elephant with the golden howdah was kneel-
ing. Taking the Prince of Wales by the right hand, the little
Guicowar asked him toasoend the ladder to the howdah, which,
alb^t that the elephant was kneeling, was yet six or seven feet
from tiie ground. To this the Prince assented, and, being fol-
lowed l^ Uie Guicawar and Sir Madava Rao, was hoisted into
the air, and so sat high above everybody, on the right of the
youthful mkr of Baroda. The staff of the Prince followed,
four sitting in each howdah, till all were in their places, where-
upon a piiocesstcm was formed of javelin men, banner-bearers on
korsebadc, chiefbains, hussars, irregular cavalry. Royal Artillery,
and the elephants, ^e whole being bi*ought up in the rear by
the Guieowar's soldiery. Slowly moving along, the Prince
passed by the gates of the city towards the cantonments, where,
under Colonel Thompson, the Brigadier of the district, and a
4i8^nguished officer, the excellent native 9th and 22nd infantry

86 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

regiments were found drawn np. Receiving their salute, the
Royal party made for the Residency, where a durbar was shortly I
afterwards held, at which the Guicowar and the Prince sat to- 1
gether in the sight of the principal men of the State.

It had been announced that in the afternoon there would bel
an elephant fight and other sports, and I made the best of myl
way to the arena to see the sports of which I had heard. This !
was a large, oblong space, strongly walled in, entered through a
gateway, across which three thick bars of wood were thrown.
Inside this space were three structures, which were at once
noticeable — a huge grand stand of four storys; a circular
structure of brickwork, about five feet high, with a tree in the
centre, and two flights of steps cut in the stone ; and a circular
walled structure, looped with holes just large enough to allow
of the ingress of a man — ^particularly a flying, terror-stricken,
elephant-hunted man — should such a one need its hospitable
shelter. Overhanging the walls were trees rich in foliage,
forming a splendid background from whatever side you scanned
the picture. On the tops of the walls thousands of Mahrattas,
in all kinds of costumes, were perched, their faces full of glee,
and their arms full of children ; on hills, which overlooked the
arena were thousands more of them ; peering in at the various
gates between the bars were hundreds again ; and inside the
arena, about one hundred athletic men, some with spears, others
with flags, and the rest with nothing save ropes and chains,
were standing about waiting to take part in the promised fun.
Outside the gates were cages full of tigers, rhinoceroses, buf-
faloes, and rams. Two huge elephants were fastened to the walls
inside, about twenty painted and decorated elephants were
ranged in a line opposite the grand stand, where was assembled
a brilliant gathering of English ladies and gentlemen — ^the for-
mer in gaily coloured silks, the latter mostly in uniform — wait-
ing for the Prince. They had not long to wait, for, just after
we entered, a blast of trumpets announced his Royal Highness'

aAME8 AND 8P0BT8 AT BASODA. 87

approach, and a moment later showed the golden carriage of
the Giiicowar in full motion, with his Highness and the Prince
of Wales inside.

The first entertainment on the Hst was a wrestling match
between half a dozen couples of semi-nude muscular savages.
There was a bald man, who was evidently a very old stager;
a Kubian, whose chief aim was to hug his opponent and fall on
him, a tall man, who every now and then lifted his rival into
the air, and tried to throw him out of the square marked out
for this class of the sports ; and a short, stout man, who enjojrs
the reputation of being the best wrestler in India, and who is
very proud of the title. Two particular points are worthy of
notice — one that each athlete had greased his body so com-
pletely that it was next to impossible to grasp him ; tiie other
that the use of the feet in wrestling was wholly disregarded,
and that the French hug round the neck was the style of com-
petidon, rather than the Oumberland mode of wrestling. Pic-
ture twelve particularly strong men attempting to throttle and
throw each other ; now struggling till their eyes nearly start
out of their heads, and now rolling over and over in the thick
dust, emerging at length from the conflict begrimed and be-
smeared, and only vexed to find that they must go away and
make way for the elephants. Anything like remonstrance
would, however, have been somewhat out of place, for a number
of men were hovering round the captive elephants fastened to
the wall, the tame and decorated elephants were leaving the
ground, and all kinds of preparations were being made for a
struggle.

I rather suspect that these elephants were sly, old fellows,
who, like the gladiators in olden times, did not hurt each other
a bit more than was necessary, and often ** made believe" in a
sadly deceptive fashion. These had^learly been in the arena
before, and knew just what was expected of them. First they
rushed at each other, and with their blunted tusks pushed and

88 WITH TEE FRINGE IN INDIA.

tugged for a few moments, and then stopped. At this junotore
a Mahratta came out with a stick ; whereupon one of the ele-
phants rushed at him, chased him into one of the recesses in the
wall, and pulled a lot of the brickwork down. This diversion,
however, lasted but a minute. Entwining their trunks with
quite as much care as the wrestlers who had preceded them in
the ring had joined hands, and adjusting their tusks in sudi a
position as would give .the greatest leverage, the elephants once
more began the tug of war. And a terrible tug it was. Two
huge beasts, of almost fabulous size, straining, pushing, groan-
ing, strove for the mastery. The younger of the two elephants
was the better formed and the more courageous, and very soon
he had worsted his opponent and driven him against the wall.
No sooner had the larger but weaker elephant run to the wall
for shelter than the conqueror lowered his head, gave a roar of
defiance, and charged with terrific force. The tusk struck the
conquered one with a fearful thud, the wall and the miserable
elephant's head had a sharp collision, and a moment later the
bars of the gateway close by were on the point of being forced,
when two men ran out with rocket tubes, discharged the con-
tents at the elephants, and separated them in a moment. Away
ran the victor across the arena, followed by the vanquished one,
and for an instant there was' quiet. Immediately after another
encounter took place, and was going on merrily, when ham-
pering irons were slipped round the hind legs of the infuriated
animals by the Mahrattas employed for the purpose, stout ropes
attached thereto, more rockets discharged, and eventiudly the
animals were led into captivity.

Meanwhile a very wily old elephant was being prepared for
the arena. His business was to attempt to catch a horseman,
who, mounted on a white Arab and armed with a spear, was
already wlthin'the precin^ of the arena. For a moment or so
the huge beast walked slowly about, as though he were in his
native woods taking a gentle stroU after dinner, and not within

GAUES AifD 8P0MTS AT BABODA. 89

a hundred miles of horsemen or footmen either. But, just when
he looked most unconcerned and careless, he gave a sudden
rush, got his trunk in the saddle of the rider, and only missed
by an inch or two unhorsing the Mahratta and making him pay
for his temerity. Had that Arab steed stumbled, or had the
man lost nerve, the elephant would have ended the contest in a
very sum^iary manner.

The next contest on the list was between two huge rhinoceroses,
and, as the beasts were led in, all necks were craned forward and
all eyes strained to look at them. One had a long, sharp horn,
and was a fearM animal to behold ; the other, thickly set, had
a blunter horn, but, if possible, a more powerful back. So
soon as they were loosed, they rushed at each other with tre-
mendous determination. For a time they struggled hard to
push their respective prows into each other's necks, but to no
purposa In vain two men on each side patted their homy
sides and invited them with loud cries to continue the battle ;
their encouragement was useless. StUl one was a little afraid
of the other, for suddenly the owner of the blunted horn turned
round, and, wil^ snorts like the magnified grunts of a frightened
pig, rushed from the struggle. Onlookers held their breath, for
the keepers were not far from being run over, and consequently
crushed. But, as luck would have it, they ran away, and "live
to fight another day." More than this, men procured buckets
of water, and emptied them over the backs of the gladiators,
stroked and patted them, prodded them with long spears, and
in other ways urged them to deeds of valour. As soon as the
animals came close together again and felt each other's weapons
of war, they simultaneously snorted and scampered off, and
positively refused to fight. It was clearly a drawn battle, and
Sir Madava Rao ordered the creatures to be led away forthwith.

Then came the turn of the bufialoes; two of them were
ushered into the arena — one a young, light-coloured animal,
and one a dark beast, A perfect crowd of rapscallions accom*

6

90 I^ITE THE PEtNCE IN INDIA.

panied them to the fight, and, with spearsf, ropes, sticks, and
fists, encouraged them very considerably. The buffaloes, how*-
ever, needed very little incentive. Bushing at each other at a
tremendous pace, they struggled violently for a moment ; and
the young one was winning fast, when one of his horns broke
off 6hort, the blood spurted out, and it was foix^ed to retreat.
Away rushed the poor brute, chased by its enemy. Fortunately
the gate bars were sufficiently wide open to admit of escape, and
the vanquished, bleeding bull flew through, scattering the spec
tators in every direction, and mingling the turbans in almost
inextricable confusion. Another couple of buffaloes followed
and fought, one of them being thrown by the other, which at
once attempted to rip it open. Happily, its hoiiis were blunt,
and before it could do more than inflict a deep flesh-wound, the
beasts were separated, and another couple introduced.

This third conflict was not, however, a severe one, and it was
scarcely over before several couples of rams were introduced to
the ring. Bams with peculiarly hard heads and strong horns
have for long years been the especial pride of Baroda down to
the uproarious days of Mulhar Bao, the man now living quietly
at Madras. Some of the strongest pates ever discovered were
brought to the show, for the delight of his ladies and subjects.
Then the rams were allowed to fight till they killed each other,
the sight of blood being by no means distasteful to the gentle-
man who was accused of having attempted to kill CoL Phayre.
But more human days have dawned, and in the presence of
the Prince, at least, no very desperate encounter was allowed.
The plan of action was simply this : Two animals were brought
within about ten feet of each other and then let slip: in-
stantly with tremendous force they rushed at each other, and
their skulls met with a tremendous crash. If by this first
thud either ram was knocked down, it was at once declared
beaten and led away. Sometimes, however, victory was not so
easily decided, and it was not till after a dozen sharp blows at

GAMES AND SPOBtS AT BARODA. 91

the least that one of the rams gave in ; while in one caae a
fileepy fellow, who dearly saw no » fun in the whole proceeding,
allowed himself to be knocked over without making the
slightest resistance. Another, as though perfectlj aware of
the rules of the game, looked round for somebody to take him
away.

In this way several battles were decided, and then a long
string of men, in all kinds of singular costumes, entered — eight
leading a huge tiger, which was so encumbered with chains as
to be helpless ; one riding in a little carriage drawn by two of
the black bucks for which Baroda was so celebrated ; another
leading two white does of surpassing beauty ; a third with a
tame sloth ; and the rest, some twenty or thirty in all, carry-
ing birds' cages all filled with feathered curiosities of the rarest
descriptions. This spectacle concluded the entertainment. In
a few minutes the Prince and suite drove away, highly delighted,
and the huge crowd dispersed.

It was announced that the Prince would go out hunting
with the cheetahs next morning, and that a vast quantity
of deer had been beaten up for the sport, and that those
who desired to see the sport must be astir before even
the lark would dream of rising. The stars were, conse-
quently, the only light which such huntsmen as did not quite
belong to the Prince's party had as they drove through the
sleeping city of Baroda, its deserted bazaars and empty streets,
and along the road which leads to a country palace of the
Guicowar, boasting the euphonious name of Muckinpoora. If the
huntsmen were thus early, the cheetahs and their keepei's were
even earlier, for when the rendezvous was reached, some two
miles on the other side of the palace, away from the city, they
were found ; the cheetahs, five in number, sitting hood-winked
and tied on the top of flat, open carts, while their keepers stood
around them and stroked them. Close by were a number of bul-
lock carts, each drawn by two animals, each intended to hold

92 tFITB TEB PRINCE IN INDIA.

three people, albeit that thej had no seats whatever, but simply a
cushion on which we were Qxpected to sit cross-legged. The
Prince had a bullock cart of silver and gold, with seats in it,
and even a spring, which, considering everything, was an im-
mense concession for the Barodians to make, even to royalty.
All was thus ready very early ; but, unfortunately, the Prince
was not very punctual, and the sun had risen some height in
the heavens — a condition almost fatal to the skill of the
cheetah — ^when he arrived. Once there, a start was quickly
made ; and then, behold the following procession : A pilot cart
with three enthusiastic sportsmen in it, kneeling ; the Prince's
wagon, containing his Boyal Highness and the Duke of Suther*
land, each in Indian hunting costume, namely, the huge sun
hat, tweed coat, and white trousers, each person carrying a
rifle and a hunting knife ; five carts with cheetahs, each animal
attended by three keepers ; and about twenty small wagons,
their occupants in almost every conceivable position compatible
with the arrangement of three stout men on a square yard of
cushion in a springless vehicle passing over rough ground.

Presently, as we came into some very English-like scenery,
we espied in a wide Add, not a quarter of a mile distant,
several hundred deer quietly feeding. Kow was our time, and
the hearts of all beat high. As quietly as might be, we ap-
proached the herd, and soon came within a hundred and fifty
yards of them, when a cheetah was unheeded and let slip.
Stealthily creeping along through the grass, this terrible beast
bounded into the very centre of the deer, and for a moment it
seemed as though he must certainly capture one of the terror-
stricken, beautiful creatm*es, with such tremendous springs did
he urge the chase. But this time the deer were too/deet, and
bounded along with such wonderful rapidity that, after a chase
of two hundred yards, the savage beast sat down and waited
for the keepers to come up and hoodwink him again. Almost
immediately afterwards another herd was descried in an op

GAMES AND 8F0BT8 AT BABODA. 93

posite direction, and it was tlien resolved that we should be
divided into two parties, the one led by the Prince bearing
awaj to the left in chase of the herd that had just escaped, and
taking three cheetahs ; the other, tinder the guidance of Lord
Aylesford and Lord Charles Beresford, going to the right

That this arrangement was a good one was proved very
shortly. A mile had scarcely been traversed by either party,
when each came within easy reach of herds. Of the two, the
Prince's party was just then the more fortunate, for in the very
centre of the deer they chased were two large bucks with re-
markably fine horns, fighting with great vigour. To let the
cheetah go at these two rivals was the work of an instant ; to
catch the largest one by the neck and drag him to the ground
after a short struggle was an act which involved no great ex-
penditure of time. On the other side a beautiful doe had been
chased by a cheetah, caught by the neck, and after a sharp
struggle been brought to the ground. The sport had now begun
in earnest, and for the next two hours we were taken over ruts
as deep as ordinary ditches, over hillocks and through hedges,
sometimes almost shaken out, and in the case of one cart turned
out with a veritable capsize, letting the cheetahs slip frequently,
sometimes getting game and sometimes not. To those who
had never before seen the action of these savage animals the
sight was undoubtedly full of interest ; but, from an economical
point of view, I should say that cheetah hunting is not a sue-
oess. Li two hours and a half five cheetahs killed four bucks
and four does. Two rifies in experienced hands would have
killed forty in a like time. So, indeed, the Prince appeared to
think, for he presently left the cheetahs altogether, and went
shooting on his own account, and succeeded in getting a fine
pair of deer, the buck having horns of very satisfactory size.
After this there was breakfast at Muckinpoora, and at ni^t
the Prince dined at the mess of the 22nd Regiment^ com-
manded by the gallant and amiable Cplonel NuttaU.

94 TFITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

There were many interesting things to be noted about Bar-
oda. The palace in which Mulhar Bao perpetrated untold
wickedness ; the narrow streets^ with open sewers running on
both sides, and open troughs of bad drinking water — made
still worse by crowds of naked children who paddled therein,
and mixed mud paste with the liquid intended as the drink
of their excellent parents — not a foot from the sewers ; the
strangely built mud houses, boasting no doors, and very fre-
quently no roof either ; the hideous paintings on the outsides
of the temples, the shrines in the streets, the gates, and the
celebrated clock-tower, built in the form of a Chinese joss-
house, and painted light blue, were all worthy of a prolonged
inspection.

It was worth the journey to Baroda to see the holy men who
lived there. For Baroda, you must know, is a peculiarly reli-
gious place, and possesses more deformities and burlesques on
human nature, more unwashed fakirs, and more objectionable
devotees, than any other city of its size. It was thsre that,
not long since, a very pious person roasted the calf of his leg,
in the presence of a number of admiring Hindoos. On the road
leading to the Motee Bagh I had pointed out to me another
religious gentleman who, in addition to weai-ing for many years
a thick coating of mud, carefully renewed every morning, and
only relieved in its monotony by two or three streaks of brick-
red paint on the forehead, had lately cut off a couple of his tpes
and a finger or two, in honour of a god that looked exactly lik^
the representation of a frantic monkey with two tails and four
arms. But there was no necessity for seeking these superla-
tiv^ly good people. They turned up in every direction and
every moment. They were as numerous as the dogs in the
street, and that is saying a great deal, when it is remembered
that Baroda has more and uglier specimens of the canine breed
than even Constantinople. The sanctified tribe marched along,
^'itl^ their shrivelled arms, earless heads, mud-begrimed faces,

GAMES AND 8P0BT8 AT BABODA. 95

and long, matted hair; thej appeared at the comers of the
streets and in front of the shrines, and just when you were hop-
ing that the last of them had gone, you found them at your
elbow. Not that they wished to beg ; on the contrary, I did
not in any instance see a fakir condescend to do anything but
scowl. Blind men might ask for alms — and there were many
blind people in Baroda ; beggars might clamour for money at
the gates of the arena ; but these holy* men simply regarded us,
from the Prince downwards, with profound contempt ; for, in
addition to the luxury of being allowed to wear as little cloth-
ing as they pleased and as much mud as they liked, they had
many of them the assured right, in consideration of their suffer-
ings and virtues, to have at any moment and forever, twenty
times as much enjoyment as anybody else— the gods willed it,
and the priests declared it. Ask for alms 1 If, in admiration
of their inherent and singular goodness, you felt constrained to
press half a rupee upon their acceptance, they would doubtless
take it, for they live upon such tokens of esteem and affection.
But they would certainly not implore a gift, and if it were
offered, would return no thanks. I doubt whether a more im-
pudent set of scoundrels exists on the face of the globe. They
even escape the policeman's whip, an instrument which is ap-
plied pretty unsparingly to the rest of the populace, and which
works wonders in a crowded street, when authority and power
want to pass quickly.

But it was not of the fakirs, nor the streets, that I just now
intended to write. My intent was to speak more fully of the
palaces of Baroda and their occupants — not the old building in
which Luxmabae's baby was enthroned and dethroned, all in
the space of ten minutes, the residence of the last Guicowar, and
his agreeable circle of male and female acquaintances ; but the
two suburban palaces of Motee Bagh and Mukinpoora, and Sir
Madava Bao, the Prime Minister of Baroda.

It was at the first named mansion that I called on^y arrival

96 WITH THB FBINOB IN INDIA.

in the State. A coarteoos note from the Premier demanded
personal answer, and it was with no reluctance I faced eren the
mid-day son. It so chanced that the moment was an exception-
ally fayonrable one. The place was en/Ste for the Prince's
reception ; his Eoyal Highness was expected to drive thither
from the Besidency very shortly, and not only the hall of state,
but all the apartments were prepared. I have already spoken
of the golden howdah, the golden carriage, and the golden
bullock-gharry of Baroda. You have heard of the diamond
aigrette which adorns the Guicowar's turl^an, and the diamond
necklace which encircles his neck. Be prepared, then, for
plenty of magnificence on entering Motee Bagh. Tet look at
the same time for the tawdry and tinseL Tou will not be dis-
appointed in either. India everywhere presents the same
spectacle, and Mot^ Bagh is no exception to the rule.

As you pass through the streets an unclad imp is playing in
the dust. Tou look closely at the unkempt hair, and behold a
cap that is worth half a sovereign at the very least. The coolie
who brings or carries messages two miles for sixpence, probably
wears a rich, purple silk jacket, fit for a prince. That and a)^
excessively dirty rag complete his clothing. Tou enter the
house ci a native, and find on the rough, earthen floor a carpet
of surpassing beauty. Wares of great value are exposed for
sale in shops compared with which a bam is a mansion ; and if
you want to find a palace, your quickest and best plan is to pro-
ceed in the direction where hovels are most numerous and
streets are narrowest. So at Motee Bagh. The troops drawn
up in the garden are well dressed and well armed, yet the
sentry in the corridor is in rags and tatters, and carries an old
flint fowling-piece in his left hand. The fountains, too, are of
white marble, very beautiful basins, altogether admirable, till
you see that the jets are crookedi and will not throw more than
a cupful of water a foot high.

On your first entry into the palace itself you find in almost

GAMES AND 8P0BT8 AT BABODA. 97

every room chandeliers enough to stock a warehoase. At
Mackinpoora there were in one verandah alone, 70fl. long hj 24
wide, eighteen large chandeliers with thirtv-two lights apiece,
seventy-two bonquets of light with three jets to each, besides
other receptacle for lamps and candles. Here the lighting
arrangements have been made in the same proportions.
Yon would think you were in a shop of chandeliers and
looking glasses, and that the dark gentleman who comes up
the room to meet you intended to inveigle you into buying one
at the very least But he has no such intention. I do not
suppose he would part with a single burner on any con-
sideration. There would be a vacant space in the ceiling if he
did, and no Hindoo with any. pretence to tasto could tolerate
that. He would probably be happier than he now is, and would
possibly smile still more, if he knew how to hang a few more
chandeliers up in the saloon where the Prince will be presently
received, and into which we have just entered. Facing the
door, and with ite back turned to a large window from which a
magnificent view of the surrounding country can be obtained, is
a sofft of solid silver — legs, arms, back, all pure silver ; and on
each side of this a silver chair. Tou do not look at the other
chairs in the room, as these wholly engross your attention ; and
thus it is that, without in the least intending to be rude, you
involunterily notice that the seats of these splendid chairs and
couch are very shabby. The same story over again. You turn
round, look at the pictures on the wall, and find that, with the
exception of their frames, which are very thick and costly, they
are not worth a pound, even to a German printseller. Portraits
ai celebrated chiefs, and pictures of the Madonna and child,
three prints of '' a lady," and German-produced '' likenesses " of
the English Boyal family complete the collection. Close by, in
a cabinet carefully locked and guarded, were a tin engine and
two little trucks, such as you may purchase in the Lowther
Arcade, and in an ante-room, on a handsome marble table and

98 WITH THE FBINCE IN INDIA.

a ffllver stand, was a toj donkej wMch wagged its head when
toachedy and whioh, in any London repositorji is yalued at
ezactl J ninepence.

Still it must not be imagined that the man whom we had
come to see was in any way like the palace in which we found
him. Nothing but the severest simplicity was noticeable about
him. Excepting only the huge medal which the Prince gives to
every native of distinction, and which is about as ugly and un-
meaning a decoration as it is possible to conceive, Sir Madava
Eao wore no ornament of any kind. Like Sir Salar Jung, the
great Mahommedan Minister, he dresses in plain black or white.
On this particular occasion he wore white garments. At the first
glance I was greatly impressed by this celebrated Hindoo. His
English was perfect, lacking anything like a foreign accent.
His manner was that of a man who had seen the world rather
than of one who had never left India. And when he sat down
and began to talk, his conversation was in harmony with all
that has been said of him. The uppermost thought in his mind
appeared to be the possibility of war and the consequent speedy
return of the Prince, and he proceeded at once to discuss the
situation. The position of England, the relative strength of the
great Powers, the aims and ambitions of Eussia — ^all seemed to
be familiar to him, and for some minutes he chatted away with
all the easy flow of thought of a European statesman. From
what I have since heard. Sir Madava Jtao's theories about good
government are being carried into effect in Baroda ; and there
is, therefore reason to believe that before long the city will lose
its open sewers, and possibly some of its holy men, and become
more like a fit residence for a civilized prince.

CHAPTER Vllt

THE VOYAGE TO CEYLON.

As is well known, a painful uncertainty as to the route likely
to be followed attended the first part of the Prince's trip in
India. For nearly a^fortnight not one of the Royal suite, save
only Sir Bartle Frere, had any idea of what their future move-
ments would be. Would the Prince go to Mysore 1 No one
knew. Would he reach Madras 1 No one could tell. Would
he go to <he North-Westi Perhaps. Would he go home?
Possibly. There were rumours of cholera in the south, and
fears of war at home ; and these, coupled with the intense love
of Sir Bartle Frere for mystery, were sufficient for all parties.
So it resulted in the Prince going off to Baroda, after twenty-
four hours' notice, and next setting sail in an equally hurried
and secret fashion for Southern India, without anybody know-
ing where he was going, except one or two favoured ones.

In this way we all set sail, and were at sea fully a day before
we were told where we were going to; and when the intelligence
that possibly we should touch at Trivanderam was at length
imparted to us, the majority of us were about as wise as ever;
for, although in guide-books and gazetteers, Trivanderam was
stated to be the capital of Travancore, all that we could learn
besides was that it possessed no harbour, that ships had to
anchor in an open roadstead, and that the beach boasted a
surf such as European boats would never resist for a moment
— ^with which pleasant and comfortable knowledge we beguiled
the time while the voyage lasted. It now appears that had we
been learned in astronomical lore we should have known that at
Trivanderam there was erected, forty years ago, an observatory

1. h^. c/^a^Oyf^^

100 WITR THB PBINCE IN INDIA.

of no mean importance, with transit clocks and instraments,
telescopes, refractors, and reflectors, and that it had since then
been allowed to fall into disuse and dilapidation. But we were
not astronomically inclined, and, with the exception of now and
then straining our eyes in search of the Southern Cross, which,
after all, never appeared, cared no more for observatories and
telescopes than the present Bajah of Travancore does. Beyond
this, too, it seems that had we been well instructed in heraldry,
and knowing in things pertaining to ceremonies and chapters,
we should have been aware that the Kajah who built the obser-
vatory was the same sensible and liberal-minded potentate who,
in 1851, presented to the Queen the ivory chair in which she
would sit were she to hold a Chapter of the Garter at Windsor.
This knowledge, however, came too late, all that could be
gathered was that game of all kinds abounded in the Eajah's
territory ; that the Prince wanted a little shooting, and that it
was to be got in the neighbourhood of Trivanderam.

It was early on a Saturday morning when, by nautical calcu-
ation, an inspection of the shore, and consideration of the
charts, we were judged to be opposite the long-looked for place.
Now, naval men are far from averse to going on shore. Their
ship is undoubtedly their home ; they take great pride in her,
from masthead to keelson ; but give a jungle-full of tigers, and
a plain full of bison, the prospect of a good day's sport, and a
good dinner, and the most ardent sailor will begin to buiiiish
his express rifle, fill up the cartridge-case, and prepare to lan^
Gradually Trivanderam was approached, and then was seen the
beauty of this southern part of India. Our glasses made out
that the inhabitants of this favoured land were actually enjoy-
ing a shower of rain. What would we not have given for a
shower just then, with the thermometer in the shade at 94 deg.,
and no breeze 1 Pleasant, doubtless, is the bright Indian sun,
pleasant the clear, blue sky and the grand expanse of purple-
coloured sea ; pleasant also an escape from the November fogs of

THE VOYAGE TO iSBX^LqS.r^/'y

London, the chill j, wintry blasts, and the aU-perrading mud ;
but, di, for one hour of pelting, soaking rain ! I don't beHeve
a man would have raised an umbrella. To be drenched to the
skin would have been a positive luxury. However, we did not
land at Trivanderam, and we consequently got none of the rain.
How provokingly near we came to the land I Cables were
ready, the town could be distinctly made out, the observatory
with its sightless old telescope and the residence of a Bajah,
long groves of palm-trees, little fishing boats, and, at the back
of all, towering mountains, round the heads of which clouds
whirled madly, as though the wind, rushing through the crevices
in the rock, was throwing them at each other for the sheer fun
of the thing. There was clearly a pleasant breeze ashore, what-
ever we lacked at sea. Still, it must not be supposed that the
water was still. We could see thesurf beating madly on the
strand, and our ships rolled about on the swell, till we had to
hold on l)y both hands to avoid being capsized. It was a warn-
ing what to expect if we cast anchor, and apparently the
Admiral took it, for, with a good deal of sail on, to catch what
little wind there might be, we steamed away souths and pre-
sently left Trivanderam behind us.

On we went, hugging the shore and marvelling at its beauty.
Bich, tropical vegetation covered the plain right down to the
seashora Palm, plantain, mango, and banian crowded together
in one vast jungle. Nor was this splendid foliage confined to
the plain. Far up the sides of the towering mountains, it
formed a rich, green covering, under which game of all kinds
might repose, and the natives qf the place be happy. If the
peaks of the hills were bare rocks, showing terrible precipices,
the lower portions of the eminences were, at any rate, covered
by a grateful shade. And every now and then some pretty, little
village or lonely Portuguese church would peep out from the
trees, or a little fleet of fishing boats would come from the
shore. Then we would come in view of a red coital reef^ or

some well-marked place on the chart, such as Moottam Point,
with its sandy face and bleak, bare top, till at length we were
off Cape Comorin, tbe Land's-end of India, and by the declining
light of the fast disappearing son, gazed with awe upon the
huge, white rock and the far-stretching shoal. We had not
landed at Trivanderam, but such an excursion to the extreme
point of Southern India had well-nigh made up for all our dis<
appointment.

Meanwhile, the Prince had landed at Qos^ the Portuguesij
settlement, and the place whence come all the Poi*tuguese ser-
vants who make life a burden to the traveller. You heartily
wish tbem at Goa, or indeed anywhere else, a hundred times a
day ; yet they are indispensable. In such a climate, and with
such a system as prevails in India, you must, wherever you go,
take your own servants, or you will get nothing to eat, nothing
to drink, and will lose your luggage. Then comes the question,
What kind of sei'vant is best 1 The native of MiEidras is a pro-
verbial rascal, and I am able to say, without prejudice, that he
deserves his character. The Hindoo is a perpetual bother in
travelling, for he can only eat in a certain way, at a certain
time, and cannot go to sea. As for the Mohammedan, the ex-
perience of an Englishman out here speaks volumes. Temper-
provoking, crafty, troublesome, full of excuses for laziness, and
frequently dishonest, you are in constant danger of being pro-
voked to use your cane upon them, in which case the chances
are that you will be fined by a local magistrate, and have your
name published in the newspapers. Such being the case, you
are driven to employ the inhabitant of Goa, partly because
he speaks English fairly, partly for the reason that he washes
himself occasionally, and can upon a pinch present an appear-
ance bordering upon respectability, though that is not often ;
and partly also because he distinctly understands the inadvis-
ableness of stealing your clothes, and confines his operations to
cheating you out of small sums in paying your bills — an achieve- ,

THE VOYAGE TO CEYLON. 103

mont which affords him infinite satisfaction, and is possibly less
annoying to the victim than are the vagaries of the native
servant.

There are many ways of decorating a place, but the most
original method I ever witnessed was adopted at Baroda. It
was getting dark in the evening on which the Prince was to
drive through the native town when I passed over the bridge
that led to the railway station. Across the bridge was a tri-
umphal arch of palm leaves ; on both parapets oil lamps had
been placed in such a fashion as to illuminate the road very
grandly. But it was neither the arch nor the lamps that sur-
prised me. There was nothing very extraordinary in the
arrangement of the foliage or the situation of the lamps. Nor
was the bridge itself worthy of any great attention. On that
bridge, however, was a sight to be witnessed which I had not
seen before. The decorators were manufacturing angels. It
has probably not been the fortune of many among the British
public to see the youths of Baroda. They are mostly Hindoos,
who never wander from home j and just as they do not go to
the outer world, so the outer world yerj seldom goes to them.
I may therefore mention, by way of information, that a Baroda
boy is one of the most ill-favoured in the land. He has a face
like a Hottentot, arms like a chimpanzee, a dark-brown skin,
and bloodshot eyes. Anything less angelic it is impossible to
conceive. Yet it was out of material Uke this that the Gui-
cowar's decorators were making angels.

Two ideas were prominent in the mind of Sir Madava Kao's
decorators ; first, that his angels must be white ; next, that
they; must have wings. Whether he had read of Pope Gregory
and the Saxon slaves, or had borrowed his ideas from Milton, I
do not know. There was a society that Hood wrote about,
which, finding that it was impossible to rub negroes white,
determined to gild them ; but the Baroda artist was far cleverer.
With a huge pot of whitewash and a collection of properties

104 I^ITH TBB PmUfCE IN liifDIA.

which would have done credit to the store-room of a London
theatre, he set to work furiouslj. Ten boys were fixed at
different points of the bridge, and the position known in the
amyr as " eyes right" once obtained, the angel-maker proceeded.
With a great brush, such as is used by bill-stickers in Ix)ndon,
this ingenious man whitened each young Barodian from top to
toe. Then to white cords passed round their breasts he attached
golden wings of the most approved pattern. On their half«
shaven crowns he fixed long, flowing, auburn wigs, and sur-
mounted this piece of decoration with gilt coronets; in each
hand he placed a long white wand, and the picture was com-
pleta You need not be told the result ; how in the flickering
glare of the lamps these angels more closely resembled white-
washed imps than seraphim ; how now and then some mx;hin
more mischievous than the rest would take off his locks and ex-
pose a bald, black pate ; or how, as he passed by, the Prince
was thrown into convulsions of laughter. I only mention the
incident to give you an idea of the pitfalls into which native
decorators are apt to stumble when to their care is confided the
beautifying of a place.

Mr. Gregory, the excellent Governor of Ceylon, had fortun-
ately no such helpers, and in spite of the extraordinary difficul-
ties he experienced, fast turned the beautiful city of Colombo
into fairyland. I believe it was Bishop Heber who remarked
that in Ceylon " Every prospect pleases, and only man is vile."
About the villainy of Cingalese man I cannot say much. He is
not good-looking ; he wears long hair done up in a chignon at
the back, with a tortoise-shell comb to keep it off his forehead j
he chews more betel nut than the Hindoo of the mainland; he
delights in a long, bright-coloured petticoat, and, unless he is a
Mohammedan, wears no turban ; but whether he is vile or not,
I cannot say. The Cingalese cabman knows well that you must
ride when the thermometer is 100 deg. in the shade, and he is
a trifle exorbitant^ almost as much so as his London cousiii

!FHE voyage to CEYLOlt. loS

would be under similar circumstances ; but that is not villainy,
it is human nature. Yet I will not quarrel with the writer of
the hymn. He is right as to the prospect ; the men may take
care of themselves.

Ceylon is certainly a lovely island. "We descried — ^when a long
way at sea — a land of orange and cinnamon groves ; a land of
the date and the bread-fruit ; where plantains have the largest
leaves, the banyan tree most foliage, where the palm spreads
widest, and lovely singing-birds are most numerous. For,
doubly-favoured isle, it has the rain of the Temperate Zone in-
termingled with the heat of the Tropics. The ground is con-
tinually fertilised, the plants and trees see the sun always ; the
spice-laden air is full of richness, and the surrounding sea makes
night cool and refreshing. Colombo from the sea is a fine
picture of architectural beauty in a deep setting of green.
Vistas of pleasant retreats and leafy shades, of a wide beach
and handsome buildings, meet us at every turn. And when
we landed we found the view from the distance excelled by the
sight which a closer inspection gave us. Truly it was a wonder-
ful place to which we had come.

With such natural advantages and so energetic and loyal a
Grovemor as Mr. Gregory, what might not have been made of
Ceylon on the occasion of the Prince's visit 1 I am afraid to
say what orders were given by the Decoration Committee, and
what arrangements were made for utilizing the natural beauty
of Ceylon. All that was wanted was that the time should be
specified, or, failing that, sufficient notice to allow of an altera-
tion in the plans. Yet, strange to say, the gentlemen who
managed, or rather mismanaged, ijie Prince's tour, although
they knew perfectly well more than a fortnight ago that the
Neilgherry trip was impossible in consequence of cholera, failed
to make the fact known to the Council at Ceylon, and, indeed,
only mentioned that the visit of the Prince would take place
earlier than at first arranged. Foi*tunately, His Excellency the

7

106 ^ITH THE PBINCB IN INDIA,

Governor did not resent this cavalier treatment^ as less amiable
and sensible men might have done, but addressed himself to the
task of preparing to receive the Prince. The result was mag-
nificent. Triumphal arches— one of which, close by the land-
ing-place, is a marvdl of skill, erected in the form of a castle
and pavilion — sprang up as though by magic. The Queen's
House— for so the Governor's residence is called — was ready for
the Prince ; the fleet was in the offing ; and all that was want-
ing was the " Serapis," with het Boyal traveller.

Within an hour of landing at Ceylon I learned from the
Governor that England had practically become owner of the
Suez Canal ; and as the notes of one who but lately passed to
the East by way of this wonderful route may be of interest, I
venture to give my own experiences of the canal. I do not
propose to set down a single figure ; my talk shall be of the
manners and customs of the peo|>le who inhaHt the region and
the canal itself.

I do not think that at Port Said, the point where the canal
begins, the ordinary Englishman would find much to please
him. I have been told that after a soldier has passed the regu-
lation year at Perim, he looks upon Aden as the Garden of
Eden. A man would have to live a long while in a very bad
place before he regarded Port Said in any such light. There
is a railway which somebody began a long time ago ; but which
nobody, apparently, proposes to finish. There is a dockyard
which is a model of disorder. I believe that the Arab popula-
tion, which fortunately lives by itself, is the most rascally in
the world, and I am sure that the streets in the native quarter
more than vie, in point of uncleanliness, with the worst parts
of Alexandria. I was in cliarge of a guide, and as I traversed
the lanes and alleys of the town, took his opinion of his fellow-
citizens. " The people," he remarked, " very great blackguards
indeed. Best you not come ashore, sar, night-time. Arabs like
to see gentlemen with watch and chain in streets at night-time

THE VOYAGE TO CEYLON. 107

very much. Plenty murders here, sar." " But," I rejoined,
" are the thieves not punished 1" " Oh yes, sar," was the reply ;
"they beaten on the feet every day, but they not care a bit."
My informant was not far wrong, for we had hardly gone a
hundred yards when we came upon one of the residents of Port
Said undergoing at that moment the penalty of the bastinado
for some malpractice or other. Temporarily, I should judge,
from the grimaces he made, that he objected to the punishment
most seriously, but, practically, I expect, he did not " care a
bit," as his loquacious countryman said. Why should he, for-
sooth ) The pain of the bamboo cane once over, but little in-
ducement to good influences the native. Everything runs riot
in Port Said. The Grovernment roads, as distinct from the
Canal Company's roads, are almost impassable. The streets
are full of dogs, donkeys, pigs — ^why do Mohammedans keep
pigs ? — and children. The heat is fierce ; the sand is blinding ;
crime is rife, and punishment is irregular. What can an Arab
gain by being good at Port Said ]

Leaving, then, this delectable spot, let us go on board the
steamer, and, passing through a gate-like entrance, begin our
voyage down the canal. Several ideas strike you at once. First,
that the canal is very narrow ; secondly, that the distance is
measured by English miles and not French metres; thirdly,
that there is a continual succession of mirages, so that phantom
lakes of delicious aspect surround you, and thickly foliaged
trees, to your mistaken vision, cover the desolate plane. I say
nothing of the sandfly, which exceeds the mosquito in power
of jaw and activity of wing, or of the melting sun. The latter
you find everywhere in the East; the former is absolutely
welcome in place of the pestering fly of Alexandria and Port
Said. You move along very slowly, making not more than
about ^VQ miles an hour, and this gives you the opportunity to
notice several curious facts. One is that the constiniction of
the canal has brought with it here and there something; akin to

108 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

what we are aocostomed to call vegetation. There are occa-
sional patches of green on the banks, and at some of the stations
or landing places on the canal, out of which trimly-dressed
French officials emerge as you pass by, there are little groves
of trees. These are but of recent growth, and some one near
tells you that they are fostered by heavy dews, which now fall
frequently, and rain which before "was not known in Egypt
We have good proof of this at nightfall, when we anchor off
Ismailia. There we see a grand expanse of water, a lai^e,
natural lake, and you are wondering whether the pilot cannot
be induced to take you on by moonlight, when a thick fog falls,
and all hope of moving on is stopped, not only for tha night,
but for the greater part of the next day too.

Nothing more is needed to prove that the climate is rapidly
altering, and that in the process of time the desert may, liter-
ally as well as figuratively, " rejoice and blossom as the rose."
Indeed, at Ismailia there is already much rejoicing and much
blossoming too. There are public gardens of no ordinary
beauty, long groves of young trees, luxuriant hedges, and fruit-
ful fields. Ismailia is by no means a town to be despised, as
its well-built houses and grand summer palace testify. And if
anything were wanting to prove its great respectability, it is
the fact that all its donkeys are named after the statesmen and
military celebrities of Europe. Napoleon, Alfonso, King Wil-
liam, Moltke, Francis Joseph, and Gkiribaldi, were all waiting
at the jetty ready saddled when we landed. I chose Bismark —
a grizzled donkey of great strength, and, looking back on that
moonlight ride, I am bound to say that he outstripped all com-
petitors, and carried off honours both as a racer and as a kicker.
Let the great of Europe know that their highest honour in
Ismailia is to have a donkey named after them,

Ismailia is about halfway down the canal, and supposing the
fog to clear away before midday, you ought to arrive at Suez hy
night. This is, however, by no means certain, even in thesi

THE VOYAGE TO CEYLON. 109

days of steam. Every now and again some slight taming
occurs, and then the chances are th^t, unless directed by a very
skilful pilot and a good crew, the ship will run aground. A'
variety of entertaining incidents follow. You may be asked to
leave the vessel in company with the rest of the passengei*s,
and so lighten the ship — a diversion by no means to be desired,
as it involves the chance of your having to sit upon the hot
sand for some hours, while the sailors are exerting themselves
to move their unwieldy vessel Or you may be allowed to stop
on board, but required to dispense with the awning which alone
makes life bearable in the desert; and, worse than all, be deaf-
ened for hours by a badly-working, clattering donkey engine
and windlass, which almost invariably for the first fifty attempts
to grasp the cable — ^which is attached to a post ashore, and
which, if properly gripped, would pull the vessel round, — ^lets it
slip at the very moment when a well-sustained pull would put
everything right. If you get through the Canal with less than
a couple of such experiences, you will be very fortunate. The
'' Serapis'' went aground for a short time, and so has inmost
every%essel of considerable tonnage that I have heard of.
Occasionally the blades of the screw are lost in the attempt to
move the ship, as was the case with the ** Sumatra" some time
back ; or perhaps the ship has to stop for twelve hours till the
tide lifts her, so that it is by no means certain that if you leave
Ismailia in the morning you will see Suez before night. Still,
if you have good fortune, and can avoid the bad places in the
Canal, you may go along quicker even than that, especially
through what are called the Bitter Lakes, where ten knots an
hour, or even more, may be made. In, this wa/ you go along,
through some of the most uninviting scenery in the world —
arid desert, only now and then relieved by the little patches of
vegetation which have recently sprung up, an occasional mir-
age, a flock of birds, and now and then a party of Arabs with
their camels^ their wives, and their chidren, sometimes with

110 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

merchandise and sometimes not, bat always ineffably dirty and
excessively wild. They are more frequently to be seen at the
little boat bridges, which are pished at certain points at one
spot They claim absolute right of way, having enjoyed the
proprietorship of a road to the East from Egypt ever sinoe
Abraham roamed about with his camels and goods*

I wiU not attempt to describe at length the landing of the
Prince in Ceylon. One or two pictures presented themselves,
and these I will give you.

I have before remarked on the adaptability of the palm leaf
for purposes of ornamentation. Perhaps it may be argued
that in a place so full of foliage as Colombo floral decoration
was needless. But given that triumphal arches are an ortho-
dox expression of loyalty, Colopibo outvied Bombay itself. It
is the home of fruits, as well as flowers. The mango is richer,
the pine-apple finer, and the cocoanut more plentiful here than
anywhere besides. It was therefore with little astonishment
that I saw pyramids of fruit eight feet high surrounding the
bases of arches, fruit hanging in great clusters all along the
line of loute, and fruit on the arches themselves. Pray €o not
imagine that what we in England know as a triumphal arch
was to be seen in Ceylon. Here were lightness and strength,
but nothing solid or heavy. Thin bamboos strongly tied
together till an arch not three inches thick, but fully seventy
feet high and as many feet broad, was raised, might well excite
wonder in a mind unused to such sights. Then, when all kinds
of fruit were hung from the supports in rich clusters — the
bright yellow and red of the young cocoanuts contrasting with
the green plantains and mangoes, the bread fruit, and the
areca nut — an arch was made which needed no inscription to
tell its meaning, though the native Christians of Colombo had
made it, and thought fit to say so.

Yet, lest there should be sameness, the ingenious gentleman
to whom the decorations of Colombo were confided bethought

THB VOYAGE TO CEYLON. m

him of something new^ and as Ceylon is not only a great
fruit store and conservatory of grandly painted flowers, but also
the home of the elephant, he made arches of effigies of these
magnificent creatures, arches of elephants composed of canvas
and rich Oriental blosscnns, arches representing the king of
Ceylon beasts entwining trunks and tusks, and upraising their
heads in order to let the Prince pass under. Tou never lost
sight of the elephant in Ceylon. True that he was not in the
streets, as in Baroda, or even in the suburbs, as in Hyderabad,
but the effigy was everywhere. We saw ebony elephants on
drawing-room tables, golden elephants on the collars of officials,
painted elephants on banners, brass elephants on Qovemment
stamps, and the first thing that the Prince set eyes on when
he landed at Colombo were two black images of elephants with
eyes like tea-saucers, and long, black trunks grasping cocoanuts
firmly. There were other classes of ai-ches, however. Towers
were light — so light, indeed, that a man might almost have
walked away with a whole archway easily — semi-circular
arches, square arches, and arches of a pattern which I have
never seen before, sprang up everywhere. The materials were
certainly close at hand ; it was but the transfer of the branches
and leaves from the trees on the roadside to the arches ; but
for all that the artistic beauty of the structures was greatly to
be admired, and Mr. Gregory's island looked its very best.

I will not trouble you with the addresses of the Executive
Council, or the Municipal Council, nor even with the reply of
the Prince. First of all, because from the place in which I
stood I heard nothing ; secondly, because they are stereotyped;
you have had their purport already, and their only merit was
that they were very short. I believe the good gentlen^an who
compiled the Cingalese eloquence was thrown from his carriage
and severely bruised an hour afterwards. He has, however, for
consolation the knowledge that a grateful people praise his skill
in condensing the local welcome into a few very choice words.

The great feature of the Colombo arrival, however, was the

112 fFJTH THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

display on the water. Eoyal processions, on entering fresh
places, are pretty much the same everywhera The aides-de-
camp of the Resident Croyemor walk first, three abreast, and
very upright indeed. The Prince follows by the side of the
Governor, bowing first on this side and then on that, and smil<»
ing very graciously. The suite come next, in something very
like disorderly array, and a number of local magnates bring up
the rear of the procession. It is the same at every capital, and
needs no special description. Perhaps the fact that the native
gentlemen wore chignons and semicircular combs in their hair,
long petticoats, and low shoes, might add something to the in-
terest of the scene ; perhaps also the appearance of sundry old
gentlemen, who were adorned with great discs of gold, given
them as rewards for good behaviour, by successive Governors,
broad bands of gold lace, and golden daggers, should be described.
The readiness with which one of them, a very high functionary
indeed, with an excessively ugly face, and an exceedingly pretty
coat, stood to be sketched, showed that he, at any rate, thought
himself worthy of especial notice, and the admiring nods of his
friends testified to their approval.

But, after all, triumphal arches, curiously attired natives,
and even the Boyal procession itself, were by no means the
things to be most carefully noticed. The scene on the water
was the most extraordimkry sight. There were funny old peo-
ple who had engaged drum-and-fife bands, to play in their
barges, loyal tunes in various keys. There were young ladies
who dressed like old men, and old men, who dressed like young
ladies, seated under the canopies of foliage, and placidly wait-
ing for the Prince, who kept them for five houi-s, owing to
unforeseen accidents, and to the foolish miscalculations of his
suite. Yet there was nothing but goodwill and loyalty. The
cheers which accompanied the salute from the fleet and the fort
were full of hearty good-humour, and it is a question whether
anjrwhere else the Prince met more gladsome people, or people
saw a more gratified Prince,

CHAPTER IX.

CINGALESE FAIBT LAND.

On the journey to Kandy, I saw what I believe to be the
prettiest spectacle in the world. Before the vivid impression it
has made upon my mind dies away let me strive to depict it.

" You have seen nothing till you have been to Kandy," said
the Governor of. Ceylon — hospitable Mr. Gregory — as we sat
and discussed the visit of the Prince. " It is the loveliest place
in creation, and when you have seen it you will say so," added
his Excellency. It was, therefore, with no little expectation
that I looked forward to my trip to Kandy. Everything
tended to make that expectation greater. Coffee-planters
praised the decoration of Colombo, but recommended Kandy as
a place needing neither ornamentation nor beautifying. In-
habitants of the port themselves, while proud of the city, yet
point to Kandy as the summwm honum of civic excellence
Kandy must be a pretty place, or no more faith could be placed
in the word of man. Seven o'clock in the morning was fixed
for the hour of our departure into the interior, so that we had
the best part of the day before us. A shady sky, too, favoured
the travellers, who would otherwise have been half-roasted,
crowded together as we were, before the six hours' journey was
a thing of the past. At length we started, and then a panorama
of surpassing beauty, which never closed for a moment till we
reached our destination, and still surrounds us whichever way
we look, opened before us. It is vain for me to attempt to
describe the landscape of Ceylon. Bring together the grandeur
of Alpine lands, the mellow beauty of Swiss scenery where the
lake of Lucerne looks prettiest ; add to the sketch admirably

114 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

cultivated fields of grain, and fill the picture with the luxuriant
foliage of th%tropics, and you have a faint idea of the lovely
scene through which we passed.

It is a great privilege to see Adam's Peak. When first I
looked at it we were fifty miles from Ceylon, in half a gale, on
our beam-ends. Still, trying as was the tossing of the ship, and
doleful as looked the inky sky, with its afterwards fulfilled
promise of storm and lightning, there was the summit bearing
the footprint of Buddha, to look upon which is as meritorious
an act for a Buddhist as a journey to Mecca is for a follower of
the Prophet. For aught we could tell to the contrary, the
print of that wonderful foot might be on the very side of the
mountain upon which we were gazing. All Oriental persuasions
revere the phenomenon. Ask a Mohammedan, and he will tell
you that the huge mark was the footprint of Adam ; enquire of
a Chinese, and he will award the honour of possessing the
largest pedal appanage in the world— it is five feet long — ^to
Fo. Portuguese writers have quarrelled from time immemorial
over the conflicting claims of St. Thomas and the Eunuch of
Candace to this mark on the rock ; the Brahmins have every
reason to be perfectly sure that Shiva's toes effected the imprint ;
while Moses of Chorene — a very sad man, who ought to be
remembered with much reprobation — said the footprint was that
of Satan himself, and not of a saint at alL

While on the journey to Kandy we had plenty of time to con-
sider all this. Adam's Peak stood out against the sky ever so
many miles away, and formed the centrepiece in the background
of the picture. Round its elevated head the clouds played, yet
ever and anon the summit would be lit up by the sun's rays,
the sharp peak glittered as brightly as though it were incandes-
cent. Among the things we had been told to expect was a
thrill of excitement at what is most appropriately known as
Sensation Rock. Have you ever looked into the interior of the
crater of Yesuvius, sat in the train as it passes on the edge of

CINGALESE FAIRY LAND. 115

the precipice which overhangs the light green lake Neuchatel ;
walked on the ledge which joins the Capel Curig and the Bedd-
gellert ascent of Snowdon ; passed along the line which leads
to the Mont C^nis tunnel; looked down the Bighi ascent;
gone to the edge of any one of the chasms which abound on
Mount PilatuSy or looked down the precipices over which jou
pass when you go over the Bhore Ghauts on the road from Bom-
bay to Poena t If so, you can estimate the grandeur of the
sight from Sensation £,ock when you learn that it far exceeds
in terrible magnificence any and all of these.

Moreover, you are not looking down upon a flinty surface of
barren rock. On the contrary, nowhere else is vegetation so
abundant. You are full of wonder as you see the myriads of
trees and flowers which cover the ground. Scarcely a fruit or
a leaf that belongs to tropical climes i& missing. Were you to
fall over the edge into the abyss below, you would never reach
the eJM^th. Palms, mangoes, plantains, banyans, bread-fruit
trees, arecornut plants, the interlacing arms of convolvuli, trum-
pet-flowers, huge ferns, and a hundred other exuberant members
of the vegetable world would catch you. You would be killed,
for a fall of five hundred feet upon the softest of couches would
be deadly. But you expire upon a bed of unequalled beauty,
with roses for your pillow and palms for your coverlet. Every
moment the scene changed, too, in this wonderful trip. Coflee
plantations climbing the hills would be seen, then the striated
surface of land cultivated for rice, next thick jungle with
scarcely an open space of a foot wide to be distinguished, then
the mountain scenery, with its precipices, and afterwards a
flower-producing district of surpassing beauty. In this way the
six hours flew pleasantly by, till at length we reached Kandy
and found it all we expected.

Kandy railway station presented altogether a novel sight to
the Prince and those who accompanied him. All at once we
found ourselves in a new land. The people belong to a differ-

116 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

ent type and race ; the sc^iery was different — everytliing was
strange except the palm-leaf decorations, which I have admired
so much before. I will not stay to speak of the flags and the
other matters — suffice it to say that the station, without a single
person in it, would still have looked very pretty. But the great
sight was the assemblage. Away outside, on the sides of the
high hills which shut the town in like a little amphitheatre,
were small knots of gaily dressed people under the shade of
trees, the bright red and white dresses pleasantly contrasting
with the varied hues of light and deep, dark green, and on a
slope inside the town, close to the station, thousands of sight-
seers had taken up a position. All along the road on both sides
were very extraordinary persons ; they were called "headmen,"
and wore something peculiar, greatly resembling a square pin
cushion, on their heads. Note that it was not this gear from-
which they derive their title. Their business is to control dis-
tricts under the management of superior officers. If you
chanced to be a Cingalese — and you could not find a lovelier
home — you would be registered by a headman directly you were
bom ; your arrival at the age of fifteen — a date which renders
you liable for military service— would be chronicled by the
headman ; to a headman you would go when you wished to be
married, and to a headman your relatives would go when they
wanted to bury you. Such were the men who lined the road
by which the Prince was to travel when he left the station.
They led the way to the pretty triumphal arches circled by the
town ; they pointed to the beautiful trophy with a revolving
minaret erected by a Mussulman grandee, which, when the
Prince arrived, sent out a golden canopy resting upon wires
fixed high in the air, in such fashion that it overshadowed the
canopy of the Prince till he came in front of Government
House.

But to return to the inside of the station. The most prom-
inent object for the Prince's inspection^ was a party of Veddahs

CINGALBSB FAIRY LAND. 117

advantageously placed on the top of a cattle truck. Here were
the veritable, wild men of the jungle — eight in number — ^with
their equally veritable, wild women. The Cingalese looked at
them in mute astonishment. Even they had never seen such
savages before. Miserable skeletons with long matted hair —
oi^e of them, an elderly and toothless person, resembled a ship's
mop more nearly than anything else I can think of — ^with great,
rolling eyes, almost naked bodies, grasping their bows and
arrows and looking round nervously as though they would
jump off the truck and dart away, these Veddahs crouched to-
gether and glared like wild beasts. They had been brought
down from the hills in the Eastern province for the Prince to
see, and they were a strange company to behold. Next day I
saw them once more, and the result %f my observation you shall
presently have. Just below them stood the 57th Regiment,
under the command of Colonel Logan, all in white dresses, and
wearing white helmets. Then a number of gentlemen with
doubtfully fitting dress coats, stood grouped together, the
Municipal Council of the city of Kandy. But these were by
no means the conspicuous portion of the gathering. Have you
ever heard of the old Kandyan Chiefs, the grand old men who
still hold the drums captured from Major Davie's force when
they beat the English down to the gates of Colombo, and ex-
tended their independence for twelve years 1 If so, let me say
that they are now the most loyal subjects of the Queen, that
one of them has confeiTod great favours upon Kandy, and that
they are now as contented as they were once troublesome.
Still, had they been dressed in the costume of Europeans, they
might not have attracted so much attention, certainly they
would not have added so greatly to the interest of the scene.
They came down in their most resplendent robes, with the pin-
cushion cap, richly embroidered and crowned in the centre by
an aigrette of emeralds, pearls, sapphires, and rubies, long white
dresses and drawers, marvellously worked, and gilded jackets^

118 WITU THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

and broad gold laco bands round their waists. And there thi^y
stood, in two groups, on each side of the carpet along which
the Prince would pass, ready to give him a Kandjan welcome.
Behind them again were some Buddhist priests, with dirty
shaven heads and long yellow robes ; the people, the horses and
carriages did the rest. The Prince was enthusiastically re-
ceived, he spoke to the chiefs, entered the carriage^ and drove
away up to the town to the music of bands and the shouts of
the i>eople.

CHAPTEK X.

KANDYAK CURIOSITIES.

From the daj when I first read ^'Man^airs Questioiu^*'
and trembled lest I should forget their answers when I stood
before my tutor and the desk in which I knew a particularly
thick cane was hidden, I have understood that the Buddhists
had eccentric ideas. But until the day I yisited Kandy I did
not know that they could be half so eccentric as I now find
them to be.

It had been announced that a Perahera would be held in the
evening in front of the Pavilion or Government House, in
which the Prince temporarily stays. What a Perahera was it
was not easy to learn. That it was a religious procession, and
had something to do with very religious elephants was well-
known, but, for the rest, my own very imperfect knowledge of
the elegant language called Tamil, and the ignorance of English
displayed by my informant, conveyed very little information.
It was, therefore, with some slight degree of curiosity that I
took my place in the garden of the Government House, and
waited for the fete. I had seen sacred — ^very sacred — bulls,
monkeys, and goats at Bombay, but as yet it had not fallen to
my lot to see sacred elephants. The gardens of the Pavilion
are equally beautiful with the rest of Kandy. Leaves of all
shades, flowers of all sorts, surround a very pretty mansion. A
• fine portico with very wide steps and grandly-designed pillars
opens upon a broa<l pathway. It was in this pathway, close by
the portico, where, about ten o'clock in the evening, the seats
for the few privileged spectators of the Peraheran sacred proces-
sion were placed. A somewhat similar spectacle was promised
to the people for the morrow* This was to be a very select and

120 tVITH THE PtaNC^ lit tIfMA.

private pcrfonnance. Looking down the pathway, which was
purposely very dimly lighted by a few Chinese lanterns, you
saw at the far extremity a great blaze of torches and lamps.
An inordinately inquisitiye person would probably have gone
at once to the gate, and dissolved the spell of mystery which
overhung the proceedings. But those who were wise took the
Governor's advice and waited on either side of the Prince till a
signal was given and the glare and flare of the torches came
nearer. It was then clear that an extraordinary spectacle had
been prepared by the Buddhist priests as a token of extreme
favour to the Prince of Wales. For there were the chiefs of
the temples, the custodians of the sacred tooth of Buddha, with
their elephants, banners, and insignia of priestcraft, attended
by their dancers and tom-tom beaters, and accompanied by the
Kandyan chieftains whom we saw at the station.

To those who have not heard religious tom-toms played by
religious men, it is difficult to convey the sensation which we,
who were not used to such a noise, experienced. Twenty very
large tom-toms, beaten with very large sticks by very strong
fists, made the attack. In advancing upon us the players had
considerable advantages. They wore very little clothing, so
that their sinewy arms were quite unencumbered ; they were
celebrated for the clatter they could make, and had been incited
to excel themselves on this occasion ; then they had to aid them
a beautiful echo, which vastly increased the din ; and, lastly,
they were allowed to come as close as they pleased, I do not
complain that my ear-drums tingled — I do not think anybody
dreamt of mentioning the ear in connection with that terrible
noise. Long before the tom-toms and their beaters had taken
up a good position the sound had penetrated far beyond the ear,
and was preying upon the vitals of the half-stunned English-
men ; it struck upon the cavity of the chest, it descended to the
pit of the stomach, the ear gave up resistance as useless, and let
the sound fly all over the body till we absolutely quivered*

KANBYAN CURIOSITIES, 121

While tills noise was going on, there emerged from the pro-
cession about a dozen of the ugliest young men we had yet
seen. They were plentifully ornamented with strings of pearls
and spangles ; on their ankles, wrists and necks were little cym-
bals, which made a rattling, clinking sound, which, therefore,
would introduce a new element of misery to listeners, had not
the tom-tom players been by this time exhausted and obliged
to play with considerably less vigour. The twelve men began
to dance, while the torches were held round in order that they
might see where to jump. For jumping would be a better de-
scription of their exercises than any other word. First they
would spring forward and then they would fly back, then twirl
round on their heels, shake their cymbals, strike the little
tom-toms which they carried under their arms, and utter a yelL
As a savage performance it, no doubt, had its merits, but when
it had been repeated a dozen times the Prince had had enough
of it, and they were ordered to move on.

Next to them came a long string of elephants, ridden by
priests, and very gaudily dressed. I had good reason to know
that the first rider was chief of a temple, for during the after-
noon I had wandered into the interior of a shrine on the assur-
ance that my presence would not be objected to, when that old
gentleman rushed in, threw off his long yellow robe, and per-
formed a dance roimd me very similar to that which the jump-
ing twelve had favoured the Prince with. A dignified retreat
became advisable, as the priest was being imitated by some of
his assistants, and their rage was rapidly increasing. I had,
therefore, as I backed out of the temple, keeping my face to-
wards my assailants, good opportunity for noticing the linea-
ments of that fierce priest's face, and hence my recognition of
him when the elephants went by. Somehow or other, to his
evident chagrin, nobody else seemed to know him, however,
and the three first elephants were allowed to pass by almost
unnoticed. The fourth was a particularly fine animal, and as

8

122 WITH THE FEINCE IN INDIA.

ho approached, the Prince held out a tempting piece of sugar-
cane, upon which the lojal creature dutifully knelt, conveyed
the cane to his mouth, and then, thoughtfully, held out his trunk
for more. He got more cane, but not quite of the kind he hoped
for; it was a stroke from a malacca, admonishing him to get up
and make room for another. That other was not far behind ;
indeed, he was down on his knees, holding out his trunk, before
the Prince could give him a handful of plantain. But his
energy was rewarded — ^he received the fruit, and made off with
it as rapidly as possible. After this fashion about a dozen
elephants were treated, and then the Kandyan chiefs whom we
had seen in the afternoon came up in a body, preceded by their
banners and sword-bearers, made a low obeisance to the Prince
and passed on.

In this way the procession continued without flagging. The
dancers varied in costume, and in manner of performance ; the
elephants had their own idiosyncrasies : some preferred sugar-
cane, some chose plantains, some refused to move till they
received both. Then the dancers, as they sprang out of the
surrounding gloom into the glare of light, had their eccentrici-
ties. There was one who insisted on turning somersaults till
he got too giddy to turn any more, and had to be led away.
There were a dozen with conical caps made of strips of brass,
who danced till they had to be removed. There were tom-tom
beaters, too, who played and jumped and jumped and played
till Mr. Gr^ory could bear with them no longer, and they were
chased away ; aud there were even dancing torch-bearers, whose
gyrations were both fearful and wonderfuL Little need for
wonder was there that a tiny elephant, unused to such a clatter,
made a shrill, trumpeting noise with his trunk, rushed at the
gateway, and vainly attempted to dance too — ^in this instance, a
fandango on the body of a native. For two hours the din con-
tinued, the enormous procession having apparently no end.
But at last it was over. The Prince retired, and Kandy went
to sleep.

K ANDY AN CURIOSITIES. 123

Tlie knigliting of Mr. Gregory, now Sir William Gr^ory,
K.C.M.G., and the exhibition of the sacred tooth of Buddha,
are two events which will long be' remembered in Kandy. To
a Buddhist the description of the tooth and its surroundings
would be most important, for great advantages come to the
fortunate man who looks upon that sacred relic and lives. To
a loyal Englishman the investiture ceremony would be of para-
mount importance. Let us be loyal, and look into the audience-
chamber of the old palace, where already, an hour before the
announced time, all society in Kandy is assembled.

No insignificant building is that in which we find ourselves.
A large oblong apartment, with a richly-carved ceiling, sup-
ported by magnificent columns of teak, having a broad space
in the centre, colonnades on each side, and at one end a raised
dais. On the daius are a throne of crimson velvet for the Prince,
and an armchair for the Governor. Flags hang from the walls,
floral decorations are plentiful; the English ladies and gentle-
men who are ranged in tiers inside the colonnades are bril-
liantly attired in evening dress and uniforms. A guard of
honour holds the approaches to the dais; the apartment is
resplendently lighted; only one fault is noticeable — ^the Prince
will face the south when presently he sits in Dunbar, the sad-
dest omen of danger that the Cingalese know. Why did not
some well-instructed person teU his Royal Highness that a
King of Kandy, or an Heir Apparent to this mountainous
realm, should always face the north when on the throne 1 In-
side the centre space, to the right of the dtos, was a scene which
has seldom before been witnessed. A nimiber of Kandy ladies,
dressed in white, and beautifully decorated with jewels, are
seated in a long row, ready to welcome the Princa You look
at them, and see at once that they are high-caste ladies of no
mean birth. The conclusion is right; these grand-looking
dames are no less than the wives of the chiefs of Kandy, come
for the especial purpose of seeing their lords wait upon his

124 WITH THE FBINCE IN INDIA.

Royal Higlmess. While we are regarding all this a stir is
noticeable outside. A band, which is stationed between two
lines of artificial elephants, strike up the National Anthem,
and instantly the Prince, loudly cheered, enters the hall, accom-
panied by the Gtovemw and suite, and ascends the dais. The
officers group themselves behind, the audience settles down, and
nothing is heard but the faint cheering of the crowds outside.
It is a marvel that that is heard. For a tropical storm has
burst over Kandy. The lightning is flashing, the rain is de-
scending in torrents, the illuminations which but a few moments
before made Kandy brilliant, from the tops of the mountains,
TV'here bonfires blazed, to the island in the lake which occupies
the centre of the city, and was resplendent with Chinese lamps,
are fast going out. But we must leave the people outside, for
the chiefs are passing along the hall, not on all fours, but erect
and proud, conscious of their dignity, and fiilly equal to the
exigencies of the occasion. Five abreast, with those extraordi-
nary hats of theirs on their heads, they approach slowly, and
then, as their names are severally announced, bow, and retire*
Not for long, however. A few minutes later, they return, bear-
ing in their hands a huge, silver casket, of exquisite workman-
ship, containing all kinds of silver instruments, for the enjoy-
ment of the betel nut. With great grace they present this,
and with equal grace it is received. Th^i they file off once
more, and leave the space in front of the dais vacant.

Just now the Governor is seen to leave his place, at the left
of the Prince, and, in a mysterious fashion, pass down the hall
by one of the corridors. There is, simultaneously with this
movement, a procession forming at the far end of the room. It
advances slowly, and then we see that Mr. Gregory is advancing
towards the dais, followed by Mr. Douglas, the Auditor-(>ene-
ral ; Mr. Birtch, the Colonial Secretary ; and the rest of his
Excellency's suite. Everybody stands up, Mr. Gregory makes
It profound bow to the Prince, who at once begins a i^ort ad-

KANDYAN CURIOSITIES. 126

dress, which is to the purport that the Queen, reeogniziiig the
many merits of her right, trusty councillor, the Governor, has
resolved on making him a Elnight Commander of the Most
Illustrious Order of St. Michael and St. George ; that he (the
Prince) has been commanded to confer the honour, and that it
was with peculiar pleasure that he did so. Then a gentleman,
with a roll of paper in his hand, steps forward and reads a
patent, which tells how that, on the 3rd of December, the
Queen was pleased to direct that William Gregory should be
distinguished ; and next, a document directing the Prince to
carry out the patent ; whereupon Lord Charles Beresford un-
sheathes a sword and hands it to his Royal Highness. Mr.
Gregory kneels down, and the Prince, touching him on both
shoulders, says, " Rise, Sir William Gregory 1" and, as the
newly-made knight gets up, shakes hands with him. I need
not give the exact text of the address the Prince delivered. It
was complimentary to the Knight, to his suite, to his province.
Nor need I trouble you with the words in which Mr. Gregory
expressed his thanks. Suf&ce it to say, that they were few,
well chosen, and loyal. Sir William will always value the
Order, but most of all because it has been presented him by the
Prince. Then the Governor has to read the time-honoured
document, which promises, in case of promotion, degradation, or
death, Sir William, his heirs, or assigns, will duly return the
glittering star, which the Prince has just clasped round his neck;
and then, with another shake of the Royal hand, and another
bow to the Royal throne, he reascends the dais, and takes his
seat once more by the side of the Prince. Without much loss
of time, the Prince now decorates two members of the Council
with the dignity of C.M.G., leaves the platform, advances to
the wives of the chieftains, shakes hands with them all, and
then, followed by his suite, makes for the Buddhist Temple,
and Buddha's tooth.

It was fortunate that the temple was witliin the precincts of

126 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

the palace, for the storm continned, and the rain fell fast. We,
however, were happily able to pass by a covered way into the
sacred building through the serried ranks of hundreds of Bud-
dhist priests, all dad in yellow silk robes, a fine array of proud
men, with their closely shaven beards and their bared right
arms. They did not bow, for a Buddhist priest knows of none
greater thau himself save Buddha ; but their welcome seemed
none the less hearty. On we went through the sacred corridor,
up the sacred steps, into the sacred shrine itself, where the high
priest stood ready to welcome the Prince. There were eight
priests and twenty Englishmen crowded into a little room
about eight feet square, which, brightly lighted and heavily
hung with drapery, combined to form a very " warm comer"
indeed. However, his Royal Highness with great good humour
accommodated himself to circumstances, and, refusing to listen
to the suggestion of one of his underlings that all save one
or two should quit the apartment, waited for the production of
the sacred tootL

It was not to be exhibited in a hurry, however, without due
ceremony, or indeed, without some respect for our nerves. So
he first of all produced some pretty jewellery, next some chains,
a great quantity of precious stones, and then a large bell-shaped
casket of silver, richly ornamented with gems and chains.
Baisirg this very slowly, he exposed another carandua, simi-
larly wrought and similarly ornamented, then another and
another, each enclosed within the preceding. We looked with
some surprise at our Buddhist friends, and wondered whether
after e^l the tooth was there. But, at last a little gold casket was
reached, beautifully ornamented with rubies, sapphires, and
diamonds, and %lieik it became evident that the last box had
been reached. Besides, too, the priest had now taken the box
in his hands, and was slowly raising the lid. How necks were
craned forward and eyes strained to catch the first glimpse o£
this relic of Gotama Buddha. At la»b it burst into view, and

BUDDBIBT PBI18T8 SXaiBITlHa QnOOHiL*8 TOOTH TO THB PBINOB AT KAMOY.

KANDYAN CURIOSITIES. 127

we were in possession of all the good which those gain who are
fortnnate to see the mortal remains of a god. I am bound to
admit that it was large enough to satisfy anybody, and, more
than ih&ty to say that if Gotama Buddha ever did have such a
* tooth as that in his head, he might fairly claim to be excused
from all responsibility for anything he said or did. What we
saw was a huge piece of ivory, about two inches and a half long,
and about half an inch in diameter, rising slowly to a smoothly
rounded cone, reposing on a gold lotus leaf!

After this we were shown the largest emerald in the world,
a huge gem three or four inches long and nearly two inches
deep, in the form of a likeness of Buddha. Of its value the
priests could say nothing ; but there was little doubt that it
was real, the Prince very shrewdly remarking that the Bud-
dhists were too good judges to be deceived in such a matter ;
then an anklet which used to be worn by the Kings of Kandy,
and a number of other jewels, amongst them a great sapphire
as large as a walnut, very richly set. This concluded the ex-
hibition, whereupon the Prince presented the priests with two
handsomely-bound dictionaries, promised to hear a part of their
scriptures read presently, and also to receive as a present a
copy of their sacred books. This done, his Hoyal Highness
quitted the shrine, which was once more closed and jealously
guarded. So much for the tooth for which one of the Kings of
Siam offered a million sterling. Next day, when I visited the
temple, hundreds of eager Buddhists were crowding into the
sacred room. They had brought offerings of money, of cloth,
of beeds and ornaments ; one carried a great bottle of eau-de-
Cologne as a gift, another had brought a picture. In the cor-
ridors of the temple were some dozens of men and women with
plates full of beautiful flowers, which they sold as offerings to
Buddah ; and altogether a strange scene of chaffering, bargain-
ing, crowding, giving, and worshipping was witnessed.

The ceremony of hearing' the words of Buddha was to take

128 WITH THE PBINCE IN INDIA.

place in the Octagon^ a tower also belonging to the palace where
the Kings of Kandj w^:^ wtmt to view their onbjects. It is
an eight-sided room, with an open vorandah. Seated here, the
Prince could look down upon the Esplanade, a green square
near . the centre of the town, and see the people massed in
thousands waking to see his Boyal Highness, «nd waiting to
see, moreover, ijke public Perahera, or Procession of Elephants,
a private r^earsal of which we had attended on the previous
evening. It was not long in taking place. Some priests
entered, bearing two rolls of manuscript, whkh were presented
to the Prince in return for the dictionaries, a selected reading
was gone through, there were smiles, congratulations, and a
parting. Then looking out of the verandah upon the Esplanade,
through the heavy rain whidi still fell, the Pnnoe waited ihe
procession <^ elephants. There is no doubt that die sight would
have been as pretty and as effective as was the rehearsal, had
not the rain spoilt everything. Down it came, piitting out
torches and lamps and Chinese lanterns alike, making the very
elephants so miserable ihat some of them refused to trumpet
with their trunks when they went past the Octagon, a breach
of manners which would oUierwise never have entered the head
of a well-bred elephant. Still the people stood patiently till
the procession had passed and Ihe Prince had ^one, wh^i they
slowly separated, though dr^iched to the skin by the dismal
rain. Next morning the Prince went away to the far interior
to shoot elephants.

Here it was that his Royal Highness met with the only
accident of his trip ; and after this fashion. It is universally
conceded that no htiman being can by any possibility be in two
places at once. Let me, therefore, while delaying to chronicle
the adventures of the Prince in the forests of Ceylon, recount
first of all what befell the Duke of Sutherland, Lord Alfred
Paget, Lord Carington, and one or two others of the Prince's
suite who lefb Colombo for Neuralia, and so parted company

KANDYAN CURIOSITIES. 129

with Ilk Boyal Higliness for a day or twa To do tbis it must
first' of all be understood that Keuralia is a hill station, blessed
with a climate very similar to that of England, produdng all
the fruits and flowers that we love best at home, while at the
same time it has many blossoms and trees of which we in Eng-
land see nothing. More than that, its woods abound with game
of all kinds; the elk is plentiful, bison and buf^o abound,
cheetahs, too, and panthers, to say nothing of the great guana
-—a lizard of gigantic proportions, which runs at you, opens its
great mouth, and if report be true, bites like a young alligator
— snakes, and leeches. Then there are floods which swamp
the country ; so that perils wait the huntsman by water as well
as by land. You may be strangled by a boa, eaten by a panther,
or drowned by a stream at any moment— excitement enough for
anybody. It was to this pleasant district that part of the
Prince's suite went.

I wish I could picture to you the country through which they
passed ; high hiUs covered with ooflee-plants, plains of paddy
(or rice) fields, thick jungle in which the lentana, the palm,
plantain, and other plants are found — a vegetable thicket only
to be found in the zone of the tropics. It must not be supposed
that the Prince's party travelled thither on foot. On the con-
trary, an appointed carriage — ^an omnibus in size— conveyed
them to the place where Sir William Gregory spends a fourth
<^ the year, as Governor of the island. Thence the trip was of
a more sportsmanlike chiuracter. Quitting Neuralia early in the
morning, the party proceeded, partly on horseback and partly
on foot, to the place where sport was expected. At length an
estate belonging to an hospitable planter named Denning was
reached, and here a pack of deer-hounds was found. Without
more ado these were soon taken out, and as quickly were in full
cry. Through the jungle, round by paths marked by travellers,
over hills and across valleys, the elk was pursued, till at length
it was caught by one of the foot-hunters who pursued the game

130 fVITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

armed with long knives for the purpose of killing it should the
dogs fail. They had been exceedingly useful in this instance.
The elk was found to be stabbed and dead, and with this, as
rain was falling heavily, the party returned to Neuralia, and
next day rejoined his Eoyal Highness.

The news that the Prince had met with an accident created
some consternation in Colombo. Intelligence of that kind
looses nothing by travelling, and it was soon stated most
positively that the Prince had had a very narrow escape, that
the carriage in which he rode had been broken to pieces on the
very edge of a precipice, that he was picked up out of the
relics of the vehicle in much the same manner as a cask of flour
is removed from a wreck; and that altogether the "catastrophe"
was one of the most serious description. I at once telegraphed
home to the effect that all this was an exaggeration. The facts
were these : the Prince having spent a Sunday at Ruanwella,
advanced on the Monday morning to a kind of platform in the
jungle, close to which it was reported a party of seven elephants
were hidden. Amongst them was a "rogue" — ^that is, a
peculiarly vicious tusker — whose charging propensities were
already well known to hunters in Ceylon ; and it was hoped
that the savage animal would fall a victim to the Prince's rifle.
To ensure this, if possible, a number of beaters were sent out
to drive the elephants past the croVs-nest on which the Prince
was stationed. But it was all to no purpose ; the elephants
refused to take part in the fun, and, after waiting for three or
four hours, the Prince was as far from shooting the "tusker"
as ever. At last wiser counsels prevailed, and the Prince, des-
cending from his waiting place, entered the jungle, accompanied
by two good shots of colonial celebrity. Presently the Prince
got sight of an elephant, fired, and brought him down ; the
beast was, however, only wounded, for he got up, and went off
almost immediately afterwards, with great ease. Another
chance of sport offered itself, however, almost directly, and thi«

KANDYAN OUmOSITIES. 131

time it was Buccessful; a fine large elephant was shot, and
his tail secured as a trophy for his Boyal Highness. One or
two more were wounded later on, and then the party prepared
to return. Returning, however, from a shooting expedition in
Ceylon, is not always an easy, or, indeed, practicable feat, and
the Prince, in the return journey from Kuanwella was unfor-
tunate. The night was dark, fireflies and the tenches of natives,
stationed at various intervals, were the only lights to be seen,
when at a sharp comer about five miles from the scene of the
shooting a piece of bad ground was found. It is not an easy
thing to drive " Csesar and all his fortunes.** The Grovemor's
coachman lost his head, and upset the vehicle. Over it went
with a crash, but so complete was the somersault that no one
in the carriage was hurt. The Prince was safe, though covered
with dSbris, Lord Charles Beresford, the hero of the Poena acci-
dent, crawled out unhurt, and an aide-de-camp who was one
of the party was not inconvenienced. By the light of torches
the elephant's tail, the Prince's trophy, was discovered amid
much merriment. His Boyal Highness took his seat in a spare
carriage, and proceeded at once on his journey to Colombo,
being so little incommoded by his misadventure as to hold a
lev6e in the afternoon, visit the Horticultural Gardens later in
the day, and attend a Stato dinner and State ball in the
evening.

CHAPTER XL

THE VBDDAHS OF CEYLOK.

Who id it thafc eays « Yeddab cannot smile) If it be Mr.
Hartshome, as an indignant and personal friend of the Yeddahs
told me, let him hear of the following incident.

The Prince had hardly left the railway station, and his fol-
lowers had scarcely done struggling for carriages, when a
Cingalese clergyman, by name the Bey. D. Somanader, court-
eously enquired if I would like to make the acquaintance of
the savages on the top of the railway trucks 1 I had read Mr.
Hartshome's story with too much interest to hesitate for one
moment, and I at once invited the whole of the Yeddahs to a
breakfast in the gard^i adjoining my apartments. Seven
o'clock was the ^our appointed, and, true to the minute, the
eight gentlemen and threes ladies composing the party, attended
by Mr. Somanader and a clergyman of the district, named
Coles, entered the garden.

The breakfast of a Yeddah is not a serious business. Yery
often it consists of plenty of fresh air, a drink of water, and a
long walk. Our cuisine was an improvement on this. We
had green cocoa-nuts, plantains, some rice, and a Httle curry.
Yo« must know that the Yeddah likes meat as well as fruit. In
his native home he enjoys a roasted monkey or a toasted lizard
(the guana) exceedingly, and would not mind at any time eat-
ing a piece of venison, if fortune chances flo to favour him.
When the fickle goddess is not kind, he goes without flesh
meat, or, like the flying ant of the island, eats anything he can
get short of iron. The appearance of the cocoa-nuts ^delighted
our guests, and they proceeded to partake of this first course

THE VEDDAH8 OF CEYLON.^ 133

with as much gusta as a London goiimiand tastes his turtle and
punch. It is always a joy to a Yeddah to get a good meal. If
in talking to him — always supposing, on the principle of the
old cookery books, that you can first csCtch your Yeddah, and
next, that when you have caiight him, you can understand his
pleasant language — ^you suggest exertion of any kind, he is
courteous but firm upon one subject. Before he works he must
eat, and he will point to an empty stomach at once to indicate
this to you. This peculiarity was aooordingly met by the pro-
vision we had made, and it was the business of the Yeddahs to
make the most of the opportunity. Taking the hatchet kind
of hammers they carry in their waist-cloth, they knelt down
and cut through the fibrous oovering of the nut, through the
hard shell also, and so reached the kernel, which they pushed
into their mouths as rapidly as possibla I thought I detected
a smile on the face of one shock-headed old gentleman, without
teeth^ wh^i he found that his nut was one of undoubted good-
ness. But it was needless to look just then — ^he laughed heart-
ily presently, as you shall know. As for the young ladies, a
very tender nut, some plantains, and bread were handed to each
of them. Th^ consumed nearly the whole at once, and handed
dyer the fragments to a thoughtful-looking male friend, who,
without regard for anybody who might chance to be hear, took
off his waist-cloth, and, wrapping up the surplus eatables' there-
in, replaced it in such a fashion that, had he been a European
lady instead of a Yeddah savage, the articles in question would
have constituted an excellent dress-improver. Then the party
adjourned into a comer to cook the rice we had given them,
which enabled me to make enquiries of their guardian, and
Mr. OoleSy as to their manners and customs.

The party in Kandy were taken purposely from a very sav-
age hill tribe, and only persuaded to come down by very con-
raderaUe gifts of money, and ornaments for the women. Each
of the girk had from twenty to thirty silver rin^ on her

134 ^^TH TEE PRINCE IN INDIA.

fingers, besides rings on her ankles, and arms, given her before
she started : and of these treasures they were all very proud.
I have spoken of their food; let me tell of their marriage cus-
toms. Living in huts, which can be built in an hour, and
making their cooking utensils mainly from the leaves of trees,
the household arrangements of the Yeddahs are not such as to
call for any serious preparation. When a young mi^ falls in
love with {k maiden, he first of all obtains her consent, and th^i
waits upon her parents, who only demand that he shall present
theii* daughter with a piece of cloth. He assents, the cloth is
produced, the lovers.become husband and wife at once, and re-
main so. There is no religious ceremony, for of religion the
Yeddah has no idea. The only supernatural being of .;which he
has any notion is a devil, which, by the way,'is a very respect-
able sort of fiend, indeed, and not at all so implacable and bad
as our Western Beelzebub. The Yeddah's demon is really
only a misguided person, who is fond of mischief; and when,
therefore, anybody falls ill, his friends get some jaggery, or
native sugar, a little piece of cocoa-nut, and any other luxury
which circumstances permit of, and, placing it on a leaf, dance
round it till they think the Satanic anger is appeased.

Breakfast over, the Yeddahs were summoned to shoot. So
much has been said about their skill with the bow and arrow,
that we were careful to watch their powers very narrowly.
We placed a leaf about ten inches long by six square upon a
bamboo, about thirty yards from the place where they stood,
and then invited them to shoot. Two arrows were sped at
once ; the first shot of the shock-headed old man went clean
through the leaf; the second, discharged by a thin man wiih
long hair, struck the bamboo and knooked it down. It was
clear that the target was too close for such marksmen, and we
removed it to nearly double the distance, when the shooting
began again. In all about twenty arrows were fired ;• scarcely
one fell six inches from the target, most of them either went

TEE VEVDAES OF CEYLON. % 135

through the leaf or touched it ; a man at the distance would
have been struck by eighteen arrows at least. When a marks-
man made a particularly good shot there was a shout of con-
gratulation ; when a bad shot was made the archer looked at
his bow with anger and adjusted the string with great care.
The lliin man — why call one thin when all were skeletons % —
was most successful, and won a rupee ; the gentleman with the
vagrant locks came next, and received threepence. As for the
rupee^ I am bound to say it was received as a matter of coui'se
— seized with ungrateful avidity; but the threepenny-piece
was clearly a matter of surprise. A second prize evidently
entered into nobody's calculation. I suspect that when a race
for a plump monkey takes place, the rule is, Eclipse first, and
the rest nowhere — the fortunate person who gets the monkey
eats it all, and his friends look on. . Anyhow, the two-anna
« piece was a tiurprise. The recipient turned it over twice — it
was a new coin and glittered in his dirty palm very enticingly.
In an instant he popped it into the rag encircling his waist, and
then refuted Mr. Hartshome by laughing. Yes, there could be
no mistake about it — ^the Yeddah had got something to laugh
for. An unexpected threepenny-piece was all gain — he could
well afifbrd to be merry. Nor let it be thought that he was
not a pure wild man. He was the typical man of the party,
with more hair, fewer teeth, and less clothing than any of them
— ^a magnificent hand at eating green cocoa-nuts, and a great
lover of some bitter red bark, which he placed between his gums
occasionally, and mumbled with great pleasure.

The shooting over, and this jocular Veddah having sat for
his portrait, a dance was proposed and agreed to, on the exhi-
bition of a few rupees, which were subscribed for the purpose.
You must not suppose for a moment that the ladies - danced.
Still, the part they took in the ceremony was one that aston-
ished ma We were under the shade of some plantains ; a cool,
quiet nook, covered by leaves. Five of the men formed a kind

136 WITH THE PBINCE IN INDIA.

of circle ; three stood at l^e side ; the women took up a position
a little way off. Till then I had not had an opportunity of
looking fully at them ; but now I noted that although they
were very thin, their countenances were bright, their eyes
bright, their carriage almost as erect as that <^ the Mahratta
women of Bombay, and their skin several shades lighter than
the men's. They were of a distinctly different type from the
Cingalese, not having a single feature oi resemblance; but
although undoubtedly savages oi a low order, they were ndther
repulsive nor indeed ugly. The three men struck up a soi^ ;
the five began a singular dance whidi consisted in a h(^ on
one 1^ and a bob of the head — ^altogether something both novel
and funny. Just then I looked up, and the Yeddah women
were actually laughing — laughing and hiding their fietces, too,
as though they were bashful. What could it all mean t A
bashful Yeddah lady is, if I mistake not, altogether unmen-
tioned by Mr. Hartshome, and was^quite unlooked for by ma
But the secret was soon explained. Those sad dogs of Yeddahs,
those gay young men from the hills, were singing a love song,
with some questionable passages in it, and the girls ware laugh-
ing. So far as the faces of the men, dancers and singers alike,^
were concerned, no confirmation of this could be gained, for
from the low monotonous chant and the savage dance I could
learn nothing. Tet I have no doubt that the reverend guardian
of these savages was right, and that Yeddah humanity & very
like other humanitv all the world over*

CHAPTEE Xn.

TBB 8A0BBD TOOTH.

It was myfortone to obtain a second glance at Buddlia*8 tooth,
under somewhat singular circumstances.

Some years ago, when the funds of the temple became low,
and it was necessary to raise money for the crowd of priests
who live in Kandy, the' tooth was exposed to the view of pil-
grims for three weeks, and a good round sum was obtained.
Those who gave much enjoyed a prolonged stare, smaller donors
were allowed to look and move on, whilst the rest, whose offer-
ings were insignificant, but who were admitted on the old prin-
ciple that '' mony a mickle maks a muckle," were hurried past.
It had been expected, that the tooth would be exhibited now for
a similarly long period, and the faithful in the country were
gathering up their skirts and girding themselyes for a pilgrim-
age to Kandy, when suddenly the Dewee Nilemee, a kind of
Dean of the Temple, issued a notice that the relic would be put
away, and at the same time invited me to witness its restora-
tion to its place. I had before imagined that the room to which
the Prince of Wales had been admitted was the ordinary shrine
of the relic, and at first hesitated to obey the summons ; but
deliberation resulted in a change of intention, and I repaired to
the temple.

To reach the room to which I was told the relic had been
conveyed it was necessary to go to the side of the temple, and
thence by a narrow and dimly-lighted stone staircase, jealously
guarded by priests, into a small square ante-room. As I entered
the door of the apartment I noticed that it was covered with
beaten gold, that the posts were composed of an outer strip ot
finely-carved wood, then a strip of ebony, next a strip of carved

9

138 WITH THE FBINCE IN INDIA.

ivory, and after that one of embossed silver, the inner strip of
all, namely, that next the door, being of gold. Passing under
a curtain which was now lifted, I entered the room and found
myself in the company of about twenty priests, all guarding
very jealously the inner apartment of all. It was clear that I
had arrived at the resting-place of the relic, else what could
mean the sliding iron-barred gate, which, being drawn back,
showed a golden door with ornamental posts, exactly like those
I have already mentioned ) A heavy curtain, howev^, pre-
vented my looking through the doorway, and three or four
stout Cingalese prevented my further progress. It was possible
that I might have to turn back afber all, for the priests gave
me looks that could not be called affectionate, and muttered in
their unpleasant language remarks the reverse of complimen-
tary. I was wondering whether the purchase of a plateful of
flowers which stood on a table would be of service, whether I
should drop some money into an iron grating close to the door,
evidently the receptacle of offerings, and so try the effect of
benevolence, or whether I should retreat, when the Dewee
Kilemee's face appeared in the doorway, and I was admitted
into the sacred chamber.

The room I was now in was scarcely more than six feet
square and nine high. The'ceiling was heavily hung with wliat
had once been yellow silk, now discoloured and. almost black.
The walls were bare ; there were two other doors — on the right,
and on the left — both fastened, and I could discover no window
and no means of ventilation whatever. Facing the door, on the
step of which I stood, was a square iron cage, raised three feet
from the ground and reaching to the ceiling. The floor of the
cage was of beaten silver. In the centre of the floor was a huge
silver gilt bell-like structure, beautifully embossed, more than
four feet high, and at the base nearly three feet in diameter.
On a silver table in front of this cage were all the jewels we
had seen exhibited on Friday night to the Prince; some half-

THM 8A0BED TOOTH. 139

dozen golden pagodas, the receptacles for these treasures, were
there also, and nine priests were preparing, under the super-
vision of the Dewee Nilemee, to put all away. There laj, also,
the sacred tooth on the golden lotus leaf, ready to be placed in
^e largest pagoda of all. Eight or ten lighted wax candles,
some in stands and some in the hands of the priests, added to
the almost unbearable heat of the apartment, in which thirteen
or fourteen people were crowded together. With great ceremony
the little golden casket containing the tooth was dosed by the
high priest, his brethren of the golden robe raising their hands
in pious attitude the while. The largest pagoda was then
opened, and all the innw cases I had previously seen were taken
out and opened. - One by one they received the relic, only now
each was wrapped in muslin as it was placed in the next
largest case There seemed occasionally to be especial care to
arrange the musHn in a certain way. Everything was clearly
done according to rule, and those shaven yellow-robed priests
were determined to do their work well. A curious sight it was
to see them bending over the relic, the guttering candles in
their hand, while the Dewoee Nilemee jealously watched the
gradual swathing of the treasure. Case after case received it,
more muslin was handed up whenever wanted, till at last it was
ready for the golden pagoda. Then it finally disappeared from
view, a gdden k^ was produced, the pagoda was locked, and for
the present placed on one side.

I wish I ocmld fully describe that pagoda. It must be of
great value, for it is of pure gold, is very heavy, and nearly two
feet high. From the umbrella or topmost story of the pagoda,
hang chains which support splendid jewels, catseyes nearly an
inch in diameter, a sapphire quite as large, besides diamonds
and rubies ; but only an actual sketch in bright colours can
convey to the eye an adequate idea of its beauty.

The next treasure to be similarly wrapped in muslin and put
away was the emerald Buddha, which was also placed in a

140 WITH TEB FBINOB IN INDIA.

pagoda, somewliat smaller thongli qtiite as pretty. There were
the anklet and one piece of open gold filagree work, heavily set
with diamonds and other stones, to go into another pagoda^ and
then the great sapphire we saw an evening or two ago. Each
was wrapped up carefully, each hidden under the closest super-
vision, and of each due account was taken by the Dewee
Kilemee. At length the two high-priests climbed up into the
cage, and proceeded to lift the top of the bell from its place.
They were strong men, but the effort needed was a great one,
and it was some little time before the massive piece of gilded
silver was taken up. So soon as it was done, however, one of
the priests knelt, and, handing out some more muslin, produced
at length a silver bd-tree, a bag full of little golden images of
Buddha^ some chains, studs, and, in fact, about as miscellaneous
a collection of jewellery as you would find in a West^nd shop.
Out it came by handfiils, to be counted by the Dewee Nilemee,
and given into the custody of the priests, who placed the articles
in the remaining pagodaa But an end will come to the pro-
duction of treasures, be they never so many, and an end came
to these ; the pagodas were full, and it now only remained to
wrap them all in thick folds of muslin. This done, the receptacle
of the book was lifted up by the high priests, a deep obeisance
was made, and then it was placed in the centre bell-shaped case.
One after another the rest of the pagodas were placed round it,
the silver b6-tree following last of all ; and, when this had been
achieved, and the number duly counted, the priests lifted the
silver top once more, and with a supreme effort got it into
position. The Dewee Nilemee, with evident pride, produced a
large gold key, and locked the huge casket.

This was not all, however. A band of thin iron was now
brought, and entwined round the bell in such a way that, with
the aid of a small padlock which was attached to it, entrance
to ^e bell was most effectually prevented ; and, the padlock
being fastened, some more muslin was brought, wrapped over

THB 8ACBBD TOOTH. 141

the locky and sealed with the Dewee Nilemee's seal, beaiing a
golden dodo, and his name in Gingaleea A gold umbrella fiom
i^hich chains and jewels hong was fixed on the top of the bell,
ornamental pieces were added to it, till at length it stood out in
the centre of the cage, a glittering pagoda, ready for the worship
of all who yisit the shrine and are allowed for a consideration
to peer through the bars at the resting-place of the tooth. The
barred gate haying been drawn and fastened by a key in custody
of <me of the high priests, the candles were put out^ and we,
perspiring and &inty emerged into the outer room, saw the
door locked, the second grating fastened, and a watch appointed
to guard the treasure. The relic of Buddha had been safely
consigned to its shrintii

1.

CHAPTER XIIL

▲ WEAK IK MADRAS.

In the room wbere I sat to write this there was the engraved
portrait of a very extraordinary old man. His face wore the
most complete expression of idiotic joy that could possibly be
infused into any countenance. Underneath was the following
inscription: '' Eajah of EajahS; Rajah Ohundoo Lai, Maharajah
Bahadoor, the devoted servant of Asuf Jah ; who is the Roostom
of his Age, the Aristotle of his Time, the Conqueror of Countries,
the Administrator of States, the Governor of Realms." Exhib-
ited almost anywhere else, that grin depicted on Bahadoor's
face would be almost incomprehensible. But, with the fair
view of the wide-spreading sea shore, the pleasant champaign,
and ^e grand city of Madras, I could understand why the
" Roostum of his Age " felt very happy. If then, the ownership
of the fields, the strand, and the streets of Madras made this
ancient Ruler gleeful, how proud should the Duke of Bucking-
ham, modem administrator of more than the " Governor of
Realms '* ever ruled over, be to-day! Since the Maharajah
has departed, Madras has increased in stateliness and beauty.
Palaces are everywhere, broad parks and sheltered walks have
been added to what was already a grand city, till the place
which the Prince of Wales entered is as proud a capital as may
be wished for.

Since the mainland was reached at Tuticorin the panorama
which passed before us of landscapes, cities, and people was
singularly changeful. I do not refer to an extraordinary
passage which it was the fate of the special correspondents of
the London press to make in the Ceylon Qovemment steamer

A WEEK IN MADEAS. U3

" K'agotna.'* Far be it from my purpose to excite the risibility
of those who sent us to sea in a small flat-bottomed steamer,
160 tons in measurement, in one of the worst gales ever ex-
perienced in the Gulf pf Manaar. How we were thrown from
side to side of the creaking, helpless oraft ; how the captain,
with a look that Dickens' ever-memorable Bunsby might have
envied, admitted, on the second night, that he did not know
where he wa»; how we arrived at Tuticorin just as his Boyal
Highness had lefb for Madura ; and how, to gain a sight of his
reception at Trichinopoly, we had to avail ourselves for twelve
miles of such accommodation as a bullock-van whirled along by
a special and very powerful engine over a very rough, because
newly-inade, road afforded, need not be dilated upon. Suffice it
to say that we did not experience that keen enjoyment which a
passage by sea and a run through one (^ the most delightful
parts of Southern India would otherwise have afforded.

In my recollection, however, there is a curious spectade,
illustrative of the manner in which the old and the new eras
come continually into contact in this strangely conservative
land. Look at it for a moment, and compare it with the spec-
tacle of the Prince of Wales' entry into Madras. The locale is
the railway station at I^chinopoly. A great crowd of natives
are on the platform; there is an English guard of soldiers;
outside are half-a-dozen camels heavily laden with luggage; both
in and out of the station are some singularly-attired sepoys in
the pay of the Princess of Tanjore. These sepoys have huge
chimney-pot hats, clumsily-painted, black, old match-locks, green
coats, no trousers, and a few have boots. The band which
accompanies them has the funniest collection of old brass instru-
ments, tom-toms, and pipes. They are all on the tiptoe of ex-
pectation, and drawn up in as good order as their notions of
drill will permit. Suddenly a train runs into the station with
a centre saloon carriage, through the open windows of which
may be seen a chieftain richly dressed and ornamented with

144 WITH THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

jewelS; and two little boys. At the sight of the train a number
of native officials emerge from a room on the platform, and
come forward with heads bent low, as though about to seek
audience of some very distinguished personage. The door of
the saloon carriage thereupon opens, and the Prince — ^for it is
the Prime Minister and husband of the Princess herself — comes
forward. A few moments' conversation, carried on with great
show of condescension on the one side and of humility on the
other, ensues, and then some attendants bring to the door of
the saloon a curious canopy of yellow brocaded silk. Immedi-
ately the sepoys draw up to the canopy, and, while the four
posts are being given to four bearers and the sides of the canopy
let fall, they take precautions that the crowd shall not touch the
screen. What can be the reason t A moment's enquiry shows
that the Princess in passing her capital desires to descend from
the train for refreshment, and that the guard of honour and the
assemblage of her chiefs is in recognition of her rank. Yet no
one on the platform may see the face of the ruler he so greatly
respects. He may gaze upon the rustling, yellow, silk canopy,
may even note the form of its fair occupant as her Highness
unconsciously presses against the hanging sides ; but, however
much he may esteem and reverence her, however great his loy-
alty to her dynasty, he may only be granted the privilege erf a
glimpse of the outward sign of Royalty. So, too, when she re-
turns to the carriage, a quarter of an hour later, what struggling
of soldiery and canopy-bearers to prevent the eye of the curious
from gazing upon the Boyal lady's face ! It so chances that
they are not so clever as zealous, and that just as her Highness
is being smuggled up the carriage steps the poles shifl their
position, and the eyes and forehead of a handsome dame of
some thirty years are for a moment visible. But such a
glimpse was by no means intended. The only Boyal personage
who might be looked upon at will at this moment in Trich-
inopoly is the son of another Boyal lady — the Empi-ess of India.

A WEEK IN MADBAS. 146

Triohinopoly has undergone many changes and witnessed
many spectacles. Yet it is doubtful whether it has often been
the scene of a more momentous event during its singular his-
tory than that which took place on Saturday. As a general
rule it has figured in most of the wars of the district. It fell a
victim to the ever-wandering Mahrattas in 1741 ; a little later
the Nizam took possession of it ; the French had it next ; then
Glive, after which the Tangerines held it for a time. Eventu-
ally the English came again, turned the Tangerines out, and
settled down with the determination to remain masters of the
district for ever. The result is that a collectorate is established
there, that European troops and native soldiers under European
officers parade its streets, that the British flag flies on the
summit of the Bock, and English laws are obeyed with prompti-
tude.

Never, however, so far as I can learn, has any representative
of English Boyalty appeared here. Triohinopoly was accord-
ingly en/ete to receive the Prince on Ms arrival, and European
as well as Native residents did the best they could to express
their loyalty. I may at once note that the chief characteristic
of the Hindoo, next to his love for chandeliers — ^in which
peculiarity he surpasses all rivals — la his love of painting. He
has not the slightest idea oi perspective, his notions of the
human form are vastly infeiior to the ideas which painters in
the time of Sennacherib possessed; the faces he draws are the
ugliest conceivable, and the colours he uses are the worst that
can be found ; but for all that he will paint whenever the op-
portunity occurs. He paints the outside of his house and the
imdde of his temples ; he bedaubs the walls of his garden if he
has a garden wall to daub, and he paints his neighbour's wall if
he has none of his own. And when a procession — such as that
which the Prince made — stakes place, he paints the arches which
are erected with all his energy. He did so in honour of the
Boyal visit, and the result was a little startling. Scarccily a

14« tFITB THE f&nrCB IN INDIA.

^ouse in the ]^ace has a roc^; manj dwellings boast onlj tiieir
walls ; old temples with blackened walls, dilapidated palaces,
and broken-down bridges are on every side. Here is a pagoda
surmounted by a cross, there a mosque without a dome— it is a
scene of hopeless desolation.

Tet even these ruins are very picturesque. Th^ are found
on the banks of an exquisitely pretty river, in the centre of a
wide-spreading and well-wooded plain, superior to that on which
Poena stands ; and in the centre of all is a rock, whidi even a
Scotchman would allow to be superior to Arthur's Seat. A
great red mass of stone rises sharply from the ground to a
harshly-defined point. On the sides are galleries constructed
of white marble ; on the top is a pillared structure, of great
massiveness, but still c^ singular elegance, surmounted by a
flag-staff. Nothing else of any height is near it ; it rises about
five hujidred feet in an almost perpendicular fashion, sharply
and abruptly. At a distance it looks like a huge building, so
wonderfully does it shoot up from the centre of the town, like
the great Athenian hill, though by many feet its superior. At
its foot is a bright, clear lake, well filled witi^ water, and en-
compassed by a marble terrace. And then, in a wider circle,
lies the dilapidated, ruined town, and outside this are the walls
that enclose the fort. The decorations consisted of such arches
as have not hitherto been seen anywhere else. I have said
they were painted ; their cdour was black. Span and supports
alike were then divided into spaces some two feet square, and
on these panels native artists exercised th^ ingenuity. At
Baroda the energetic engineer, while encouraging the natives to
erect triumphal trophies, decidedly curbed their passion for
daubing ; but at Trichinopoly the peculiarity was encouraged.
As a result, the streets exhibited a series of the most extra-
ordinary pictures ever seen. One arch was covered witii de-
lineations <^ animals — ^blue cats, green dogs, red tigers, purple
lions, yellow elephants, and snakes with heads like crabs and

A WBBR IN MADRAS. 147

oonilxitiaticms like qoadnipeds. Another ardi depicted tin
trades of Trichinopdy. Blue-faced men with pink hair were
hamn^ring, with green hammers, porple-cdoored gold bracelets.
The other pictures of artisans were in excellent keeping with
this cqpecimen. A third arch portrayed all the deities of the
district — Shiva, Yishnu, and the rest of their pleasant company.
I do not know the exact number of arms and legs which each
particular god uid goddess claims as a right ; but I am sure
that ugii^ faces were nev^ portrayed, and that an English
painter would have had some trouble in producing anything like
them. At first I thought the climax of caricature was reached
in what was intended as a likeness of the Queen ; but later on
I saw an aich whidi bore a " likeness ** of the Prince, with the
inscription underneath, ^' His Boyal Highness did come after
ally'' and was then obliged to admit that the painter of that
{^cture had surpassed all his countrymen.

The Hall of the Thousand Pillars, at Srirangam, is known
far and wi^ It is dedicated to tiiat very respectable deity
Vishnu, is ^e centre of one of the finest temples in India, is
surrounded by massive towers, and contains many precious
treasures. A visit from the Prince tiierel^Kre was a certainty,
and i^e piests ^epfured accordingly. The road along which his
Royid BEighness had to pass was exceedingly beautiful. Date
and cocoanut palms, with almost every other kind oi tropical
tree, overhung and shaded it ; the varied costumes of the peo-
^e added to the brightness of the scene, and, consequently, the
drive was very enjoyable. Arrived at the pagoda, the Prince
was received by the dignitaries of the temple with all possible
-pomp and eAiow. Old men in long, white robes, accompanied
by a number of nautch-girls, gaudily dressed, omam^ited with
spangles, rings, jewels in their hair, and wreaths of fiowers on
their heads, met the Prince at the end of a long corridor, and
conducted him to the temple, the girls singing a low chant, and
rf6attering flowers on th^ pathway. In this way the Boyal party

148 WITH TEE FRINCJS IN INDIA.

moved into a kind of reception saloon, where the treasoreg of
the place ifere displayed on a tabla As usoa!, they were (^
the most varied and curious kinds, valuable, apparenUy, Goly
for their weight as pieces of embossed gold, and for the jewels
which enriched them. No possible use, for instance, could be
made of a golden hand eighteen inches long, and proportionatdy
broad; or of a foot of even greater size. Nor were the OTna-
ments available for personal decoration, unless a man felt in-
clined to hang himself in golden chains, when the assortment
at Srirangam might be useful

However, it was interesting to look at these curiosities; inter-
esting also to watch the countenances (^ the priests, as with evi-
dent pride they directed the attention of the Prince to one article
after another; and his Boyal Highness courteously waited till the
exhibition was concluded without the slightest sign of impati-
<mce. His patience may be better understood when it is known,
that in addition to the delay already incurred, it was proposed
to read an address. Smilingly his Eoyal Highness assented to
this also, whereupon an old gentleman, with a wonderful name,
read some mild platitudes and assuitinces of loyalty with great
self-satisfaction. True that the words were engraved upon a
sheet of gold. A Miss Kilmansegg might have valued the
oration on that account. But the history of Trichinopoly
scarcely needed to be told again, and we were all very glad
when the priest had done reading it.

The inspection of the Hall of the Thousand Pillars followed,
and was better appreciated. As an architectural work the
singular apartment could scarcely be called a triumph. Half
the number of pillars, better carved and more regularly anang-
ed, would have produced a better effect ; half that number
again would have been a further improvement ; the roof was
irregular, the supports were crooked, and the vista very defec-
tive. So much for the interior. The view from the roof, to
which the Prince was presently takexii was good. Here the

A WEEK IN MADRAS. 149

towers of the temple, with their rich oarving, were follj in
view, and they repaid the trouble which the Prince had taken in
moonting. A few minutes were accordingly spent enjoying the
prospect, and then the Boyal visitor departed.

All was not over, however, even as far as the temple was
o<Ri€emed; for a portly priest, whose eyes twinkled with delight
at having been introduced to the Prince, proposed that the girls
should dance in honour of the occasion. Whereupon they
began ^e low chan^ and curious shuf9e, which I have already
described. There was a conspicuously ugly man who sang,
or, to be more just, howled vigorously. There was a piper,
and, you may be sure, a large gathering of spectators. The
audience, in fact, seemed to spring out of the groimd, so sud-
denly did it appear, and so numerouslyi In less than a minute
ihere must have been an assemblage of some himdreds — ^men,
women, and children — all crowding round to see the dance.
Then, as though by soQie {preconcerted signal, the great doors of
the pagoda opened, and in bundled, all together, helter skelter,
a number of elephants, a sacred buffalo or two, a donkey, and
a great crowd of people of all ages. The animals made quickly
for their resting-places. The people increased the dense mass
of onlookers, and we, to avoid suffocation, struggled through
the perspiring mass into the open air, much to the disappoint-
ment of the chief of the temple, who presently retired and
wrote a long letter of eight quarto pages, which he forwarded
to those who represented the English press.

A fkr more picturesque spectacle was that afforded by the
ro<^ when illuminated at night time. I don't know that any
great talent was needed to produce a remarkable effect in the
rugged outlines of the rock itself. The curious pagoda which
crowns its summit, and the buildings on its sides oiUy required
to be lighted up in the most careless manner to ensure a spec-
tacle worth looking at. The priests of the temple on the rock
bad, however, done their utmost to render the occasion mem-

150 WITH THE PBINCB lit INDIA.

orable, and as a result the rock blazed with light. Coloured
fires were lighted on each projecting point. Every line of the
grand natural structure and of the temple was marked bj
hundreds of lamps ; the whole standing out against the dark
sky in bold r^ief. Daylight had scarcely gone when the Prince,
attended by his suite, took up his position in a temporary build-
ing erected opposite the rock, for the special purpose of en-
abling his Boyal Highness to witness the illumination and
promised fireworks. A huge silver throne had been placed on
a dios under a marvellously worked canopy of gold and silver
foil, crimson and blue paper, and such like decorative material.
Here the Prince took his seat ; his suit ranged themselves <m
both sides ti Mm in velvet chairs, ladies and gentlemen of the
district came in and stood bdiind the Boyal party; a band which
was situated in the road struck up, and then the entertainment
began.

The rock itself was simply magnificent. The great square
tank of water which ijxtervened between the Prince and the
tfflnple was radiant with lamps ; the masses of red and white
turbaned pec^e, the long lines of troops, and the occupants of
the gardens were all parts of a very striking picture. But the
firewcHrks were a dismal failure. It mattered little whether we
enjoyed it or not; the people were delighted beyond description,
and any unpleasant effects from the clouds of smoke which
filled the air were more than compensated for when, as was the
case every now and then, the noise ceased for a minute, the
vapour cleared away, and we saw tiie rock once more blazing
as br%htly as ever. Once we saw a cataract of fire falling
down one of the crevices of the rock, and now and then the
colours c^ the lights changed, and the mountain, which was
bright red a minute before, was suddenly brilliant in bright
green. It was altogether a novel and pleasing sight, and one
which attracted the Prince for two or three hours.

I do not know how the notion arose, l#ut by some means

A WBBK IN MADBA& 151

or other I had oome to associate Madras in my mind with
almost all that is objectionable. In praise of Bombay whole
books had been written, for Calcutta there were always plenty
to speak ; but no one to say a good word for Madras. That
you could not land on its surf-beaten shore without the certainty
of a tossing^ and the probability of a drenching ; that the Black
Town was as uninviting a spot as any on earth; that its
climate was sultry" and its atmosphere redolent of ague and
cholera, everybody asserted. Consequently, when I entered
the capital of the Southern Presidency my expectations were
not great. Little did I expect to find a broad beach of bright
sand some miles in length and many yards in depth, with a
bright, blue sea in front, and the prettiest of watering-places
behind. Nowhere did the Black Town, that great bugbear of
the city, obtrude itself. There was scarcely anything to show
that we were not enjoying a summer day's retreat on the Eng-
lish coast. Between us and even the English houses and
Government buildings for the most part a wide promenade and
spacious gardens extended. There were English children play-
ing on the beach ; English ships of war riding in the offing ;
the English flag was flying from the flagstaff of that famous old
fort whence Clive was wont to sally; unmistakably English
sailors were wandering along the shore; and the heat for the
moment was scarcely more than that of an English July day.

Yet there were tokens that we were not in England. A
glance at the boats coming ashore revealed those most singular
crafts, the catamarans, with their intrepid boatmen and strange
cargoes. Two pieces of wood fastened together somewhat aftwr
the fashion of an open raft, and a pole with a flat end, com-
pleted the boat equipment, forming altogether such a water-
conveyance as one would scarcely care to travel in. The black
fisherman, standing erect on their extraordinary crafb, now rid-
ing over the surf, and next letting a heavy wave go over him,
could scarcely be found off Hastings or Eastbourne ; nor should

163 WITR lEB PBINOB IN INDIA.

we meet with snch a group of coloured women engaged in dry-
ing fish at either Aldborough or BhyL For all that^ the scene
18 not nn-English, and the illusion ia not altogether destroyed
when we look iuland. There are beautiful buildings such as
could only haTO been designed by English architects. There is
the spire of an English church, rising high in the air ; you
come upon English shops immediately upon leaving the strand,
and the drums of your ears are being rent by salutes froni Eng-
lish guns. Of course you can be under no mistake when once
you have crossed the park-like space which runs down to the
shore, and enter the Black Town. You aro then in the very
blackest of black places that can be imagined. The marvel is
how the inhabitants who are crowded together within its walls
contriye to live in such an atmosphere as they breathe. Let
me describe the sort of house they dwell in.

In Bombay two«toried tenements, with great windows,
fronted by a biick terrace or seat, on which the friends <^ the
shopkeeper can squat and talk, form the native bazaar. In
Madras, however, the houses have only one story, boast no
windows whatever, and are fronted by two terraces, raised
about eighten inches above each other, the door, which is the
only mode of ingress, light, or ventilation, being always a very
subsidiary consideration. Along each side of the road runs a
broad gutter, somewhat after the fashion which obtains in
Baroda. Into this the sewage of the town runs freely, with
such e£fect as need not be detailed. On the terraces the popu-
lation eat, drink, and sleep. I saw a school of jabbering,
naked children on one terace ; the school-master sat apparently
fast asleep in their midst, while they kept up a monotonous
hubbub such as no other children in the world could have sur*
passed; on another ledge there lay a corpse, over which a
number of women — ^professional mourners — ^were making loud
lamentations ; while on a third a lady of exceptionally dirty
appearance was frying some cakes of dough and £ftt, coloured

A WEEK IN MADBA8. 153

apparently with turmeric. I did not attempt to enter their
dwellings ; a glance through the open door showed that they
wQiie rather more objectionable than ah ordinary English pig-
stye, and almost as smalL Nor was it necessary to inquire as
to the actual prevalence of cholera in the town. If it did not
esdst just then, it did very lately, and with the return of very
hot weathw would probably appear again.

Madras Eaces were a great success. If a drawback attended
them it was the necessity for turning out at five o'clock in the
morning — ^for, if Madras gets up early, it has no idea of going
to bed at a reasonable hour. No matter whether you are for-
tunate enough to dine at the house of the Honourable Mr. Ellis,
the well-known member of Council — than whom I know no
more genial host — or at the hospitable Madras Club, famed for
its curries and its balls, you cannot find your couch till long
after midnight is past. The dinner at Madras is a sacred in-
stitution, held in the highest oonsideration. Course follows
course with the regularity of clockwork, yet not with unseemly
speed ; and by the time that coffee and the petit verre arrive
your night is gone and morning has come. Yet races cannot
be run in a mid-day sun, and rest must therefore be deferred.
Grumble, however, though one may very justly at all this, the
scene on the course more than repaid for the trouble ex-
peiienced in reaching it like their more northern brethren,
the Arabs, the Hindoos are passionately attached to horses. So
they sallied out by thousands before even the day broke ; and
when we reached the ground, had taken up their positions all
along the course, adding their coloured costumes to the bright
green of the landscape.

The course is a long oval in shape, well within view of the
Grand Stand all the way. On this Stand, by a little after six
o'clock, the English residents of Madras had assembled, and I
am bound to say that their number comprised the prettiest bevy
of ladies we have yet met in the East. But if the ladies and

10

154 WITH TEE PRINCE IN INDIA.

their costumes were striking, how much more so the naidre
chieftains who occupied the very centre of the Stand. There
were the brother of the Eajah of Cochin, grand in a golden robe
and turban ; the Rajah of Johdpore, irreyerently named the
savage Eajah, leaning on his sword ; we missed for a time the
Maharajah of Yizianagram, but in place of him the Bajah of
Arcot was to be seen, umbrella in hand, looking about him
with great curiosity. Then there was a number of minor poten-
tates — all fine handsome men, and not boys like those we saw
at Bombay — sitting amicably in the little railed-off space
appointed for native royalty, their countenances beaming with
delight.

Presently the Prince, accompanied by Lord Alfred Paget,
Lord Charles Beresford, Lord Carington, Lord Aylesford, Major
Bradford, and some of the less important members of his staff,
drove up, attended by an escort of cavalry. The races at once
began. Gkimbling was not a characteristic of the meeting.
Not a betting man was in sight; the sounds of " Two to one"
or " Four against the field'' were missed. I do not think a bet
was made on the course. Members of the Madras Club were
allowed to risk ten shillings in a sweepstakes on each race, de-
positing cards in a box which will be opened on Christmas Day ;
but beyond this you could not stake a sixpence. Many of the
horses, too, were ridden by their owners, so that the meeting
partook very much of the nature of a series of private races.
The Prince could and did leave the seat provided for him, and
walk into the saddling enclosure without fear of being mobbed ;
he could chat with the English residents and others who
chanced to be near, while the course was being cleared and ike
judges were taking their places. Everything was admirably
ordered, even to a refreshment buffet, from which hot coffee
and tea with toast and fruit came to* all who thought fit to
breakfast on the ground. Nothing, in fact, could be more en-
joyable or satisfactory; the racing was good; the steeplechaaiDg

A WEEK IN MADBAS. 155

was better, and the conduct of all present, if possible, better
still. Now and then a funny incident occurred. Wandering
about in the enclosure, in a disconsolate manner, was a man
attired in a very extraordinary costume. His bearing was
that of one disconsolate, and enquiry resulted : what did he
want — ^why his misery 1 At length it turned out that he wanted
to ride in a race from which the committee had excluded him
on account of his singular dress. They held that a man in a
red turban, green coat, blue continuations, and white petticoat,
was not attired suitably as a jockey ; he on his part asserted
that the two horses he had entered for two consecutive races
would beat everything else on the ground. At last it was
ruled that he should try, and try he did accordingly. The
results to that doleful man were conclusive. The limping
animal he bestrode vainly endeavoured to take part in the
race ; his red turban waa seen nearly a quarter of a mile behind
the black and red caps of his jockey competitors, and when at
leongth he did reach the goal, he received such a derisive greet-
ing from both natives and Englishmen that he slunk away
quickly, and was seen no more.

The event of the meeting was the Sandringham Steeplechase,
for a cup given by the Maharajah of Jeypore. Nine horses
were entered, Arabs and Mysore breds ; the natives gathered
at the jumps, and every fieldglass on the stand was brought
into requisition. I believe that every soul on Madias Bace-
course would have willingly foregone all the other races rather
than have surrendered that steeplechase. Nme such horses,
too, are not often to be found. There was a veteran named
Phantom, on whom an enthusiastic sportsman from the Neil-
gherries announced his readiness to stake his coat ; there was
a steed called Bed Deer, ridden by a Captain Bullen, on which
any number of tickets were put into the Pari Mutuel box.
There were some who would have liked to risk five hundied in-
stead of five rupges on the pretty chestnut owned and ridden

156 WITH THE FBINCE IN INDIA.

by» Captain Bullen. There was a mare called Gazelle, wlio
presently behaved very unlike the type of swiftness and good
temper, refusing absolutely to go to the starting post, despite
all the efforts of her Hindoo admirers to coax her. I do not
think the Gazelle was heavily backed ; her reputation was well
known, and tickets bearing her name were not numerous in the
box. There is always a dark horse at such a time about which,
though nobody knows much, there is a good deal of whispering
and winking. We had that horse at our steeplechase; his
name was Artaxerxes. The Prince was clearly anxious to see
the end, for he left the place of State and bounded up to the
top of the stand with a readiness which spoke more for his
physical powers than the longest possible certificate from Dr.
Fayrer.

At last eight horses were got into position, the Gazelle
having by this time been given up as a bad job. Somebody
said that Captain BuUen's horse in going to the starting post
had suffered a tumble ; but to the relief of at least a third of
those on the Grand Stand, Bed Deer could be seen mounted
by her gallant owner in rose-coloured jacket and black cap,
ready to be off in a moment. And off he was, with all his
rivals, directly afterwards, without a false start, steering straight
for the first jump of a good high hedge. On went Bed Deer,
cutting out the pace in terrible fashion, fiying over earthen
walls, ditches, hedges, one after another as though Captain
Bullen was a feather-weight The rest Were "nowhere ;" Phan-
tom was last of all, and the dark horse only just in front of him.
The horses were now approaching the water jump, about half
a mile from home; it was the crucial test, and their riders
knew it. A horse called Warwick suddenly shot to the front,
cleared the water, and then stopped as though that leap was
the end of the race. Phantom was not far behind^—say about
fourtL Bed Deer was second. Then ensued a struggle. The
old fjftvourite carried a heavy weighty and his rider strove in

A WEEK m MADBASk 157

vain to catch Captain Bnllen and his fleet horse ; yet the race
seemed to be between them, and some were calling for Phan-
tom, while the majority shouted Red Deer, when that terrible
dark horse with colours of black and crimson forged ahead away
from the rear, passed the striving pair in front, and cantered in
first as easily and carelessly as though it had simply been out
for a morning's exercise, and was just finishing an agreeable
gallop. ''Artaxerxes!" screamed the crowd. It was quite
true ; Mr. Taafe, the owner, had won by about a dozen lengths,
leaving Bed Deer and Phantom to finish in a neck-and-neok
struggle. This was the last of the sport ; it was nearly nine
o'clock, and the Rothesay Plate, the Denmark Plate, and the
Prince of Wales' Plate, the Alexandra Plate, and the Sand-
ringham Cup, all given by native Rajahs, in honour of the
Piince and his home, were handed to their winners ; the people
cheered, as the Prince entered his carriage and drove away,

" Reception" is at best a vague term. There are, in ordinary
life, cold receptions and warm receptions; there are formal
reception? and informal ones ; and in Indian State phraseology
a ^'reception" may mean anything. Hence the cards which
were sent round by the courteous Major Hobart, military secre-
tary to the Duke of Buckingham, and which invited those who
were feivoured to a ''reception," were subjects of some discus-
sion.

A great feature in apartments of all kinds built by Europeans
in India is that tliey are lofty and well ventilated ; the recep-
tion-room at Madras is no exception to the rule. A fine saloon,
admirably lit, decorated with paintings of some merit, fitted up
with a dais at one end, and a prettily-arrranged orchestral
stand at the other, was the place in which the Duke of Buck-
ingham met his guests. From one wing the fire-works, for
which Madras had paid £1,000, could be seen to advantage; in
the other a refreshment bufiet ofiered attractions which resi-
dents in India well appreciate. Inside the ball the Prince W93

158 J^TH THE PBINOB IN INDIA.

already on the dius, attended bj his suite, when ten o'clock
strack; the orchestra was singing a chorale of no ordinary
merit, composed in honour of his Eoyal Highness, aiid in com-
memoration of his visit. The space between was occupied by
ladies ftnd gentlemen in evening dress, officers in uniform, a
number of the Rajahs at present in Madras, and their principal
chieftainSi Sometimes some one more noteable than the rest
was taken to the dios, and presented to the Prince. Occasion-
ally his Boyal Highness, recognising some one whom he had
seen before, descended to the floor, and honoured the indi-
vidual with a word of greeting. All the advantages of a pri-
vate gathering — ^for everybody knew everybody else — with all
the grandeur of a State ceremonial were there ; and if anything
is remembered with satisfaction during the visit of the Prince —
and I think the arrangements have been very satisfactory — ^it
must surely be this "Reception." Midnight was long past
before the carriages were called for and the guests separated,
and we then weni to our respective destinations, through long
lines of illuminated streets, lit by oil lamps arranged in all
kinds of devices, with mottoes of the usually loyal description.

In a city so famous for jugglers, snake-charmers, acrobats,
and chevcUters (Tindustrie generally, ladies and gentlemen who
live by their wits, in the most proper sense of the word, and
who apparently make a very good living, it was scarcely likely
that the Prince of Wales would be permitted to stay long with-
out witnessing the feats of skill for which these wandering
Madrassees are celebrated. The Thursday of the week of his
stay being a comparatively open day, therefore, the morning
was selected for an aL fresco exhibition of this kind. The town
lost the nomads. Government House gardens received them.

Amongst them was a savage who appeared to make the dried
skin of a cobra live. It is a favourite trick — ^you may see it
done twenty times a day in the streets of Madras. Tou may
e^camine the apparatus closely every time and watch the oper-

A WEEK IN MADBAB. 159

ation as careftilly as you please, yet you cannofc detect the
niodua operandi. The performer hands you a little, flat, wicker
basket, some eight inches in diameter, and asks you to inspect
it, while he folds the cobra skin, which you have previously well
examined, into a square, leaving only the tail unfolded. So
soon as you have given the basket back, the juggler places it on
the ground in full view, and under the lid puts the folded part
of the serpent's skin, the tail being in your sight all the while.
You may, at this stage, lift the lid once more to see that
nothing but the serpent's skin is in the basket, after which you
must rest content. A white cloth is taken by the man and
placed over the basket, after having been well shaken so that
jou may be assured nothing is in it. A pipe is produced, and
-with it a horrible noise, similar to that always made by snake-
charmers, and not unlike the sound a cracked and badly made
bagpipe would emit, is made. No one goes near the cloth or
basket, except the almost naked man, who cannot possibly hide
any live snake in his sleeves, for the simple and sufficient reason
that he has neither sleeves nor jacket, nor, indeed, any other
kind of clothing than a small waistcloth, which would certainly
be a most inconvenient hiding-place for a lively young cobra.
The sheet is lifted, you look at the basket and see the tail of a
living snake being gradually drawn into it, and on the lid being
qpened a most distinctly energetic serpent is discovered. No
sooner is it stirred than it rises on its tail, spreads out its hood,
and strikes with its fangs and tongue at the charmer. No one
would care to examine that basket now with a cobra four feet
long, making vicious snaps at the juggler. The charmer takes
good care that the snake comes near you, for with a dexterous
movement he seizes the reptile by the head, and holding it in
one hand comes to you with his basket in the other, while you
put a rupee into the receptacle, if only to induce him to go
away.
. The snake gone, a stout, strong girl comes forward, makes a

160 WITH THE PEINCB IN INDIA.

deep obeisance, and then stepping back throws a man weighing
fully 11 St. over her shoulders. Nor does she stop here, for she
seizes her victim once more, places him crosswajs on her back,
and then tosses him into the air as though he were made <^
feathers, and not a broad-shouldered human being. Turning
backwards on her feet, she picks up straws with her eye-lids,
throws somersaults and lifts weights which would astonish Uia
ordinary London acrobat. While she is thus performing,
jugglers are changing pebbles into birds, birds into eggs, and
eggs into plants ; men thread beads with their tongues, join
innumerable pieces of cotton into one long cord, keep half-arscore
of sharp knives in the air at once, throw cannon balls with t^eir
toes, and spin tops on the end of twigs. Pandemoniym reigns,
the clatter is unbearable, and one is compelled, as was the
Prince, to dismiss the tribe of vagrants without further delay.
Supposing the visit of the Prince to result anywhere in the
commencement of works of utility, as it has already in most of
the places his Eoyal Highness has touched at, the working
population of India will have cause to be permanently gratefuL
Foundation stones of asylums and hospitals, inaugurations of
railways, and memorial stones of breakwaters and harbours, all
tend to the employment of thousands, and, as such, should un-
doubtedly be valued. But at Madras the work begun was
peculiarly useful. It will not only be the means of transferring
rupees and annas from the pockets of the trading community to
the waistcloths of the estimable artisans of the Black Town,
but it will be a "joy for ever " to the thousands of travellers
who in years to come have to land at Madras. It would re-
quire the most devoted attachment to ancient customs for any>
one to reason that, because for ages it has been the £Eishion to
get a drenching in the surf before the esplanade at Madras is
reached, it would be well to continue the custom ; and as the
inhabitants of this city are by no means wedded to antiquity,
it was suggested that a harbour should be constructed, and that
the Prince should lay the first stone.

A WEEK IN MADRAS. 161

How admirably the ceremony was managed may be told in a
very lew words. Everything was arranged on the principle that
''silence is golden/' a maxim which other places the Prince has
yet to visit would do well to bear in mind. The stone was hung
in its place under a frame prettily decorated, a cloth covered
with the plans of the harbour was laid upon a table, while the
mortar-board and trowel were arranged so that as soon as his
Eoyal Highness should arrive the formality of fixing the stone
might be got through expeditiously. The ladies were ranged
in tiws of seats on either side of the stone ; in front were two
oth^ stands for less distinguished persons, troops lined the
road, and the preparations were complete. The people and the
sea filled in the picture, and a strikingly pretty one it was. In
sight of everybody the foam on the shore and the huge waves
breaking over tossed and tossing catamarans supplied an ever-
recurring reason for the enterprise. All along the line of route
tens of thousands of people testified to the interest ^th which
the work was regarded.

It was a different crowd from what we had seen anywhere
else. The Mahratta turban in which the native of Bombay
delights oould nowhere be seen ; the hideous Parsee headdress
was, greatly to our relief, absent, tooi$ nor could the Cingalese
comb be discovered anywhere ; the full Madras turban, some-
times red and sometimes white, frequently trimmed with gold,
and always cleverly made, was almost the only kind of head-
dress. But if the turbans were not of a very varied hue — if
the pink, green, blue, and yellow of the Mahratta were want-
ing, there was plenty of colour after alL A pleasant practice
of staining the face bright yellow is much in favour with the
native dames and damsels of Madras. Most of the men wear a
device in white and red on their foreheads as a token of piety.
There are as many shades of difference in the skins* of the
dwellers on the Coromandel coast as could be found between
Nubia and Italy^ and the dresses which are worn on high days

162 WITH THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

and holidays boast every hue of the rainbow. As they packed
themselyes together to await the coming of the Prince, the
women grouped by hundreds, the men in similar numbers, the
front rank seated on the ground, those behind kneeling, while
the rearmost of all stood up and peered over the heads of the
others, they formed a vast and iar-^ztending mass, to see which
a journey of even eleven thousand miles was not too much.
Every now and then carriages containing Bajahs and Maha-
rajahs is picturesque costumes, escorted by the Governor's body-
guard in bright scarlet and gold uniforms, and followed by par-
ties of their own wild-looking horsemen, drove past; and at
last the Prince himself came, cheered vociferously by the crowd.
The spreading of the mortar and the lowering of the stone
occupied the slightest possible time, and before most ceremonies
would have begun this was over, and the Prince well on his
way back to Qovernment House.

Old Indians will, however, ask one question, which must
perforce be answered — what of the Madras Club ball! For of
all the clubs in India that of Madras, at once the oldest and
widest known, is held to be the best. In competition with it
are the famous Byculla Club at Bombay, and the Bengal Club
at Calcutta; but these are held by the men of Southern India
to be inferior to the famous home of curries. Such high claims
bring with them high obligations. It is not enough to boast of
being the best; it is necessary to prove it. If the Madras
Club understands anything, however, it is the art of good liv-
ing. Let others boast larger billiard-rooms or finer libraries ;
the Madras Club places side by side with these advantages, for
the judgment of the thoughtful and the hungry, the best dinner
in India, in the handsomest dining-room. For several days
past the Club had been turned upside down for the purpose of
decoration and preparation. The dining-saloon was converted
into a ball-room, the library became a drawing-room, and the
whole magnificent building was lit up with lamps, and wreathed

A WEEK IN MADRAS. 163

viiHk foliage and flowers. From the time that the arrival of a
frmny little captaiB was mistaken for that of the Prince of
Wales, and honoured by the formation of a long lane down the
room, soon to be closed amid a peal of laughter, to half-past two
o'clock, when the Prince left, everything wsb the veiy perfec-
tion of enjoyment. Wherever a comer could be found, dancers
availed themselves of it, covering not only the floor of the ball-
room itself, but the passage which ran between it and the
library, and extending into this last-named room itself Nor
was this difficult, for wide arehways united the three into one,
and from any givei^ point the whole could be seen. At the
supper the Madras Club held its own bravely, vindicating its
claim to be the best of providers; and so the ball was a grand
success, and one of which the Club and the city are alike proud.
The capital of the Presidency did well ; and the encomium
which the Prince passed on the ball extends to all that has
been achieved during the week that was spent at Madras.

CHAPTER XIV.

IH]>IAN AMUSEMENTS.

It is the old air of " Bonnie Dundee." At first you ooold
scarcely recognize it. The six semi-frantic Hindoo musicians
who are performing on a discordant violin, a pipe, a tom-tom,
and some conch shells, make a fearsome noise ; but no\(r and
then the old tune crops up for a bar or two, though it " crops"
down for a good many bars directly afterwards. Were sturdy
old Claverhouse here, he would make short work of such min-
strel boys with that claymore of his. It is enough to make the
blood of a Scotchman tingle again. Yet listening patiently^
and even smilingly, to this terrible burlesque of the good stirrup
song, is the Prince of Wales, Duke of Rothesay, and Lord of
the Isles, surrounded and suppoiijed by a hundred Scotch ladies
and gentlemen, to say nothing of two or three hundred English
residents of Madras, and, at least, four thousand native gentle-
men. Perhaps the peculiarity of the occasion may account for
this extraordinary placidity under such very irritating circum-
stances. Let us see where we are, and judge for ourselves.

In a great hall, some five hundred feet long, and a hundred
and fifty feet broad, are gathered together the riEtnk and fashion,
native and European, of the Presidency of Madras. English offi-
cers in scarlet rub shoulders with aged Mohammedans dressed
in white and gold. . European ladies sit next to young Tamil
beaux; Hindoo princes and chieftains, who probably never
heard of each other before, fill every line of chairs on a raised
dais. French and English naval officers hob-nob at a refresh-
ment buffet, the bright glasses of which can be seen through
their muslin curtains, partially looped up, collectors of distiicti^

INDIAN AMUSEMENTS. 165

and the people who have to pay the taxes, all are here decked
out in full dress. In the centre of the dais, which, by the way,
is on the right centre of the room, sits the Prince of Wales, on
a golden throne. His suite are clustered behind him. On his
left is the Duke of Buckingham, in the full uniform of a Gk)V-
emor of Madras ; on his right Mrs. Shaw Stewart and the Maha-
rajah of Travancore, who, by the bye, is just such another quick-
eyed little gentleman as Sir Madava Eao, of Baroda; also the
Maharajah of Vizianagiam, and the Prince of Arcot, all glitter-
ing with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and gold. On either side
of the Prince, below the dais, is a great sea of upturned faces ;
in front of his Eoyal Highness is, first of all, a little table,
bearing an immense gold casket, the lid of which is surmounted
by a silver tiger, then an open raised platform, in the centre of
which hang a dozen coloured ropes, fastened together at the
top 'y while farther back still is a stage, on which are squatted
some fifty natives, male and female, all attired in the most
fantastic fashion ; a screen fastened to the wall in rear of them
depicting a jungle scene and a springing tiger. As your eye
wanders round the building you notice that the roof is one of
extraordinary beauty, ornamented with flowers, stars, circles,
and all kind9 of devices by the artists, evidently of Tanjore.
The gold, silver, and crimson foil in this remarkable ceiling, as
well as on the sides of the pillars which support it, glitter and
glisten in the light which scores of chandeliers throw upon
them ; but more than ever when flashes of limelight thrown
from four points in the building hurl a dazzling gleam across
the hall. You might perchance wish that the gentlemen who
have charge of the latter knew how to manage it, and that they
would not blind you at one moment and leave you in compara-
tive darkness the next, but you must not complain.

This is a native entertainment given to the Prince, managed

by natives from the doors to the limelights, in a place with a

. very native name — to wit, Royapooram — having for its chief

166 TFITH THE PBINCS IN tKDIA.

entrance a door leading into a way called in native parlance
Thumboo Clietty, decorated by natives, arranged, controlled,
and now almost filled bj natives. The programme promises
an entirely native performance, the presentation of a native
casket, Kdl&ttam or Plait dances, concerted pieces on the
Saranth^ Sittdr, Yina and Dol, and a native drama in four
acts. Tou might wish that the native plan of smiling and
making a present quickly had been pursued in regard to that
casket, instead of a tedious imitation of that most trying of all
customs, the presentation of an address ; but this is an innova-
tion insisted upon by the long-robed, red-turbaned gentlemen
who flock up to the dais just before the band strikes up, and
read and stand in front of the Prince; while one of their
number, happy man, reads a long rigmarole, of which we can-
not hear even the purport were we so disposed. Of course the
Prince replies pleasantly, as is his wont, using almost the same
words, however, as have been put into his lips twenty times
already ; and then the entertainment begins.

Looking at the matter from a purely metaphysical point of
view, it may, perhaps, be conceded that not only lights, but
even shades, are advantageous in our pleasures. The easy chair
which suddenly discovers a broken spring, the comfortable cot
which presently lets you down on the hard deck below, the buck-
jumping horse, and even a voyage like that in the " Nagotna,"
all have their useful lessons, all aid to make unalloyed pleasures
the more appreciated. Viewed thus, the native entertainment
was a complete success. It was in itself the most dismal and
trying performance ever witnessed, yet the memory of the
misery endured during its continuance may tend to make those
who sat in that tinselled hall, from nine in the evening till two
the next morning, a little less captious in future.

But while I digress the music, if music it can be called^ is
going on, and " Bonnie Dundee " on pipes and tom-toms, conch
shell and fiddle, is being murdered. At last a dozen girls.

INDIAN AMUSEMENTS. 167

strangely atidred, come away from the throng squatted down in
front of the screen, and walk up to the coloured ropes. Unlike
the celebrated lady of Banbury Cross, they have not only " rings
on their fingers and bells on their toes," but "they have rings,
great pearl-adorned rings in their noses, rings in their ears,
rings of bells on their ankles, and wreaths of flowers on their
heads. Strictly speaking, not one of them can be styled pretty ;
their features are regular and their forms fairly good, but these
beauties of Madras, selected on account of their personal at-
tractions to dance before the Prince, are neither .graceful in ap-
pearance nor lithe in movement. Their dress, which could not
be more resplendent, so entirely covered is it with gold, silver,
and jewels, has a cumbersome look about it which by no means
adds to the facility of motion, and the long red trousers which
each damsel wears hang in a slovenly manner over the naked
feet, and occasionally impede the dcmaevse in the very midst of
her steps. Still it must not be denied that these nautch girls
are picturesque in appearance. Their long black hair, worn in
plaited tresses, their olive-coloured skins and great white eyes,
their curious costume, and their wonderful ornaments, lend
them in the flashing lime-light a fictitious weirdness which the
three witches whom Macbeth saw might have sighed for in
vain. And when they seize each a coloured rope, and to the
tune of that extraordinarily rendered " Bonnie Dundee " fly
round in a frantic dance, twirling in and out and backwards
and forwards, till the ropes are all twisted and they are brought
close together, and then, with more dancing, unravelling what
appeared to be a very Gordian knot, and so gradually bring-
ing the ropes into their first order, you have good cause for
wondering, and, were they to stop now, reason to be pleased.

But neither the dancers nor the conch-shell players have any
idea of ceasing yet, and the girls occasionally joining in the
chant, hop and skip and twirl till you are giddy with looking
on, and long for an end of the !&614ttam. You are, however^

168 WITH TEB FBINCE IN INDIA.

in the hands of a stolid old gentleman in a long green gown and
a great purple turban, who occasionally looks at the dancers
and then at the Prince, a look of honest delight and pride beam-
ing through his great round spectacles as he says most unmis-
takably by his self-satisfied grin, ''See what a tremendous
discord they can make, and how admirably they can keep it
up.** They do " keep it up** for nearly an hour, during which
many Europeans enjoy a nap — ^the most wakeful, and certainly
the most graciously patient, being the Prince himself. At last
the purple-robed stage-manager finds his troupe exhausted,
whereupon he orders forward a fresh supply of players, and a
celebrated nautch-giii named Gnydni who is to dance a Oamatic
pas seul,

I need not describe the appearance of this damsel. Had her
charms only equalled her excessive vanity and astonishing
powers of endurance, we might not have objected possibly to
her prolonged gyrations. Nor would the everlasting drumming
on conch shells, tom-tomming, pipe-playing, and fiddle-sci-aping
which aocomjmnied her movements have been so unbearable as
they presently became had they not been accompanied by tiie
hideous noise which the six players were good enough to call
sioging. I have said something about Hindoo music, how it is
all that we hold to be most objectionable in England, exagger-
ated to the utmost extent of human power. The principal
vocalist of the six, this time, was the most terrible of his class.
All of them dispensed with the nose in singing ; he did without
nose or mouth either, and sang apparently from the pit of his
stomach, sending a volume of sound up his open throat that
completely astonished even experienced Anglo-Indians. And
as for power of lungs, he must have borrowed a pair of bellows
from Yulcan to have maintained such a howl for so long a timo
as he did. In a feeble way his companions attempted to ac-
company him, and occasionally the girl ceased her dancing, and
yelled at the top of her voice too; but he needed no assis t an c e^

INDIAN AMU8BMBNT8, 169

the pair of concb shells he clapped together and his incompar-
able windpipe did all that was necessarj^ and it needed the most
frantic efforts of the tom-tom beater to create the slightest im-
pression. We could see the fiddler playing as though he had
orders to go at a rate of a hundred strokes a minute and was
working against time, but the result of his efforts troubled us not,
we could see the pipe-player's dark face getting darker still as
he fought despairingly against the man with the voice ; but whe-
ther he was going on with ''Bonnie Dundee" or giving a selection
from Weber, we never knew. All was swallowed up by that
man in the white turban and long white gown. His face worked
convulsively, his body bowed and bent ; he would lean forward
and then backward; throw his arms frantically into the air, and
then turn round upon his comrades as though he could remon-
strate with them if only he dared stop shouting for a moment— >»
without wearying or pausing, much less stopping. And the
strangest. thing was that the natives smiled and gibbered as
though tiiey were being pleasingly enchanted by the soft song
of a syren. As for the manager of the stage, he was simply
beside himself with joy, and nodded his head with satisfaction
till his spectacles tumbled on to the floor.

I do not know how the Prince went through that trying
ordeal. He said, I was afterwards told by an enthusiastic
native, that he was very much astonished, and no doubt he
was; but nothing except his most imperturbable good humour
could have carried him through it. Tet he continued to look
pleased as the girl squatted down, and jumped up, turned
round with one arm raised, and then sti*utted up to the edge of
• the Eoyal daSa ; or, moving backwards on her heels, joined her
screeching companions and helped them to ''sing;" although
f<v more than an hour she continued the same monotonous
movement, and the musicians the same wonderful noise, the
Prince neither remonstrated, nor for a moment looked weary.
At lengthy as it was now getting far into the morning an4

U

170 WITH THJB PEINOE IN INDIA.

there were five other pieces on the programme^ the (M gmiile-
man in purple essayed to stop the Camatic dame, and this^ after
much rebellious conduct on the part of the white-turbaned
singer, he was enabled to do.

So soon as GnydnA and her companions could he moved off, a
fresh set of musicians accompanied another and a darker girl to
the foot of the dais, and then squatted down, while die, atttiiu^
in their midst, began a **Vinah" solo. Apparently this was
too much for the Prince, and she had not squealed and beaten
a tom-tom which was placed in front of her more tiian ten
minutes when the Prince bowed, rose, and led Mrs. Stewart to
supper. This was a signal for the Yinah solo to sboip, and for
another batch of K6Uttam or Plait dancers to gather round the
coloured ropes ; but when the Prince presently came back, he
stayed for a few moments only and then took his departure. I
never heard whether the programme was continued afterwards
— ^whether the song by Krishna, the oonceited pieces €a the
drama in four acts, were even att^npted. If so^ and each
occupied the time of that Camatic dance, they must be going
on now. I had already determined that at what time I heard
the Saranth6, Sittdr, Yinah, and Dol, I would call for my car-
riage and set out on the five miles' journey which lay before
me ; but the departure of the Prince stifled any scruples which
a strict adherence to the demands of etiquette previously re-
quired, and in company with the rest of the European portkm
of the audience, I quitted the Boyapooram Hall.

While in this city the Prince of Wales paid a visit to the
Madras Club, and there tasted some thirteen curries and eight
chutnies ; his cook also had lessons in the Ckah kitdien, with a
view to introducing the best-made curry into the Marlborough
House cuisine. The record of Madras loyalty and hospitality,
therefore, fitly closes here.

CHAPTER XV.

THB PBINCE IN BEKOAL.

Three timejs the Prinoe of Wales landed on Indian soil — ^first
of all at Bombay ; next at Tutioorin, the most southerly part
<^ Uie Peninsula ; and lastly at Calcutta^ the capital of the
Emigre and the seat of the Viceroy of India.

L^ us transport ourselves at once to the landing-place, at
Frinseps Ghaut, where oa Christmas Eve the entry of the
Prince was ^ected. It is three o'clock in the afternoon ; we
are in the centre of an open space which lies between two open
pavilions. In fnmt is the Hooghly, looking marvellously like
the Thames on a bright summer's day. The sun plays upon
the water% upon the thousands of boats that crowd together
dose to the pier, and the roofs of the warehouses which stand
in a long line on the opposite shore, just as they do on the
Surrey side of the grand old London river. The warehouses
are shut, however, and yonder crowd of boats are full of holi-
day-makers; the ships are gay in colours; and the throng,
which reaches to the water's edge in one direction, and right
away through the city of Calcutta in the other, is no ordinary
gathering, but comprises all that is alive in this great Bengal
capital. It is commonly said that Calcutta crowds lack the
colour which makes an assemblage of Bombay natives so
picturesque. If so, the ordinary aspect differs from that of
ta>day> for the dark faces of the sightseers, and their red hats,
flowing robes, and strange decorations, combine to form a not-
able display hardly inferior to anything I have seen elsewhere.
No combs are visible in the heads of the men, nor many
Mahratta turbans with the curious distinguishing point in the

172 WITS THE FBINOB IN INDIA.

centre thereof. One looks almost in vain for the Parsee hat
and the Madras puggaree ; yet there are fine, handsome, manly
faces, and the graceful Bengal hat is worn in every oonceival^
colour ; rich shawls, too, and costly dresses are not uncommon,
so that the natives of Calcutta may well be proud of their ap-
pearance to-day. My point of view, however, is outside ihe
crowd, next a pillar hidden away in palm leaves, which helps
to support both the pavilions on either side. A crimson
carpet leads down to the end of the pier 3 behind is a huge tri-
umphal arch, whereon a welcome to the Prince is inscribed in
roses — artificial, perhaps, but still roses ; floating on the rivw,
immediately opposite, is the '* Serapis," clad in bunting, and on
either side, at some distance removed, are the belles and beaux
of Calcutta. I have said at some distance, because between my
standpoint and them are all the Rajah and Maharajah-dom of
the Bengal Presidency, together with princes and princelets
from the South and North, who are come hither to see the
Prince, and, if possible, to greet him. The Viceroy is moving
about, shaking hands with his feudatories ; it is a time of great
rejoicing, and everybody is glad.

An air of ease and comfort characterises the reception pavil-
ions. By placing the English residents, both ladies and gentle-
men, on seats which, while rising one above another, abut
upon the walls of the pavilions on either side, a broad square
space is formed, in which the native dignitaries can move
about at pleasure. Here movable couches, sofas, easy chairs,
and lounges are scattered about, and any one may sit or
stand. The Bengal wolf may lie down with the Madras lamb.
Maharajahs and sirdars can meet on an equal footing. Thus
the Maharajah of Puttiala, a short stout gentleman in a white
turban and a bright blue satin coat, stands next to the good
Bishop of Calcutta in shovel hat and shorts ; and not far off are
the three members of the Burmese Embassy, who look, for all
the world, as though they were victSis of the Spanish Inquisi-

THE FBINCB XZf BENGAL. I73

tion. High conical hats, long, crimson, purple, velvet gowns,
ornamented in extraordinary fashion, with bright gold braid,
and the funniest faces that could be drawn, are the characteristics
of these well-bom, highly honoured, and very excellent repre-
sentatives of the Lord of the Golden Foot. The peculiarity of
their costume is perhaps heightened by the yelloW'^plumed,
helmeted, and blue-trousered French officer from Pondicherry
who now and then turns a pirouette on his high-heeled boots.
A curious group that, and one to be regarded attentively.

Then there are the Maharajah of Cashmere, the Maharajah
of Benares, and the three sons of Jung Bahadoor, all in friendly
conversation. He of Cashmere is quietly dressed in white and
gold, is a poi*tly person of some sixty years, and is happy in the
possession of two very handsome daggers which he wears in his
cummerband or girdle. His compeer of Benares is older — a
very patriarch in fact, grey, bent, palsied — ^yet withal a grand
old fellow, gorgeously arrayed in the far-famed Khin-khob
doth, which is a handsome mixture of silk and cloth of gold,
and would make the eyes of any English dame of fashion glisten
with delight. The three young gentlemen from Kepaul are
stout, nor do they present any striking contrast to the other
notables here, except that these youngsters are more brilliant
in diamonds than most of their seniors. On the Maharajah of
Cashmere's neck is certainly a row of pearls, costly in their
way, yet only smaU pearls ; but in the turban of yonder round-
faced Bahadoor, just above the two little black eyes which can
scarcely be seen to twinkle for the fat which surrounds them,
is a diamond aigrette such as the Maharajah of Mysore would
view with interest and delight. He is not so di8tingu6 with
jewels as the chief whom we just now saw close to the prelate
of Calcutta. That potentate bought, it will be remembered,
the jewels of the Empress Eugenie, and as he stands there he is
worth three hundred thousand pounds. Still the representatives
of Jung Bahadoor are eminently respectable, and, I should say,

174 mxa tMB FSINOS or INDIA.

could sell their diamonds for as mach as would buy a consider-
ate street in the West-end of London.

^There is, however, another poste of young men who hare
claims to distinction. They are three melancholy youths, not
stout, but thin, standing dose together, but othwwise alone.
Nobody goes near them ; they are not {o-essed to ihe left and
right breasts of Eajah or Maharajah, as are all the rest we see.
Save that some political agent now and then acoosts them, they
say nothing to anybody, but stand stall and look on at all that
passes with quiet interest. In attire they resemble the old
pictures of Martin Luther — ^black, velvet caps, somewhat like
the old biretta with earlaps standing out s^*aight, long black
velvet gowns, sandalled feet, no ornaments, not even a pearl
or a diamond. Who can they be) I turn to the courteous
Colonel Martin Dillon, the secretary of Lord Kapiw, who, like
his chieftain, is in full dress covered with medals and decorations,
and from him learn that these are the grandsons of Tippoo Sahib.
Shades of the great, what a different scene do their eyes look
upon to-day from that which they would probably have witness-
ed but for the valour of British and native soldiers, and the
skill of Arthur Wellesley 1 They might have been gazing at a
successor of that most unfortunate captive. Sir David Baird,
who not so many years ago was placed in a water-wheel and
made to work it fcur the amusement of Tij^poo and his ladies.
Quien sale ? Today, these unhappy ones, ejected from Mysore,
no longer rulers of Seringapatam, stand meekly in the badk-
ground to see the Prince of the race which annihilated their
fEunily's greatness pass by in state. They are not even honour-
ed by a nod or a shake of the hand. When Tippoo fell, the
grandeur of the dynasty fell with him; that thrust of the
private soldier's bayonet in the fatal gateway not only killed
Tippoo, but upset his successors to all time.. Those young men
would not be here to-day had the Treaty of 1793 been observed.
In suoh case they would have been received with a twenl^-one

TMB FBINOB IN BENGAL. 175

gnn salute at Madras, met on the edge of the carpet, conducted
to a grand seat at the ri^ hand of the Prince, and been favour-
ed with the pleasant conyersatiQn which is now reseryed for
those who are greats than thej.

But moralising is out of place here, for we must look round
befcMre the Prince lands. There is the Maharajah of Eawah, a
fine tall man, with an astonishing aigrette of diamonds in his
cap, and splendidlj dad in bright colours. A certain lanknew
about the hair and whiskers of this notabilily perhaps awakens
suspicions ; but few are prepared to see anything half so for-
bidding as his countenance when he turns round. His face is
painted red; he must surely be a descendant of the Sandwich
or savage islanders, so curiously tattooed are his cheeks and his
forehead. Ko such thing. He is a victim to leprosy ; his ter-
rible &ce is the sign, and his feeble walk the result. Yet he is
not avoided. How could a man who carries thirty thousand
pounds' woi*& of brilliants on his turban be shunned) See, the
Maharajah of Cashmero clasps the leprous Bewah to his bosom ;
and a little stout Bajah, in a red turban, bright purple satin
coat, and light green trousers, trots up full of joy at being next
saluted. That amusing person who carries his sword before
him so carefully wrapped up in silk that it looks as bulbous as
a teapot, squeezes the red-faced Mahan^ah to his breast, and
then runs off as pleased as though he had embraced Shiva, and
Parvati into ihe bargain. It is clearly a great thing to be a
Maharajah.

Not £u* distant is a taU, fine, dear-complezioned gentleman
in a long^green robe spotted with golden stars. On his head is
a small golden crown, just like those depicted upon the school-
history likenesses of William Buf us. He has a high forehead, a
noble expression, a skin quite unsullied by leprosy ; yet there
he stands all unnoticed. Why) He is not a Prince, ''only
one of those fellows firom Oude," says an officer ; and splendid
fellow though he is, even the tainted ruler of Eewah would not

176 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

Toaohsafe to give him one salute. He might wear Mty i
he will not be squeeised to the breast of anybody hsn^
now Lord Napier of Magdala spoke to him, and here <
veteran Commander-in-Chief leading somebody else v^i
diah, who, with a yellow hat, and a white robe^ with
armlets and the riband of the Star of India over his i
sitting on a sofa. Who can help regretting that Indii^^
to lose the servioes of so far-seeing a general and so ei
diplomatist — ^more so than ever, indeed, when he graqair]
the hand, bids you welcome to Bengal, and tells yoa;!
yonr arrival at Delhi there shall be a tent for yours^'i
and a rope for your horse, and a restaurant to save joaittiMk
miles' ride into the city when the daily fighting is ov^ aai3|k|||t
need rest I A rare old soldier is Lord Napier, and you JWiMi
him for what he has done. Close behind him is Sir BidklNl
Temple, who but lately jumped from his horse, then i
a precipice, and so saved his life, and near him are 'i
Earle, Captain Evelyn Baring, and Captain E. Baria§k ^A
group of favoured ladies and gentlemen admire the case m i
the address to the Prince will be placed, a fine gold boZi i
ornamented, the treasure casket of Calcutta eloquenoo
loyalty.

Meanwhile the guns of the men-of-war blazed away, i
sixty-four converted making but a feeble boom when o(Mn|
with the ear-splitting crash of their seven-inch rivals ; and Sfl^
Boyal Highness made for the shore, followed and precededjjttt
his followers and retainers. At length they landed, aaS.jjS'
number of Baboos, officers, gentlemen in cocked hats, whi» Ij^
longed to the Legislative Council, and others, crowded rotgtA
his Bojal Highness, while the chief policeman, Mr. StttM
Hogg, read very deliberately. This is however, mere goeiri^
work. From my coign of vantage I could see the deputation
nod their heads at what appeared to be paragraphs in a mudi-
admired address; the Prince also bowed in retuin, and it was

MB FRINGE IN BENGAL. 177

evident that he was saying something. When the inaudible
business was over, all joined in the cheer which saluted his
Boyal HighnesSi as he moved towards the pavilions. There
was very little enthusiasm at Bombay, less at ColombOi still
less at Madras; here there was a genuine English shout of
joyous greeting, and it was prolonged long after the Royal party
reached the pavilion.

In the midst of all this there are presentations — the Viceroy
presenting the Bajah of Cashmere and Holkar, next Kewah^
and after that Prince Scindiah, who all stand in the order they
themselves choose, and shake hands with the Prince with great
cordiality. How for each the Prince has a pleasant word, how
it takes nearly twenty minutes to shake hands with them all,
and how, when his Boyal Highness left the arch, a louder cheer
than ever was given, can be imagined. Nor need the order of
the procession be given, since the Viceroy and the Prince must
necessarily occupy the same carriage ; and it "boots not for the
English people to kiiow whether the members of Council rode
before or behind his Boyal Highness. Suffice it to say that,
escorted by volunteers and native troops, always cheered by the
people, and at one place saluted by the school children of Cal-
cutta^ who sang a new version of the National Ani^m, he at
length passed the gates of Government House, and took up
residence in that magnificent building.. I should not omit to
mention that next day a local newspaper appeared in deep
mourning, in consequence of the address having been read by
the police superintendent.

That night the streets and squares of Calcutta were in a
blaze of light. The place which has been justly called the city
of palaces, was lit up in so artistic a style as to bring to mind
the grandest tales of the '< Thousand and One Nights.'' In the
luminous atmosphere, dusky forms, clad in Oriental garments,
flitted about noiselessly by thousands; palankeen beavers,
coaches, buggies, and bullock vehicles were carJTing unwonted

178 WITE THE PEINCS IN INDIA.

loads ; and Christmas Eve was a night of jovialitj in honoor of
the Prince. I widi I could portray to you, as vividly ai I saw it^
the beauty of the scena No Aladdin was needed te cry new
lamps in exchange for old; every building seemed to be one
yast lamp full of oil and light. The resources of the East and
West were brought into play togethw, Hindoos and Moham-
medans, under a celebrated local firm, and English makers and
designers, joining to decorate this already handsome dty.
There were stars and crosses, all kinds of devices, such as Bir-
mingham, Sheffield, and London delight in on great days (^
festivity, in gas, and in addition to these, thousands of oil lamps
hung in festoons and loops, or stretched over the roads in
arches, covering fronts of houses and walls, and the railings of
the squares. It was, without doubt, the grandest Chi^itmas
Eve Calcutta had ever seen, a night of great and unalloyed re-
joicing. And Christmas Day itself was to be kept this year
in real English fieushion by a Prince and his followers, and by
hundreds of Englishmen and Englishwomen, in the EmjMie
city of Calcutta ; while ih&t night we began the festivity by
lighting up the streets, as they never had been before, in honaor
of the Boyal visitor and the Eoyal visiti

CHAPTER XVI.

▲ SUNDAY IN CALCUTTA.

SundaTS in Calcutta are not spent at the Zoo for the very
sufficient reason that Calcutta has till lately had no Zoological
Gardens in which to' spend its after-church Sunday. But it
has long had its own fashionable resort, for all that ; and while
people in England were buttoning their overcoats and putting
thick gloves on, preparatory to taking their favourite race
through the frost-bitten gardens in Regent's Park, Calcutta —
that is to say, of course, European Calcutta — ^having achieved
its devotions at cathedral, church, and chapel, in accordance
with the fashionable method out here, was getting ready to
move off to the Botanical Gardens, which lie on the opposite
side of the grand river Hooghly. It was Christmas-tide, and
the good old Bishop, since dead, had droned out the last sen-
tence of what at one time promised to be an endless sermon ;
the choir had sung the fifth and last hymn ; the Offertory had
been made, and sixpences had been furtively slipped into red
velvet bags which certainly should have opened to nothing less
than rupees ; and the organist was thundering ** For unto us a
Child is bom," when one of the gentlemen who had just made
the collection stepped across the aisle of the church and invited
me to luncheon. All innocent of Botanical Gardens, and far
away from the guidance of any member of the Sunday Observ-
ance Society, my thoughts naturally turned in the direction of
a sober meal within four white walls, under a waving breeze-
making punkah, somewhere in the suburbs of Calcutta. But,
to my surprise, the carriage of this estimable and hospitable
person stopped neither at staid-looking bungalow nor white*

180 TFITH THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

fitoed house ; but, passing under the triumphal arch which had
welcomed the Prince on the day of his landing, pulled up at
the water's edge, dose to a dingy, in which sat four or five
semi-nude boatmen*

Would you know what a dingy is I Then take the shabbiest
gondola that Yenice can furnish, knock off all that is orna-
mental in the shape of carved prow or stem, move the covered
seats in the centre to one end of the craft, give it a flush deck,
and thereupon place four not handsome native rowers, and you
have a first-dass dingy— just such a one as we entered on that
bright Sunday afternoon.

We were not alone in our expedition, for already seated in
the dingy were four or five gentlemen who, unlike ourselves,
had not been to cathedral, and from whom I learnt that our
ultimate destination was the Botanical Grardens, where we
should have to lunch on the grass '' the same," my informant
continued, '^ as everybody in Calcutta does.** Onward the boat
sped towards the other side of the liver, where the sail was to
be hoisted. On the Hooghly was many another craft of the
same description ; some with parties of intending lunch-takers,
and others with parties of intended lunch-makers; namely,
servants who were carrying boatloads of provisions and wine
to the place for which we were bound. StUl, there was no un-
seemly noise ; nothing like the hideous cackle of the catamaran
rowers at Colombo. There, if you would be quiet on the water,
you would have to b^ your boatmen as a particular favour not
to sing the songs they love, else you would be treated to a
series of yells compared with which a London street singer's
melodies would be agreeable music. And even then you would
be startled every minute or so by the eternal ** La ilia, la, la^
la," wafted from some other boat on those troublous waters.
Here, however, there was no " singing," only the steady f^ash
of the oars in the water as we passed along the bank of the
nver*

A SUNDAY IN CALCUTTA. 181

Respecting the Hoogbly at the point where it pierces Cal-
cutta, there is not much to be said. It is rather more nnin-
teresting than the Thames below Gravesend; about as wide,
but less turbulent, though more turbid. On one hand stands
the city proper— on the other a long line of cotton-spining fac-
torieSy which promise .some day or another, according to local
prqphetSy to be an exceeding trouble to Manchester wd a great
source of supply for the London market But as you pass down
the river you find the scenery more diversified. On one side is
the present residence of the ex-King of Oude, with its gardens
and pleasaunces, on the other the Botanical Gardens. It was
at a little landing-stage attached to these last i^t we stepped
ashore, walking now up a slight incline to a shady spot, where,
under aromatic trees of great beauty, we found seats and a
tablecloth spread on the grass, with a luncheon fit for the Prince
himself. Guards, too, there were— coloured gentlemen armed
with sticks, who were waving them about as fiercely as though
a band of Dacoits were somewhere in the bushes. Tet there
could not be Dacoits in the gardens, and the bunch of squalid
Hindoos who were squatted on the pathway some little distance
off scarcely required such a display of force to keep them &om
the cold game-pie or the sherry. They looked hungry enough —
were hungry, too. Heaven knows ; and their reason for squat-
ting in the pathway was, without doubt, the hope of getting
just one mouthful of something to eat presently — just as a
pariah dog dose by them came there in search of a bone ; but
they no more dared to seize upon the boiled leg of mutton,
steaming hot and savoury, with the turnips and carrots artisti-
cally and temptingly arrayed on a great dish, than they would
dream of plundering Government House.

Where was the enemy, theni We had scarcely sat down
when we discovered that recondite foe. One of the party had
helped himself to a choice slice of beef. On the joint itself was
a Government mark of undoubted genuineness; indicating that

182 WITR THE FBINOB IN INDIA.

the beef was of the ycry best quality, in acoordanoe with mlea
laid down for the gnidance of meat inspectors in the Calcutta
markets from time immemorial. But neither inspector's mark
— the comer o^ the cross was on that identical slice — ^nor the
sticks of the guardians (^ the feast could save that unlucky
morseL Down from the sky above us, at a moment when
least expected, swooped a voracious kite. like a flash of light-
ning that unconscionable bird, utterly regardless of the rights
of property, and not caring a single snap of the bill for inspec-
tor or proprietor, came through the picnic party, and, seizing
that choice cut of beef, flew alofb and away before we could
utter the Hindostanee equivalent of the proverbial ^'Jack
Robinson.** That was the thief, then, against whom the zimd
with the sticks were warring ; that was the marauder against
whom they had to fight ; and, worse than all, his friends and
acquaintances were hovering by the score, about forty feet above
us, ready to seize the rest of the provisions if only we would
let them. Had we only got one of the descendants of the IxMrd
Cardinal of Rheims there, he might have *' solemnly cursed that
rascally thief,'' and, perchance, brought him to repentance, just
as the great Lord Cardinal himself dealt with the jackdaw that
stole the ring ; but we had no <me amongst us who oould lay
the slightest claim to belonging to the Kheims Cardinal's family.
So we had to sit a little closer, advise the guards to wave their
sticks more fiercely, and to watch the kites more closely. It
was necessary, I firmly believe, to eat things as quickly as
possible ; even the beer seemed in danger, though, so far as I
could learn, the most voracious and reckless kite had never
been seen to fly away with a bottle of Allsopp. Yet, with the
Darwinian theory oi natural selection before us, and the possi-
bility that in course of time some elderly kite might possibly
have advanced from the seizing of eatables to the purloining
of drinkables, we disposed of what potions we had brought with
us, and presently adjourned to the great banyan tree, of which
Calcutta and the chief of the Botanical Gardens are proud.

A SUNDAY m OALOUTTA, 183

There is always some satisfaction in seeing tbe largesi gpetA-
men of any parfdcalar elass — ihe biggest baloon, the highest
mountain, the hngest ship. "We went to the largest banyan tree
in the world. I know that in Gurorat there is a ti^ of this
class which claims the premier place; also, that at Barrack-
pore there is a banyan of undonbted respectability. But the
Calcutta c^>ecimen is, after all, the king. You could bivouac
a whole regiment of soldiers comfortably under its branches;
if you had it in your garden there would be room for nothing
else, but you might lire under its shade and call it your " roof
tree ** with some propriety. Indeed, in one respect, it is not
altogeth^ unlike the Hall c^ a Thousand Pillars — ^for the
banyan tree has <me great peculiarity which is not generally
known in England. From its branches drop feelers or hangers,
somewhat in the way that the strawberry plant's feelers spread
out, and, there taking root, become eventually strong trunks
themselves, several feet in girth, and the parents of other roots
again. In this way the space under the tree is filled with
pillars of wood, behind which you could hide, and between
which lovers were seated, and — ^what is still more sad — some
were playing what Cromwell designated " that most ungodly
game of kiss-in-the-ring." Others, too, were picnicing under
the umbrageous shade of this grand tree, which is never aught
but green summer or winter, while more were perched on the
branches which extend in almost every direction for very many
yards. I say "almost," because the tree, curiously enough,
has not shot out a single tendril towards the north, but confines
its leafy shade to other parts of the compass. But that scarcely
detracts from its beauty ; it covers a huge circular space from
the heat of the sun, and constitutes a marvel of which Calcutta
may weU be proud.

Of the gardens themselves, I scarcely think so much could be
said. They are not to be compared with those of Kandy, either
in beauty of landscape or rarity of plants. Palms are plentiful ;

184 WITH THB FBINOB IN INDIA.

but where are the vaaillay with its wonderful pods, the pictu-
resque plantain, the lovely pommelo, or the leafy nutmeg tree I
Where are the groves which make Peradinya so lovely — ^where
the rich clusters of flowers that load the air with perfume)
There is nothing like ih&t here. The groves are thin, even the
fernery is small ; a vast e^qianse of plain, barely covered with
trees and plants, constitutes these gardens. Yet bordering on
the Hooghly, they are a great source of comfort to European
Calcutta on Sunday, and we, in going thither, only did what
all the world and his wife in these warm regions do. Before
night had set in, or the church bells for evening service had
sounded, we had once more landed on the opposite shore, all
the fresher and more gladsome for our pleasant picnic on the
grass.

CHAPTER XVII.

. . POICPtAYING AJSfJ> SXAKE-CHABMIKO.

Cncket at Lord^ lawn tennis at Prince's, football at Bt^by,
racing at Epsom-«-are seen at their best. But to leam how-
polo should be played you should have spent an hour on the
Maidan at Calcutta, a large, open, grass-covered space, when
there were galloping there at a terrific pace fourteen s^ni-sav-
age Munipuris. I do not for a moment desire to disparage the
feats of Mr. Murietta, or any of the other gentlemen whose
powers with the polo stick are undoubted. But of this I am
sure, that there is not an admirer of polo at home or in India
who would grudge to award the palm of superiority to these
masters of the game. It was with no small feeling of pleasure
that I received an invitation to attend a polo match, at which
it y as expected the Prince and Viceroy would be present. To
aee the Munipuris play would be to see the style of the tribes
who first taught India, and, through India, England, this plea-
sant athletic diversion. How well l^eir skill had been main-
tained had been already shown, when the savages beat the
skilled horsemen of Calcutta with a rapidity and ease that
greatly surprised the Europeans.

It was four o'clock in the afternoon when, by the aid of a
policeman, who gently whipped my recalcitrant coachman, I
reached the Maidan. The driver having an eye to that honest
penny which it is the ambition g£ every Hindoo to turn as fre-
quently as possible, had made arrangements to use the vehicle
which I had hired for the day as a hack carriage for people
attending the Prince's lev^e, and at such moments as he found
himself unwatched carried out his project with considerable

12

186 WITH THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

energy. An unexpected demand, therefore, i^t he ahould
bend the carriage wheels in the direction of the Maidan met
with something very like rebellion — a reprehensible state of
affairs which it was necessary to deal witL Keason at length
prevailed; the troublesome worshipper of Siva was persuaded
to do his duty, and an hour's drive brought us to the place
where we would be.

There was no overlooking the workmanlike appearance of the
Munipuris; both they and their ponies were ready for any-
thing. These latter were scarcely over 11 hands high, but as
strong as lions and as fleet as deer, somewhat shaggy, but under
extraordinary control. The saddles were broad, and had the
fronts turned over in such a way as to give the rider the
strongest possible grip ; the stirrup leathers so short that the
knees of the player were actually higher than the top of the
saddle. To guard the flanks of the pony, on eitl^er side a thick
piece of hide, about eighteen inches -deep and two feet long, was
hung, strongly secured by thongs of leather, Itnd, to give addi-
tional protection to the knees of the rider, this hide was also
turned round at the ends. For the rest, the trappings of the
ponies were very ornate. Woollen rosettes and balls of varied
colours hung all round them, giving a pretty effect when the
animals were in rapid motion. The men were habited in a
turban tightly fastened on to the head, close-fltting jackets,
seven dark and seven light, ornamented with golden spangles.
On their legs were thick leather guards, extending a little above
their knees. Fastened to their left wrists were the thongs of a
whip. A short white gown completed their dress. The sticks
they carried were about 4ft. Gin. in length, made of the lightest
bamboo, with the cross-piece at the end rather more slanted
than those used at Hurlingham, or, indeed, in Calcutta. Th^^e
were three ridiculously-dressed men for keeping the ground,
each clad in a long white gown, and a cap with three points of
the exact pattern worn by English downs, and wanting only

rOLO'PLAtim AND 8NAKU-CHABMING. 187

the bells to be the perfection of ugliness. The ball used was
about the size of a cricket ball, and was made from the root of
1^ bamboo, being subjected to a drying process lasting over
nearly a year before fit for use. There were no goal posts; the
area, which was in the form of a parallelogram, was marked
out by a deeply-cut line in the grass, over which the players
did not hesitate to rush occasionally, to the discomfiture and
terror of on-lopkers.

While all this was being noted, those invited were gathering*
The Viceroy and his staff— whether the Prince eventually came
I do not know — a few Maharajahs, some American generals
who chanced to be in Calcutta, a few officers from the camp,
and a carriage or two full of ladies, together with a score or so
of gentlemen from Calcutta, composed the spectators. The con-
test had been kept secret, in order that the Prince, in case he
might find time to attend, might do so without being mobbed.
At length the players rang© themselves tip on two sides, very
close to each other, the dark jackets facing the north. The
ball is thrown in, and the game begins. We notice that it is
caught up and sent whirling over the heads of the dark jackets.
Helter-skelter they go into a terrible rush, the leather fiank
guards clattering against the sides of the saddle with a noise
like that of small drums, the white ball constantly in the air,
but still getting nearer and nearer the goal of the dark jackets.
They fight with tremendous bravery, and at one moment rally
so strongly as to force their opponents back some yards. But
it is only for an instant ; the next sees a white jacket, standing
in the stirrups, with his head bent lower than that of his horse,
fly past, and then, turning round, swing his arm over the hind-
quarters of his pony, and, acliieving that most difficult stroke
known to polo-players, land the ball in the enemy's goal.

Back they go at once to the centre of the ground, and again
the ball is thrown. This time the struggle is even more
exciting, for the ponies have entered thoroughly into the spiiit

18a WITH THB FMJNCE IN INDU

of the game, and require no lashes from the vhip-thongs which
are on the lefib wrists of the riden^ Indeed, it would go ill
with the players if they did ; for, curiously enough the game
is almost wholly a lefb-handed fight, and is won by a iefb-hand
stroke, given by a white jacket again. The friends of the dark
jackets are somewhat disheartened this time, and a Calcutta
]K)lo-player who is seated on a splendid little pony of about 12
hands gives it as his opinion that he could beat " any of those
fellows easily." Not so easily, though ; for the next goal and
the next are won by them, and now comes the conquering gama
I do not think there is a single spectator w.ho is not carried
away by the enthusiasm of the moment. The sound of martial
music in the camp close at hand ; the red orb of the sun as just
before it goes to rest it lights up the open work of a neighbouring
church steeple ; the palatial houses of Calcutta in the distance ; the
long lines of green trees which surround the Maidan; and more
than all, the appearance of that little corps of horsemen and their
steeds panting alike for excitement and want of breath, all com-
bine to give interest to the scene. I could conceive of Mr. Pick-
wick himself hazarding a rupee on the chances of the struggle.
At last the ball is thrown once more, and before we can get out
of the way the ponies are nearly upon us, for the white bamboo-
root comes skimming along over ihe boundary, and is out.
Back it goes again only to meet with a like fate ; and a third
time expectation is at its highest. This time the issue is decided.
For nearly five minutes the struggle continues. A great dog
rushes away from its master into the very thick of the fray, and
speedily comes back sadder and wiser. Then the group breaks,
and there is a rush to the white goal which bids fair to succeed ;
but unhappily at the supreme moment two green jackets
cannon against each other, and roll over on the grass. Though
they rise at once, and join in the battle, the ball speeds its way
towards the other goal. One desperate cfibrt is made. A
'^hite lacket is tearing along in chase of the little sphere, and

FOLO-FLAYINQ AND SNAKS-CBASMINa. 189

about to strike it a final blow, when an opponent catches him
and entangles his stick in his owiL It is useless. Another
white jacket is dose behind, and with a tremendous cut he
sends the ball over the heads oi the rivals, and -gains the fifth
victory. Of course, we applaud iMs feat, and, as it is rapidly-
becoming dark, hasten across the grass to congratulate the
rid^:s and pat ishe ponies, which, strange to say, after the
stupendous efibrts they have made, are still fresh and just as
ready as ever to rush into the fight once more. It is too late ;
in the distance the triumphal arches are being lit up ; lights are
ra^Hdly extendii^ along the streets. We must return to the
city.

To leave Calcutta without seeing the snakes at the Oeneral
Hospital would have been an omission of which, at any rate,
we could not be guilty. Accordingly it was with great pleasure
that I accepted an invitation to visit the collection. Bear in
mind that no snake-charmer was present, that neither pipe nor
whistle was used, that every snake had its poison fangs or
teeth in capital order, and that no* means save the marvellous
skill of the native operators was employed in the exhibition
which followed, and you will have a good idea of the peril
tiirough which those Hindoos passed.

It was early in the morning — not, however, before the
snakes, which were in a series of wire-covered boxes, were
awake and lively — ^that we were shown into a stone-floored
room some twenty feet long and twelve broad. In the boxes
were the strongest and deadliest snakes in India : pythons,
ophiophagi, oobi*as, korites, Kussel snakes, and many others.
The Hindoos who had charge ci them were two slim, wiry, little
men, nude to the waist, as most of their countrymen are. They
wore neither gloves nor any other protection, and had no instru-
ment of any kind in the place; After showing the varied col-
lection under their care, they proceeded to open the python
cage, and one of them, putting his hand in, seized a monster

190 TFITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

serpent and threir him upon the floor close to our feet. The
python objected to such treatment, and began to hiss, making
at the same time a vigorous effort to rise. But the snake-
keeper was waiting for this, and no sooner did that huge shining
back begin to curve than the keeper put out his hand, and
seizing the creature's tail, pulled it back with a jerk. Instantly
the python was powerless — hissing, but unable to move ; the
more he struggled the more tenaciously did the keeper hold his
taU, explaining meanwhile that so long as the reptile was con-
trolled in that fashion there was no danger of its doing mis-
chief ; then, just as its rage was becoming ungovernable, the man
lifted it quickly, and with a jerk deposited it in the box. Its
companion was now taken out in similar manner, and slapped
and buffeted till throughout its entire length, some twelve feet,
it quivered with passion, but all to no purpose ; it, too, waa pre-
sently replaced in the cage, and shut up to hiss at its leisure.

The fact that an ophiophagus is in the Regent's Park Zoo-
logical Gardens, rendered the next exhibition more interesting,
although it may be doubted whether the sudden throwing into
so small a room of a snake seven feet long was agreeable to the
visitors. However, there was really no danger, for the veno-
mous creature was so completely in its keeper's power that we
had no occasion for fear. One bite from the reptile, and any
one of us would have been dead in five minutes, for it was
exceptionally strong and lively; but it was no more able to bite
us than the little mongoose caged outside the door. Up rose
its head, out came its slithering tongue, its eyes dilated, its
huge throat swelled, and all seemed ready for a desperate
attack, when the keeper struck the reptile's mouth with the
back of his hand, and, before it could strike him, had seized it
just under the head. Then it struggled, but only to get away
— ^it had met that native before,- and did not at all approve of his
treatment. The other native now seized its centre and tail,
and, without more ado, the terrible creature was hoisted into

POLO-PLAYINa AND SNAKB^CHARMING. 191

the air as harmless as a hntterQj, and its fangs exposed by the
aid of a small piece of wire. Those teeth were literally full of
poison — enough to have killed a dozen persons. At length,
Oiiir cariosity satisfied, this monster was put into his cage, and
his brother plucked out by the naked native, with the hand,
and thrown on the floor. He, too, was truculent for a minute,
endeavouring to follow the unpantalooned Hindoo round the ,
room; but he had reckoned without his host, or rather his
keeper, for he was seized presently by the tail and hoisted up
just as the other had been. In vain he hissed and spat His
tongue might move in and out as often as it pleased, but all to
no purpose ; whether on the floor or in ihe air its efforts to bite
were perfectly unavailing, and when the cage was opened it
slunk in, a disconcerted serpent.

A cobra was the next to be turned out, a strong, healthy
snake, nearly five feet in length, with a hood the power of mov-
ing which somewhat startled us. But move as it might, the
agile native was too quick for it. He would put his knee
within a foot of it, as it stood up ready to strike, and it would
make a dart as futile, however, as it was sudden. Then it
would hiss, as though hoping to frighten its adversary; it might
as well have hii^ed at the wall. And, just when it had got up
again, and was so enraged that it could scarcely wait for a good
importunity to strike at the native's knee, which was moving
before it in a most tantalizing manner, the keeper's hand was
quietly placed under its head, and it was removed like its pre-
decessors, "Will it biter I asked. "See," said the native.
Taking up a piece of bamboo stretched across a shell, he held
the wood to the serpent's mouth. Instantly the reptile seized
the proffered bait, its eyes glistening, its neck distended, and
crunched the wood as though it was tinder. Two or three
moments elapsed as the teeth penetrated further into the fibre,
and then we saw the poison falling in white drops into the
shdl, which acted as a kind of saucer. I was particular in

192 WITH THE FBINCB IN INDIA.

noticing two points in reigard to tUs incident : firsti that the
poiscm did not come ftam ihe fangs immediatelj.ihe bite was
inflicted — a fact whicli will account £ar the mongoose livii^
sometimes after he is bitten bj the oolnra; imd, next, that the
quantity of v^iom emitted was much greater than is generaliy
supposed. There were five or six large white drops in the sh^
and probably <me or two absorbed in the bamboo. Wh^ forced
to surrender the wood the serpent seemed by no means ok-
hausted; the fibre was much tcnrn^ for the teeth had penetrated
nearly a quarter of an iach.

For all that, I should mention that when presently anothw
cobra equally large was examined, it was shown that the teeth
were set back some distance in the head, and that they were by
no means so large as those of a viper which was shown afterr
wards, and whidi was so quick in its movements that it had to
be lifted out of its box by means of a hooked stick. Cobras
and ophiophagi might be seized by the hand, but not so this
huge viper, which made such desperate attempts to strike fm»
or two of us, that we were by no means sorry when the keeper
seized him by the neck and tail and opened his mouth. His
fangs were undoubtedly large— larger than the cobra's by one
half, and very strong. They must have cojitained a great
quantity of venom. However, he was not invited to try them,
and by the time he got back into his box, was, I think, heartily
tired of the exhibition. A Bussell snake, with a gdden spotted
back, was the next on the floor, and it hissed violently, but was
taken up just as easily as the others afker it had been provoked
to a great ragi for several minutes. A korite, proverbiaUy
deadly, had been played so many tricks before that it was slow
to take part in the fun. Once or twice it struck viciously at
the ke^)er, but without any eflect, and at last ceased to make
any effort to bite the Hindoo. There was no need to play a
pipe or tom-tom to awe that snake. It was only too glad to get
away into his blanket and box again.

POLO-PLATING AND BNAKB-CBARMINQ. 193

The exhibition was ended by the showing a bisoobra, or small
gnava. What cared we for a wretched snake-charmer, who,
with a few seigpents whose feuigs had been abstracted, a lot of pipes
and charming sticks, and all kinds of protections, waited out-
side, and offered to give us an entertainment 1 After such an
exhibition as we had witnessed the cleverest snake-charmer was
the merest impostor. Passing across the grounds, a valuable
piece of information was given us. Chained to a wall was a
pariah dog, with a severe wound on one of its legs. This animal,
we were informed, had been experimented upon by Dr. Wall
with wonderful success ; a large quantity of cobra poison had
been injected under its skin, and yet it had been recovered by an
antidote which Dr. Wall is said to have discovered. More may
probably be heard of this. In the hospital visitors' book was a
note in the writing of the Prince : " I am very much pleased
with the hospital, which I find in good order, and well venti-
lated. Albert £h>WABD, Jan. 1.,'' — ^the signature of the Duke
of Sutheriand being also appended. A little lower down was a
similar certificate from Dr. Fayrer. The hospital certainly
deserves 1^ highest encomium.

CHAPTEE XVIIL

▲ CAPnVB KING.

Wajid Alee, ex-King of Oude, is too well known in history
to need much description; but of what sort is the fioyal
prison in which he is now confined very few out of the pre-
cincts of Calcutta Appear to have any idea; and it was with
this impression that I accepted the kind permission of Colonel
Mowbray Thompson to visit the residence of the ex-King.

A drive of nearly an hour by the side of the Hooghly brought
me to an imposing gateway, guarded by troops. Not English
soldiers, mark, nor, indeed, sepoys in English pay, but men
belonging to his ex-Majesty of Oude, of the same t3rpe and
costume as those good fellows who committed the butcheries
at Cawnpore and elsewhere. However, they were undoubtedly
civil, and I was quickly admitted to what at first sight ap-
peared to be an admirably designed garden. I think it. is Miss
Carpenter who advocates the plan of endeavouring to reform
criminals by making delightful residences of gaols. If her
theory is right, Wajid Alee should certainly be reformed by
this time, for a more lovely succession of groves, parterres,
miniature park-like plots of grass and pleasant terraces I have
never seen. And what was more astonishing still to me was
to discover in these grounds a zoological collection surpassing
in many respects the grand menagerie in Regent's Park, ^t
first^the prospecty however, was forgotten for a moment in the
contemplation of one of those extraordinary pictures for which
India is famous. Hung in a large window in such a manner
that all its beauty, or rather ugliness, should burst upon the
spectator at once, this wonderful daub portrayed a battle-piece.

^ A CAPTrrS KING. 195

of wMck the locale pight perhaps be the Crimea. One thing
was channixig about the object, and only one — its absolute im-
partiality. A Eussian officer, with a lobster-coloured face, was
cutting down a French soldier ; while an English infantryman
was bayoneting in the most satisfactory manner a Kussian who
had injudiciously planted his back against the side of a gun.
I think the fight might be described as ending in the defeat of
the French by the Kussians and the rout of the Eussians by
the English, which doubtless appeared the most satisfactory
result of the struggle to the artist engaged*

A step morej and the celebrated pigeons of the ex-King were
in full view. I do not wonder at their being famous ; you in
England have no idea of what Wajid Alee has achieved. It
would be no exaggeration to say that many scores of varieties,
most of them surpassingly beautiful, appear in every direction.
I am not an ornithologist — I do not know the name of a single
pigeon ; yet my uninstructed eye was delighted with the success
of the Royal breeder. If he did not succeed as a potentate, it
was because he was accidentally placed in a position for which
nature did not intend him. He should have been a gentleman
of moderate means residing somewhere in the South of Eng-
land; his skill and his patience would have astonished his rivals;
he would have gained prizes everywhere, and everybody would
have united to praise him. He was unfortunately a King,
and all his excellencies are forgotten in the one fact that
he was a Royal failure. He is as fond of the birds as ever,
and here, in the centre of the garden set apart for them, has a
pretty little bungalow, furnished in Oriental fashion, with a
couch at each window, on which he can recline and look at the
pets that brought him into trouble. There are not many men
who, if they lost a kingdom for the sake of pigeon-breeding,
would take great pleasure in that particular hobby afterwards.
Thus thinking, we passed into another garden, walled in, and
in its centre boasting of a marble tank of extraordinary dimen-

196 WITH THE PRINCS IN INDIA. %

siona I should say, ronglily i^>eakiiig, that it is a hundred and
fifty yards square ; it is very deep, the water is clear, and on
its surface ta^d at its sides are ducks r.nd fowl of all kinds.
Scores of pelicans, divers, teal, swans, curious ducks with won*
derfnl plumage, storks, cranes, and peacocks wander all over
the garden or go to idie tank as they please. They are in no
confined cage, cramped up in a space of twenty feet square as
in London, but roam all about the delightful square in the
bright sunshine, chirping, cackling, hissing, and chattering, and
witiial as happy as though all the world was before thenv
H^re and there an unruly one is confined in a large pagoda-Hke
cage till he learns to do well ; but these moral lessons do not
appear to be often needed, fdr there are onlv some twenty
ne'er-do-wells in custody. Perhaps the prisoner of Oude is
tend^ to evil-doers.

Our next step was into another walled-off space which is
e'v^n more notpworthy. Here there are several large tanks,
ttee& of abundant foliage offer opportunities of shade, and lux-
uriant climbing plants cover the sides of the enclosure. Here
are buffaloes, goats, deer, and almost every species of herbivor-
ous animal in nature, and the larger birds as well. As you
stand under a tree you may be gently brushed by the featbers
of a passing ostrich, who winks at you confidentially as he
makes his way to a choice box of food he sees at a little dis-
tance, and which a cousin for whom it was brought has not
noticed yet; or you may be prodded in the back by the horn
of a sacred bull as he hints to you the necessity of getting out
of his way. Indeed, if you would avoid having to beg the par-
don of a resident bird or beast, you must be careful not to walk
about quickly, for they are all around you, and, as the weather
is exceedingly pleasant, are apparently taking a ''constitutional"
preparatory to the afternoon dinner. It is a grand idea of the
ex-King to give his mute subjects so much liberty; human
beings would not have had the same amount had the mutiny

A CAPTIVE KIN&. 197

succeeded and he remained at Luc^now. But that k a detail
into which we need not enquire too deeply. Lees fortunate
are the ferae which are in an adjoining enclosure. It clearly
would be a mistake to let half-ar4ozen ^lergetic panthers, or a
leopard w two, loose in any garden, particularly if visitors
were invited to enter promiscuously. I saw a couple of chee-
tahs in a cage who would soon clear the place of its attendants
— ^three Bajahs, who, in purple and gold, were seated comfort-
ably under an arbour, and a Hindoo gentlemen, who was
apparently engaged in worshipping the sacred Beble tree. Of
tigers, there are, singularly enough, none ; the two that were
here have just died ; but there is a pair of wolves who would
do nearly as much mischief if turned loose, and, fastened imder
a tree by a strong iron chain, is an enormous stag, with antlers
nearly two yards long, who would be only too happy to be lib-
erated for a moment; indeed, he made several attempts to
reach the Hindoo gentleman, but fortunately fedled. Of jackdls,
too, there are soma good specimens, but that is a superfluity,
for you can see as many as you wish any night in the less-fre-
quented streets of Calcutta, and will certainly be awakened by
them unless you live in the busiest part of the city. Hyenas
and foxes, porcupines, and mimy other uncomfortable animals,
from the lion to the mongoose, are here, and, if this collection
is not so large as ihe other, its deficiencies are more than com-
pensated for by what we next see.

In the centre of another garden, beautifully laid out, and
superior in point of style to most of those in England or France,
there is a structure of singular description. In form at a short
distance it looks like a magnified ant-hill, in three conical
portions, and the fact that its sides are full of round holes confirms
£[ir a momenir the suspicion that it has been produced by some
huge insects, and must now be their abodes But it is nothing
of the sort. Constructed with enormous care, this extraordinary
building is seen on closer inspection to be the work of human

198 WITH THE PBIlfCB IN INDIA.

hands. Its base is fixed in a large square well, and is sarroimded
l^ water ; you note, too, that the sides of the excavation arch
inward, a& though to prevent the escape of something or oth^
but of what it is not very dear. All over these cones, which
rise to a height of about thirty feet, and are more than six times
that distance in circumference, are little spikes of iron; the
holes are about three inches in diameter, and are very numerous.
While we are wondering what can be the use of this building,
our eyes light on a couple of big cages in the centre, looking
into which we descry two of the largest pythons ever captured.
At a rough guess they must be thirty or forty feet long, and
their bulk is tremendous. We at once divine that the structure
is a snake-house, and, looking up again, remark that in almost
every hole the head of a snake may be seen. While we watch,
too, a long cobra slowly emerges into the sunlight, clasps one of
the iron spikes by its tail, and so swings himself into an opening
a little lower down. Every minute, too, serpents are to be
seen moving in and out as though they are engaged in mcarning
calls or shopping. It is by no means a pleasant idea that
creeps over us just then. What if that arched wall and narrow
stream of water failed to sufice for the imprisonment of these
animals ) There are five hundred of them in all, of which I
learn that half are venomous, and they all look strong and
healthy enough when two men come up with some baskets of
frogs, and throw the chirping struggling creatures to the snakes.
Out rushes every member of the colony, and, for a few moments^
the frogs have a very uncomfortable time. Some of them are
seized by two serpents at once, and are rent in halves forthwith ;
some are bolted before they have time to jump an inch, and all
of them are disposed of in ten minutes. Then the snakes go
back to their holes, some pieces of meat are given to the pythons,
and you move away. Not out of the gardens yet, however, for
we must first of all go through an immense series of huge cages,
full of small birds of lovely and varied plumage, and past

A CAPTIVE KING. 199

another of the six residences belonging to the Maharajah.
There is little here, however, that we do not see in every rich
Hindoo's house; scores of shilling German-manufactured coloured
prints representing girls smoking cigarettes, the Madonna and
Child, the Emperor "William, and Teuton farmers and dairy-
maids ; a collection of chandeliers, such as would fill a large
shop, and a great number of couches. Gubbins, in his
" Mutinies of Oude," says that Wajid Alee was a man of con-
siderable taste. If that is so, he must have left the furnishing
of his domicile to some such genius as he who decorated the
palaces of the Guicowar of Baroda. The gardens, the zoological
collection, the bungalows themselves, are well-nigh enchanting ;
and we are careful liot i6 lose so pleasant an impression by a
prolonged inspection of the intenor of the habitations. In such
a mood we pass once more through the gateway, leaving the ex-
King of Oude alone in his glory.

CHAPTER XIX

LIFS IN CALCUTTA.

It has been properly remarked that a ball is a ball all the
world over. There is the eternal quadrille to begin with ; you
are sure to waltz, galop, and polka; and although now and then
the air may be different, the measure is the same, and such a
thing as a new kind of dance seems unknown to the polished
floor of conventional society. For this reason it is absolutely
unnecessary to describe at any length the ball which was given
at Grovemment House, Calcutta. That the Prince danced
heartily and laughed merrily, that there was a tremendous
crush in ball-room and supper-room alike, and that the tune of
" We won't go home till morning " might have been appro-
priately hummed by everybody present, is all that need be said.
But a garden party at Calcutta is a different thing from an
English yefe champStre, At a garden party at home you have
the same pathways to traverse, the same flower-beds to admire,
the same people to converse with, the same tent for champagne
and ice, time after time ; the same band plays the same tunes ;
you go at the same hour and you leave at the same moment;
there is nothing fresh except the breeze, which makes a garden
party pleasant. In India all this is reversed. Let us repair
to Belvedere, the residence of Sir Eichard Temple, Lieutenant
Governor of the Bengal Presidency.

Unless you have been in an Indian equestrian crowd before,
your patience will be sorely tried. Oriental imperturbability
may not be yours, any more than it belongs to an artillery
officer who is close to us, and who is just now yelling at his
driver. A thousand vehicles of all kinds are jammed t(>gether

UFE IN CALCUTTA. 201

in a very narrow road, and can only move over the ground at a
snail's pace. Even the Maharajah of Benares, all unused as he
is to being stopped anywhere, sees that it is useless to storm,
and, leaning back, lets a benign smile play upon his counten-
ance. He knows Sir Salar Jung is a good forty feet ahead of
him, and will get the best seat in the gardens without fail, yet
he never fumes nor frowns. Very differently does a particularly
fat Bajah in a very small gig behave. The gentleman who has
the honour of driving his horses has a sore back, I trow, by this
time ; the Rajah's stick has been by no means idle for the last
five minutes. I do not see the Maharajah of Cashmere, how-
ever, although he is yet a great distance from the gate, confer-
ring any such distinction upon anybody. He is apparently
only too delighted with the novelty of the scene to wish to be
out of it for a moment ; and the three stout sons of Jung Baha-
door are models of patient bearing. Not so a civilian official
in the next carriage to us, who is in a frenzy of fear lest he
'shall miss the opportunity of displaying himself. If he could
see himself as others see him, he might perchance sit down
quietly ; as it is, he gesticulates as violently as though he were
endeavouring to address a noisy constituency from a very high
hustings. However, he is kept in countenance by a hundred
others who are behaving in pretty much the same manner, and
one only wishes that a photograph could be taken of fashionable
Calcutta going to Sir Richard Temple's garden party. At last
the gateway is reached, a ticket is given your carriage — which,
by the way, you see no more— and you pass over a carpeted
walk on to a grass plateau. Possibly after three hours spent in
gaining the gardens, the refreshment tent, which is pretty much
like what one would see in England, offers most attraction, were
it not that the sound of the tom-tom is heard. It is certain to
be the accompaniment of some entertainment ; the sound of a
gong in a well-ordered house no more surely betokens dinner
than does the noise of the black man's thumb and fingers on tho

13'

202 WITH THIS FEINCE IN INDU.

ti^tly-draim paroiunfint, peif<niiianeeB more or kaa uniisiiig.
Besides, yonder wide circle of ^people, all craning their necks
forward, betokens what the ynlgar would call ^* high jinks.**
Jinks, indeed, they are too — ^pretty much such as one would ex-
pect to see were the inmates of Dante's Inferno giving a holi-
day, and nrged to lose no time but be meny.

At a moment when we enter the crowd, about a dozen c^the
most hideonsly-arrayed natires are engaged in a dance. To
dance before the Prinoe-^who, by the way is seated on one side
of the -endosore, with the Yioeroy, the QoverDoe of Ceylon,
Hiss Baring, and a host of Maharajahs on one hand or the other
-^ir Eichard Temple has forty or fifty men and women, not
all attired exactly alike, bat varying their oostome acoordiiigto
their individual taste. Some wear tiieir hair very long, reach-
ing down to their waists, and adequately supplied with the
stickiest of mud ; others are croi^)ed as closely as though the
whole period of their dubious lives had been past in a ccmvict
prison. Some bind their foreheads with rings of m^al, others
wear an arrangement of coloured feathers that would move an
Ojibbeway to a paroxysm of envy. In the matter of paint-
ing, too, they are not guided by any hard and last social line,
but are allowed to be as artistic and prodigal of paint as they
please, which also produces an effect all its own. The weapons
differ as widely as the attire ; some have bows and arrows, some
swords of a cumbersome and ugly pattern ; others again hide a
club behind their backs, or clasp the handles of small daggers.
In facial expression, however, they 9re very much alike; they
come from the hills of Assam, and are therefore Mongolians,
though not of pure blood. We hear various bystandees be-
stowing upon them all kinds of technical names; but as these
authorities differ amongst themselves, and are moreover not at
all likely to be right, we leave that detail and watch the dance.
We are told that the twelve fellows who are now jumping
nbout in front of the Prince are illustrating their mode of at-

LIFB IN CALCUTTA. 203

tempting to ayoid the arrows of their enemies. They ootdd not
make more ugly contortions of face or body if their enemies'
arrows hit them. When they move off, they are replaced by
some of their nrasical kini^olk, who pipe and tom-tom for five
minutes, and then are induced to pack up and begone, only to
be f<^owed, however, by four other musicians who come up
with a kind of three-stringed fiddle and scrape away with great
energy. They, too, have leave to retire, whereupon another
posse of savages hop into Uie ring, and are beginning to dance,
when the Prince, always patient, but now very tired, rises, and,
leading the way to the refreshment tent, stops the performance.
Night is coming on, the sun is down ; and all around us, light-
ing up the lieutenant-OovemcN^'s mansion, his iarees, his ponds,
and his gravel-walks, are almost mnumerable oil-lamps. It is
a happy finish to the spectacle in the ring ; and though we may
have to wait hours fbr our carriage, or possibly walk home five
or six miles In consequence of not findii^ it, there can be no
doubt that Sir Bichard Temple's garden party has been a
novelty and a success.

Whatevw else is missed, native entertainments given to the
Prince must be attended. With a feelii^ of this sort I quitted
a dinner table at which sat the most gmiial of company, to pene-
toite the native town and to discover ^le place known as Bel-
glKtchia Villa. Its history alone— printed on a large sheet of
paper — could not have warranted any extraordinary effort^
although to a native the record was doubtles flattering. The
place had at one time belcmged to a gentleman with the name
the q)elling and pronunciation <^ whidi might take rank as a
puzzle, who once had the honour of entertaining Lord Aucklan4.
To please this excellent native, the kindly Qovemor-General
went, it appears, in a grand style, ** making,** to quote an extant
lettOT of his sister, *^ all the noise we could ;" and, as sudi
another trip to the Belgatchia Villa would please the natives
ezeeedinglyy the Prince determined to go to the fSte.

204 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

There is T great deal in an attractive programme. That
L^ued hy the managers of the f^te was uncommonly attractive.
A present was to be made to the Prince ; his Royal Bighness
was to be '' blessed" in a Jajar Yedic Mantra — ^whatever that
might be— ^y three Yedic students; a gentleman who called
himself Pandit Satyavrata Samaswami, had promised to chant
a hymn ; four native amateurs had volunteered to sing a wel-
come song in Bengali ; a native musical concert was down on
the list, after which the Baboo Kally Prosmo Bannerjee was
to play on two flutes at once by blowing, not with his mouth,
but with his neck, and another gentleman, named Qopal
Chuckerbutty, was to sing a song. I hope I shall never hear
Chuckerbutty sing any more. A trio on the sitar was pro-
mised by three other native instrumentalists ; a Kautch dance^
a supper, and fireworks were moreover announced.

To hear the music, and see the Prince, nearly two thousand
natives had assembled, in a hall built expressly for the purpose,
near the villa, nearly two hours before the arrival of the Princa
The apartment itself would bear some inspection, with its blue
star-spangled roof, and its green star-spangled pillars. The
arrangement of the place was a little peculiar too. For the
Prince a throne, with two chairs on either side, was placed^
with tiers of seats behind, rising one above another, intended
for the use of the Prince's suite. Facing the carpeted gangway
which led to the throne, and was not vwy wide, were the seats,
in equal numbers on each side, whereon visiters sat. There
was no platform, no raised dais for the performers — simply the
pathway ; the result being that of the performance itself scarcely
anybody but the Prince and his attendants saw anything. Long
before the entertainment began there was a great excitement
amongst the managers. Baboos were flitting about hither and
thither, as though they had to march up and down the hall a
certain number of times before the Prince arrived, and were
afraid their task would scarcely be completed. More objection*

LIFE IN CALCUTTA. 205

able, perhaps, than their continual movement, was a constant^
droning «ound, which penetrated the building, and told of
Baboos and instrumentalists rehearsing their music. Was it the
sultan Mahmoud who delighted in the noise of fiddle-tuning 9
He would have been enchanted idth the preparations of our
Hindoo musicians. We, whose tastes were not thus educated,
were less pleased.

At length the Prince's arrival was heralded by a fanfare of
trumpets outside ; we could hear an order given to the Sikh
regiment, drawn up at the door, to present arms, and then in
came the Prince, leading Miss Baring, and followed by the
Viceroy, Sir William Gregory, and most of the minor membei^
of his suite. The Duke of Sutherland came later. You may
now spend a moment in looking at the audience. Yonder is
Sir Kichard Temple in a cocked hat and feathers of wonderful
dimensions, just such a hat, in fact, as an alderman might view
with envy ; hard by is the descendant of Tippoo Sahib, with a
sort of Lutheran hat on his head, but a dress as unlike that of
the «ober-minded German reformer as may well be. Still that
solemn face and that velvet cap cannot be disassociated from
the idea. It is Luther still; but Luther going to races or a
balL He would have been the last man in the' world to wear
cloth of gold in a church, whatever his Protestant followers may
do nowadays. And then, seated quite with a crowd — it is a
very fashionable, albeit native crowd — ^is the Maharajah of
Jheend ; an ancient gentleman, with a long beard, who delights
in a golden turban and a white dress. He is not alone in his
princely glory ; for there are at least twenty of his compeers
here; the Maharajah of Travancore is not twenty feet away,
and his Highness of Cashmere is close by, smiling as pleasantly
as ever. I fancy the aged chieftain of Benares is, after all, the
happiest. How he rubs his hands, and peers through his
spectacles at all that is going on around him. I verily believe
^t even the Baboos, who are hopping past us every moment^

206 WITH THE PRINCB IN INDIA.

and vhose daim to be deotod to tke Wanderers' dab should
be incontestable, please him. Why should he not enjoy it allt
Time, which has dealt kindly with him, cannot long ocmtinne
its favours. In loddng at his happy hce one almost forgets
the banging and aracking that are gmng on outdoors. When
the Prince visited Kandy, gallant Captain Byrde, who had no
cannon, and could not bear the idea of receiving a Prince with-
out a Boyal salute, manufactured twenty-one bamboo guns,
and, filling them with powder, burst them one after another m
honour of Uie Boyal travellw. So, too, at Baroda Station, the
traffic superintendent^ also a man of resource, laid fog signals
on the line over which the Boyal train ran, and thus caused
sufficient n<Hse to satisfy the most exigeant. Outside the hall
to-night they are doing something of the sort, and the defighted
countenances of the managers show that the noise is quite
equalling their most sanguine anticipations. Inside, just in
front of the Prince, the three Yedic students are gmng through
their '* blessing," an edifyiz^ process, <^ which we cannot catch
a word. Directiy after these are gone the hymn is chanted
horn the Sama Yeda.

I think I might be chary of criticism thus far ; the profes-
8i<mals are bearable, but alas for those who have to listen to
the four amateurs. There is no doubt about the song, the
words are in |Mrint on huge cards, already given us, and the re-
frain in Bengali runs :

*' Tbough hnmble our reeeptaoa bc^

And ^ough oiur stTains may halting ran,
The loyal heart we bring to thee
Is wanner than onr Eastern son."

Perhaps it is ; so we pardon the noise the amateurs make for
the sake of the words they sing. They should have veary loyal
hearts. Their lungs are undoubtedly powerful, though nature
foigot to give them any vocal ability. But another crowd is

Life in Calcutta^ 207

forcing its way up the aisle — ^a crowd of determined-looking old
men who carry under their arms and on their shoulders all
kinds of instruments. Their smile is portentous. They are
going to play before a Prince ; not a man in the dozen or so
now passing up the hall would leave off playing till the end of
the tune, if death itself threatened. And they do play too ; no
mere short-lived galop or waltz, but a good set piece with plenty
of all kinds of bars in it, except bars of rest, an omission foi
which we heap malediction on the head of the composer when
a quarter of an hour of thumping and scraping had passed.
However^ they cease at last, and then the gentleman with the
two flutes stands before the Prince, and certainly does produce
a singular effect therewith. The two tin tubes are placed on
either side of his neck, he shuts his mouth and turns red in the
fiEuse, whereupon the flutes emit sounds, and a tune is played.
Then comes the redoubtable Chuckerbutty, who, sitting down,
b^;ins the vocal mudc promised. To attempt to describe his
'^ music "is impossible. He appears to have shut his mouth off
from all communication with the nose, and to be shouting from
the pit of his stomach. Enough, Chuckerbutty, the Prince longs
to be delivered from thee. Kautch girls come now, some half
dozen in number, and begin such a shuffle as I have previously
described. They are nqt pretty, but their movements are
graceful, and they have the good sense to ' divine when it is
time to go. Thankfully we now repair to the refreshment
room, on the tables of which is spread a liberal supper, and
from the windows oi which the fireworks may be seen. Tell it
not how we were nearly all asphyxiated with the fumes of gun-
powder, and how at three o'clock in the morning we waited for
our carriages, Rajahs, Maharajahs, Baboos, Parsees, alL To
learn what native entertainments are, it is necessary to go to
them. But they should not take place too often.

CHAPTEE XX.

KNIGHT-MAKINO.

Would you know how Elnights of the Star of India are
made! Then imagine that you are in Calcutta on Uie 1st of
January in the year of Grace 1876. The scene is an enclosure
the form of which is an oblong square, encompassing a space
nearly a quarter of a mile in length and about half as broad.
It stands in the centre of an eztensiye mead, is itself carpeted
with the greenest turf. And not only the northern and sonth-
em extremities^ but those also which point to the east and
west> are gates wide enough to admit several horsemen abreast.
At each of these portals are stationed guards — strong bodies of
men-at-arms — for the purpose of maintaining order, and ascer-
taining also the quality of those who present themselves at the
entrances. Along the ioner sides of the enclosure looking
north and south are sixteen pavilions, adorned with pennons,
the chosen colours of the knights to whom they belong. Be-
side these pavilions also stand the squires of the knights, many
of them quaintly attired in fantastic dress, in each case accord-
ing to the taste of his master. At the eastern end of the enclo-
sure is a pavilion raised higher and more richly decorated than
the others, graced by two thrones and canopy, on which the
Boyal arms are emblazoned. Squires, pages, and yeomen in
rich liveries wait around the place of honour, which is clearly
designed for personages of high degree. Galleries on either
side are filled with knights and nobles in their robes of peace,
whose rich tints contrast with the splendid habits of the ladies,
who, in gieater numbers than the men, have come hither to
witness the sport. In a yet lower space are such of the lesser

KNIGHT-MAKING. - 209

gentry as from modesty, poverty, or dubious title, to say
nothing of inability to persuade somebody in office to give
them a more desirable post, dare not assume any higher place.
This tented field is within a mile of the city of Calcutta.
Yonder thrones of silver and blue — ^the one surmounted by the
crown, and the other by three feathers; both of them placed on
a d^ raised three steps from the ground, and under a canopy
of the same material as the thrones themselves — are intended
for the Viceroy of India and the Queen's son. The tents, at
the doors of which stand clusters of singularly attired retainers,
hide Kni^ts of the Star of India, Grand Commanders from
Scinde, Cashmere, Travancore, and Indore ; the guards at the
gates are battalions of Sikhs, bronzed warriors from the Pun-
jab, athletic soldiers of Bengal. Inside, the helmets of white
and glittering weapons are those of British troops and British
sailors, drawn up in strong lines in front of the tents, and form-
ing a guard of honour on either side of the pathway which
leads to the Eoyal pavilion. The splendid spectacle is not only
romantic in itself, but to persons acquainted with the style and
title of all that are notable here, it is an extraordinary but very
intelligible scene. Inside the Royal pavilion, and on either
aide of the dials, no less than at the back of it, were tiers of
seats filled with native grandees, English generals and naval
captains, political officers, and ladies, the beauty of whose
uniforms and dresses was marvellous to behold. Scarlet, blue,
doth of gold, silks of the brightest hues, all combined to give
warmth and colour to this delightful picture. The pale blue of the
Order, which was apparent everywhere, on throne and canopy,
in banners pendant from the roof, and in the cloaks of those who
were about to be invested as Knights Grand Commanders — ^the
recipients, as yet invisible — actually relieved the eye, so over-
whelming was the assemblage of gaudy colours. Nor were
** Queen's of Beauty" wanting; there were many here whose
beauty entitled them to be every whit a queen; it was an

210 ^iTM XHJB PRINOB IN INDIA.

•MemUage of all tiie fair and $XL the braye in BengaL Allow-
ing your eje to ran along the red carpet, on which was embla-
aoned the Boyal arms, and so looking right and le^ you found
at the entrance to the Boyal tent other galleries erected for and
filled bj those whose rank or deeds were not sufficient to entitle
them to the premier places. Yet even these were much to be
enTiedy and, indeed, were envied accordingly by those whose
fortune it had not be^i to receive an invitation. They were
content to sit nnd^ insufficient canopies, toiving the hot sun
for hours, rather than lose an opportunity of being {»:esent at
Uie greatest fSte which India witnessed in modem times. It is
a long and strikiog vista — the vastness of the enclosure and the
brightness of the sunlight render objects somewhat less distinct,
mellow down the tones of colour outside the pavilion, and give
to the whole spectacle more than may be easily imagined the
attributes of an admirably painted jacture or a fairy scene,
rather than the idea of life and reality, '' Nothing shall be
omitted which will redound to the dignity of the said Ord^,"
says the Royal Warrant which commands the Prince to hold
the chapter.

Standing, as we do, in the Boyal pavilion, then, this splendid
morning, before the Prince arrives and the chapter is opened,
there is much to notica Of the tents outside this throne-room^
but, of course, inside the enclosure, that on the right-hand side
looking towards the entrance is reserved for the Viceroy, who,
as Grand Master of the Ord^, has the chief place ; the opposite
one belongs to the Prince of Wales. Next to that (^ Lord
Northbrook is the tent of the Maharajah Scindia ; next to the
Prince of Wales' the pavilion of the ruler of Cashmere. In order
of precedence as follows are the tents of the Maharajah Holkar,
the Maharajah of Jeypore, the Maharajah of Eewah, Sir BarUe
Frere,the Maharajah of Travancore, Lord Napier, the Maharajah
of Puttiala, Sir Salar Jung, and the Begum of Bhopal. Hound the
doors of these tents, for their occupants have already arrivod in

KNiaST'MAKING. 211

order a^^inted, stand their retainers, in all the oostmaes of the
Indies. Diere are two more large tents, one lor Kni^ts Com-
manders and another for Companions of ^e Order. Pathways
to all of these have been marked by rod carpet; thdr doorwajs
are all guarded by English troc^s. Inside iht pavilion fresh
arrivals are swelling the already crowded audience every
moment. Several of the Prince's suite, headed by the Duke of
Sutherland — ^who wears the scarlet coat and plaid of a Highland
regiment, the plaid being fastened to his Grace's epaulettes by
the aid of white ribbon — and L(»d Alfred Paget^ in a general's
uniform and sash, stroll in at one door at Uie precise moment
that Sir William Gregory, brave in his Governor's gold-
embroidered uniform and newly acquired collar of St. Michael
and St. (George, enters by another, leading Miss Baring and
followed by his aide-de-camp. ^ Miss Baring stands and chats
with the Duke, Lord Alfred Paget and Sir William Gregory
are apparently wishing each other a happy new year, when a
stir at the door betokens the arrival of somebody of great im-
portance^ One marvels who it can be, and has reascm to marvel
still more when the apparition makes its way into open view.
Surely nothing more grotesque was ever seen befora Four
olive-coloured gentlemen with Mongdian faces, attired in
fashions so fantastic as to provoke a general murmur of surprise,
even from people somewhat used to singular dresses, are wait-
ing for seats. Golden hats, red collars, green robes, dragon-
headed swords, all belcmg to the r^resraitatives of his Majesty
of Burmah. What reason tar wondw that the subjects of that
potentate occasionally ccHnmit little excesses if the nu^nates
of his empire wear dresses like these. The sons of Jung Ba-
hadoor are just entering, and are led to a post of honour. Their
aigrettes of diamonds and horsehair plumes are no mean addi-
tion to the head-dresses of the audience ; besides whidi one of
them is to be decorated presently. There is a native officer,
toO| of the Viceroy's staff— a fine, soldierly man, dressed like a

212 ff^TH TEE FEINCB IN INDIA.

European, save that he wears a tarl)an and a short plaid petti-
ooat, and he is placed in a good seat ; and another native — this
time a civilian, one of those who is to receive the medal of the
Order — ^by name Baboo Degumber Mitter, follows, and is
placed dose to Colonel Ramsay, who, like his native fHend,
will shortly be called up and be publicly honoured. At length,
however, a far more notable incident occurs. Amid heavy
salvoes of artillery, the presenting of arms by the troops, playing
of bands, and hurrying of umbrella bearers and aides-de-camp,
the entrance of the Prince and the Viceroy to the enclosure is
announced, and they are conducted to their tents preparatory
to the forming of a procession to the Koyal pavilion. For a
moment there is a pause ; the chiefs of the Order are seen
moving from their tents across i)he enclosed plain, while a lively
march is played and distant guns are firing.

The first Knight Grand Commander of the Star of India is
just upon the point of entering the tent, heralded as becomes
the possessor of titles and dignity so undoubted, by a goodly
array of men-at-arms. Turbaned warriors in pairs, eight in
number, two of them Nawabs in their own right, precede the
knight, while an of&cer of rank bears the Bhopal escutcheon.
Fancy pictures a stalwart soldier in rear of that silken sheet of
blue and gold — a broad-shouldered, fierce-looking winner of
honours, when following the banner, which by this time has
entered the tent, totters forward a native lady, so closely
muffled-up and veiled in blue silk that not a hair of hec head
or a feature of her face can be descried by the most inquisitive ;
a little Mahommedan dame, dressed in the blue robe of the
Order, with a shield in the place where her right arm should be,
fin embroidered star on h^r left side, the medal of the Order
hung round the mufflers which cover her neck, and the star <^
brilliants pinned to her breast. It is certain that she can in
some way or other, to us unknowm, peer through that thick,
blue veil, or that tottering shuffle would degenerate into a

KNIGHT-MAKING 213

helpless halt. As it is^ she moves slowly forward, her train
being held up by two little pages in yeUow turbans, till she finds
her chair of state, and subsides. But another group is coming
forward, and we have not time to look longer at the little Begum
of BhopaL Make way for Sir Salar Jung, who is preceded by
eight attendants. Glad in a black velvet coat richly embroidered
with gold, and^ with the blue robe of the Order thrown over
his shoulders, the great Minister of the Nizam steps slowly
forward, a single page upholding his train, and takes his
place exactly opposite to the Begum of Bhopal who, by
the way, is standing up once more. Then his Magnificence of
Puttiala, with banner and attendants, appears in the way. A
broad-shouldered potentate, truly ; the front of his turban and
of his coat alike nearly covered with those famous brilliants
which once glittered at the Tuileries, and at St. Cloud, at the
assemblies of the Knights of the Legion of Honour, when the
Empress Eugenie looked on the grandest pageant which France
could afford. Their owner stands by the side of the tiny lady
Elnight, a very tower of strength — a giant magnified the more
by the contrast he makes with the Begum of BhopaL Behind
him, not very far behind, is a more notable Eaiight than he,
Lord Napier of Magdala, eight English officers heralding him,
and one bearing his banner aloft — a broad silk fiag of brown and
gold. For pages this hero of many fights has a midshipman
from the " Immortality," in navy blue, and a sub-lieutenant in
bright scarlet uniform ; fit followers of one who has achieved so
much by sea and by land. The little Maharajah of Travancore,
with only four heralds and two little boys attired in Bengalee
fashion, is close behind, moving in as graceful a manner as
though he had all his life long made Chesterfield and Brummell
his models and study. Sir Bartle Frere follows, and then the
Maharajah of Eewah, preceded by his banner of black and gold,
and having pages prettily attired in cloth of gold. Jeypore
the Bajpoot is next, with a banner of curious kind* Divided

214 W^TS THB PBINCB IN INDIA.

lengthwise into stripB rf various oolours^ it portrays at <mce yeh
low, blue, white, green, red, and black. His train is sapported
bj boys in hats like sugar loaves — ^yellow hats, and extremely
ugly. Holkar's red puggaree is in view a minute later —
Holkar, the plainly-dressed Maharajah, clad wholly in white, ex-
cepting the blue robe which he wears in comm<»i with all
Kni^ts Grand Commanders — and then the Maharajah of Gash-
mere, whose banner is <^ gold and white, and whose little pages
wear tiny pirtk turbans. Scindia the senior now approadies,
wearing a white Tyrolese hat trimmed with a yellow feather,
and as he follows his blue and yellow banner, stops here to shake
hands with Lord Napier, there to bow to his Highness of
Travancore, then to exchange a word with loMvia Avisoi Gash-
mere, and lastly to speak to Holkar, whose seat is next his own.
All the Knights Grand Commanders are then in their places ;
the band plays the march still ; all are now in suspense, for the
Prince and Viceroy are coming ; tiieir processions are moving
towards the tent.

About ^be dignity connected with an umbrella, many great
authorities, from King (kitee in the West to the Jam <^ Now-
anuggur in the East, are agreed. But when there are not only
one, but three umbrellas, when one of these is of gold, a^ the
two others of blue and red, with massive gold lNx>ideries, ihiere
can be no manner of doubt in the minds of the most ignorant
in such matters as to the amount of dignity and honour they
confer. In fr<mt of these insignia of pomp march with steady
tread twelve dhosen esquires, attendants cm the Knight Grand
Commander whose banner it is which is seen in the distance.
That banner, too, is worthily borne, for it is carried by no less
a warrior than G^ieral Frobyn, to whose name attaches all that
is dear to a soldier. And close behind, under the gold um-
brella, comes the Prince of Wales, clad in a general's scarlet
uniform, with the blue cloak of the Star of Trul\^ over his
shoulders, the gold chain of the Grder about his neck, and that

KNIGHT'MAKINQ. 215

of the darter Inside it Following this prooessioii is that ot
the Viceroy, Terj similar and quite as grand, boasting two other
little pages almost the counterparts of those who follow the
t^rinoe. 33ia Excellency takes his seat on the dais, the audience
sits down, th^re is a short consultation between Lord North-
brook and his Foreign Secretary, and then Mr. Aitchison stands
forward, a long roll in his hand, and proceeds to call out the
na;mes of themembers of idie chapters. He begins with Albert
Edward, Prince of Wales, and the Prince, in a loud tone <^
voice, says ^* Here !" Lord Northbrook comes next on die rolL
** Here 1 " Then the Duke of Edinburgh, to whose name there
is no rec^nse. So the roll goes, on, each Knight present
answering to his name, until at length it is finished, and then
the chapter is declared open, and we wait with cunosity for
furth^ proceedings.

In a loud, dosa voice Mr. Aitchison reads the warrant
authorising ** our well-beloved son " to hold a ceremony of in-
vestiture of the Order on behalf of her Majesty, and d^ails by
an HkoBe repetitions of which lawyers are so fond, but of whidi
all othttr people are so tired, the separate rights and powers to
wiiich certain and sundry chosen already for the honour will
hereafter be entitled, ''all stotute, rule, or usage to the con-
trary notwithstanding.*' After which satisfieu^tory statement,
ihsre is silence while the Prince and all present stand up, and
his Boyal Highness is saluted. Hereupon Mr. Aitchison
moves forward again — ^he is the principal personage here after
all, and will appear very ofben, but he is a good and untiring
official, and deserves all prominence — and hands to the Prince
Uie warrant, whidi by his Eoyal Highness is transferred to the
hands of one of the pages at the back of the throne, and the
CQ^emony proceeds.

Mr. Aitchison now goes in quest of the Maharajah of Jod-
pore, who is hidden away in a tent in the dim distance, taking
with him four m^cebearers, the Under-Secretary of the Foreign

216 WITH TEB PRINOE IN INDIA.

Department, and two junior Knights-Commanders^ while the
bands outside strike up a quick march. It is a long distance
that has to be traversed, and it is some time ere the little pro-
cession has turned to the left and gone towards the pavilion of
the waiting Maharajah. But as time passes it is seen return*
ing, this time swelled by the attendants and person of his
Highness of Jodpore, who with pages and bannermen is now
coming up. It may be that you are tempted to laugh outright
as that extraordinary party from the tent approaches, till you
remember that you are in the very presence of Royalty and
in the chapter of a lodge of Knights. Six very fat men, with
long pink gowns drawn tight to the knees, so that they can
scarcely walk, but bulging out thence, and frilled so stiffly as
to resemble a large Chinese umbrella, are not, perhaps, stately
objects, albeit that one of them is a Maharajah. However,
the soldiers and sailors present arms as the cortege passes, the
bands play a slow march, and it enters the Eoyal pavilion with
all state and show. Conducted to the foot of the dais, where
he makes profound bows, kissing his hand in approved style,
the Maharajah hears the warrant for his decoration read over^
is then taken to a table on one side, where he receives his
cloak and badge, then back to the Prince, who, ejaculating the
words, ** In the name of the Queen, and by her Majesty's com-
mand, I here invest you with the honourable insignia of the
Star of India, of which most exalted order her Majesty has
been graciously pleased to appoint you to be a Eaiight Grand
Commander," places the chain round the bent neck of the re-
cipient without himself rising from the throne. Immediately
a salute of seventeen guns is begun ; the newly-made Knight
bows to the Prince and Viceroy, who both remain seated with
their helmets on ; a blast of trumpets heralds the proclamation
of his style and title, and Jodpore of the red petticoat is led to
his seat.
Then another pause ensues ; Mr. Aitchison sallies forth againi

KNIGHT-MAKING. 217

this time in search of the Rajah of Theend. He presently
appears, followed by the Foreign Secretary, clad in cloth of
gold, and wearing a golden turban. He is a grand man, in
appearance firstly, for his long, grey beard and manly carriage
betoken a patriarchal warrior; in repute secondly, for he it
was who first led Sikh troops to conquer the fiends at Delhi.
The ceremony of his investiture is the same as in the case of his
predecessor of Jodpore, save that eleven guns only are fired in
his honour. And then the Knights Commanders are brought
. up. The first is Mr. Kobinson, of Madras, who immediately
receives a collar of blue silk and medal from the hands of the
Prince, and then is made a Knight Bachelor of Gre^t Britain
by the placing of a sword, which General Probyn has ready, on
his left and right shoulders. The rest, with the exception of
Colonel Ramsay, who receives the same honours as Mr. Robin-
son, are unknown to the English public. Companions of the
Order are next nominated, the Prince handing the medal to
Mr. Aitchison, who pins it upon the breast of the selected one,
who bows reverently, and so the ceremony draws to an end.
The newly-made Companions take their appointed places ; their
names are called out and responded to with much humility :
the Secretary informs the Prince that there is no further busi-
ness before the chapter, whereupon he is commanded to declare
the lodge dissolved ; a Royal procession is once more marshal-
led ; the guards of honour present arms ; bands play a grand
march; one more Royal salute is fired, and the Prince and
Viceroy leave the pavilion, stopping in their way out to speak
to the great chieftains as they pass. A few minutes later, and
the enclosure itself has been quitted by the Royal party, and
the rest oi us are moving to the gates on our way home. The
chapter of the most exalted Order of the Star of India ia dis-
served.

U

CHAPTER XXL

THE SACRED CITT OF BENARES.

Benares is undoubtedly a fine dty. The view from the river
is perfect ; but a person beholding it for the first time on a
chilly moonlight nighty in a rickety vehicle that threatened to
turn over every moment on a bridge of boats, with only a very
vague idea of whei^ he would find a bed for the night — ^that
bed being) at all events, quite six miles off — ^might fidl at that
pai*ticular moment to recognise the attraction of Benares. On
the other hand, a believer in Shiva, a red-turbaned, shuffling,
white-petticoated, olive-coloured native of Hindostan, with his
heart set upon visiting the sacred city of India, would leap for
joy ; would forget the mist and the dimness, the chilly wind
and clammy air, the chance of having no bed, and possibly no
board either, and rejoice with exceeding joy at the prospect of
plunging in the Ganges next morning, and washing away what
peccadilloes and worse might cling to his soul. The slow-moving,
shrunken stream — for the rains are long since past — would
assume a new appearance. Yonder innumerable steps down to
the river would be but as Jacob's ladder reversed ; not, indeed,
leading upwards to glory, but downwards to happiness here and
hereafter.

A grand position is that of a Hihdoo pilgrim to Benares — ^a
lot to be envied by the myriads who live in the far North, and
the millions who inhabit the distant South, the natives of the
Malabar Coast and those whose vista is a view of the Ooromandel
Sea. These may yearly send their roll of fortunate men — ^men
who have done wrong and had misgivings, but who come hither
to bathe and be morally clean henceforth and for ever ; but the

van SACkED CITY OP MNAESS. 219

vast majority can hope for no shriving, no indulgence, no pardon;
the waters of the Bombay Abana or the Madras Pharpar may
be blue and beautiful; but the Benares Ganges, the sacred
river, can alone do good to the crowds of natives whose dread is
Shiva the destroyer. Of course, the wealthy of the land can
come hither and be blest. " See Naples and die," say the
Italians, " See Benares and die," echo the Hindoos ; and, in
hope of dying here and being consumed by fire on the river
shore, many a rich native hurries up, despite agony of body
indescribable. What becomes of him when he reaches the
sacred city ? Visit the river banks, and entering a dingy, or
covered boat, move slowly down the stream, and see.

On the right bank is a wide plain, somewhat similar to the
Essex marshes which skirt the Thames below Tilbury ; there is
the palace of the Maharajah of Benares at a distant point, but
with this exception the right side of the Ganges is deserted. On
the left, however, a very different picture presents itself, and
such a one as cannot be forgotten so long as memory lasts. A
great city suddenly fronts us — a city not only sacred, but grand
in its edifices of palaces and temples, the chief of which are on
the water's edge. Here are hundreds of flights of stone steps
forty or fifty feet broad, rising high up the river bank. The
steps, or "ghauts," lead to magnificent Oriental buildings.
Here is the Ghaut Scindia, with the palace of the Ruler of
Gwalior above; there the Ghaut Nagpore, with the Eajah's
house at the summit ; a little further on the Ghauts of Viziana-
gram, Benares, Nagpore, and Peshwa, with the mansions
attached. The subsisting Maharajahs and Bajahs, having
always an eye to the possibilities of fate, and anxious to make
" the best of both worlds," have a house in the sacred city, where
they can comfortably retire when the warning comes and prepa •
ration for departure is judicious. Poorer people must manage
without all this, and indeed do so manage. In view at thL?
moment are thousands of them bathing in the water, lapping it.

220 TFITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

washing their clothes — if a waistcloth can be called " clothes "
— and taking up a vesselful of the sacred water for the benefit of
their friends. The water is not bright or clean. It might, were
it not so sacred, be called very dirty. And there are, just now
at any rate, some thousands of people bathing in it continually.
But that matters not ; it is the holy river, and the worshippers
of the Ganges fill their mouths with the water, lave in it,
drink of it, quite happily. Every dip they take, every drop
they swallow, washes off moral uncleanliness. To us sti'angers
the sight is amazing. Under the shadow of temple and mansion
alike, troops of men, women, and children are coming down the
steps. A short prayer, a momentary uplifting of the hands, a
certain, or rather uncertain, rolling of the eye-balls, and Ihen
a plunge into the river. All along the bank, huddled together
against the landing stages, in the stream up to their necks
clinging to the bamboo posts to which boats are fastened, every
devotee is happy, each ready to pay for a garland of yellow
flowers, each determined to make the most of a liberation from
the ill-deeds of the past.

While thinking about this unwonted scenes; the boatman,
attracts attention by a touch on the arm, to say we are opposite
the burning ghaut. To be burnt at Calcutta or Bombay may
be a satisfactory contemplation for the dying native ; but to be
placed on the funeral pyre at Benares, to be first of all washed
in the Ganges, and then to have his ashes thrown into the
sacred river, is indeed a happiness. As we look on the shore,
the boat being drawn close to the edge, a curious sight meets
our eyes. In a little space, fashioned somewhat after the shape
of an amphitheatre, are three burning heaps of wood. Looking
down upon these, quite thirty feet high above the pyres, and
enveloped in the smoke, are some forty or fifty men and
women, perched on the steps like so many rooks, looking com-
placently down while the remains of their relatives are being
consumed. Down af the water's edge, partly in the water

THE 8ACBED CITY OF BENARES. 221

inddedy are two human bodies. One is ih»,t of a woman^ the
other of a man ; each is wrapped in white linen. Yery little
ceremony is needed^ but that little is observed. The fire pile
has been prepared for the reception of the corpse to be burnt,
l^e body is therefore placed by the side of ihe river, and then
dipped into the water, so that all the sheet is covered. Lest
there should be any doubt about this, however, a vessel of
water is twice emptied over the head of the corpse before it is
removed, and then the two men in attendance, lifting the body,
place it upon the pyre ; logs of wood thrown to them by assis-
tants are laid on it ; lights dry chips placed beneath ; a torch is
fetched, and the light applied; Uiere is a. blaze, and— of the
rest nothing need be said. •

Our boat is now propelled a little further down the stream,
till the Great Mohammedan mosque is reached. Two minarets,
one of which may be ascended without danger, stand on either
side of it j but we decline the proffered opportunity.

I have said that Benares is a holy city; it is notable in
many other respects. Were nothing more to be seen, its
Observatory, its Grolden Temple, its sacred well, and its strange
bazaar, would give it the title to be ranked amongst the most
notable places in the world. But it has, in addition to all
these, axid the most holy point of the Ganges, l(mg groves of
trees — orange, citron, plantain, and palm ; and the most singu-
lar monkey temple in the world. On arriving at the temple
the Prince was supplied with a plate of parched peas and a
number of white sweetmeats, of which it waa said that the
monkeys had many times signified their approbation, and thus
furnished, his Boyal Highness entered the temple. We had
been told duit on stepping inside a great assemblage of monkeys
might be expected, and sundry signs had not been wanting
that monkeys were somewhere about in great numbers. Up in
the neighbouring trees, on the walls an(^^fs of houses, in the
roads, chasing luckless children, and on the fronts of the shops,

222 TFITH TEE FRINGE IN INDIA.

these creatures seemed to be everywhere. That they were
misohievous was also undoubted, for now and then they wotdd
hurl stones or pieces of wood at passers-by with an aim by no
means to be despised, or would lean over the wall and quietly
snap off the turban of some thoughtless pedestian, who might
shout, and call not only the monkey but the monkey's sister
and mother — ^the approved style of abuse here— all kinds <^
unpleasant names; but his turban might be considered as gone,
all efforts of its owner notwithstanding, and the best thing he
could do would be to buy another puggaree as quickly as pos-
sible. Our entry to the temple was the signal for a general
assemblage of these pleasant animals. They tumbled down
from the minaretsf of the temple, they came over the walks by
scores, they wriggled through holes and crevices, rushed in at
the doorways, and, in short, so readily obeyed the summons as
to form a body that could, without the slightest trouble, have
had a great piece of fiin with the Prince and his suite. For
tunately, they were peaceably inclined, and as the stock of-
sweetmeats and peas was large, and their hunger not great — ^for
they are fed on aji average fifty times a day by pilgrims and
worshippers — they were content to take what was thrown
them, and filling their cheeks as full as possible, make off. I
am not sure that at times the gold lace on the Prince's coat
was not a temptation, for the monkeys' eyes glistened as they
looked at the Eoyal uniform. But the visitors werej foi-tun.
ately, on three steps, kept clear by energetic priests, and the
Boyal party came away without any accident.

Not for from here is the celebrated Golden Temple, to visit
which is the ambition of every Hindoo. To see it thoroughly,
the Prince was, on arrival, conducted to an adjacent window,
whence the golden dome, with its surrounding minarets, one of
them golden also, could be inspected. The stone carving of this
edifice is very rich, aitfl so minute as to cause a feeling of con-
siderable surprise in the minds of all strangers. It is as neatly

Xn XOHXBT TBimiB AT BXNAM8«

THE SACRED CITY OF BENABES. 223

carved as the finest ivory boxes, and the sharpness of the
figures, although they were fashioned hundreds of years ago,
remains to this day. Inside, some hundreds of Hindoos were
going through their worship as they did in the days when the
carvings were new, without variation or alteration.

There is a well here which, as the residence of a deity — ^no
less a personage than Shiva himself— is greatly worshipped.

The proper thing for a pilgrim on arrival at Benares is to do
''Poojah" in the first instance to this well. This he accom-
plishes in two ways — ^by throwing holy Ganges water and
flowers into the well, and as much money as he can scrape to-
gether into a bright silver box, which a thoughtful priest is
careful to point out. One may look at the well without throw-
ing anything into it, and be just as much rewarded as if he
had brought the Ganges into the*temple, provided that he place
something in the box. But if you throw all the flowers in
Benares into the tank, and only look at the box, be good enough
to remember that you are still an unregenerate Hindoo, and
not at all a favourite of the very respectable deity who, strange
to say, prefers for a dwelling-place one of the most horrible
stench-holes in the universe. We, as pilgrims, held our noses
and gave up our purses. It was an act of homage which the
priests understood and approved — ^the most effective way of
doing Poojah at the Gyan Bapee.

Other wells in Benares are almost equally holy — one named
Mankamika, which is said to have been built by divine hands,
and sanctified by the dropping of one of Parvati's earrings into
the water. The dropping of fiowers and refuse into the water
since that memorable moment has made it so unbearable a
cesspool that one glance is sufficient, and ft hasty retreat neces-
sary. We did no Poojah here — ^perhaps we were good enough
already. A Brahmin told me — he was a highly educated man
— ^that originally the well was filled with the perspii-ation from
Vishnu's body; but it was his belief, and here he4>ecame quite

224 WITH THE FRINCB IN INDIA.

confidential, that Yishnu had not visited the well for some time
— a statement which credits Yishnu with great good sense.
But the Brahmin was an attendant on a rival well, so he must
not be implicitly trusted.

From the well a mote was made to the Observatory, where
a considerable number of interesting objects were to be viewed.
There was a stone wall eleven feet high, nine feet one inch
broad, in the plain of the meridian, which is u^ed as a quadrant,
and I was told that the sun's altitude and zenith distance at
noon, as well as its greatest declination, and the latitude of the
place, could all be ascertained by the help of this instrument —
if so a stone wall can be named — by a very aged and excessively
dingy astronomer, who was chattering in Tamil to one of the
party. There were two large circles of stone, and a square, and
another arrangement of stone in the shape of a staircase, by all
of which various astronomical problems may, it is said, be
worked. The staircase was called Yantrasamrat, or Prince of
Instruments ; and a very knowing old gentleman was pointed
out who could tell the declination or right ascension of a star
by the aid of it. As a staircase, I may impartially admit that
it was respectably constructed, and not difficult of ascent;
moreover, that it afforded an admirable view of the city and
the river, when once we were perched on the topmost step. As
to its use a^ an astronomical " guide, philosopher, and friend,''
I can say nothing. The old gentleman tried to explain some-
thing to me, but as his language was not similar to mine, the
conversation was of a very one-sided character. However, the
sum of two annas, politely offered and gratefully received, was
at least understood and accepted in lieu of learned discourse.

CHAPTER XXII.

A LEVEE (O" THE BRAVE.

Ludsnow saw the lev^ of the Brave. Not a dress exhibition
of snch braves as may be found anywhere ready to march past
a Prince — ^the brave in gold and tinsel, in moustaches and
uniforms ; but the brave who, at the peril of their lives, and
despite the entreaties oi friends, remained true to the flag at a
moment when fidelity promised nothing but suffering.

It was about four o'clock in the afternoon when a sharp drive
landed lue in the midst of an extraordinary scene. In the back-
ground stood a pile of charred ruins, bullet-seamed, shell-beaten,
fire-broken heaps of stones. A circle of trees enclosed the
whole scene — ^trees heavy with foliage, deep groves of bright
green leaves. In the centre was a mound of earth, on the top
of which was a triangle of wood, surmounted by two Union
Jacks. In front and on the two other sides, the third of which
was the ruin I have referred to, were long lines of troops ; those
in front Sikh and Punjabee regiments, attired somewhat after
the fashion of Highland soldiers, except that they wear
" breeks," while those at the sides were European battalions.
In rear <^ the Sikhs, and under the shade of the trees, two
batteries of artillery were drawn up ready to salute. Inside
the space thus hdd by the soldiers, and close to the mound,
were ladies and gentlemen in brilliant costumes. Natives, too,
in the biight-hued dresses of holiday attire, helped to fill in the
already striking picture by clustering round the lines of the
troops and endeavouring to peer over their shoulders and
between their fixed bayonets. But neither ladies nor gentle-

226 WITH THE PBINCE IN INDIA.

men, Engliah nor Ponjabee soldiers, were the most notable of
those present. The dark hues of the artillery and Sikhs con-
trasted with the bright scarlet of the line; the deep, full
torbans of the Punjabees and the helmets of the Engli^, with
the snowy white puggarees of the Bengalese — all this and much
more might haye been noted, but they were not all. Only as
a setting to a rich gem such as might be gazed at again and
again, could all this be considered. You wonder what this may
be. On the top of the mound, close by the foundation stone,
stand some two hundred veterans, grizzled and -grey, their
breasts covered with medals and stars of valour. Their uni-
forms are as varied as are their castes and races. Sikhs tall
and stalwart, Bengalese small and wiry, Portuguese and half-
caste, Punjabees and natives of the Malabar coast, all are there.
These are the brave of Lucknow, the natives who kept yonder
charred ruined in those dark days when death stared them in
the face and escape seemed only . posi3ible by treachery.

Suddenly the guns under the trees thunder out a salute.
How the buildings rattle, how the noise echoes through the
corridors of the ruin ! From the very spot where that artillery
is placed — not one gun at a time, but fifty, loaded to the
muzzle with grape and canister, or crammed with heavy shot,
hurled missiles against those trembling walls. Ladies and
men, too, are actually shaking their heads at the clatter and the
din which these little nine-pounder Armstrongs make as they
are discharged singly. The veterans on the mound swerve not ;
they could tell you of an hour when the earth trembled with
the vibration of artillery, when thousands of blood-thirsty
ruffians, hidden away under the trees round the mound, were
discharging their muskets every moment at anything that ap-
peared like a human being on the walls of the Residency. One
gun, forsooth ! — that pandemonium of 1857 cannot be forgotten
in the clatter and the din of to-day. The firing is not intended,
however, to remind us of the terrible noise of the Lucknow

A LEVEE OF THE BE AVE. 22V

siege ; it is a salute — a sound of joy. The Prince is coming,
attended by his suite, to lay the foundation-stone of a memorial
to the native brave who fell in the %ht, in the presence of the
brave who survive.

All on a sudden the word of command is given for a Boyal
salute ; arms are presented along the lines ; the bands united
play the National Anthem, and the Prince and his suite, the
Duke of Sutherland, Lord Alfred Paget, Lord Suffield, Lord
Aylesford, Colonel Owen Williams, Major Sartorius, Mr,
KnoUys, and some other persons, come past the comer of the
ruins, and so upon the mound. The veterans raise their hands
to their foreheads ; the spectators bare their heads ; the Prince
bows ; and then Mr. Cooper, himself one of thia members of the
brave band who held the Residency, steps forward and delivers
an oration on the merits of the grey soldiers who stand before
the Prince. It is a subject upon which he may well be eloquent.
Who could not wax warm when dwelling on that fight of
heroes 1 His address, too, is extempore, and, what is more to
the purpose, at times impassioned. He remembers the dark
days when, had yonder brave men faltered, the dark sea of
lebellion had swallowed them up alive ; and, mindful of the fact
that he is one of those who owe their lives to the fidelity of the
vievx aoldats, he stints not language in telling of their deeds of
valour. You and I have heard addresses of which we grew
tired ] many a time we have wished the laboured speech could
be "taken as read." But in presence of the dark ruins, in
presence of the piece of stone which, hanging from the triangle
of wood, is to commemorate forever, telling to generations un-
born the grand deeds which faithful natives achieved, he may
well be careless of time. How one turns round and looks with
new interest at the tiny fortress, the mere house in fact, which
for five months sustained that terrible siege ! How shut out
from all the world it seems by that dense circle of trees I Why,
it is in a hollow, that hollow in the centre of a wide-stretching

228 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

plaan which it has taken 70a hoori in a swift m(»mng train to
pais over. Ton remember that when these yeteraxu^ were in
thooB battered walls, help was far away, and rengeanoe veiy
near. Ton need not fancy to paint the myriads of bloodthirsty
villains in the groyes, or working under cover of huts and
broken houses, dose by the Residency. Gaze around you ; place
a musket in the hands of the thousands who are now quietly
looking on tins peaceful sconce j send 500 men, women, and
duldren into the ^'fort'' once more, give to the S^khs and
Punjabee regiments, with many more of their comrades, |denty
or artillery, an unlimited supply of ammunition, and leave to
kill and destroy — ^thought need travel no further — yet you have
not then half pictured the scene which Lucknow beheld b^ore
Havelock had reached it, while yet Lawrence lived.

The Prince as he stands there is evidently no careless listener.
Without any sign of weariness he hears Mr. Cooper to the end,
and then, without notes of any kind, touches his hat and replies.
Brief but to the point are the words he chooses. He acknow-
ledges the bravery of the men he meets to-day ; he praises them
for their fidelity, and th^i points out that such monuments as
ihai about to be constructed must tend to the good of all, must
act as incentives to bravery and fidelity to Europeans and
natives alike/ Then, moving back to the st<me. His Boyal
H^hness takes the trowel in hand with all the air of an accomp-
lished mason, and spreading the mortar carefully, while the
veterans look curiously and inquisitively on, himself superin-
tends the placing of the stone, gives it three taps with the
mallet, and declares it well and truly laid.

Then comes the lev4e of the brava There is no raised dais,
no servants with maces, no punkah^bearers, no carriers <^ um-
brellas, no clerkly person to call over a roll of names. There
are those on the Prince's suite who would like something a
little more stately — some fitting ceremony in a proper place-
somewhere from which the common herd could be excluded

A LBVEE 01 TBE BRAVE. 229

and from which special correspondents might be shut out.
This is scarcely dignified enough for such exquisites ; and one
or two of them do not fail to saj so. But the Prince is of
more sensible stuff, is mcure of a man than manj around him,
and he holds his lev6e of the brave in sight of the place whel^
their glorious deeds were done. Standing, then, gd. the green
mound — a little in advance of his suite — ^his Koyal Highness
awaits the introduction of his courtiers. Major Cubitt at once
steps forwai'd to act as Master of the Ceremonies ; Canon Duck-
worth, minister of peace, but none the less admirer of the brave, ,
assumes the rdle of Assistant-Master of Ceremonies; Lord
Alfred Paget and General Probyn are close at hand to direct
the movements of the veterans as they pass by, and thus the
Court is formed.

The first who have the honour of being introduce^ to the
Prince are a number of scarlet^oated Jemindars and Soubad-
hars who have since the memorable days of 1857 risen from
the ranks to the dignity of officers. As they go by they salute
the Prince, and then, at the bidding of General Probyn, hold
out the handles of their swords, whereupon the Prince touches
them, and the veterans, saluting again, move on slowly. These
officers know their duty, are well disciplined, and have not for-
gotten the rules of the service. Not so those who follow them.
These have, since the days when they were on parade — ^yeaiB
ago in the case of many of them — ^lost sight of the golden maxim
of strict obedience, and are altogether unmindful of t£e injunc-
tion to " move on. " They linger, indeed, as long as they possibly
can, gazing wistfully into the face of the " Burra Sahib," the
Prince, for whose Boyal mother they once fought so well.
They are not content with one salute, or two even, but raise
their withered hands over and over again to their grey headsi
and smilingly bow to the great stranger without so much as a
notion of leaving the mound and making room for some one
else. The Prince, too, shows no haste to be rid of them, bat

230 1V1TH tHE PmifCE IN tNDlA.

good-naturedly bows to each of them several times, t^i^iHtig at
their honesty loyal enthusiasm, and forgetting for the moment
that the son is setting. Yery differently, however, does the
stern, though kindly General Probyn view the matter. All
must pass the Prince, or endless jealousies would be aroused
and grievous wrong done — ^therefore all must obey the rule of
motion, and go forward. So when one lingers long he is taken
gently by the arm, and passed quietly along to the rear of the
mound, generally receiving in such a case a kindly word from
Lord Alfred Paget or a pressure of the hand from the worthy
Canon Duckworth. The old soldiers seem to understand it all
— ^at any rate, they are the last men in the world to mutiny
now that they know what the Sahibs wisL

Then come by a number of turbaned veterans, in light brown
uniforms. Many of them have four medals on their breasts ;
they are now officers in the police, and admirable fellows they
ai-e. They, too, hold out their sword-handles, which are touched.
After them come a number of old men, whose appearance fills
the eyes of many present with tears. There is one who can
only walk with the aid of his two sons, for he is blind ; a
splinter of shell within the walls of the ruins deprived him
of sight ; another, who cannot walk at all, even with help,
but who comes by on the palms of his hands, swinging a
crippled body as he moves along. How that poor face lights
up with joy as he is addressed by the Prince, and actually
asked to extend his hand that his Boyal Highness may
touch it ! This is, indeed, an honour which he had never ex-
pected — to have his hand taken by one who is greater than the
greatest Princes of his own land. To be spoken to at all seems
too great an honour to one poor old fellow, who forthwith bursts
out crying, and has to be led away sobbing by Canon Duck-
worth. It is, indeed, too much for many of the poor souls, who
quite forget the necessity for going on, and, lost in amazement,
stand chattering and gibbering like bewildered monkeys. Some-

A LBVBB OP TME hBAVH. 231

times^ however, a smile is raised by the furtive attempt of
some disappointed one who has carefully prepared a petition
which he intends to present to the Prince. Furtively he con-
ceals it in the palm of his hand, and just when he thinks
General Probyn's quick eye is a little less wakeful than usual,
he pushes the paper into the Prince's hand. But it is all to no
purpose. The Prince would look at it, perhaps ; but he must
not. The crumpled, soiled document is promptly handed bacl;
to its owner, who shuffles away full of disappointment. What
is his grievance % Can it be that some of those brave ones who
saved India for us are in actual want 1 I hear a whisper that
such is the case. Would that that whisper could be proved un-
true i I fear it cannot.

In this way the procession moves past. There is a man with
only one leg and another with a curiously wounded foot, which
he shows the Prince ; another has no legs at all ; several have
only one arm. In uniforms they vary, as I have said, very
greatly. One old gentleman has got on a coat which looks as
though it belonged to a field-marshals uniform ] another looks
like a Frenchman of Pondicherry. They totter up one after
another ; some are touched on the hands ; others are specially
introduced to the Prince by Major Cubitt. Men who carried
messages through the enemy's camp; men who risked their
lives over and over again in open conflict; men who were
patiently faithful in the presence of all kinds of temptation and
danger — such were honourably mentioned as they went by.
Two hundred men of an Old Guard, superior in point of bravery
to the windy corps that made its boast that it died but never
surrendered ; two hundi-ed faithful followers of Horatius, who
in days of old kept the bridge ; two hundred valiant ones thus
passed by the Prince in presence of many thousands of their
countrymen just outside the city of Lucknow. Then, the levde
over, the troops once more presented arms, and again the band
played. The guns rattled out a Royal salute, and the Prince

232 WITH THE PBINCE IN INDIA.

passed to his carriage. While many a one, mindful of the days
in whidi the veterans gained their honours, wandered into the
Residency, through the vaults, between the bullet-scarred pil-
lars, and past the loopholed walls, wondering how so frail a
structure, riddled as it was with shot and shell, could he held
for an hour against the hordes of the rebellious soldiers — ^what
thoughts came into our minds at such a moment time forbids to
telL How the tablet which marks where Lawrence fell, the
board which points out where the BaiUie guard was stationed,
the charred walls and the sashless windows, affected such of us
as had never looked on so thrilling a scene before, need not be
dwelt upon. The lev6e of the brave was over ; darkness was
coming on ; it was high time to leave the scene of England's
pride and her enemies' humiliation.

The next day was partly spent in an inspection of the ruins
of Lucknow, and partly in a pig-sticking expedition, which was
about as unsuccessful as the previous attempts of the Koyal
party, and resulted in an accident to Lord Carington, who broke
his collar-bone while attempting to spear a boar.

On the previous evening, however, a short ceremony took
place in the Kaiser Bagh, or King's Besidence, i^rhieh deserves
some notice.

The Talukdars of Oude are, without doubt, a noble set of
men ; their dresses may be eccentric and their habits objection-
able, but in their veins runs the blood of the barons who had
titles when our respected ancestors lived upon acorns and made
their toilets with the aid of blue pigment. When, therefore, a
gilt card was received announcing that the Talukdars of
Oude " requested the honour " of my company, I looked upon
the missive with about the same feelings that would animate a
cabaUero of Spain were he invited by all their worships of
Castile to favour them with his company. There was nothing
on the document to denote the nature of the ceremony con-
templated. It might be a Nautch dance and a song or two from

A LEVEE OF TEE BBAVB. 233

the rival of Mr. Chuckerbutty, of Calcutta. It could not well
be a banquet^ for the hour was too late ; and if only an address
were to be presented to the Prince, the occasion could scarcely
be styled A/Ste. There was something very mysterious about
it, and I accordingly set off early in search of the famous hall,
was nshered in with equal expedition by a mute giant who
carried a sword, and so entered the apartment in which the
entertainment was to take place.

I remember, when very young, receiving as a ^esent from a
thoughtful friend a box of wood^i slabs on which were imprinted
representations of the Kings and Queens of England. But for
the knowledge that, I was actually with the Talukdars of Oude,
I should have imagined that those slabs had been vivified in
some unknown way, and that the Kings of England were all
walking about in the room. There were no Queens. Elizabeth
with her abnormally long bodice and huge frill, and the much
meeker Queen Anne, were neither of them to be seen ; but
King John most ^tinctly sat in a comer with the very crown
he always used to wear, according to those painted bricks, on
his head and his sceptre in his left hand, also like the ancient
picture. King Eichard, a little dark perhaps, but undoubtedly
the original Coeur de Lion, marched up and down with a great
hatchet in his belt and a very serviceable-looking steel coronet
on his head ; and although I could not detect Bufus of the red
hair, I came across Edward II. two minutes afterwards. Indeed,
had I still had those bricks with me, I could have fixed upon
the n^nes of every one present in a few minutes, for the twenty
or thirty gentlemen present all wore crowns, and though some
were seated on chairs and others squatted on the floor, they
looked all of them kings "esrery inch." One, however,
attracted my particular attention, and, without minute reference
to history, I named him Edmund the Uneasy. Incessantly this
worthy monarch wandered about as though he were the troubled
ghost of somebody who, having centuries ago hidden his crowi^,

15

234 WI^S: TEE PRINCE IN INDIA.

had come back to tell treasnr^seekers where tb find it. His
mission, however, turned out to be the very rererse <^ this, and
what that was will presently transpire. Up to this the Kings
were all alone — no one else had had the cariosity to come early
— bnt now the company began to arriye and to be placed. The
natives who came found no difficulty in this. The floor was
wide ; it was only necessary to preserve the line of march to a
throne which stood at one end of the room, so they pleasantly
sat down on the boards, crossed their feet and their hands, and
were happy. As for the Europeans^ they stood in the rear, or
walked out on to a large balcony where chairs were plaoedy and
whence they could see the illuminations of Lucknow.

All this^time Edmund the Uneasy flitted abouti anzioudy.
At length he appeared to gain confidence, and afber some con-
sideration invited several of us into an inner room where lay
the treasure he so carefully guarded. There were golden vessds
for betel nut and pan leaves, intended specially, we were told,
for the use of the Princess of Wales, though in what way her
Boyal Highness is to use them we were not told. But these
were only subsidiary gifts. The real present was a great crown
of crimson velvet and gold, covered with gems of considerable
value, and decorated with all the skill that natives could devise.
We were not allowed to touch the predous head-dress— only to
look, being kept at a very respectful distance, while the crown
was lifted an inch or so out of its case, and then popped back
as quickly as though it had been a sensitive plate which could
not bear the^ Hght. Just at this moment a band announced the
approach of the Prince, whereupon five or six Talukdars entered
the apartment and proceeded at once to take chaige of the
treasure. Then a procession was formed, wliich, between the
rows of people seated on the floor, passed up to where the
Prince was with the crown, and the betel nut and pan-leaf
cases, and a huge address on an enormous rdL I do not know
what th^ Prince thought of the apparition; but he had plenty

A LEVEE OF THE BBAVE. 235

of time to recover his composure before the address was finished;
for the declaration of loyalty from the Barons of Oude was not
a light or insignificant document, but a work <^ consid^able
labour, and as such required to be read slowly and with em-
phasis. At length it ended, the crown and other presents were
produced and accepted, the Prince returned thanks, and then
a general move was made first of all to the balcony for a peep
at the fire-works, and then to the supper table, where Taluk-
dars and people who tili that night were not even aware that
such notabilities existed sat down together and feasted A
notable fact in connection with the visit to Lucknow might
here be mentioned. Both on coming to i^ depiyrting from the
fSte the Prince received a royal salute of artillery; his every
movement, indeed, was the sigi^J for heavy firing — an arrange-
ment whidi seined to impress the native mind most satis-
factorily.

^I was standing by this well, sir,** said an old Sikh tome as
we passed through the Besid^icy, " saying prayers to my God,
when two bullets came and killed an English officer who was
on one side of me, and a comrade who stood && the other. I
come to this well every year now to say a prayer, and that is
why I am here to-day." It was a grand old veteran who thus
spoke, one who had been presented to the Prince the previous
day, on whose breast four medals and the star, which beats the
words "Ibr Valour," hung; so we thankfully accepted his
ottet to guide our portion of the purty over the ground so bravely
hM, by Sir Henry Lawrence.

Lucknow Residency has been too <rften described for a detail-
ed account of what the Prince saw to be written. Yet there
are several facts to be mentioned. We found the ruins them-
selves in excellent preservation ; the tops of the broken walls
had been covered with a compositicm which retained the loose
stones in their places; and ihe Residency bids fair to stand,
blacky shot-riddled, ruin as it is, as a monument of English

236 ^^^S: THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

endurance. Here and there plants have climl>ed the walla^
found their way through holes, and covered desolate corners
with a warm covering of leaves ; but this does not affect the
appearance of the place. These bare walls tell their own tale,
though the ground round them is now converted into one of the
loveliest gardens, and roses and honeysuckles are being train^
up the tower. Happily the spot where each particularly brave
action and heroic deed occurred Has been fixed, so that the
Prince as he went along could learn, from tables fixed on little
pillars specially erected, which was Sikh-square, where were
Inglis' quarters, where the celebrated house in which Mr. Gub-
bins lived, and in what room the brave Sir Henry Lawrence
died. Even the rent by which that fatal shell entered was
pointed out, and the places struck by pieces of the fragments
noted. Some one complained that the monument which was
erected some years ago inside the garden, had been placed upon
a mound, and by that means a full view of the position was ob-
structed. But when the celebrated tower was ascended the
whole was seen at once, and the fearful odds against which the
handful of British soldiers fought appreciated.

A field of moderate size, partly enclosed by a wall, partly by
a hedge, containing two or three buildings of no very solid
description — such was the place which these brave people held.
They were shut out from all the world, could see nothing but
the trees and the enemy, except when they ascended the tQwer,
where the distant river and the stone bride by which the muti-
neers eventually escaped could be descried. I do not think the
Prince went down into the cellars in which the women and
children were placed, but some of us did, and found the place
in the same condition as they left it in, except for the fact that
all the Smiths, Browns, Joneses, and Eobinsons in the world
appear to have written their names on the wall with a number
of remarks, amongst which passages of Scripture are frequent.
It is a pity that for such an outrage they were not shut up in

A LEVEE OF THE BBAVB. 237

•
the vaults for a few days in the hot weather — ^their loquacity

would have diminished with considerable rapidity.

The Secunder Bagh, where two thousand rebels were caught
and put to death, a great square enclosed by a high wall, re-
mains as it was, save that a road has been run through at one
end. Still the walls are otherwise untouched; the loopholes
which the Sepoys made are there yet ; the gate is a ruin, and
the tomb inside, a wreck. All over the ground a number of
young trees are shooting up, so that in process of time the scene
of the massacre will be exceedingly pretty. Where Havelock
rests in the Alumbagh roses cover the ground ; the walls here,
too, are untouched, the breaches made in them have been lefb
as they were, and the palace itself has not been repaired. Most
of the party received from the hands of a native who takes
charge of the grave a bunch of roses and other blossoms as a
souvenir of the place.

At Cawnpore the Prince's visit was a very short one. His
Royal Highness arrived late in the afternoon, dined at the house
of one of the local civilians, visited the scenes of the massacre,
the Memorial Gardens, the river, and the church, and then took
his departure for Delhi A full moon had risen in a cloudless
sky when we started for these historic places. Of course there
was a certain order to be observed, quite diflferent from what
the chronologial course of events would warrant, but in the
end everything was shown us.

The first place to which we drove was the well, situated in
the centre of magnificent gardens, at the gates of which all
natives were requested to remain. Slowly moving up the path-
way between richly-flowering beds of roses, the cuttings for
which had come from England, we came at last to the Memorial,
" sacred to the perpetual memory " of the slain. As is already
well known, the well is covered with a marble seraph, which,
with outstretched wings, watches over the place where the dead
were hidden. I cannot describe the effect of the bright moon's

23d If^ITH TEE PRIKCB tN INDIA.

rays on the white marUe work-rhow the whole memorial stood
out in its lonelj grandeur on that delightful night. They did
well to exclude natives from the place ; the feeling aroused by
the sight of i^t memorial and the adjacent graveyard is not
congenial to them. The slaughter-house where women and
children were hacked to pieces is gone, but scores of graves,
some with monuments erected by " passes-by," by " brother-
soldiers," by " men of the regiment,** and some without either
name or date, tell their own story. Over each hang roses from
England ; the grass is carefully tended, the pathway admirably
kept. If they must be buried in alien soil, no more beautiful
spot could be discovered in the woild.

From thence to the Mem^ial Church, which is an extremely
pretty red brick building, and built on the site of Wheeler's en-
trenchment, was no very great distance. It has only just been
consecrated, and has therefore an appearance of newness, which
does not quite accord with the objects around it. It also boasts
an echo, which, I ion told, bewilders the clergyman and as-
tonishes his hearers, so that, en the whole it is scarc^y a suc-
cess. But we had little time for a prolonged inspection, having
to hurry away to the river side where the Nana began his miser-
able butcheries.

C<Mning to the top of a slope which led down to the water's
edge, we were requested to dismount, l^ere being no road for
carriages; and quitting the vehicles, therefore, at the corner
where the victims first gave themselves into the hands of their
destroyers, and where later on the brother of the Nana was
hanged on a gallows, we passed down the gully which was be-
fore us. It was no great length, some two huncked yards per-
haps, and then the Hindoo temple in which the Nana planted
his cannon was reached. The scene *of so much villainy is
happily a ruin, yet not so greatly destroyed as to prevent a ftdl
appreciation of what took place on that m^norable day. On
the lefb of the pile was the place at which the fugitives embark-

A LEVEE OP TSE MAVJBI. ^39

ed ; their desire was to pass the temple, and so go down the
river. The Nana had stationed his men all along the shore on
the opposite side of the river, and in the temple too, and how
he used them need not be related again. An aged Hindoo said
that the Nana, after giving the order for the massacre, ran away.
I oonnot trust myself to give expression to the feelings which
we experienced as we looked at the astonishing scene in the
bright moonlight.

1

CHAPTER XXITL

A RBVIBW OF DELHI.

Although it 18 annecessary to describe at length the Prince's
entry into Delhi, there can be no doubt that of all places in
India this city of the Moguls boasts historic recollections most
dear to Englishmen. It was the scene of fighting such as must
ever stamp our soldiers as the bravest of the brave, the centre
and the stronghold of the mutiny, the key to the possession of
India ; and when it was proposed, therefore to hold a grand
review on the plains where less than twenty years ago the
great struggle took place, English from all parts ci the land,
from the plains of Madras to the hills of Simla, from the mouth
of the Hooghly and the frontier of the Punjab, from Bombay
and even from Ceylon, came to see and be seen. Nor were
these all the strangers. A goodly number had come out from
the mother country itself to be present at the spectacle ; there
were American Generals and a German Count; a nervous little
man whispered, too, that there were Russian spies, which was
very likely true, but also very possibly only the creation of the
imagination. Foremost among the spectators of course was the
Prince, in whose honour, indeed, the,^ was to take place —
one which will long be remembered in military annals.

Six o'clock had scarcely struck, when, driving into the road
which leads to the Cashmere State, I found myself in a motley
throng such as could not be met with outside of India. People
in every description of clothing, from the simple waistcloth to
the thick quilt, people with turbans and people with hats, peo-
ple on horseback and people afoot, riding on elephants, on camels,
on mides, on cows, some in open carrriages, and others in the plea-

A BEVIEW OF DELHL 241

sant Tehicles of the country — contrivances somewhat of the
shape of parrot cages, verj little larger, and much less inviting
— some again in bullock gharries, and others in nondescript
carts, which, for the want of a better generic title, must be
called gigs, hundreds in close oblong boxes, light cabs, and
• many more in palanquins, all crowded together in the road,
hustling, shouting, shrieking at each other, beating their ani-
mals, occasionally thrashing each other, and always regardless
of the comfort or convenience of everybody else save themselves
and friends, so anxious were they to be at the review. For
many reasons it is w^ll that the streets of Delhi are not narrow.
They might be the hiding-place of rebels ; they would certainly
be the receptacle of much that is equally objectionable, and,
what is more to my purpose just now, would have been simply
impassable to such a mass of struggling life as filled them that
morning. The elephants would have trodden down the mules,
the camels would have cannoned against the horses, bullocks
would have run wild, gharries been upset, aiid soldiers and
civilians alike, horsemen and footmen too, would have been
mingled in disaster. Happily this was not the case. We
grumbled, we shouted; some, sad to relate, used expressions
which would have shocked good Lord Chesterfield; we now
and then grazed wheels, trod on each other's corns — ^it was just
as well not to tread on the elephant's toes — ^but, though we all
^nade everybody else and ourselves supremely uncomfortable,
open collision was avoided, and, like a very troubled stream,
we slowly rolled along. Still the place was conveniently fitted
for a struggle-^the very air seemed to smell of powder.

We were in the exact place where in ,1857 the most desper-
ate fights oh record took place. For were we not under the
shelter of the Cashmere Gate, that terrible entrance which wit-
nessed the slaughter and the final entry of the British troops —
the place where deeds of valour were done at which both lis-
tener and recounter even to^iay turn palel Why, yonder was

242 I^TH THE FBINCE IN INDIA.

the breach made by th<» Englisb guns, now filled up by mad,
but never to be rebuilt, fit monument of English pluck and
Mohammedan defeat. We can fancy how the crowd of treach-
erous Sepoys fled as red-coated soldiers poured in at this gate
and over the wall, catching them at the base of a stone triangle
and bayonetting them as they ran. Some such struggling as
then was seen we are suffering now. Ours, however, is, ^Aer
all, a peaotful fight, a bloodless war, a strife for place, not for
life— we are not revengeful or despairing ; we only wish to get
away from each other to be the best of friends for ever. For-
tunately for us, no battery is placed on the ridge opposite to
me^ us as we pass through the gate, and throw us' into more
confusion than ever; we cross the breach in the wall and the
mosque from whence it was made, and so into the open country,
though not into an open road. There is no space anywhere —
it is going to the Derby in the good old days, in ccmipany with
a more disorderly thi'ong than ever filled the way to Epsom.
A very Babel, too, is this place, so great is the confusion of
tongues, and so intent is everybody upon making as much noise
as possible. Our onward progress is more due to the fright of
the draught animals than to any skill on ike part of their
drivers^ as many a broken panel and splintered pole abundantly
testify. As we go along we see long lines of elephants drawn
up on either side. One is for the Prince; its head is covered
with a mantle of gold made wholly of gold mohurs, worth
at least thirty shillings a piece, and not so large on the face as
an English sovereign — ^you may guess the valua Its howdah
is of scarlet doth, richly embroidered with gold; the Imperial
crown is on one side of its trappings, the three feathers are on
the opposite one. Other elephants have less splendid equip-
ment, yet all are equally decorated, and seem to know it. A
mile further on we find the Prince's horses waiting to take him
on to the review ground ; about a mile further still is the flag-
staff itself:

A tlEVIEfV' OF BULHI. ^43

Once in position we have time to survey the field. A wide-
stretching plain surrounded by trees is that qpon which you
stand. In front of you are the] troops drawn up, the infantry
in columns of battalions, in their rear the cavalry, artillery, and
siege train. At the distance which separates you from them,
you might imagine yourself standing beside a huge table on
which a kind of Kriegspiel is presently to be played, so level is
tiie ground, so compact and toylike look the columns. Every
kind of uniform is there — English, Aff^an, Bengalee, and
Sikh. There is unfortunately no control or transport service
present ; a hundred camels or so are close behind you, but they
are not in review order, and will not be officially inspected*

In the immediate neighbourhood of the flagstaff an open
space has been reserved for the Prince ; on each side c^ this
rows of carriages are drawn up, and then, extending in a long
line, leaning over ropes as though they were expecting races
rather than a review, are tens of thousands of natives. Had
you time, this crowd is worthy of minute inspection. You
would see men passing huge pipes one to the other, taking a
prol<mged draw and then handing them on; and scores who have
brought out with them not dogs, but little birds, partridges,
hawks, or, more proudly still, the jay, perched upon their arms.
For the last, be it known, is the bird in whom Vishnu especi-
ally delights ; it is his steed, carries' the god, and is venerated
accordingly. A curious fancy is this of the Hindoos for
feathered pets ; they stroke them, tend them, kiss than, talk
to them, just as the Arab does to his horse, or you at home do
to your pet dogs.

While you are looking at them, howev^, tiie noise of horses*
feet behind you draws attention to the fact that Lord Napier
and his staff are coming by, and the good old General, attended
by Colonel Martin Dillon, his private secretary, dashes to the
front at once. He has hardly taken his place b^ore the Prince
rides on to the ground, advances to the General, shakes hands

244 ff'ITH THE FBINCE IN INDIA.

with him, exchanges a word with Colonel Dillon, and then
proceeds to inspect the troops. To us, who have to wait behind,
this would in any other place be a tedious business. But on
such ground as this what half-hour could be badly spent t The
Prince is actually on the very soil where the first battle of the
mutiny, excepting a slight skirmish at Meerut, was fought.
You can just see the walls of Padlee Ke Serai, where the fear-
ful struggle took place. An officer who stands by tells you
how on that day two thousand English troops routed hosts of
the enemy, captured twenty-six well-served guns, and drove
the discomfited wretches headlong into the city — ^how, at one
period of that action, he became so confused by the uniforms
which the rebels wore — spick and span direct from the arsenal —
that he gave orders to his men to cease firing, so nearly did
the enemy resemble English troops. And another recounts
hair-breadth escapes, relates to you how the deep seam across
his face was made by one of a great party of Sepoys who cut
him off from his men, and almost from the face of the land alto-
gether ; while a third, a Victoria Cross man, modestly describes
the fighting which took place where he stood. They occupied
the ridge which faces you before noon on that fearful day, and
began the investment of Delhi which resulted in the suppres-
sion of the mutiny.

At length the bands have ceased to play the National An-
them in different keys, the Prince is returning to the flagstaff,
and the musicians themselves are massing for the purpose of
playing as the troops go by. Then you hear " Bonnie Dun-
dee,'' and know that, if not the Campbells, at least the artillery
are coming. With superb dressing the famous chestnut Troop
A of the A Brigade sweeps past, the guns in exactest line, the
men and equipment perfection itself, and the 2nd Battery, with
Armstrong guns, is quite its equal. The 3rd Battery has some
white horses in the centre of its line, alid these somewhat spoil
the effect ; but the 4th Battery, under Major Fitzgerald, is

A BEVJBW OF DELHI. 245

simply superb. This completes the Horse Artillery, of whom
it may be said that a finer brigade was never seen. The Qeld
batteries follow, headed by Colonel Corder, six of them all ad-
mirably turned out, and presenting a magnificent appearance —
in all sixty guns, well horsed, well manned, perfectly discip-
lined, and fit for anything. It would be invidious to pick any
out from amongst the others — they are all so good.

And now came a sight which could not be witnessed in
England. A company of Bengal Infantry, in blue uniforms and
red turbans, marched two deep, with their curved swords on
their shoulders, followed by a number of mules bearing all kinds
of curious and useful implements. There were six little moun-
tain guns, with the use of which King Theodore became so well
acquainted; there were engineering implements of all kinds,
and generally all that is useful to the soldier in mountain war-
fare — in all thirty-six mules well equipped, after which came
. another company of men armed like the first. Then the huge
forms of some particularly large elephants were seen approach-
ing with people on their backs^ carrying little steel picks in
their hands. Wondering what use these particular animals
were put to, we eagerly leant forward, and, in doing so, saw
that three 40-pounder Armstrong guns, each drawn by two
elephants, were being brought along as easily as though they
were "unconsidered trifles light as air" in reality. On they
came at a slow, measured pace, apparently quite oblivious of the
fact that they were drawing a siege train which it would have
taken twentyrfour or thirty horses to have moved, and quite
double that number to take for any distance over Indian roads
and rough ground. Traction engines indeed i What need of
engines at all in a country which boasts such natural means of
locomotion, save when rapidity of transit is required) The
elephants go by, a bullock train along with them, dragging
three large howitzers and tumbrils for ammunition, and then we
prepare for the cavalry, who are now coming on.

246 WITE THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

But what tune is that t It was " Bonnie Dundee" just now,
reminding us sadly of that terrible hour we spent in the native
entertainment at Madras, where four uncomfortable scarecrows
sang it with a oonch-shell and tom-tom accompaniment. There
is some confusion, for the Scotch melody is not yet finished by
some of the bands, and some of the players are not yet certain
that " it's up wi' the bonnets o* bonnie Dundee." At length,
however, the struggle ceases, and the tune, ** Among our ancient
mountains," rises above everything. The 10th Hussars are
ooming by, and the Prince's air salutes them. I* need not say
how the old rivals of the 12th Lancers looked; three such
squadrons as theirs are scarcely to be seen anywhere, certainly
nowhere but in die English Army. Yet they are worthily
followed, for, to the " March of the Men of Harlech," the 4th
Bengal Cavalry come by, their serviceable blue uniforms and
turbans suiting them welL Lord Mark Kerr says h^ could lead
such men against any troops in the world, and he is no mean
judge. They are a Hussar regiment ; those who come next are
the 10th Bengal Lancers, coloured XJhlans, with red and black
pennons, revolvers at their waist, and medals on the breast of
nearly every one. They go past magnificently, quite equal to the
11th Hussars who follow, gay in their cheny-coloured breeches
and high boots, and especially noticeable for the white squadron
which comes second, which would be perfection were it not that
they have a roan and two duns to make up the number. The
5th Bengal Hussars, whose officers have breast-plates of gold
lace, march next. A buff regiment of exceptionally tall men
follow ; they are the Central India Horse. Somebody whispers
that their commander has picked the best squadrons out of the
two regiments he has, but perhaps they are only envious of
their admirable appearance. We notice that the front rank
of each squadron are lancers, while the rear rank are armed as
hussars, with sword snd carbine.

We have beard of mounted infantry before, but what say

A BBVIBW OF DELHI. 247

European soldiers to a cavalry regiment composed lialf of
lancers and half of hussars? The helmets of thia officers are
of purple velvet and gold, the most superb head-dress I
have ever seen. As to the 13th Hussars, who follow them, and
whose officers, like their brethren of the 10th, have leopard
skins on their saddles, but little can be said in praise ; tbey are
scarcely so good as the 6th Bengal Cavalry, who have made all
their troop pivot men lancers, the rest being hussars. The 15th
Mooltanees, in dark green dresses and red puggarees, a wild set
of horsemen, go by in excellent order just afterwards, followed
by the 15th Hussars, who are in good condition ; and the rear
is brought up by the 1 1th Bengal Lancers, in dark blue uniforms,
the same regiment which Probyn once commanded, the name
of which spread far and wide to the terror of the rebels. With-
out loss of time the infantiy go by — English and native vieing
with each other to do their best. Needless is it to specify each
as they pass — ^all are good. Perhaps the 73rd of the line are
the best, with the 15th Sikhs, tall, strongmen in scarlet coats
and yellow striped turbans, as formidable rivals. To the eyes
of such of us as are used to military spectacles in England, the
appearance of the Bifle Brigade, as it comes on in black hel-
mets with black puggarees, looks strange, and, in good truthi
they are almost outdone in their march past by two battalions
of Ghoorkas, who are dressed in dark green with black forage
caps, and step out as well as any troops in the service. They
are not very big men ; they are little fellows, of a CSiinese type
almost, very like the savages from Assam whom we saw a week
or two ago at Sir Bichard Temple's garden party. Tet that
they are valiant in the fight we well know, for they were
Ghoorkas with whom Sir Charles Beid held the ridge opposite
Delhi for five long months in face of all the effi)rts of the rebels.
. Then, too, there is the 33rd Native Infantry, recruited almost
entirely from herdsmen, and led by Colonel James Harris, of
Chinese fome^ who are as well drilled and set up as any regi-

248 WITS THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

ment could well be, and an admirable proof of what can .be
effected by an intelligent commander who has skill and patience.
Other regiments there are which deserve praise of the highest
kind, but to recapitulate their names would be to write a long
catalogue for which you would not care. Suffice it to say that
the army corps thus placed in the field reflects the highest pos-
sible credit upon Lord Napier and his excellent secretary,
Colonel Martin Dillon. The hero of Magdala and his alter ego
may well be proud of the force which the Prince reviewed.

CHAPTER XXIV,

9HS BATTLB ON THE BIDGE.

Were the fata of the Empire dependent — ^which happily ifc is
not — upon the battle which took place just outside Delhi on
the Friday and Saturday during the Prince's visit, it would
doubtless be matter of greatest interest to 'know exactly how
the contending forces were disposed, with a thousand other
technical details dear to a soldier's heart. But as, after aU, the
fighting was unreal — ^very unreal indeed — and ended only in
fiasco and smoke, I do not propose to trouble you with more of
such particulars than are absolutely necessary, but to take you
at once to the field in the capacity of a spectator who is quite
indisposed to be critical, but anxious to see of what stuff are
our troops in India, and of what capacity their commanders.
To reach the scene of the struggle it is necessary that you
should pass out by the Cashmere Gate, close by the famous
breach, and so over the rocky riflge which, in 1857, was the
vantage-ground from which English soldiers peppered their
rebellious adversaries. This latter place wo^d, in case of
actual fighting, be a very difficult part to assail; in fact, it
could be rendered impregnable by a force sufficient to hold it.
Such being the case, it was not given to Sir Charles Reid, who
commanded the army of defence, but was reckoned only as an
ulterior line in case the troops whose object it was to prevent
Delhi from assault should have to fall back in disorder. It is
for this reason that we find the defenders a couple of miles in
front of the ridge, occupying a straight line of ground, the left
of which is oh a canal, the centre on a village called Wazeerpore,
situated in a wood just as was the German centre during the
manoeuvres of 1874 at Hildesdorf, and the right on another

16

250 WITH THE PEINOB IN INDIA.

hamlet named Daheerpore. All round these points is a "wide
stretching plain, without cover for troops of any kind, and it is
oyer this that General Hardinge has to adyance to the attack.
Beid's force is behind entrenchments in the line I have m^i-
tioned ; Hardinge's army in front of it, but some miles distant.
It being now nearly eleven o'clock, we are able to take a view
of our position. Away on the extreme right are the heavy
Armstrong guns drawn by elephants, the mortar battery drawn
by bullocks, a battery of horse artillery, and our cavalry, con-
sisting of the iOth and 11th Hussars, the 4th and 5th Bengal
Cavalry, the 2nd Punjab Cavalry, and the Central India Horse,
all hidden away in a little wood. The 2nd Infantry Brigade,
consisting of two battalions of Ghoorkas and the Rifles, are in
the centre ; and on the extreme left, under Brigadier-General
Brown, is the 1st Brigade, comprised of the 73rd Foot (English)
and the 33rd and 11th Native Infantry. Two brigades of
infantry are somewhere close to Daheerpore. They hold their
ground well, do nothing very noteworthy, and in the end are
held to have defeated the attempts of their opponents.

We who are just now on the extreme left have something
very pretty and interesting to. look at, for the commander there
— Colonel Harris, of the 33rd Native Infantry — a soldier of
great experiencey^one of those who fought on the ridges in 1857
and was desperately wounded. He has seen plenty of service
in China and elsewhere, and earned many an honourable dis-
tinction, but while the army is in the hands of Society, he
stands less chance of promotion than if he had done nothing
more than rely on influential friends. Our left is, as I have
said, the canal, and the two battalions of native infantry, half
a battery of artillery, three companies of sappers, and a troop of
native cavalry, are holding a long shelter-trench, which reaches
from the water's edge to the wood of Wazeerpore. In that the
73rd Infantry, with half a battery of guns, are posted. The
canal has a banked pathway on either side, and on tiiis, the

THE BATTLB ON THE RIDGE. 2i51

left side of the water^ Colonel Harris has constructed an en-
trenchment capable of concealing the three guns he has with
him ; {^most strong enough to resist the fii*e of artillery. Down
in this temporary bastion are posted the trio of cannons, their
muzsdes peeping through tiny portholes just big enough to admit
of their discharge and nothing more. In the low ground under
the pathway the cavalry are hidden out of sight. The infantry
men of the 33rd N.I. and the 11th crouch down in the shelter-
trench, and two or three companies with some mortars that
have been posted along the canal up to the point which has
been fixed as the extremity of ground to be manoeuvred over,
are all in their places. Not a head is to be seen, not a sound is
heard — all we want is an enemy. The brigade opposed to us,
as our scouts tell us, is that commanded by Colonel Basden, a
gentleman who has not apparently instilled much teiTor into
the hearts of our men. They do not believe he can take the
position, and they shake their black heads and show their white
teeth as they look over the top of their shelter, and laugh at
the English who are coming against them. For remember that
to take this line of Sepoys Colonel Basden has a battery of
artillery, three troops of horse, two battalions of English troops,
the 1st of the 8th Foot and the 85th Foot, with the 32nd
Native Infantry, to watch the 73rd, who are at Wazeerpore.
Just while we are looking out the cavalry does make its appear-
ance on the other side of the canal, but rushes away directly
fifty shots are discharged, so that for another half-hour we are
quiet, and can only hear a distant banging of guns. At length
there is a movement in our front ; it is certain the enemy is
coming, for two miles distant we can descry by the aid of a glass
the white faces, white helmets, scarlet coats, and bright bayonets
of the English battalions, as they advance, in close skirmishing
order, only one pace apart, upon the trench. Of course we expect
to see their approach heralded by artillery fire ; very naturally, we
look round for ihi^ cavalry rvhidi but lately disappeared, but

252 WITH THB PBINCE IN INDIA.

there are none of them present ; so our men, without more ado,
wait till the enemy is within range, and then open a rattling fire
upon them such as no English or German troops could &axL
Suddenly up rides an umpire out from the attacking force, one
Colonel Chippendale, and in a confused manner gives us the
order to retire. Of course our commander remonstrates, but
this military Daniel come to judgment refuses to hear a word,
and back we have to go, till Colonel Harris points out firmly
that his force behind shelter is much superior to that of the
enemy in the open, whereupon Colonel Chippendale is obliged
to yield, and gallops away rather faster than he came, to tell
our opponents that they must go back. In actual warfare they
would never have done so ; a few might perchance have escaped
our rifies, artillery, and cavalry, but Colonel Basden and all his
merry men who were not shot would have been l^aken prisoners
to a certainty. It was altogether the most ridiculous exhibition
I have ever seen. Two battalions of infantry marched two
miles in the open to attack more than their own numbers
snugly eniarenched and supported by cavalry and artillery, with
guns posted in Wazeerpore Wood raking the flank of the
advancing force every moment.

But, grotesque as this spectacle is from a military point of
view, something much more funny is about to follow. We are
all in our trenches. A company and a half of the Englishmen,
who came across the plain just now are ordered out of action,
and we are wondering what will be the next move of the
strategic Basden, when Captain Dyke, who, we know, commands
the artillery of that gentleman's brigade, comes pleasantly along
the path on our side of the canal, his charger caracoling as
though it were heading a procession. There is no hesitation,
no distrust; he gently ambles up to our trenches, and, pull-
ing up, says, ** Can you tell me where Basden's brigade is V*
** Of course I can," is Colonel Harris* reply, as he lays hold of
Captain Dyke's bridle-reins ; ** only, as you are my prisoner, the

THE BATTLE ON THE RIDGE. 253

news won't be worth much to you," sajdng which he led the
astonished Dyke gently into our enclosure, took his parole,
and sent him to the rear. Now, where one sheep goes the rest
are sure to follow, and we had not to wait long for Captain
Dyke's battery. A quick-eyed Sepoy descried it, Colonel Harris
prepared for it, and a gun was trained on to the pathway, as
it came on. Why should it fear 1 Was not its commander in
front, and had there been any alarm 1 So it trotted forward,
with the canal on one side and a precipice of twelve feet on
the other, tmtil it got another four hundred yards, when our gun
was discharged point blank at it. Had this been a real fight,
yonder battery would have been overthrown at once, for seven
hundred rifles are pointed at it, three guns cover it, and the
Punjab Cavalry are all ready to rush upon its flank. Again
the men, like their leader, are not distrustful. They imagine
that a mistake has been made. They are determined to con-
sider us as friends, and so they come on still further. We are
determined to claim them as prisoners. Colonel Harris orders a
company of the 33rd to spring from their trenches and run along
the bank, and then calls to the gunners to surrender. There
is no option — the native riflemen have every one of them at
their mercy. They must submit — the choice is not pleasant,
but what can they do in presence of five times their number 1
They accordingly give in ; are conducted down the bank under
the escort of half a company of sappers and half a company of
infantry ; hand up their linch-pins and washers, their ammuni-
tion and arms; and are then led to the rear, guns and all,
guarded by native troops. What use are the boasted English
artillery if they can walk into such a trap 1 And now we hide
away once more in hopes of other wanderers. Nor are we dis-
i^pointed. Five minutes elapse, a rumble of wheels is heard ;
we look up very cautiously, and see the spare ammunition
wagons of the battery, their hospital doolies, and their provision
cartS; all coming along. No gun is fired this time^ for the

254 ^TS TEB FRINGE IN INDIA.

Qaartermaster-General of the enemy's camp can be seen in his
cherry-coloured trousers riding at the head of the train —
Captain Oamac^ of the 11th Hussars. A troop of cavalry is got
in readiness, a company of infantry fixes bayonets, and as soon
as Captain Camac shouts out, " Have you seen — r they are
upon him. A bold man is this Quartermaster-C^neral, used
to fight and to danger, and without ado he makes a struggle
for liberty. Down the bank, so steep that in dese^iding it
just now a gun was nearly upset, he dashes, cutting through
the Sepoys, albeit that one discharges a rifle close to his ear,
and for an instant it seems that he will get clear. But the
cavalry close up round him, twenty Sepoys spring upon his
bridle, and he is powerless at last, to be at once led in, sent
to the rear, and offered some luncheon. So, too, are the
drivers of the wagons with their charge all placed under guard of
native soldiers. You need not look round to see how the
Sepoys enjoy aU this. The low chuckle which indicates satis-
faction is heard on every side. What can be thought of white
sahibs who run into such a snare ) On the left, too are now
perceived the enemy's cavalry, the three troops we saw before,
just the other side of the canal, and almost within easy rifle
ranga A very few moments and they will be our own. The
artillery is being ti'ained on them, the infantry is being got
ready, and the cavalry are in saddle, when an excited jemadar
gives his men the order to fire ; a musket or two is discharged,
and the horsemen, taking the hint, wheel round, and rtish away
without ever finding the artillery of which they are in search.
We should have liked to introduce them to each other in rear
of our entrenchment, but that unfortunate jemadar has pre-
vented a meeting.

While all this has been going on, the cavalry near Daheerpore
have been preparing for a fight, and by this time are advancing
in full force,. excepting only the few squadrons which have been
detailed for other duty, upon each other. Ten minutes' ride

THE BATTLE ON TEE RIDGE. 255

brings us to the yillage, from whence we are able to watch all
that passes. On our right are the 11th Hussars, supported by
the 10th. In front of the houses are three squadrons of die
6th Bengal Cavalry and three of the Central India Horse. All
are in line, except one squadron of the latter, which is about a
hundred yards in rear. The reserve is formed by the 2nd Pun-
jab Cavalry and the 4th Bengal, and these are placed on the
left of a village. Now, were these in the hands of an experi-
enced cavalry general going into action, there can be no doubt
as to how they should be used. Captain Chevenix Trench's
admirable translation of the new German cavalry regulations
and our own new ordei*s, which, if I mistake not, were issued
somewhere about last June, would dictate all that is required.
You remember that we are in an open plain ; that we are sup-
ported by the elephant train of 40-pounder Armstrongs ; that
we have a mortar battery to aid us, and a battery of horse
artillery in rear. The enemy's cavalry are well in sight ; already
the huge guns drawn by the elephants have opened upon them,
so effectually that the 15th Hussars are ordered on to fight, and
any German cavalry officer would tell you in a moment how to
overwhelm and destroy a whole force opposed to you. But,
fortunately for the unmilitary spectator, the Prince has ex-
pressed a desire to see a charge, and although under actual
circumstances this would not take place, and the enemy would
be in full flight long before the horsemen had time to manoeuvre
upon their flank, the request must be listened to, and a piece
of unsoldierly performance gone through. So we allow the
squadron of the 15th Bengal Cavalry to approach our left flank,
accompanied by two guns, the 13th Hussars to advance against
our 11th, and the 6th Bengal Cavalry, with two squadrons of
the 15th, to come towards our centre. Then the fun begins.
You are perfectly well aware that nothing of the kind could pos-
sibly happen in war, and you are therefore not very much alarm-
ed when you see the 13th and 1 1th Hussars rush full tilt at each

256 f^TH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

other. On they go at a terrible charge, the 13th going through
a little stream which runs by Daheepoi'e at headlong speed.
There is every prospect of a collision ; when suddenly the charge
is stopped, the men being at a distance of ten yards only from
each other, and victory is declared in favour of the 13th. They
cannot, however, advance, for the 10th is in front of them, so
they scramble off the ground without more ado. By this time
the Centi*al India Horse and the 5th Bengal Infantry are foim-
ing up and preparing to charge the enemy, which consists, as I
have already stated, of native horsemen. On they go, too, at a
headlong speed, their turbaned heads lowered, their lances and
swords ready, and a fight takes place which ends in the defeat
of the enemy and the ordering out of action of a squadron or
two of them. The extended line on our side is admitted to
have woa, and notwithstanding that the attacking force has dis-
mounted some of its men for the purpose of using them as
skirmishers, we are admitted to have outflanked and beaten
them. Then, while everybody is wondering what will be the
next ridiculous spectacle, the sound to cease firing is heard, and
the battle all along the line is ended. Infantry regiments hear
the word of command, and go home, officers jump into the sad-
dles and ride away, while we join a i)leasant tiffin party and
lunch on the ground which but a few minutes before, was so
hotly contested.

CHAPTER XXV.

VEATS OF SKILL AND STBEKOTH.

Yet if the battle at Delhi was somewhat theatrically man-
aged, there was a contest of a different nature on the following
Monday which was very real indeed. It had been announced
that after a cavalry parade in the morning the Prince would be
present at some sports in the camp of the 15th Hussars, at
which both English and native soldiers from the whole army
would appear as competitors. As on the day of the review,
therefore, all fashionable Delhi turned out; some on horses,
elephants, and camels, others in vehicles, with multitudes on
foot. For just then the native of Delhi was quite ready to don
his most startling dress at a moment's notice, and would, I be-
lieve, have slept in it if that arrangement would have ensured
his gazing at every sight engendered of the Royal visit. This
being the case, he systematically appeared everywhere with
his children and his birds, leaving only his wife at home. She
never came out. Unlike the dame of Madras or Bombay, she
might be curious, but she must not be visible; she might
see, but must not be seen. No rows of handsomely-attired
ladies with olive complexions and long oval eyes welcomed
the entry of the Prince to the old capital of India; no
buUock-gharries full of native damsels, rolled and jolted on
the camp-ground to look at the sports. Had the revelry
been held in front of the houses in the Chadni Chauk, inquisi-
tive faces might have been pressed against the gratings
which act as windows in the native houses. But, there being
no houses near from which they could look, the Hindoo and
Mahommedan ladies were shut out from witnessing the sports;

258 f^TH THE VEINCE IN INDIA.

while their lords put on the best puggaree and quilted co&t, and
sallied forth for the day. However, it was not for them that
the fete took place, but for the English ladies and gentlemen,
who came up in hundreds, and began a grand pic-nic an hour
before the time announced for the spcnrts. It was a bright day.
The space was pleasantly shut in by trees; all round, under the
shade, well-appointed equipages might be seen. There were
luncheon-baskets of all shapes and sizes; the sound of the
champagne-cork was heard in the land, and brilliantly dressed
ladies might be seen everywhere. Those huge elephants with
gold and scarlet howdahs, those camels with trappings of bright
colours, those black servants, that singular crowd of dusky
faces, and those broad-shouldered Sikhs with gold-striped tur-
bans, belonged to no English city. Where the Prince was to
sit long lines of native infantry were drawn up to keep the
ground, and there the native horsemen, preparing for the con-
test, were also in full view. I remember how varied were the
feelings with which I waited by the arena at Baroda to see the
fights between wild beasts. There was all the curiosity
which belonged to ignorance. One wondered what a rhinoceros
contest would be like — after what fashion elephants would
struggle ; but withal there was a strong sense of the brutal
which would crop up every moment and spoil all interest in the
sport. But here was a sight which could be regarded with un-
mixed satisfaction ; the swordsmen of India were to be pitted
against the Hussars of England, the Lances of the Punjab
against the best horsemen from home. Then too, there were to
be races afoot, high jumps and low jumps, tournaments with
blunted spears, and many another diversion. Oddly enough, a
band of European strollers, their faces bedaubed with lamp-
black, theii' heads covered with woolly wigs, in their hands the
familiar banjo, concertina, and bones, and on the backs of their
neeks the old, old hats, which we used to look at with amaze-
ment when very young indeed, appeared close to the Prince's

FEATS OF SKILL AND STBBNGTH. 259

dais, and favoured his Boyal Highness with a version of " I'm
off to Charlestown," from a Christy's Minstrel melody book.
The effect was almost too ridiculous for anybody to request
them to go to Charlestown at onca They sang their song in a
villainous fashion, held out their shabby hats for money, and
forthwith departed to frighten elephants, camels, and horses
with their discordant shouts.

The National Anthem sounded the arrival of the Prince, and
immediately afberwards the bands — ^there was plenty of them —
struck up a more lively tune, and the competitors entered the
lists. The first champion, a broad>shouldered Sikh, wore a blue
puggaree round his head, and a blue linen coat. On the head
of the lance he carried was a huge piece of cork or indiarubber,
and on his breast shone many a medal; the star, with the
magic words, "For Valour,'' glittering on his dress; at the
sight of him many a caitiff rebel had fled ; his lance had in days
not very long gone by been couched at stubborn foes, and had
overthrown them. To meet him there came another no mean
antagonist, a burly Punjabee, with his puggaree curled round
his head in military fashion, with a red end turned over the
front. He, too, led by the gallant Nicholson, had used his
lance against Sepoy foemen. No child's play was the thrust of
his arm when his blood was up. The spectator looked on with
some awe. Both warriors were well matched,. and it was a
great question who should win. The chargers of the^opponents
were pawing the ground waiting for the signal. At last it was
given, and each dashed against the other. Thud ! Thud ! but
to no purpose ; the shock has effected nothing, for the horsemen
have wheeled round. Once more they rush, and again without
success, though you and I, and less marvellous horsemen, would
have been hurled out of the enclosure. No fear is there that
their lances will shiver; as well might you expect to see a
Muniporee's polo stick break. They clash and then chaige
again, they strike each other on the backs as they wh/jel round,

260 n^^^^ ^^^ PJRINCB I// INDIA.

they plunge tbeir lanoes iiito each other's stomachs, but all to
no purpose, till after some minutes the Sikh contrives' to get
upon the flank of his antagonist. Only for a minute, but what
a minute is that I Out goes his arm, in goes the f^>ear. His
opponent receives the head in his ribs, his horse staggers, rocks,
and the rider falls to the ground, as the lance is pressed home
by that terrible Sikh. Cossack, or Uhlan, would that you oould
hear the crash of that falling man.

Nor was the scene less exciting in another part of the arena.
Those who have not seen tent-pegging as practised in India may
like to know what the work for the competitors was. Driven
into the ground so as to remain about six inches above the sur-
face was a genuine tent-peg — ^hardwood, nothing more or less
than the piece of hard fibre which is used to fasten the canvas
down. To stand by it and strike it with one of the ponderous
lances which our cavalry, Indian and English, carry, is no easy
task. Tou might try a hundred times and not thrust it through.
But what will you say to a man who could ride at a full gallop
three hundred yards, and, while his horse rushed past it, almost
like a flash of lightning, could pick up the piece of wood on the end
of his spear 1 Yet this was the task set, and how it was fulfilled
you shall see. A signal being given, an English cavalryman
burst from a group at the distance named, and rushed up the
course. I noticed that he did not keep his lance's head near
the ground ; that, indeed he held the head up, but lowered his
own face somewhat^ so as to see the little white mark the more
readily. All depended upon his being able to strike at the pre-
cise moment when he should reach the miniature target set up
for him ; there was no jugglery, no trick ; all depended upon a
quick eye, a cool nerve, and a strong and ready arm. Onward
he flew with lightning-like rapidity, not diminishing his pace
one whit till he reached the peg, when, with a dexterous turn
of the wrist, he struck the wood in the centre and carried it off
triumphantly. Less successful was his rival who followed, or

FEATS OF SKILL AND STBENGTB. 261

the one who came after that, the man of the llth Hussars re-
maiDing/dcile princeps till three or four had gone, when another
achieved a like distinction, and was loudly applauded. Two or
three more came very near it, and then it was the turn of native
horsemen. At a given signal a rider in blue turban and dress
came flying towards us, his lance held rather more slanting than
those of the English, and a little more loosely. He rode easily^
however, with his eye fixed on the peg, and, jusfc as he came up
to it, sent his spear clean through the middle, and bore the
trophy away. Another peg was fixed, and another horseman
rode at it. But this time the fates were not propitious ; he
struck the groimd a foot from the little mark, and was nearly
jerked out of the saddle ; another and another came on, but
some went a little too high and others a little too low, three
only of the party succeeding in carrying off the peg. And now
came the deciding heat, for each horseman was to have two
trials, and the conqueror was yet to appear. This time three
Englishmen in succession struck the mark, one of whom won
the prize. Of the natives there were none who struck the peg
twice ; each did so once in the two trials without difficulty, but
none were equal to the hussar, and so the prize fell to the
Englishman, and the Sikhs and Punjabees acknowleged the
justice of the award with a loud cheer.

Jumping over a bar was the amusement which followed this
achievement, being duly rewarded by a prize of some value,
and this occupied the attention of the spectators till the ar-
rangements for the next trial of skill, as distinguished from
force, were completed. Then the horsemen who had been upon
the course left it, the jumping ceased, the perspiring competitors
retired, and made way for other men. What had been done
in the interval was simply this. Three sticks, duly prepared,
had been driven into the ground, and on the top of these three
little limes, none of them larger than a respectable pigeon's
eggf had been placed. At a distance of three or four hundred
yards a body of swordsmen had been collected^i and these, nativo

262 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

and English, now waited to try their skilL No mean trial
was that to which thej were invited. It was simply this —
to ride four hundred yards at a gallop, sword in hand, and to
cut the three limes in halves as they passed the sticks with a
sword. The first man was a trooper of the 11th Hussars ; his
name was Jones. He carried the ordinary cavalry sabre of the
service. As he came on I noticed that he leaned very much
OD. the right stirrup, with his head lower than the pommel of
his saddle. His swoi*d-arm was free, and the weapon loosely
held. As he came by the first lemon fell in halves^ the second
was clipped of its rind, and the third was cut in the middle
with a powerful blow that showed Mr. Jones to be one of the
keenest swordsmen living. Three such strokes in less than
seventy yards were not easy to deliver. Then there came
another hussar of the same regiment, carrying a native sword,
curved but sharp. To him the first and second lemon fell, but
the third was untouched as he galloped by. A third English-
man came and missed all three, overthrowing, however, two
of the stands as he swept on. Then a fourth rode up, and
rivalled the feat of Mr. Jones, cutting all three lemons with
the ease of a man who was aiming at a world rather than at
such a^tiny nlark. In this way the trial of skill proceeded ;
three more Englishmen achieved the fBat, but the rest had less
success. Then came the native swordsmen, dashing along at a
furious rate one after another. They, too, were very success-
ful, four of them, as against five Englishmen, clipping the limes
in half. A neater feat of horsemanship could not be imagined ;
Cossacks of the Don would have shuddered to see these Sikh
horsemen dash along the plain. The second trial ended no
better for the natives ; the English carried off the prize, and
even Punjabees and Sikhs shouted applause, so great was the
feat these soldiei*s achieved. Kaces on foot came next, in which
the Englishmen won laurels again with ease , and then the
entertainment ended, the trials of strength and skill were overi
the Prince went away, and tiie company dispersed*

CHAPTER XXVL

JUHMOO THE MAGNIFICENT.

At Jummoo the farthest point of our journey was reached.
The trip cuhninated in the frontier town of Cashmere, and, as
was befitting, the Prince found his most splendid reception
there. It was early in the morning that a party specially in-
vited by the Maharajah of Cashmere as his guests started from
Lahore by rail to Wazirabad, the last railway station in the
North of India. We did not pass over the land where Porus
fought and Alexander conquered, with unseemly haste. Six
hours were consumed in a journey of some fifty miles. We
had plenty of time to meditate upon the ups and downs of
political fortunes, to gaze at Runjeet Sing's famous burial place,
where thirteen faithful wives shared the tomb with their lord,
and at the grave known best for its four towering minarets and
its splendid wall. Save for its historic recollections, the country
could scarcely be styled interesting. A constant succession of
plains and ditches without monuments of any kind is not calcu-
lated to create enthusiasm, and until Wazirabad was nearly
reached, and the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas came in
view, something very akin to monotony was observable. But
this was not to last. The poetiy of motion which a " dak
gharry," or Indian stage-coach, engenders was in store for us,
and very soon we were seated in two of the funniest burlesques
upon vehicles that can be conceived. How we went over
hedgerows and ditches, plunged into cart-ruts, and very nearly
turned over; how we passed the last British outposts, took
short cuts over ploughed fields, and at last arrived in sight of
JummoOy needs not to be described. It was at the moment of

264 TVITB: TBB TMNCB IJf INDIA.

sunset when the town was seen. Behind it were the ever-
lasting hills, on one, indeed, of which it is seated. All round
was dense jungle. For hours the sky had been beclouded ; we
had not seen a br^ht ray all the afternoon, till at this moment
the sun burst out and lit up the landscape with its marvellous
light. Pink, orange, dark purple fell upon the snow-capped
lidge, threw the three-peaked Tri-couta into bold relief, glittered
upon the dome and minarets, the golden spires and white stone
buildings of Jummoo, lightened the dark green of the jungle,
and then left us in gloom. After this we entered the thicket,
passed by devious ways from the altitude we had reached
namely, a thousand feet, to the bed of the river Tow, where a
surprise not altogether pleasant awaited us. By the light of
the stars, now shining pretty clearly, we could just discern the
sluggish stream at our feet. Upon a hill on the opposite side
twinkled the lights of Jummoo. Our means of conveyance
were elephants, which waited on their knees for us to mount
and ride. It may be prejudice, it may be ignorance, but if
asked for a positive opinion, I should not travel for choice on
the back of an elephant at night time where the rivers have to
be forded and the hills ascended. A Member of Parliament
who was one of the party, finding that the howdah which he
was invited to ascend was not fastened so rigidly as to abso-
lutely warrant security against a fall, implored some other
means of transit, and was eventually conveyed to Jummoo in
a palanquin, which was borne on the shoulders of four men
across an exceedingly rickety bridge of boats. The rest of us,
however, mounted and started for the water. Down a steep
bank, the elephant cautiously feeling his way, at one time deep
in the mud, and the next in the water, with the elephant's
head, huge as the animal was, only just clear, and its great
trunk lifted high in the air, our progress was not very rapid.
Occasionally the elephants would stand still as though unde-
cided which way to go ; then an advance of half-a*do2en strides

JUMMOO TEE MAQNIFICBNT. 265

would be iitken, and another standstill arrived at. SluggisI} as
was the stream^ it was very wide, and it seemed as though the
opposite shore would never be reached. At length, however,
we stood on dry ground, and prepared to ascend the hill. Our
way lay through roads not more than six feet wide, through
passages crammed with horses, camels, and men. Up steep
staircases, whereon the elephants' feet slipped, and from which
a fall would have been extremely inconvenient j and so through
the narrow gate of the city, where the streets were thronged
and Pandemonium reigned. Still there was no time to stop,
for the howdahs shook violently, and threatened to turn round
every moment. Some of us urged our way to the palace of the
Maharajah, where tents were provided and a welcome rest was
found. I am particular in thus detailing the peculiarities of
the way to Jummoo, as it was over this ground that the Prince
ef Wales had to travel on the following day.

Day had scarcely broken, the light had hardly struggled over
the mountains, when such a drumming and trumpeting as
could only be heard in an Easftem city roused everybody from
sleep. Every Cashmere regiment — ^and the city was full of
troops — ^was in motion, every band was playing what it liked
best And when it is noted that scarcely any two instruments
were in tune with each other, that some hundreds of musicians
were doing their best, and that at least thirty different airs
were being performed at once, some idea may be formed of the
din and the clatter. Meanwhile, the Maharajah and his son,
each mounted on a beautiful Arab, attended by all kinds of
horsemen, and surrounded by scores of runners on foot, entered
the city to inspect the preparations. More troops, too, filed in
at the gateways, thousands of workmen prepared the roads,
gave the finishing touches to a grand palace which his Highness
has especially erected in honour of the Prince, while the police
went round and shut up the shops, clouted the recalcitrant,
overturned the money tables, and bid everybody be merrjr.

17

266 WITM THE PEINOB IN INDIA.

As a consequence Jommoo decked itself out in its very best,
gave its finest shawls to its inhabitants, displayed a wonderful
collection of flags, and received the soldiers with all demonsta-a-
tions of joy. The visitors from Leh, specially brought hither
to aid in the^^^e, were invited to lend the energy of their arms
and the noise of their tom-toms to the general rejoicing. And
if anybody was not inclined to be merry, he went where the
eye of the inspector and the staff of the policemen could not
reach him. As for the troops, they poured in til], with shoulder
dose to shoulder, they lined all the way from the river to the
Prince's tent on both sides, a distance of nearly three miles,
and there stood, the great shakos and heavy muskets weighing
down their diminutive forms very nearly to the ground. At
very short intervals their bands were placed in position, rocket-
guns were in the street by scores, the artillery of the Maharajah
was posted inside the gates of the city and the gates of the
palace, and the populace filled \ip the picture. This was ready
at twelve o'clock ; but the Prince did not arrive till five.

Down at the river-side a very extraordinary scene presented
itself. To have an idea of the locale take any one of the wider
reaches of the Rhine, trebling the width of the river and the
hills on either side. Hound the natural amphitheati*e thus
obtained bring the highest mountains of the Alps, with their
snow-capped tops. There would, of course, be no vines, but in
place of these tiny trees substitute a dense jungle. Then fix on
one of the nearest hills behind the river a city of white and red
stone, plentifully decorated with palaces and temples, towers
and golden minarets. A palace not unlike Windsor Castle, at
one point of a precipice, would then suf&ce to represent Jum-
moo very nearly. Othei*wise, ride along the banks of the Tow,
at the moment when the last rays of the sun are gilding the
peaks of the Pier-punjal range. Then we are transported back
centuries upon centuries. Nothing that meets the eye has any-
thing to do with the age in which we were living a minute or

JUMMOO THE MAGNIFICENT. 267

two ago; the West has altogether disai^[)eared ; we are lost to
civilisation; only the East, with its barbaric splendour, is
before us. I cannot call to mind any such other spectacle.
A like sight may haye been witnessed in the old days, and now,
as then, there are in the procession which stands on the bank
Persians with high Astrachan caps, long cloaks, gaiters, and
sandals. They certainly have a kind of blunderbuss on their
shotdders, but from the huge bell mouth of the weapon no more
effective missile could be sent than those which the followers of
Darius and Porus used to hurl. Then, too, there are men-at-
arms here — no counterfeit specimens, but real men in armour,
with little brass caps something like inverted tea saucers with
a spike in the centre, on their heads, chain mail covering their
ears and necks, brass breastplates, brass backplates parCiculaiiy
thick — ^brass guards for the elbows and arms — gloves of brass,
and brass protections for the ribs, hips, knees, and ankles. In
their hands are long javelins, at their sides curved swords,
called tulwars, while from their waistbelts hang pistols of the
good old pattern prized in the days when such things were first
invented. They surely have no part or lot in the nineteenth
century. Nor is a party of men who wear turbans, and, ap-
parently, carry any weapon they like best, more modernised.
Away with the drill which makes machines and destroys inde-
pendence ! Here are some warlike gentlemen who are allowed
to make themselves look as fierce as they choose. But their
parti-coloured petticoats, their boots, their blankets, their spears,
their shields, and their tulwars all belong to his Highness the
Maharajah, whose emissaries they are. And the two golden
banners round which they swarm are his escutcheons. Perhaps
I was wrong in saying there is nothing modem. A body of
cavalry in front of all have certainly got helmets which closely
border upon the headdress of the French Cent-Gardes. But
that is all. Lose sight of the casque for a moment, and glance
at the bodies and nether extremities of these warriors. The

268 WITE THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

present is forgotten at once; the past r^nains. The most
gentle object in view is the elephant which stands close beside
yon and jingles every minute or two ihe great bells which hang
at his aide. Yet even he has his pectdiarities, as you discover
when he reaches out his trunk towards the neck of your terrified
horse, and after you hear in more detailed fashion of the ease and
grace with which he has captured and killed no less than thirteen
human beings during his stay at Jummoo. There are plenty of
his brethren here. Thirty, in fact, are on this bank of the river,
all highly decorated and painted in approved style, while across
the river, well within sight, are nearly two score more, two with
grand worked gold and silver howdahs, fit, as indeed they are
intended, for the Prince and Maharajah. They are regal
elephants, these ; on their backs and tails the painter's skill has
been recklessly lavished ; their foreheads and trunks are master-
pieces of pictCMrial art, and on their trunks are the fctces c^ gods
and goddesses portrayed with endless care. Even their ears are
not forgotten. On the wide-spreading flaps are drawings of
lions leaping upon fishes or whales encountering tigers, while
on their aides are Eoyal coats of arms and pictures of the l^iree
feathers. Perhaps with a very strong glass glimpses might be
caught of a troop of English Lancers — ^the 9th — who wait the
coming of tiie Prince as he will emerge from the jungle, but
this is only momentarily ; they are lost immediately afterwards
in the crowd of black horsemen who sweep along the bank and
envelope the tiny company.

A gun from a distant hill just now wakes the echoes, and
immediately afterwards a stir on the opposite bank of the river
announces the arrival of the Prince. Salute after salute is
fired; the Persians shotdder .their blunderbusses with more
pride than ever ; the men-at-arms stand closer together ; yonder
horsemen in helmets sit straight in their huge Easfcem
saddles; the crowd of chieftains who have descended fr(»n
Jummoo, and whose horses have brought them down to the

JUMMOO THE MAGNIFICENT. 269

river's edge— a bediamonded, begilded^ silk bedecked crew — ^form
into column four deep; the tom-toms beat faster than ever;
the pipes are blown more vigorously than before ; while a tall
Asiatic horseman gallops over the little bridge of boats which
partly connects the opposite shores^ then plunges into the
water, and so up the banks to where the soldiers are waiting,
and bids them prepare for the Maharajah Sahib and the Prince
Sahib. No need to tell them — they have all prepared, their
eyes twinkle with pride and curiosity, for are they not the
bravest of the brave, and is not the sight they are to witness
the grandest in the world) Just now the elephants on the
other side are seen to kneel one after another, as they then re-
ceive their riders, and as they turn to descend into the river the
horsemen of the Maharajah, headed by the 9th Lancers, gallop
across to the shore we stand on. Very slowly the Prince's
elephant places one foot after another in the water, so carefully
that the howdah scarcely sways at all, as with measured tread it
feels its way through the bed of the river. Following close be-
hind comes the elephant of the Maharajah ; then those carrying .
the Prince's suite, together with Major Henderson, the former
Resident, and Colonel Jenkins, who, during the temporary
absence of the Major with the Prince, fulfilled the duties of
Besident, and fulfilled them well. Preceded by the motley
soldiers, the Royal procession wends its way round tho side of
the hill on which Jummoo stands, now passing by the edge of
a precipice and now going between the jungle, till at last it
comes to the foot of the last ascent before the gate of the city is
reached. But what a climb it is ! Scarcely less steep than the
staircase of an ordinary London dwelling-house. Indeed, it
would be impossible for us to ride up it were it not that it has
been cut into wide stairs, and paved with rough boulders —
boulders, by the way, upon which the feet of horses slip horribly,
to the constant peril of riders. However, up these steps must
tthe procession go — elephants^ horses, footmeni and alL Night,

270 WITH THE FRINCB IN INDIA.

too, is coming on—has caught us in. As we pass between the
long lines of soldiers who are armed with flintlock muskets,
thej stand dose shoulder, to shoulder and salute as we go by*
Nothing more funny was ever heard than the way in which the
National Anthem is played by musicians of all descriptions,
jklaced at intervals of about two hundred yards all along the
line of route. They have probably never attempted 4t before
they were ordered to rehearse for to-day. They play with
energy, at least, though to our ears the result is appalling.
But at the instant when our thoughts run in this wise, they are
turned sharply in another direction j for suddenly the city above
and the hedgerows around break out into a blaze of flame as
thousands of torches, lamps, and fires are kindled simultane-
ously. No wonder the horses fly among the terror-stricken
soldiery, no wonder the elephants execute a fandango on the
steep staircase. Yet, somehow or other, although several are
thrown from their seats, we all get up and pass through the
narrow gate of the city, where we are received by a salvo of
artillery from brass guns not twenty yards distant. The artil-
lery and scores of bands massed near the gateway have been
too much for the procession, and the conspirators are struggling
to get away from the elephants and horses. On we go ; the
Lama priests are true to their post on the top of the house, and
fully maintain their ancient reputation as noise-makers as the
Prince passes by; the healthy, broad-chested, strong-urmed
gentlemen of Leh, who never wash, are also in fine form, and
play with all their reputed vigour. They are easy victors ov«
a brass band opposite — the street is just twelve feet wide—
which is trying " God save the Queen " in a newly-discovered
key. The horses are clearly of this opinion ; for they rush from
the musicians of Leh into the very arms of the bandsmen of
Cashmere. However, we stay not : our path lies between more
bands, more soldiers in extraordinary costumes, more crowds of
delighted people who gather in the shop-fronts and on the top0

JUMMOO THE MAGNIFICENT. 271

of the low houses, and gibber with unqualified pleasure at the
unearthly din. And so we come to the foot of another ascent
which leads to the new palace which the Maharajah has built
for the Prince. Again we are received with artillery, clatter,
and shouts, aided also by bouquets of rockets, which seem to
shoot up at our very feet, and thus enter the camp, where, 'mid
tent pegs, ropes, pitfalls, and obstacles of yarious kinds, we find
oar way to appointed places, and dismount. The Prince is con-
ducted to his apartments by the Maharajah, and time is given
to prepare for the State dinner of the evening.

CHAPTEE XXVIL

8P0BT IK OASHMERB.

. To be a sportsman in Cashmere, as in Spain, yon must not
be burdened with sensitive feelings. You will not enjoy the
programme if you are a prominent and conscientious member
of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Still
* you must go as a dutiful guest to see the entertainments your
host provides for you, although the sight may not be in
accordance with your tastes. Leaving, then, the refinement of-
humanity behind you, let us mount our ponies to be off in
the direction of the rendezvous for sport this afternoon. You
are promised polo playing, gymnastic games, and feats of skill,
to which you cannot, by any possibility, object. In addition to
these there is something much more delightful to the Cashmere
mind ; there are to be hunts by wild animals in the presence
of the Maharajah. Once across the river, an hour's gallop
brings us to our destination. The Prince, who has been hunt-
ing all day, and, by the way, has succeeded in killing some
game, is expected shortly, so in the meanwhile you have an
opportunity of examining the ground and those who are on it.
At one side is a raised dais, with a refreshment tent for the
Boyal party; on the right of this are some camels and elephants,
and, squatted on the ground, a number of semi-nude black men
from the valley across the river. At present these are not
worth much attention, as other groups deserve more. There
are, for instance, some scores of persons with hawks, kites, and
falcons on theii* arms, some hooded, some npt, but all anxious
for flight. A little in the rear of these are some black fellows
who have charge of two cheetahs like those we saw at Baroda,

SFOET IN CASHMERE. 273

and two or three great lynxes, apparently very furious beasts.
Sadder by far is a group of three beautiful deer, one buck and
two does, two or three hares, and a couple of jackals, who lie
close to* each other on the ground, their feet tied, and their
tongues hanging out of their mouths, possibly for want of water;
perhaps owing to fear. Then, further on still, almost exactly
in front of the raised dais, are some hundred and fifty men
and boys — Baltis, from over the hills, side by side with their
ponies. They are here to do battle to day in presence of the
H^ir Apparent, and you naturally expect great things. Polo
players in England will be interested in learning that these
mountaineers have a very different kind of stick from that used
either by the Munniporees or the players at Hurlingham, namely,
a club-like weapon curved at the end, and very much heavier
than those in use elsewhere. As for the ponies, they have no
guards of leather, and indeed are not very good animals either.
However, as these people have come five hundred miles over the
Himalayas to show their method of playing polo to the Prince,
you are not disposed to be too critical as yet, but wait in expecta-
tion of some wonderful work. Maj or-General Biddulph explains,
too, that the gentlemen who are here to-day, clad in gorgeous silks
of every coniceivable colour — that is to say, half of them, the rest
having no clothing to speak of at all — ^have till lately been a
sad trouble to peaceably disposed folk. They only now behave
themselves because they are va^als of the Maharajah ; and
yonder sturdy little chieftain, who is trying hard to bend his
disagreeable features into a pleasant cast while an ai*tist sketches
him, was long renowned as a sort of Cashmere Robin Hood,
whose followers were more wily than honest, and whose merry
men were the terror of travellers. However, at such a time as
this, when the Prince is stepping upon the dais, we must let
bygones be bygones, although there are at least a score of the
savages glaring at the English strangers as though they would
heartily ei\joy a few minuteft' cutting and hacking witli the

274 WITH THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

curved tulwars they grasp in their nervous hands. But their
comrades in silk are mounting the ponies, and they, as well as
we, are quickly absorbed in the interest of the game. A^^^"^^
ing to the centre of the open space before the Prince, these polo
players make a low bow to his Royal Highness, whereupon
some musicians with trumpets quite two yards long, also some
sinewy tom-tom players, squat on the ground and commence an
awful din. More astonishing still is the noise which the multi-
tude who have no silk, but only rags, indulge in. No sooner
do the ponies and their riders move toward one end of the
ground than every savage howls or whistles to. the utmost of his
power. Then a sudden lull takes place ; the ball is hurled into
the air and sent whirling along the plain, while the horsemen
go after it helterHskelter, whereupon trumpeters, tom-tom play-
ers, and howlers make more noise. So it is every time the
players pass by — a blast proceeds from the trumpets, a thunder
of sound from the tom-toms, and a vocal accompaniment from
their admirers of no tmcertain note. They are clearly delighted
beyond measure to see their countrymen so gallantly attired
moving before the Prince, and they could make the most hide-
ous roaring for many hours if allowed. Somehow or other,
those engaged in the game achieve nothing y they miss the ball
continually, they tumble off their horses, they do not compete
with opposing sides — ^four Munniporee players would beat
twenty of them with ease. At last the Prince sends to ask if
they cannot form into two parties of say five each, and try the
regular game, to which, after much discussion, they agree. But
it is all to no pui^ose, and very soon they are requested to
disappear and make room for better men. They go, and the
athletes in the comer take their places. The chief points about
these gentlemen appear to be that they were almost naked, very
greasy, and capable of almost any grotesque movement that
suggested itself. Two would meet with a rush, and each plac-
ing his head between the other's 1^ would forthwith turn a

8F0MT IN CA8HMBMB. 275

series of spinning wheels, malring us wonder whether they were
really human beings. Then they wotild throw all kinds of
Bomersaxdts while clasped in couples, fly over each other's heads,
and generally impersonate the dusky goblins with whom we
were made familiar in our very early days. But their chief ex-
cellence consisted in the amazing distances they coiild bound.
Fixing a rough spring-board in the ground, they would run and
jump twelve or fifteen feet into the air and alight without the
slightest shock. Presently a couple of camels were brought up,
whereupon one savage after another ran and threw somersaults
over the camels, humps and all, coming down on the other side
as lightly as a feather. Then an elephant of the largest size
was placed in position for a similar purpose, and at the first
attempt a man bounded comfortably into the howdah on the
top of the animal's back. Biit the success was only momentary,
for the huge creature lifted up his trunk, trumpeted with
all his might, and then ran away, utterly declining to come near
that spring-board any more. Another large elephant was pro-
cured, but with similar results. Every time the athlete took a
run the sagacious animal would turn round and hold out his
trunk in a threatening manner, blinking his little eyes and
snorting in so defiant a fashion, that, after some vain attempts
at blindfolding him, the experiment was given up, and way was
made for less manly sports.

I have already described to you cheetah-hunting as practised
iT) Baroda. It is not an economical way of chasing deer, and I
do not know that it is a very refined class of sport. But it is
very seldom the cheetah succeeds in catching his prey ; so that
the spectacle of a savage beast tearing the neck of a handsome
deer is not often afforded. The Maharajah of Cashmere was,
however, quite determined that there should be no lack of
amusement in that direction, and the way he managed it was
this. The spectators, including the athletes and the Baltius,
were requested to foim a wide-spreading cirolei embracingi

Z7Q WITH THE PBINCE W INDIA.

perhaps, two acres of ground. Of horsemen, ladies, officers,
gentlemen, and natives, there were sufficient to do so ; and, all
being now in readiness, the deer which we saw lying' on the
ground an hour before were carried by their legs to the centre
of the ground, and deposited there. Similarly, though with the
greatest possible care, a cheetah was brought up to the dais,
patted, caressed by its keepers, and admired by the visitors.
At length one of the deer, a splendid black buck, was released
and urged to run. Poor beast, his numbed limbs and dazed
eyes scarcely admitted of a great deal of motion, and it was
really some time before he could understand what was required
of him. But when at last the struggling cheetah was held near
him, he did comprehend that he was expected to do something,
and accordingly began a slow trot towards the left-hand side of
the dius. He might, perhaps, have gone about two hundred
yards when the leopard was let slip, and there is little doubt
he would have been caught at once but for the timely inter-
position of a little dog, which at that particular moment got in
the way. Now, I believe a cheetah likes dog-flesh as much as
venison, especially when there is less trouble in getting the
former than the latter, and the unlucky puppy was chased with-
out loss of time. But it was all to no purpose : the terrier was
too smart for the heavier brute, and after a little running in a
circle the pursuer gave up the attempt. All this while the
wretched buck had been looking for some loophole to escape.
He might as well have tried to fly to the clouds. And as ill-
luck would have it, at that very moment when the cheetah had
crouched down in the grass, chagrined at losing the dog, the
buck, endeavouring still to find an opening in the crowd, came
within a yard of him. Then the fierce creature sprang up and
was after him. Round they went, the one striving for life, the
other for blood. In terror the deer ran to the side of the circle,
hoping perhaps to leap it and get away, but without effect.
Slowly* the cheetah came up with his prey, although the buck,

8T0BT IN CASHMERE. 277

now frantic "with fright, skirted the little circle inside the crowd
with wonderful celerity, till at last the leopard succeeded in
springing upon the hindquarters, entwining its forelegs round
its Victim's loins. Then followed the most sickening scene
I have ever witnessed. The Prince and his suite, though
they loved sport, murmured with vexation ad the gasping
terrified dee? struggled and groaned so loudly that its pitiful
cries might be heard by everyone present. Slowly the cheetah
climbed on its back, though at one moment there was some
hope that the beautiful creature would escape ; for the former,
somehow or other, failed to fasten its faugs in the buck's neck
at first, and the two rolled on the ground together. T will
do the crowd — ^that semi-fashionable, semisavage crowd —
the justice to say that I believe if the buck had got clear this
time they would have opened to let it pass. But this fit of
mercy came too late. The strength of the deer was failing
fast — another plunge, another roll, another loud groan and
cry, and then the end came. The cheetah's teeth pierced the
neck of the overpowered buck, there was a tearing noise,
a final struggle, and then the bloodthirsty beast was seen suck-
ing away the life of its motionless victim. It may be said that
at one point, namely, on the extreme, left of the dais, there was
an open passage through which the deer might have passed, and
perhaps did go at first ; but behind this there was a strong line
of beaters, and the fact that the buck was driven back into the
drcle is sufficient proof of its inability to escape. The next
amusement was the production of some lynxes and a jackal.
This did not end satisfactorily, according to Cashmere ideas.
The first lynx, on being let loose, absolutely fraternised with
what isdiould have been its prey, by rubbing its nose against
that of the jackal, afterwards quietly trotting back again to its
keeper; and, by the time that the second lynx was let loose,
the jackal having found an opening in the crowd, made pur-
posely, I fancy, by some of those who did not care for the spec-

278 f^ITH THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

tade of death, trotted off too, thinking, probaUy, that there
was really nothing of interest to wait for. This was somewhat
diBconitiging, and so a plump hare was held forthwith to the
noses of the lynxes, and then untied and set free. But the
little animal also got away, for the lynxes were anything .but
hungry, and as sport seemed to be on the wane^ a couple of
fiedoons were sent in pursuit, which, after several swoops, suc-
ceeded in killing him. It was an open plain, there was no
cover very near, and the terrible birds soon disposed of their
chase. This ended the *' fun.'' The guests and the Maharajah
entered their carriages, and we galloped in the rear towards
Jummoo the magnificent.

It must not be supposed that there was a lack of objects of
rational interest in Jummoo. On the contrary, the capital of
Cashmere is perhaps more deserving of a visit than any other
place the Royal party has been to, not even excepting Kandy
or Benares. We were altogether in a new world, to which the
habits and customs of Europeans had not extended. We saw
the Asiatic in his own home, untrammelled by the laws of
more modernised races. In fact, a party of those attached to
his Boyal Highness, discovered, in the course of a short morn-
ing's tour, some of the strangest religious curiosities of Asia.
Our principal object in setting out was to wiiaiess the Lamas or
Thibetan Buddhist priests. The yellow-robed ecclesiastics of
Kandy had told us when in Ceylon that the Thibetan fraternity
differed only from them in the colour of the dress they wore.
We were desirous of judging for ourselves, and our obser-
vations led to the following conclusions : that in almost eveiy
particular the Ceylon and Asiatic Buddhists differ essentially ;
that while the former wear yellow robes and wash frequently,
the latter seldom or never divest themselves of their dingy red
habits, and certainly do not use water at all. One amiable old
gentleman, whose grimy face, long matted hair, excessively
objectionable cap and cloak, told their own tale, owned that he

SPOBT IN CA8HMBBB. 279

had never taken off his gown since first he adopted it, now
many years ago. " Why should he %^ he asked of an interro-
gator. Whereupon somebody suggested that a plunge in the
Tow at the foot of the hill might be advisable. To which the
holy man replied by a simple, artless smile, which indicated
doubt and imwillingness combined. The priests of the South
performed their devotions almost silently, those of the North
made as much noise as possible. There was no idol on the
Buddhist altar in Ceylon, certainly no objectionabl^pictures
were there, and I did not remark any oblation beyond a quan-
tity of flowers and some coin of the realm. But in the North
there were idols in plenty. There was also a work of art, to
say the least, out of harmony with English tastes, and certainly
with our ideas of sacred propriety, and there was " food for the
gods " enough to feed all the religious men who sat round the
altar. The whole business, too, was different. Our first inter-
view with the Lamas was a |^mewhat curious one. Guided by
the sound of brass instruments, cymbals, clappers, tom-toms,
and whistles, we climbed up the side of a dilapidated house by
means of some old boarding, and so reached the roof, where,
seated in a tent open at the end, were ten burly priests pro-
ceeding with their devotions. The picture referred to hung
opposite the entrance ; and before it were piles of sweetmeats,
brass cups full of oil, corn, grain, and flour, an idol^ an inde-
scribable instrument on a stand, a lighted lamp, and some pieces
of gold cloth. Squatted on their haunches, these ten gentlemen
were singing and playing, one amongst them having the words
of the song before him and leading the melody. How dreadful
the din was which they made I cannot describe ; until you have
heard the Lamas sing you can have no idea of their powers.
To one a most important task was committed — ^the turning of
the praying-wheel, an apparatus unknown to the Cingalese —
and the way in which he whirled round the rattling machine
showed him to be a great adept in the sacred art

280 WITH THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

Passing from the midst of these devotional people, we went
on to the chief Hindoo temple of Jummoo, just at the moment
when the doors were being opened for the faithfuL An attempt
to enter was at first yigoronsly opposed by some Fakeers, who
harried np with their dismal countenances, and insisted on our
taking our boots off. To this we objected, and as a result we
were followed by a hostile crowd to the doorway, over which
we did not attempt to pass, for the whole temple was visible
from the entrance. The principal idol was Vishnu, who was
bedecked with a golden robe and wore a Pope's mitre. On his
right hand was a goddess wearing a mitre also, while on his left
sat another female divinity, who had apparently not risen to
the dignity of a head-dress, and was, in consequence, obliged to
do without one. There was nothing of importance to see
beyond this, so we went away, and as we did so a very cont-
entious person took a bowl of water, and sprinkling the steps
on which we had stood, washed ayay the defilement which the
stone had contracted from our infidel feet. The next evening
the Lamas danced before the Prince, and the Hindoo priests
passed his Hoyal Highness in procession. Space forbids my
attempting to describe the State dinner, at which the Prince
presided — ^the Maharajah, as a good Hindoo, studiously keeping
out of sight — or of the i^autch dance which followed. Nor can
I give md^ than passing mention of the fact that, after two
days' stay at Jummoo, his Royal Highness departed in similar
fashion to that in which he arrived, and on his way back to the
North-west breakfasted with the English officers at Sealkote,
opened a bridge at Wuzirabad, driving in with some ceremony
a silver rivet with a golden hammer ; attended a native /Sie at
Lahore, and the next day paid a visit to Umritzur and its
golden temple.

CHAPTEE XXVIIL
aebab's capital.

The Prince was well received in the city of Agra. It is
worth narrating how the descendants of the Mussulmans and
the sons of Timour the Tartar met the Shahazada^ and after
what fashion they saluted him.

The records of distant ages are dim. Little is known of the
gentlemen who one after another ruled this favoured spot.
Not that we are wholly ignorant of their eccentricities and
playfulness. Pleasant stories^ conserved in marble^ tell their
own tale of amusements and pastimes in which a Henry the
Eighth would have revelled!* But what was their manner in
regard to the more solemn acts of life, history fails to narrate.
I mean by solemn acts the reception of some friendly monarch,
some neighbouring king. Yet I do not refer exactly to the
actual durbars, the presents, the pleasant words of welcome,
but to what occurred before the potential visitors arrived.
Take, for instance, the reception of All Merdan by Shah Jehan.
Did the Monarch of Akberabad issue fresh regulations every
twenty-four hours for a fortnight before the great Persian
arrived ? Did he sit on his peacock throne in the palace and
rehearse the smiles and the bows he intended to make ) Did
he make the elephants learn their parts, and have the camels
put through their facings) I think he must have done some-
thing of the sort, for at Agra there was a love of rehearsal
which cannot be foimd anywhere else, and it must have
descended from somebody or other.

Having witnessed the preparations for the Prince all over
the peninsula, I can say with some certainty that nothing like

18

282 WITH THE PBINOS IN INDIA.

the arrangements at Agra were witnessed elsewhere. At Bom-
bay, Colombo, Madras, and Calcutta they discussed and
diverged, issued edicts and cancelled them, set up arches and
pulled them down again, gave orders and rescinded ihem, and
yery generally worried i^emselveB and everybody else to the
verge of insanity; but that was alL I do not believe the
priests of the Temple at Kandy had a fidl dress rehearsal with
the exhibition of Buddha's tooth ; the gentleman who read the
address at Madras had got it all off by heart; but I am sure
that the managers of the Bankapore entertainment w&ce not
clear as to what would be done. Even at Lahore thei^ was a
pleasant uncertainty up to the last moment, and, indeed, even
then ; but at Agra nothing of the sort existed. All had been
arranged to work like a clock. For a week before the Prince
arrived everybody had been placed in full review ordw. The
soldiers had lined the roads, their bands had taken up tiieir
positions, the gharry drivers had been thrust into fidds and
out-of-the-way places, and the public had been hustled and
pushed, penned up, and belaboured with all the energy incident
to an actual festival. The elephants had been marshalled out-
side the railway station gates ; their drivers had kicked and
yelled, and beaten the animals, just as it was desirable they
should do when the grand day came ; the trees of the gardens
of the Taj had been partially illuminated ; even to the ball, a
battalion of Sepoys had been despatched " to see how six hun-
dred people would look," as an official explained. The only-
thing which appears to have been left out of the rehearsal pro
gramme was an experimental supper. And all this was easily
achieved in a happy community in which everybody knows his-
place, where a colonel would not dream of offering his arm to a
general's wife, where the exact posidon of a commissioner at
table is defined, where assistant magistrates are held to be the
exact equals of captains, and settlement officers are looked down
upon by district judges. The only thing to be taken for granted

AKBAR8 CAPITAL. 288

was that everybody who knew hiB place and his w(»rk did
aooording to his lights, and thus, of oouisOi Agra must ^^receiye"
like clockwork.

At length, however, the expected day amved^ and the city
went oat to meet the Queen's son. The hour of entry was fixed
for four o'clock in the afternoon ; everybody was in position by
one. And lest^ after all, somebody should have l<»rgotten his
lesson, the parts were all rehearsed again. The el^hants —
there were nearly a hundred of i^em — ^were placed in line,
formed into column, and then marched back again. The Sepoys
were brought to their places, and drilled on the spot with un-
relenting energy. The Bengal Cavalry passed and repassed
over the ^^und till the faces of the riders were recognized by
the crowd, and the people in their starchy gowns and their big
turbans were ^'regulated" for three hours without any regard
for exhaustion cm the part of their active preceptors.

There was one thing, however, which refused to be bound
down by tibe programme, and, accordingly, sadly bothered
the manager of the entertainment. We were all, as I
have said, in our places; the polio^ had. got every wheel
of the dty mechanism into working order; the native music*
ians, <m nativenmade platf<»rms of extraordinary description,
w^re tom-toming to their hearts' content, in accordance with
rules laid down, when— whew !-^» whirlwind sprang up and
nearly choked us all. It came over the arid plains by the
riverside, over the dry sandy bed of the river itself, down the
roads and through the gardens, stirring up the dust in great
clouds, and plunging it into our very midst, till no one could
see across the road, and even the gentleman who had to read
the address was nearly choked. It was all to no avail that
the police waved their staves, and the inspectors galloped about.
The wind would not be stilL It whirled the surface of the
jdain into the streets and into the station itself; it snatched
away uflihrellajii and tore down avoiings; it hid afficeis Sxom

284 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA.

their meiii and the public from the constables ; and it kept up
this merry game with the officiab of Agra till the Prince had
entered and reached his destination.

I have mentioned native music-stands. They were certainly,
till the dust-storm came, well worth looking at. Haye you ever
taken part in a wedding festival in the North-West f If so,
you will remember that, as aids to the splendour of the proces-
sion, figures of ladies and gentlemen, of great artistic beauty,
are often borne alofb. It is not in the exact similitude to nature
that the charms of these images lie. On the contrary, it is
generally the practice to portray humanity not as it is, but as
the Hindoo artist thinks it should be. Consequently there is
that pleasing divergence from sameness which we call variety
— a result exceedingly pleasant to the native mind. What
matters it indeed if a gentleman is represented with four arms
instead of two 1 Why should we always be bound down to one
nose or one head I There was a really admirable lady dressed
in silver, and presumably stuffed with straw, whose head had
four mouthsi eight eyes, four noses, and two very fine ears.
She was placed at one* end of a decorated platform, whilst at
the other a gentleman wearing a red elephant's trunk kept
watch and ward. Between them were squatted all the friends
and acquaintances of a wealthy Hindoo, all ci them waiting
to welcome the Princa They had brought with them musicians
also, celebrated players upon the cymbals and bones, noted
performers on the tom-tom and reed whistle, some friends who
knew how to blow great brass horns, and a couple of dancing
ladies, who jumped about to the sound of the music as long as
they could. Nor were they at all alone in their glory ; there
were, indeed, ever so many of these musical stands along the
line of route. Happy were we to whose ears i^e sound of the
sackbut and lute never reached ; happy we who could see the
energetic gentlemen with the cymbals, but could not hear them.
Happier still, however, were the owners of the stands them-

AKBARS CAPITAL. 285

selves as they sa^, with clasped hands and radiant faces^ in the
very centre of all the din, proud of themselves, proud of their
friends, but prouder still of the noise they were making.

But this was not the only special feature of the reception.
The arrangement of the Europeans was very picturesque. Tri-
bunes rising from the ground tier above tier were apportioned to
the visitors who had flocked into Agra, and ladies in bright
dresses, and gentlemen in brilliant uniforms, fllled the' seats in
anticipation of events. All was, indeed, arranged for an exceed-
ingly pretty spectacle, when the wind rose, and the dust came
on. The elephants were splendidly painted and caparisoned ;
thirty Eajahs and chieftains were in their gold and silver
howdahs at the station; there were retainers with the very
funniest headgear, and some with no headgear at all; there
were soldiers who carried matchlocks and warriors who clutched
javelins and pistols ; the bands were re^^dy ; the address was
there — ^when the whirlwind came on. And so it chanced that,
after all, the reception at Agra lost much of its beauty. Let
it not be supposed that we saw nothing ; on the contrary,
between the dust clouds we caught a good view occasionally of
Lord Charles Beresford's elephant behaving contumeliously, of
the Prince holding to the howdah with one hand and bowing
with the other, of Lord Aylesford and Lord Alfred Paget
abreast on gigantic animals, and a crowd of Bajahs in the rear.
But who could enjoy the scene ) We had just flxed our binocu-
lars for a good gaze at the features and dress of the youthful
Rajah of Dholepore when a blast of wind obscured him from
view, and the next potentate we saw was the Eajah of Chickari
or the Jaghidar of Alipuia, of the existence of whom we were
to that moment profoundly ignorant. But vexation was all to
no purpose. The wind cared not a jot for the rage of specta-
tors or the mortification of the simple-minded ones who wished
to be seen in the procession ; and we were glad at last to take
shelter in our carriages, and drive away home as fast as fright-

286 ^f^TH THE PSINOS IN INDIA.

ened horses, bad driyers, an uncertain road, and coming dark-
ness woald allow. Besides whidi, there was an entertainment
in the «f«ning, to which the police '^ invited '^ early attendance,
and henoe our exerdBo.

CHAPTEE XXIX

A TOMB AND A TOWEB.

It is, after all, very qnestionable whether even a comet
obtains a satisfactory view of the universe. Its journey is
extended, but it is too rapid ; there is too much to be seen for a
flying inspection to suffice. Perhaps the Prince thought this
as he quitted Agra, for he determined on visiting the Taj
Mehal twice, and the second time by moonlight.

In an Indian clime, at this season of the year, there was no
need to consult the weather. Clouds may be left entirely out
of consideration ; if the moon was there we were sure to see it.
She was visible when we arrived at Agra — a fine full one, too
— flighting up the landscape with a brilliancy of which you in
England, and even the dwellers at Home, know nothing. Per-
chance it may have occurred to you in time gone by to roam
inside the Coliseum when the moon's rays broke through the
ruins and lit up the place with a ghastly glare. The seleno-
graph imprinted on your memory at such time may still appear
to^you the most beautiful picture you ever saw. But those
Boman beams had, after all, to penetrate through the mists of
the Roman marshes, and, though unknown, parted with some
of their finest raye^ as they swept the damp air away. The
moon at Agra had no such trouble. Unimpeded by watery
particles, it shot through the clear, crisp, atmosphere a flood of
such brilliant light, that the marble of the Taj became ethereal-
ised, and to the wondering spectator looked as though it would
suddenly rise up and fly off. It was a singular sight to look
through the grim red sandstone gateway and watch the Royal
party as it filed along the marble terrace-walk which leads to

288 WITH THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

this marvellous tomb. Fountains were playing; the music
from a band situated nobody seemed to know where^ but not
far off, echoed and re-echoed against Taj and mosque ; the great
C3rpre6S trees cast their dark shadows over the pathway, and
yandycked it with sharply-defined forms, and the perfume of
innumerable flowers filled the air — ^it was an entry into fairy-
land. No oil-lamps disfigured the trees, no limelight blinded
the vision ; the Taj stood unomamented in its own wonderM
grandeur, just in front of those who were fortunate enough
to visit it. As we approached, a glow of heat was felt by
everybody. The hot sun playing upon the white marble all day
had left it still palpably warm to the touch, and even now at
midnight the air was warm with the unexhausted caloric. This
was, however, no drawback ; for, though the days are sultry,
the nights are piercingly cold, and the genial temperature was
rather to be courted than avoided. Still it would not do to
stand constantly close to the building.

To see the Taj you must go to each of the four comers of the
great marble platform on which it stands, and note its huge
spandrils in bold relief, the jewelled arches as they are illumined
by the moon, its wondrous dome and grand minarets. Indeed,
it is necessary to go up on those very minarets in order that the
full beauty of this architectural gem may the better be seen,
that its rich landscape setting may be fully appreciated, that
the slow-flowing Jumna close by may take its part in the
picture, and that the sleeping city of Agra, its fort and its
temples, may also have their place.

To me it was a source of much gratification that I had spent
some hours in the daytime inspecting the grandest of all build-
ings in the world, and that after that nothing could mar the
memory of its great beauty. A great white marble tomb, built
after the similitude of a Turkish mosque, its walls inlaid with
precious stones, its front inscribed in Arabic, with the praises
of the great woman in whose memory it was written, its huge

A TOMB AND A TOWEB. 289

white dome glistening in the bright sun, the tombs below and
the false tombstones above, the resting-places of Shah Jehan
and his lovely wife— such was the picture I saw. Nothing on
earth equals it. The spandrils may not be in proportion. I
believe a Scotsman who visited it at the same time I did proved
successfully to another Scotsman that one of the arches was a
> quarter of an inch too high and another a quarter of an inch too

^^- ^ mi.wr, I am aware that gentlemen whose knowledge of Eastern
architecture is as small as the knowledge of critics usually is
have given at least eight satisfactory reasons why the Taj must
not be considered perfection ; but I do not care a bit. I love
tjie marvellous screenwork cut from white marble, which, with
its eight sides, encloses the two tombs. To me the resting place
of the Eirst Napoleon in the Invalides seemed the isferest
pretence at magnificence when I had looked for a moment into
the dim vaults below ground ; and when I was led to the top of
one of the minarets, and gazed down upon the work of the
great Shah Jehan, thought of the millions of money expended
in its completion, of the thousands of workmen who toiled here
for years, of the sightless crew which issued from yonder gates
when the top stone had been added, and the decree which went
forth that not one of the workmen might ever see again, lest
some other potentate, jealous and envious, might essay to build
a structure as handsome in some foreign land — I felt that here
was a spectacle for the Prince worthy the fatigues and trials of
I his whole journey. One fact was very satisfactory — the Joneses,

Browns, and Robinsons had not been allowed to write their
names or carve their initials on the tombs. They did, in days
gone by, chip out the precious stones when nobody was watch-
ing; but now they cannot do even that, and are obliged to
leave the building without recording their visit in any way.
Peace, disappointed scribblers ! it is one of the few places your
vagrant pencil has not desecrated.
I do not think there was much talking that night as we

290 W^TTflr THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

paaied from point to point, and looked again and again at the
wondrona building which the Shah Jehan erected. Hearts
were too full <^ admiration to admit oi frivolity or careless
thought; we were gazing upon a scene the like of which we had
never witnessed before. One idea seemed common — that to
enjoy a trip to India the Taj at Agra should be the last plaee
seen. Else with what comfort can you look afterwards upon
the inferior resting-places of Akbar, Adum ELhan, Suftur Jung^
or even Humayon's tomb) To you, as an exacting aad
scrupulous arohseologist, the sepulchre of the Great Mcgui at
Secundra may afford many delights ; the purity of ks ardiitee-
ture will pLeaae your eye and help you to pcnnt many an hi»-
tCRical and perhaps useful moral, as a patriotic Englkhnmn.
Again, the grave <^ Humayon may have pleasant memories, in
so far as it was the place where the mutiny received its final
blow, i^e spot where the scheming, traitorous old King oi Delhi
was led away into captivity, and where his three wicked sons
were led out to execution by the gallant Hodson. But after
you have once seen the Taj, the grandest marble domes, the
prettiest Motee Musjid in India — and what a number of these
pearl mosques there are ! — sinks into insignificance. Tou re-
gretfully turn back to the Taj, and its beauty overtops them

alL

There is another structure of great grandeur, but it is wholly
dissimilar from the gem of Agra. It likewise received a part-
ing visit, though not by moonlight.

Not a score of miles from Delhi stands a high tower, the top
of which may be seen from any part of a circle of many leagues.
Who built it and why it was constructed no one can telL Yet
it is claimed with equal force by both Hindoo and Mussulman^
who both have some dozens of reasons to show that to their
ancestors belongs the honour of having erected the highest pillar
in the world. I do not, however, propose to solve the doubt,
the only matter of importance to such as were invited to visit

A TOMB AND A TOWER. 291

the Eookib being that it belongs just now to the English, and
is an exceedingly pleasant retreat as well as a great architec-
tural marvdL It was eady in the day when, in well-appointed
carriages, we found oursdves passing through the Delhi gate,
and so along the road which goes by the tombs of Humayon
and Sufbor Jting. How the magnificence and squalor of the
East intermingled, how pariah dogs and old women howled ioc
food under the very shadow of marble domes, curiously inlaid
and sculptured walls ; how mud huts surrmuided these master-
pieces of art, and gilded minarets alternated with the poorest
of lE^iraw thatches, need scarcely be toldL A ooui^e of hours
brought us into the gardens of the Kootub, under the shade of
the trees which environ it, and the tent which had been erected
for the refreshment of such as had been specially favoured.

' It was not without some satisfaction that we learned our
proximity to the very centre of the world. There could be no
doubt at all about it, for a large number of the very holiest
men to be found in this part oi India, whose word could not by
any possibility be doubted, consulted their most trustworthy
oracles ever so many years ago, and placed the matter at once
beyond a question. In those days there lived the Kajah of
Prithie, who, being somewhat anxious to remain King of Delhi
as long as possible, and leave the throne in the family of which
he was at once the head and principal ornament, called round
him the most pious Brahmins whose acquaintance he had had
the honour to make. I do not know what form the fite to
which he invited them took; but from what I have seen of
holy men of late I should infer that a feast was at least one
part of the entertainment, and that the exhibition of some of
the coin of the realm was another. Any way, they appear to
have been satisfied, for, on his presently asking them what he
had better do to obtain a permanent seat on the somewhat shaky
thnme, they at once put him into possession of a most valuable
secret. Just under the piece of ground on which they were

292 WITH THB PBINOB IN INDIA.

sitting was the head of the serpent which supported the world ;
there could be no mistake about it ; they knew it for certain ;
and if the itajah of Prithie would only make a long iron pillar
and drive it into the earth in such a way as^to transfix the
head af that recondite snake, he would reign forever and a day,
and his children after him. How he made the pillar, how
they had another great feast, how the iron was driven into the
ground and actually caught the serpent exactly in the very
centre of his head and transfixed him, may easily be im-
agined. The only regrettable circumstance is that the Kajah
was not satisfied when the Brahmins told him all was right.
He wanted to make sure for himself, and would by no means
be convinced by those pious men — ^in fact, he was determined
to have personal evidence that the snake was caught. So, like
another misguided gentleman who killed the goose that laid the
golden eggs, he pulled the pillar up when, to his astonishment,
the end was found to be covered with blood ; proof positive that
the Brahmins had been right after all But, although he had
put the iron in the right place at first, it by no means followed
that even a Eaji^ could catch the serpent twice. Thus it
happened that, the next time, the animal got away ; and, sad
to relate, the Bajah of Prithie very shortly afterwards was up-
set by an enemy, and lost not only his throne, but his eyes,
ears, and head into the bargain. Still, a venerable old gentle-
man, who was making a chupatty close by, informed me that
there is no doubt the pillar extends many hundred feet into the
earth, and is within an inch or 90 of the centre after alL I
did not think it necessary to tell him that General Cunningham
some years bored the ground close by it, and found the end of
the pillar was only fourteen feet below the surface— he would
have disbelieved me, and worshipped it all the same. What
was infinitely more unpleasant to him was my refusal to con-
tribute to the support of the shrine of which he was the presid*
ing genius.

A TOMB AND A TOWER. 293

Not far distant from the tower is a wonderful well, and thither
we were taken. Constructed in the shape of a tank, about 30
feet square, and about 120 feet deep, this well contains generally
about 40 feet of water. For drinking purposes the spring is^
doubtless, valuable ; but it is much more beloved by the natives
for a very different reason. To jump from the top down into the
dark pool 80 feet below would apparently be certain death ; at
any rate, on looking down into the tank you would not easily be-
lieve that the spring could be made with the slightest chance of
safety. Yet the Hindoos of the village close by step up, and
offer to make the attempt for a very small present. Indeed,
before you can say yes or no, a dozen men and boys have
stripped off all save the smallest possible waistcloth, and are
standing on the edge of the well ready to jump. A moment
later, and an aged savage has taken the leap. For the first fifty
feet his arms are extended wide and his legs are far apart, but
just then he clasps his ankles together, brings his hands close
to his sides, and, striking the water, with a fearful crash, dis-
appears. It is but for an instant, however ; out of the inky
depths comes that old grey head, and you see the man is swim-
ming towards the wall, and that he intends to climb up the
side of the tank to a hole about twelve feet above him, through
which he can creep into an adjoining reservoir, and so come to
earth again. He is scaling the wall, when a little lad of some
ten years makes the fearful spring. For a moment, you shudder
involuntarily; for the little waif of humanity has, to all ap-
pearance, jumped out too far, and is in danger of striking some
stonework. But no I he misses the rocky points by about a
yard, his little hands and feet close together just as did those
of his pvedecessor, and he falls like a pebble into the water.
Will he come up again 1 You wait nearly two minutes, and no
little face is^ seen. Can he be drowned 1 you anxiously ask.
Is it possible that no effort will be made to save himi You
turn round and look eagerly for a swimmer to jump in and rescue

294 ^^^S THE PMNCE IN INDIA.

the child if possible, when at your elbow stands the naked,
grinning little imp, his head and body dripping with moisture. It
seems that under the surface of the water a trapdoor c^^nmuni-
eating with the reservoir in similar fashion to that t>7 which
the old man climbed out is found, and that by this the boy has
escaped from the well ; the silence of the men at the top being
only another trick to arouse the sympathy of the white sahibs.
After this they jump in one after another as rapidly as possible,
almost falling in pell-mell on the top of each other, as though
the eighty-feet spring were the merest bagatelle. Bound they
come through the trap-doors to earth again, dripping, steam-
ing^ shouting, and so down into the well again ; but we have
had enough of it. Little did the beneficent constructor of that
tank think what use it would be turned to five hundred years
later on. Fresh clean water, indeed i To what better purpose
can it be turned than as a means of getting money from sight-
seeing travellers 1

Still, the Kootub itself was, after all, the object of our
visit, and thither we bent our steps very soon afterwards. To
reach the tower it was necessary to go through a Oity of the
Dead, a great space covered with tombs, which were erected
many hundred years ago, and have now fallen into decay. It
was easy to see how beautiful was this Mohammedan cemetery
when Akbar reigned at Delhi, and the nobles of the land were
buried one after another under the marble domes which are now
crumbling to dust. Then the trees, of which one now only finds
thethick,leaflessstumps, were young saplings; the broken ground
wascovered with flowers ; the fountains, of whichonly the remains
are left, played with full vigour; and what is now a desert blos-
somed as the rose. Those days are gone, and in place of the dead
Mohammedan, scores of squalid Hindoos and pariah dogs inhabit
the tombs, crouching for belter from the sun in the summer, and
the rains in the wet season, behind the ruined walls, and only
emerging to beg of the stranger aa be passes by« I do not

A TOMB AND A TOWER 295

know wiiich were &e more objecticmable, the dogs or the peoples-
all were so utterly loathsome and imclean. Periiaps the a-Tiimalg
were, after all, most bemrable, for with a stick or stone we could
frighten them away. But not so the pestilent crowd of human
beings, who followed dose upon our heels, now exhibiting sores
and dd<n:mitiee, sightless eyes and useless limbs, and now cursing
OS for our want of appreciation and sympathy. I am afraid that
some of them ultimately got encouragement from some of the
younger travellers, who forgot that, so long as this degraded
tribe can obtain alms, they will refuse to work for a livelihood.

At length, the foot of the Kootub was reached, a tall circular
column nearly twice the height of the Campanile at Venice, and
quite as Wge round as that square pillar which all the travelled
Browns, Eobinsons, and Smiths know so well, and which bears
their honoured names wherever the space to write a word could
be found. Indeed it was impossible to forget Venice all the
while we were at Delhi or Agra. How could we forget, for
Instance;^ that famous Bridge of Sighs and the dark passages
below where the old nobles passed on their way to streingulation
and worse, when, following a torch-bearer, we explored the
foundations of Akbar'a Palace, and saw the well in which he
drowned his troublesome wives, and the dark cells into which
assassins entered in the dead of. the night and perpetrated
nameless cruelties upon innocent men and women ? Was it not
about the same time, too, when that wicked old Council of Ten
sent despairing victims through the dismal secret door which
the panels hid so nicely, that Akbar was disposing of his
enemies in those dark passages of Agral Akbar — Doges, S^
are gone ; but the monuments of their genius and the memory
of their crimes live after them, and show that the civilization of
Venice and the barbarity of India were not very dissimilar,
after all.

As for the Kootub, it was impossible to ascend its 375 steep
steps without being amazed at the untiring energy which must

296 WITH TEE PRINCE IN INDIA.

have been employed in a work so tremendous. It does not
reach to the heavens, as did the Tower of Babel ; yet it is
twenty times as high as another pile, which was intended to be
a rival, and was actually begun some few yards distant froi^ it
Just as no one knows who raised the great pillar of sandstone
up which we dimb, so no one can tell who began the rival work
which ended so disastrously. But the two remain ; the grand
column, with its six storeis, its ornamented galleries, its count-
less inscriptions, its wonderful sculpture, and, close by, the
ruined abortive attempt at building, overgrown with moss and
rank weeds — ^the one a model of perseverance, the other a monu-
ment of unsuccessful ambition. But there is little time for
moralising, the steps have to be climbed, till at last we stand on
the little platform at the top, scarcely eigi..t feet in diameter, and
look down upon the country below Then what a panorama
bursts into view I The City of the Dead is at your feet, the
city of the living, teeming, crowded Delhi, only fifteen or twenty
miles away ; the tomb of Humayon apparently so close that you
imagine it would not be very difficult to throw a stone on to its
marble dome; the burying-place of Adum Khan, where his
widow placed his remains after he had been twice thrown from
Delhi battlements by the order of the Emperor ; and farther
away still, the camping ground of that gallant army which held
the Bidge in those famous fights when Delhi was in the hands
of rebels, and the fate of English rule in India hung in the
balance. How full of food for historic thought was every inch
of that remarkable landscape I

I

CHAPTER XXX.

VATIYB COURTS AND PRISONS.

I did not find that the Prince of Wales visited a court of
justice during his stay in India. His Hojsl Highness conse-
quently missed a spectacle which is so pui*ely Indian in its
^ characteristics^ that a description of the way in which wrong
is set right and right is maintained in the country districts of
the Empire should be given. I do not refer to the higher
courts, over which Chief Justices or Judges preside. There the
terror to evil-doers is pretty much the same sort of person he
is at home, sits in a robe, and if he does not wear a wig has at
least bands round the neck, and the look of a lawyer stamped
on his face. But in the small towns and villages this is scarcely
the case.

Justice here is administered by collectors, magistrates, joint
magistrates, and assistant magistrates — a goodly array of young
gentlemen whose knowledge of jurisprudence is mainly derived
from the occasional perusal of a kind of law catechism which is
supplied by the Central Qovemment. This is by no means
their fault; they come out to the country as civil servants,
after passing a somewhat stiff examination in most of the sub-
jects with which they will not be required to deal. They are
not barristers, they know nothing of English law ; but to some
extent they are made acquainted with the rudiments of Indian
practice ; they have a slight — ^very slight — ^knowledge of Hin-
dostanee, and thus equipped they are sent into the various dis-
tricts to fulfil the somewhat varied duties of revenue officers and
magistrates. At certain periods of the year they travel from
village to village to try cases, collect taxeS;^ measure land, mak^

I?

298 WITH THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

reports, and generally look after the tract of country through
which they pass. Many of them are very young, say between
twenty-one and twenty-six years of age ; most of them entertain
the profoundest contempt for the natives, and all of them are
endowed with powers such as a Bow-street magistrate of a
dozen years' standing would never be allowed to use. What
would Sir Thomas Henry say to a youth of twenty-two being
allowed to order a man twenty lashes and two years' imprison-*
ment) Theoretically, these sentences are all subject to re-
vision : they are always recorded in a book, with a short reason
appended. But in the course of four months' careful enquiry,
I could only discover four instances in which the sentences had
been revised by the collectors, and in one of these cases the
punishment was increased. Very often an appeal to the High
Ck)urts, however, puts a stop to injustice ; and it is in setting
right the vagaries of these youthful administrators of law that
the centres of justice are mainly engaged. That there are great
difficulties to be contended against, no one can deny. The im-
possibility of placing faith in what native prosecutor or wit-
nesses on either side may say, the certainty that more or less
perjury is mixed up in every statement, and the knowledge that
any amount of evidence on either side can be obtained for a few
annas, places the magistrates frequently in a great dilemma,
and this may possibly account for some of the mistakes that are
made.

I will take you into a court of the ordinary kind, where a
typical case is to be tried. It is a large, square room, very
plain, very bare of furniture; Its only ornaments are a table,
at which a very youthful magistrate sits, and two forms, one at
his side, the other in front of him. At the door is a crowd of
chattering, noisy natives, who are arranging what is to be done
in the case about to be heard. Inside the room there are two
native policemen, three moonshees, or native scribes, seated dose
to the magistrate, and in th^ centre of the room l^ miserable-

NATIVE COURTS AND PBI80N8. 299

looking lad of the barber caste, waiting for judgment. The
Daniel at the' table eyes him sternly for a moment, whereupon
the barber-prisoner clasps his hands in the attitude of petition,
and assumes the nearest approach to penitent submission which
he can call up in his inexpressibly ugly face. His offence is a
curious one: he has nearly cut off a woman's nose — the police
say he is mad, and ought to be locked up, and here he is for
examination. If the truth were really told, it is probable that
the statement of the lady who prosecutes would be aa follows :
"I am unhappily burdened with excessively large eyebrows — at
least so my friends and my own judgment tell me. There is
not much in my appearance to recommend me; my clothes are
ragged and dirty; my face is by no means pretty; but these are
things over which I have no control With my eyebrows the
case is different — I can get them trimmed for a few cowrie-
shells if a very low-caste barber is applied to, and hence I
employed Motia. Our agreement waa, however, unfortunately,
not successful — he did not trim my eyebrows satisfactorily. I
refused to pay him; and he then attempted to cut my nose off.
I think he is a little mad — ^he certainly is very violent.'' All
this would be rendered in the native language, were the prose-
cutrix inclined to tell the truth. To an uninstructed mind
there would appear no reason why she should fail to do so ; to
those who know India, however, there is a very great reason
indeed. That lady in rags has, curiously enough, all the objec-
tion in the world to anybody knowing she has her eyebrows
trimmed. Were she a Mohammedan she would not mind a
bit ; were the barber a high-caste Hindoo, she would be less
squeamish. As it is, she will not admit for a moment that she
sent fof Motia to improve her personal appearance. She must
tell quite a different story to that. So she borrows somebody
else's baby boy, a little urchin of some two summers, the crown
of whose head has been recently shaved in approved fashion,
and, carrying him in her arms, shuffles into the court Just

300 ^^^^ ^^B PRINCE IN INDIA.

before she arrives, the prisoner haa been making a statement
which somewhat tallies with the truth, saying that he was just
finishing the lady's left eyebrow when somebody jogged his
elbow and made him cut her nose. The police, at whose
instance the man has been brought up — ^for the prosecutrix is
quite opposed to the action — however, deny that he was jogged
at all, and declare that he is mad.

It now remains to hear the woman's story, and she begins as
follows : *• I am a poor woman, and have one little boy — ^this
one (holding up her neighbour's child). I saw that his head
ought to be shaved, so I sent for Motia and asked him to do it.
Motia is a very careless man, but a very good man indeed, very
good. Motia was not thinking of his work, I believe, for jui^t
when he ought to have been looking at the child he was looking
at me ; and when the boy moved Motia's hand slipped, and so
his razor cut my nose." '' Is that the truth I " says the magis-
ti*ate, though that is a needless formality, for the lady has pre-
viously promised, her right hand in the air the meanwhile,
that she will ''tell the truth according to righteousness and
nothing else." " Let me see your nose," continues the embodi-
ment of justice. The woman comes forward, uncovers her face,
and shows a gash which certainly no slip of the hand from such
a razor as Motia owns will account for. Yet what is to be done :
the woman, whose forehead has evidently been lately shaven,
denies that her eyebrows were touched, says quite indignantly
that she would not let Motia shave her face for any consider-
ation. Thereupon a native doctor is sent for, and is asked
whether he knows anything of the prisoner, " Yes, Sahib, I
have examined him," is the reply, for the doctor prides himself
on his English, " I find him very funny man ; he laughs very
much when he has no right to laugh ; sometimes he stare at
things you not stare at at all. I think he not got ajl the mind ;
he not violent, but strange." It is clear that the man cannot
be punished for laugliing when he ought not, or for not possess-

NATIVE COURTS AND PHISONS^ 301

ing " all the miiid.'* So more witnesses are called for, and they

come in one after another. Each tells a different story some

confirm the eyebrow shaving«tory, but say that the child jogged
Mbtia ; some swear to the tale that it was the child's head that
was being shaved, while one old lady, unfortunately, lets out
the secret that the body does not belong to the prosecutrix at
all. Not a single version of the case agrees ; the police reiterate
what they said at first ; the woman with the gashed nose con-
tradicts them flatly ; while the prisoner, staring at the wall,
and so confirming the doctor's remarks, waits calmly while the
opposing parties fight the matter out. At length the youthful
magistrate delivers a Solomon-like oration. He finds that
Motia cannot be sent to gaol because the chief sufferer will not
pursue him, he finds that he cannot punish the woman because
she is not legally before him, and he finds that the police have
made a muddle of the whole business — and all this he first of all
says and then writes down in the magisterial book before him.
The crowd of witnesses thereupon file out, and justice is satis-
fied.

Of course when at Agra the fiimous gaol under the care of
Dr. Tyler could not be missed. Consequently the Duke of
Sutherland, attended by a large party of the Prince's suite, paid
this abode of 2,500 criminals a visit on Thursday morning. I
was not so fortunate as to accompany them ; but an hour after-
wards I received a courteous invitation from Dr. Walker, the
Inspector-General of Gaols in the North- West Provinces, to
join him on a tour of inspection. A few minutes afterwards I
found myself in a comfortable wagonnette, and shortly after that
received by a guard of honour, composed of the company of
Sepoys whose business it is to guard the gaol. It is needless to
say that we were accompanied on our rounds by five soldiers.
The attempted murder of Dr. Tyler only two months ago
warrants every precaution, for the most desperate rufiGians in
India are confiin^ here for life, and they are not to be despised.

302 ff^ITH TEB FEINCB IN INDIA.

Once inside the prison walls, how fbrciblj we were reminded
that we were in an Eastern land] A beautiful garden, shaded
by the huge leaves of the plantain-tree, was before ns ; fruitfol
herbs were in plenty, and what in England would have been
a desert, blossomed as ihe rose. There was little to remind
us of the precincts of a prison. True, that here and there «
gentleman in heavy fetters tied up a lettuce or earthed up a
cauliflower. But you might see his fellow anywhere else in
Agra. It was truly a pleasant place, albeit the ante-room
to a dungeon. Our first introduction to the prisoners was
an entry into ihe department where small boys were ccm-
fined — some scores of little ignorant imps, who, squatting on
the ground, were just then engaged in eating their mid-day
meaL Their two hours' morning lesson over, they wes^
about to work at carpet making — an occupation at whidi, I
learn, they are great adepts. Passing by these we came to
the yards in which the female criminals were kept — ^young
women who had committed thefb, and old ladies whose ideas
of vagrancy were not consistent with those of the local
magistracy. In one section were those who had committed
heinous crimes, and were in prison for life. How squalid, how
wretched were the countenances of this unenviable company
can never be learnt by you at home I do not refer to the
dresses ; the ordinary gvej prison garb had little about it that
was repulsive. Nor do I allude to the modem badges whidi
each wore, attached to a chain passed round the neck, and held
up in obedience to command. But what a story did those fifty
faces tell 1 Tales of iiifanticide, under singularly revolting cir-
cumstances; of poisoned husbands and fathers; of murders both
by strategy and force. One aged matron, whose toothless gums
and sightless eyes told of approaching dissolution, had been there
ever since the year of grace 1837 — ^her crime was the murder
of her children and their father. Another, a very young
woman, had just entered upon her term for the destruction of a

NATIVE 00UBT8 AND FBIS0N8. 303

bi'other and father. There they sat^ some spinniiig wool^ some
nursing Uieir children — a helpless crew^ to whom hope never
oomes, before whom yonder barred gates would never open.

From such a spectacle we turned sick at heart, and were not
at all sorry when we entered the place where young men were
employed at mat-making — ^gaining what they never knew before,
an honest livelihood. Nor was the next ward less admirable, con-
taining the cooking ranges of the establishment, and bakery of
the gaol. A scene of animation followed, but of a lucrative and
satisfactory sort On a raised platform, at a pace of fully three
miles an hour, were forty-eight rapscallions turning round a
huge capstan. Two abreast they marched at quick step, not to
the sound of a band, as sailors do at sea, but to the time mark-
ed out by a warder, whose whip encouraged the tardy, and in-
vited them to activity. They were no useless servants, how-
ever ; on the contrary, the capstan they so rapidly moved gave
off four horse-power, which we found to be utilised in driving
wool-carding and spinning machinery, at which a number of
other prisoners worked. Kound went the wheel, the machines
moved merrily, and wool for all the looms in the prison was
being prepared. How much was needed may be guessed when
it is known that some scores of prisoners were employed in
making cloth for all parts of India, some with hand looms,
others with larger machines moved by hand and feet together
There were carpets, too, waiting for wool, curtains, tablecloths,
all kinds of things demanding more material. Well might the
forty-eight be encouraged ; theirs was no idle task.

But it must not be supposed that they were the only ones
employed in hard labour. Many scores were grinding flour
with the old-fashioned Eastern mills, pumping water, working
at printing presses, and cleaning the cells. Where, however,
more refined and more remunerative labour could be adopted,
it was given out ; and thus it was that we presently found our-
selves in a great factory for manufacturing what are known as

304 WITH THE FBINCB IN INDIA.

Persian carpets. To my surprise it was under the care of an
English convict, none oUier than Captain Lyat, who, only four
months ago, was convicted of forgery and sent to prison for two
years. Of hb case I say nothing ; but certainly his shop was in
wonderful order. His men were all at work, making money
for the Government, and, indeed, earning a good deal. Their
task for the day consisted of six inches of caipet two feet wide —
a carpet which, by the way, is sold for about £1 a square yard
when manufactured, and quite treble that sum in England. It
was here that we had the pleasure of seeing a Dacoit who for
many years had been the terror of the Northrwest Provinces,
and was now undergoing a sentence of seventeen years ; a
gentleman of most forbidding countenance, whose leg irons
testified to his irremediable badness. In this way we came to
cells where dangerous criminals were shut up ; the yard for
English convicts, now happily nearly empty; and so to the
gardens once more, having seen the finest prison in India, and
probably the best governed one in the world. Will it be
believed that the profit on materials supplied for prison labour
at Agra last year exceeded £ifiO0 1 There are few gaols in
England that could show such a balance-sheet

CHAPTER XXXL

4N BASTEBN PARIS.

In the record of Royal entries to Eastern cities the chronicler
has to be careful lest, by awarding the palm of superiority to
any one reception, he may find himself unable to give to the
next one its proper meed of praise. As the first place to re-
ceive the Prince of Wales, Bombay had certainly a great ad-
vantage ; the magnificent landscape of Ceylon lent undoubted
charm' to the festivities at Kandy ; the absence of all foolish
and needless etiquette at Calcutta rendered the Royal landing
on the banks of ^e Hooghly memorable ; at Delhi the grandest
military spectacle we had witnessed was presented, when the
Shahazada passed the Jumna Musjid in the sight of a score of
thousands of people , the Himalaycus of Cashmere, the broad
River Tow, the ascent to Jummoo on the hill, the barbaric
music and the strange Asiatic costumes marked the procession
in the far North as strikingly grand. We have again seen a
magnificent spectacle, and this time the locals is the Paris of
India — Jeypore.

I do not know who it was that gave to the city which Jey
Singh built this happy title. Comparatively few travellers
have visited it, for only lately a line has been laid hither
from Agra. It was fiur from the civilised world, the home
of an independent Prince, of whom almost as little was known
as of the Qrand Lama of Thibet. But times have altered ;
that modem civiliser, the t^way, has grasped Jeypore, brought
it within a ten hours* ride of the city of Akbar, and three days
ago the Prince of Walesa entered it with greater ease than
Qwalior or even Jummoo. And now no more appropriate name
could be given to the capital of the Mahangah than that of the

306 WJTE THE FBINCE IN INDIA.

Paris of India. They say that Jey Singh was an enlightened
man — that he was filled with an idea that even narrow streets
on the top of a mountain were not so healthy as wide thorough-
£ures on a plain, especially when that stands at an elevation of
fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea ; that large houses
well ventilated, and a good system of sewerage, were p^erable
to small houses, no drains, and plenty of cholera ; and that, see-
ing all iAna, he left his Hoyal Palace and built another. He
then invited his people to quit their mud hovels for the roomy
mansions which he erected, and without more ado constructed
such a city as is not to be met with elsewhere in the world.

Nor is this a mere phrase — ^a vague, exaggerated idea ; for
the main thoroughfares of Jeypore are 111 feet wide, and inter-
secting each other are .respectively two miles and forty yards,
and one mile and a quarteitlong. These again are crossed by a
third main street nearly two miles long, and thtis the city is
divided into six perfectly equal portions. Even in these the
streets are fifty-five feet wide ; and each house has a gavden,
each house a family tree. Nor must it be supposed that the
buildings are unworthy of the streets. Erected by one designer,
they are composed wholly of stone; and though the handsome
frontages vary, and the eye is thus relieved, one idea runs
through the whole. There is not a mud cottage — ^not one of
any kind within the walls which surround Jeypore. It is a
city of palaces, the fronts of which are artistically dyed pink
and white. Even on the smallest dwellings the same care has
been bestowed as upon the largest ; handsome flights of steps
run up to the minarets and domes, the flat roofs, and the upper
rooms of the buildings ; the parapets are artistically design^ ;
and it is as though a huge palace had been framed for the resi-
dence of a king.

A Royal residence there is bei^de, or rather in one part
of the city, but it scarcely exceeds in beauty the palaces in
which the people live. In its surroundings it is magnificent,

AN EASTERN PARIS. 307

but then all these — ^gardens, lakes, fountains^ and marble
walks — are open to the people. They may not own the
alligators which swarm on the water's edge, but they may see
and feed them, and what more can the monarch himself do 1
To them may not belong the fe^ simple of the orange groves
and paths overhung with Cyprus, myrtle, plantain, and palm,
but they may walk in them, and pluck the rich, juicy fruit;
the fountains and the marble walks may not be at their disposal,
but they are for their use; they inherit the pleasures of the
locality without any of its responsibilities. And if ever they are
inclined to be ungrateful and rebel they have only to look towards
the hills upon the ruined dungeons of old Ambair, to be reminded
of the days that are past and of the better times that are come.
I call it a new city, but that is not strictly correct. Will it be
believed by London vestrymen that it was in 1728 that Jey
Singh made Jeypore a handsomer spot than our metropolis of
to4ay, and that for a hundred and fifty years the city of Baj-
pootana has had wider thoroughfeires and better drainage,
prettier houses and larger gardens, than any rival in civilised
Europel

It was in such a scene as this, then, that the spectacle of
February the 4th was cast.

We take a carriage and drive through the streets while the
day is yet young and the period of the Prince's arrival some
hours distant. The houses on each side of the street are seldom
more than two stories high. The lower portions have mostly
open shop fronts, the upper are almost wholly composed of stone
lattice work. In the former the men of Jeypore are seated by
thousands ; in the latter the women of the city are assembled,
peering through the screen which hides them at the preparations
for the entry of the Prince. Here, as elsewhere in India, the
crowd is dressed in gay colours. Perhaps scarlet predominates,
but there are yellow, light green, Ught blue, light red. Any-
way, the people are attired in the brightest jX)stuuies. The

308 WITH THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

very arrangements of the streets aided to make tlie sight a
fltirring one. When in London we went to the procession, it
may be of a newly-reoovered Prince or a newly married Princess,
there were many things to be taken into consideration. It
might rain or snow, or a hundred things may militate against
a comfortable yiew. But in Jeypore there was no such trouble-
some thought. The Prince coidd only enter on an elephant ; the
bright, blue sky above forbade the suspicion of rain. So the na-
tives who wished to be spectators, and there were many thous-
ands of them, thronged the pathways, sat in the shop fronts, got
behind windows, perched themselves upon the roofs, and filled
the staircases, with the assurance that they would all have a
good view of the Maharajah's guest.

There were nine residents in Jeypore, however, who were
not allowed to witness the Eoyal entry, albeit that their
dwelling-place was not a hundred yards from the Prince's route.
Nine residents of Jeypore^ in cages, not so much because they
were wicked in the past as that they might possibly be trouUe-
some were they allowed to mingle at present with the crowd in
the streets. It was well they were so confined, for few more
savage than they were ever seen. I have in different parts of
the world visited zoological gardens, and wondered at the ani-
mals collected therein, but never did I see such fearful beasts as
were these nine. There was a tiger fully twelve feet long, which
had made twenty-five hearty meals off as many unoffending
men, women, and children. There was a tigress which, as often
as she saw Europeans, waxed furious and frantic, and endeav-
oured to tear down the slight cage in which she was pent up.
There was an old tiger whose powers and propensities were
such that even Jeyporeans had thought fit to vote him a double
set of bars, eating half a goat, and growling as though he would
leave it and spring into the street every moment. There was
a lank tiger which, it was said, could spring further than any
of its kind in the world — an acrobatic, athletic, wiiy beast,

AN SAST^RN PARIS. ^ 809

that once, some months ago, lept up into a tree, and took there-
from a thoughtless Shikaree, who imagined that at the height
of fifteen feet from the ground he was perfectly safe, and could
laugh any savage animal in the kingdom to scorn. And there
were three more, about each of which terrible tales were told
of ravaged villages, plundered flocks, and desperate struggles
before they were enticed into traps, and thence conveyed to the
Maharajah's cages. Two leopards, who appeared to have ar-
rived at the border of frenzy, completed the nine who alone in
Jeypore were not invited to bid the Prince welcome. All the
rest were there ; even the convicts, with their heavy leg irons,
were allowed a glance at the Eoyal guest — a, day of happiness
In a life of gloom.

But perhaps the most curious section of those who came to
cheer the august visitor were the members of a tribe with which
you in England are somewhat familiar, and everybody must
have heard of the Nagas, the unruly children of the hills in
Central India, the gentlemen against whom an expedition was
lately sent, and some of whose villages were very recently
burned. Well warned by that timely chastisement, and suitably
admonished as to the necessity of good behaviour, these reck-
less, wild men w^re invited to do honour to the Prince. Nor
was their duty merely the passive one of suffering the pro-
cession to go by without molestation. Their part was the
active one of adding to the glory of the entry in a more pro-
ncmnced manner than even their prototypes of Ceylon, the
Veddabs of the hills of that island.

Befeare, however, I tell you what they did, let me tell you
what they are like.

It wafl early in the afternoon when I visited their encamp-
ment for the purpose of making acquaintance with these singu-
lar creatures. My introduction was the flat of the Maharajah,
my protecticm the generosity of the people themselves. For,
though th^ will occasionally murder a European, as circum-

310 Jf^I^S THE PBINCE IN INDIA.

stances lately showed, they are generally friendly, and, unless
provoked, are fairly civil. I tliink that the exhibition of a lead
pencil which would make a palpable mark upon paper was the
magnet which attracted them into a circle — the rest was easy.
In a few minutes they were persuaded to form up into two lines
of about fifty apiece, and there stand while some of the party
were sketched. To be drawn — ^to appear in a picture— was to
them % new sensation. The only difficulty was to keep them
from settling the moot point as to who should be selected by an
immediate appeal to the arms they carried. Such a reference
would have been most inconvenient. Each had a curious kind
of blunderbuss, which, however, was by no means the most
important part of their equipment. The formidable sword they
earned was the principal weapon. Picture to yourself a blade
five feet long, the handle of which is a great steel arm-guard,
such as the knights in England wore as gauntlets in the "good
old days f give to that sword a flexibility compared with which
the Toledo blade is stiff and unbendable, aud sharpen it till it
equals the steel of Damascus, and you have the Naga's falchion.
Hand this to a fierce gentleman whose whiskers are mixed with
his turban, and meet in a knot at the top of his head, and
whose countenance is as objectionable as that of any Thuggee
or Dacoit in India. In his waistcloth place a dagger of for- ,
midable size, give him a shield of metal or hide, round his
naked legs put spangles and rings, on his feet a hard leather
shoe — and you have a Naga ready for anything. Or in place
of the dagger arm him with a spear fourteen feet long and a
pistol or two ; he can take his place in the ranks before ns.
To complete the party some would have to wear nothing but a
waistcloth, while to others might be given jackets of tiger-
skin, or singular coats, with great epaulettes and protections for
the back of the neck extending higher than the ears ; some, too
should have linen tied round their faces as though they had
toothache. Such were the gentlemen who came to take part in
the procession.

AN EASTERN PARIS. 811

Their work was a simple one. If they understand anything,
it is the use of the sword. It is their constant practice and
ajni;sement, and, in case of disputes, the approved way of
arranging the difficulty. Does one gentleman think that an-
other has unlawful aspirations for the possession of his wife 1
Then he invites him to take his weapon and his shield and
decide th6 question of ownership at once. There is no veto in
the way of such a proposition. The respective parties place
themselves in position, give a preliminary caper for the amuse-
ment of their friends, and then cut and thrust till one or the
other, or perhaps both, are run through. , They have, none of
the scruples as to shedding blood which beset the ordinary
Hindoo. They are, as a matter of fact, a kind of depraved
Buddhists. " We do not worship in a temple," one of them
said to me, " but we pray with a book to our god." The fact
that Buddha disapproved of fighting, however, never troubles
them ; they love their swords and like to use them.

like to use them, indeed ! At the very mention of such a
thing two stepped into the pathway and began a friendly com-
bat. One was an elderly warrior, with huge eyes and a yellow
face ; the other a stripling, who had painted most of his body
blue. With an exhilarating flourish, they struck each other's
shields and then began. Bound and round they went, now
rushing close to each other and stabbing, and now falling on
their knees and clashing their blades together with all their
might. Sometimes the points of their swords would go within
an inch or two of their faces ; sometimes it seemed as though
their optics would be picked out cleaner than by any vulture.
But no 1 not even a feather in the peacock's-tail plumes which
they wore in their turbans was injured ; they were both as safe
as a mongoose from a cobra's bite. And when, with great re-
luctance, they were persuaded to leave ofi*, two more went at it,
and clattered away as merrily as the others. Thus couple after
couple fought, like the knights in days of yore^ challenging each

812 W'JTH TEE FRINGE IN INDIA.

oiher to feats of dexterity — aometimes rolling in the dust^ some-
times chasing each other with every sign of fierceness^ now
imitating defeat and now victory.

At lengthy however, we persuaded them to stop. Bat their
entertainment was not yet finished^ and they were determined
we should see what they could do. So then there rushed for-
ward a savage, who carried a stick from which hung by iron
chains several wooden balls covered with spikes, and, without
more ado, he swtmg them round so close to my head that I
wished myself comfortably at home in an arm chair once more,
flinching would have been more serious still, so with great
effort I stood firmly while the spiked balls whirled round my
helmet and came past my face. I am told that gentleman can
send any one of the six balls within a quarter of an inch of any
given object. The whole business was most troublesome, as
those who wanted to " form a group " for the artist were legion
and all who were there were erratic and wilful-. At last when
everything appeared to be arranged, some jealous Naga, whose
face was not a fortune, and whose appearance was certainly not
prepossessing, proposed that they should dine; whereupon a
mutiny arose, which all our efforts to quell were unavailing. In
the end the great food question led them to rise in a body and
troop off to their tents ; and such were th^ gentlemen whose
special business it was " to fight the way of the Prince" into
Jeypore.

It was nearly dark ; the policemen, armed with great cud-
gels, had amused themselves for hours with thrashing the
populace first from one position to another, and then back
again ; the thousands in the shop-windows, behind the lattice-
work, and on the roofs, had chewed as much betel-nut as the
vendors with baskets could produce for the occasion ; and the
few Europeans who were in Jeypore had taken up their position
on the tox> of the Medical Hall, opposite the palace gates, when
a bouquet of rockets and a din of tom-toms announced that the

AN EASTERN PARIS. 313

Maharajah was going forth to meet the Prince. A moment
later, and his Highness sallied forth on horseback, preceded by
a small body of the Nagas, who ran in front of him for a little
way, fencing and capering in most approved fashion. They
stopped when they came to a huge tower which stands in front
of the city, and about whose builder a curious story is told.
Jey Singh, it is said, erected it in order to look into some-
body's harem. Thence the Maharajah proceeded alone, in all
the glory of ordinary potentates, with horsemen and footmen,
but no Nagas.

Fortunately we had not long to wait for the grand spectacle,
and that little while was beguiled by a conversation with a
Fakir who chanced to go by, and whose acquaintance I made.
He was a very holy man, as will be easily understood when it
is explained that his hair, matted in tails, hung below his
waist ; that a quarter of an inch of mud covered his face and
neck; that he had painted that mud a striking pink and yellow;
that round his eyes were bright blue rings ; that he wore about
his otherwise naked ribs a rope which had never been untied
since the first day it was fixed there fifteen years ago ; that he
had stained his legs a dull grey; and that his nails had been
allowed to grow to the length of an inch beyond the toes. In-
deed, his sanctity was palpably acknowledged by all the other
Fakirs in Jeypore ; and when he stalked along the streets on
the extremity of his heels — that was his favourite method of
locomotion — shook a club from which were suspended a number
of little bells, and yelled out, ** Yo ho ! yo ho ! " they made
way for him as a man of whom the gods were peculiarly fond,
" Why did you become a Fakir 1 " was the question put to this
amiable gentleman. "Because I love my God very much, and
because it is the easiest way of getting to Heaven," was the
reply. " You are certain to go there, are you not 1 " " Yes,*'
said the Fakir, " I'm going there very fast, and so will you if
jou give me some backsheesh," saying which he held out a

20

314 WITS THE FBINOS IN INDIA.

ooooannt ah^, aady reoeiving a small eoiii, gave the cdnb
another Bhake, shouted out ^^Yohol" and contipqed his matoh
once more.

Just then, darimifss fast coming oUi a sslnte of guns pro-
claimed that the Prince had reached the railwaj station, and
was coming into the town* Of course we all pr^paced to receive
him, and the police thrashed the crowd with renewed vigour.
At length, through a tiiumphal arch on our right were seen the
running footmen of the procession, shutting akng with a lot of
irregular cavalry in the rear. Very irr^;ular indeed were these
horsemen, very irregular were their almost unmanagealde steeds,
too ; but they came on knocking down a few natives, perhaps, hot
still covering the ground as directed. Probably th^ were the
more careless of doing harm for the reason that, with admirable
forethought, the good Maharajah had ordered to be swung from
one-fourth of the Venetian masts that decorated the streets a
very special and effective charm against the wiles and snares oi
the Devil which had been given him by the eiccellent priests of
ih» Sila Deva Temple at Amber. This consisted oi two half-
squares crossed, and coming from suoh a source could not &il
to be useful; yet it madaUie irregular horsemen more irregular
than ever.

As to the procession, it seenied to me unique of its kind.
Perohance it was because there was not the slightest European
dement in it. All was Jeyporean in every particular — ^e
runners, the cavalry, the tom4om beaters who followed in
ciowds, and the festive gentlemen who w»*e trying to play
'*Ood save the Queen" on wooden whistles. The little band of
Europeans on the housetop were lost in ccHnpurison with the
thousands of visitors below. It was a grand pageant of the East
What else could be said of the men in red turbans and long red
and yellow gowns, who, bearing banners, rode by the side of two
elephants that carried huge flags 9 Where else, save in India,
could be found such javelin men as those who came alcmg with

AN BA8TEBK PAB18. 315

great fiilver javelins held high in the air 1 And, then the dii^-
tainSy who came next, Eajabs, Sirdars, Nawabs, all mounted on
magnificent horses, and surrounded by crowds of retainers.
How ihBy scurried along, maintaini^ no sort of order, but
simply heralding the coming of the Prince, as they mingled
with each other, and urged their steeds forward ! Not inferior
either in i^pearance was the calvacade of led horses which fol-
lowed — animals magnificently caparisoned, whose saddles were
doth of gold and round whose necks hung hundreds of gold and
silyer coins. Next there were horsemen in double lines, armed
with spears and attired in Rajpoot costiunes, while in the dis-
tance could be seen, slowly coming under the archway, torch-
bearers with a great blaze of lights.

We might regret that the day was fast closing in, we might
wish for the sun and the warmth of the morning, but for an
Eastern spectacle could anything be more fitting than the gloom
of eyening and the torchlight 1 The torches were advancing in
two lines on the pathways, in the road were the elephants on
which the Prince and Maharajah rode, and in front of these
h^ige beasts were our friends the Nagas, fighting their way in
the most approved fiEUEdiion. It is difficult to. describe the effect
produced by these capering wild men in that fitful blaze, as they
jumped and thrust and. ran and fenced under the trunks of the
two elephants that were coming up the street. No knightly
appearance had they just then ; they danced like demons, and
struck at each other with their brands. You could hear the
clash of their weapons as they rung on the shields. You could
see them fisdling on the ground as though mortally wounded,
rolling over and over, and then springing up again, sometimes
maintaining a mimic battle in line, and sometimes a running
fight, shouting, crying, yelling, as though the combat were real
and their energy not assumed. Just behind were the Prince
and the Maharajah, behind them again the Hoyal and Baj
8uite9; on a long line of elephants numbering nearly a hundred;

316 WITH TRB PBINOE IN INDIA.

and in rear of all an escort of cavalry. The people did not
cheer, yet they smiled a pleasant assent to the doings of the day.
They could not be called enthusiastic, but they were as satisfied
with the pageant as it was fiedr to suppose they could be with
anything.

CHAPTER XXXn.

TIGEB SHOOTINO AND A DUBBAB.

Jejpore is noted for tigers. Let me describe how the Prince
shot his first tiger in the Jejpore jungle.

First of all it is necessary to dismiss from your minds any
apprehension of dangerous propinquity to the lord of the Indian
jungle. To stalk a beast of this description on foot in a dense
wood, when it may spring upon the sportsman at any moment,
or to follow it along a nullah, or dry river-bed, alone, when
evening is fast approaching and the tiger can see him while he
cannot see it, is a feat of some danger. Equally dangerous is it
to track the brute to its lair, it may be in some deep, dark,
cavernous hoUow, as did that model of bravery. Sir Bichard
Outram ; but such was not the peril to which the Maharajah of
Jeypore exposed the Queen's son. Indeed, so fearful was his
Highness lest any evil should befall his Eoyal guest that no
precaution of safety was neglected, and no chance of danger left.

The jungle outside Jeypore, especially in that direction which
was selected by the Prince, is not very dense. There is a ridge
of high hills in horseshoe form protecting Jeypore from the
great Western Indian Desert, the sands of which press even
into the town. Climbing these you look down upon a wide,
expansive treeless plain — a great yellow, drifting level similar
to that which one witnesses on the Egyptian frontier. Ever
and anon the wind whirls a sand-storm into the air, and sends
it up the hills, through the gorges, and so by the passes inside
the walls of Jeypore. A merry game is that which the wind
has with the drifting dust of the desert. On these wide-extend-
ing desolate expanses neither tiger nor leopard can live ; their

318 WJTR THB PBINCB IN INDIA.

only fbelter is the range of hills — ^the home of game of all kinds,
driven thither by the sand. That there are great numbers of
these terrible fugitives a glance at the ground over which we
are climbing will readily show. Here is the footprint of a tiger,
there the mark of a cheetah ; we can see where the cushions of
those heavy feet pressed ; it needs no imagination to know that
the animal had claws. You may have heard of the Gulta, of
the far-famed Temple of the Sun, and the glorious view to be
gained of the desert, and of the far-distant hills of Ajmere. If
so, climb over the boulders and stones till an altitude of some
seven hundred feet is reached ; and then ! Hien you look down
into a precipice of wonderfal grandeur — a straight descent to
the lowest level, and thence right across the desert, seeing
nothing but sand in fh)nt, and nothing but high hills to the
right and left. Behind is Jeyix>re, spread out like a map ;
round it are the jungles in which the tigers hide.

But it is on the range where you stand that their favourite
home is found, and looking away to your right you can easDy
descry a green house of two stories — a house with a flat roof
and a parapet — on the side of one of the hills. Passing along
the ridge a large number of natives become apparent who have
been sent out to beat the woods, and to drive the game down to
yonder shooting-box. Moreover, the Prince and Maharajah,
several of the Prince's suite, and some of the most famous native
shots are all on that roof comfortably hidden behind the loop-
holed wall, A Jeypore Shikaree avers that the tiger which the
Prince is to shoot will be driven within twenty feet of that house,
and that the dangers of the sport are only for those who may
chance to be within range of somebody's rifle or in the way of
an unexpected leopard. However, the spectators wait, although
the day is sultry and the sand is hot. You are not invited to
the top of the house ; indeed, no ones knows of your where-
abouts; and it is too late now to discover yoursdf, ft)r at any
moment the tiger may be driven down, and the rifles ^ ib«
party behind the parapet open fire.

TIGER SHOOTINa AND A DURBAR. 319

Driven down, indeed ! All over the hills is a noise which
might well frighten the boldest beast in the jungle were he here.
There is sore to be something, too ; since for many days past —
three months, I am told — strong wooden cages, with live goats
inside tiiem, have been placed on the hills to attract the tigers.
How the great growling brutes have rubbed their noses against
those hard teak cases ; how they have waited till day-light came,
and then, sullenly picking up the the stray pieces of flesh which
were scattered about the ground, have sought a friendly bush
in which to hide themselves from the fierceness of the sun,
might be easdly told. They are not far off, depend upon it ; the
increase <^ sheuting on the left bodes the coming of the prey.
Suddenly a^great rush, followed by a leap — ^the bound of a
frightened; ftnimal — ^is heard, and then a huge tigress is seen
dose to the house. Close to the house? Not more than twenty
feet from it, clearly in sight, ready for the Boyal gun. Bang !
bang t It may be that the first shot has not hit it, but the
second has, for see ! the tigress is making for a hillock, and is
passing out of sight. She must not escape, however, or the
Prince will not kill to-day. Some efibrt must be made to reach
her in her hiding-place, the haven to which in her terror she
has fled. So a trusty elephant is brought — an elephant which
would dispose of the largest tiger in India in a minute with the
greatest possible ease — an elephant which has been in the jungle
on such expeditions a score of times before, and that knows as
much about tiger-hunting as Major Bradford, the great tiger
Shikaree, himself. Up in the howdah, quite out of danger, ac-
companied by one or two of the finest Jeypore shots, goes the
Prince to despatch the wounded tigress. Very cautiously, and
making a wide detour, the Prince goes round, till at length he
comes opposite his victim, when, with rifle raised, he pours two
shots into the struggling brute, and lays her dead. A minute
after, and t^e suite are on the spot to congratulate His Eoyal
Highness. Kor is the little Maharajah behind-hand in his

320 WITH THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

praises. The Prince receives their felicifcations graciotisly, a
grand triamphal procession is formed, and back into Jeypore
goes the Shahazada with his first victim. That the tigress on
being skinned is found to have been the prospective mother
of three cubs, is considered a matter for farther rejoicing.

A real Indian Durbar has but seldom been seen during our
progress through India. For reasons best known to the advisers
of the Prince, the gentlemen who had the distribution of the
fire-engines, medals, organs, albums, swords, photographs, rings,
and snuff-boxes, which comprised the miscellaneous collection on
board the " Serapis," thought fit that these delights of the eye
should be transferred from the Royal hands to the possession of
the recipients in private. We heard occasionally of a Maha-
rajah receiving a gold pin and a walking-stick in his own house;
once or twice we witnessed the affixing of a medal in the sight
of the crowd, but not often. The stately display of Eastern and
Western magnificence was not often achieved, and it was there-
fore with feelings of pleasure that we looked forward to the pro-
mised Durbar at Jeypore.

How it was held may now be narrated.

In the new palace of the Maharajah is a stately apartment,
which, according to Indian fashion, is called the Dewan-i-am.
Here, at stated intervals, the councils of the Baj are held;
here the Baj ah dispenses some justice and occasionally a little
mercy ; here there is a great daHa erected, on which a throne
usually stands, and round it meet in solemn conclave the digni-
taries of Jeypore. In the evening, long before the tiger-shoot-
ing party had returned, there had gathered in this great hall
the rajahs, chiefs, sirdars, and head men of the nation, each
dressed in his most splendid uniform, wearing the Eajpoot
turban of state, and adorned with all the jewellery which he
possessed. On the dais were two thrones ; and on either side
were six long rows of nobles seated, perhaps in all twelve
hundred notable grandees, the Prime Minister of the Maharajah

TIGEB SHOOTING AND A DUBBAB. 321

having the first place on the left-hand side of the Heir Appar-
ent. On the right-hand was a row of chairs in which the
Pnnce's suite were to sit. The place was brilliantly lighted;
in a gallery in rear of the dais were such European ladies and
gentlemen as desired to witness the ceremony ; and in a court,
yard into which one end of the room opened was a band of
musicians.

It would have been amply worth the while of a stranger to
traverse that vast hall and note the costumes of those who
were assembled there, what curious swords they carried, what
strange shields, what grand arrays of jewels they boasted, and
what handsome robes they wore. There were men with such a
profusion of gold, in turban and cloak, that it might well have
been doubted whether more of the precious metal could, by any
possibility, have been added to the needlework. There were
some with grand pearl bead work of immense value and singu-
lar beauty. Hours might have been spent in a survey of the
curious shawls from Cashmere and the far North, the Centre,
and the East of India — such cunning needlework as the rich
men of the land are most renowned for. But hours could not
thus be spent, for the Prince was coming up the steps into the
Dewan-i-am, led by the Maharajah — a little, bent man, wearing
spectacles, a gold-embroidered cap and gown. Of course, the
great assembly received the Prince upstanding,, remained so
while he took his seat on the dais at the right hand of the
Maharajah, and while his suite flocked in, in no yery regular
order, and occupied theJ places assigned them. All sat down
when the signal was given, and the Durbar was opened. Then
Major Henderson came forward, and accompanied by Mr. Lyall,
the Governor-General's Agent for Rajpootana, together with
the Resident here, led up, one by one, and introduced to the
Prince the principal nobles of thQ State of Jeypore.

A pretty spectacle was that which we now witnessed. Chief-
f*ins in all their magnificence coming forward one after another

322 WITH THE PEJNCS IN INDU.

to ihe foot of ike da&y handing a card, on which thdr names
were inscribed, to the Resident, and then, when annonnced,
ascending the steps, presenting an offering of a gold piece of
money to the Prince, with a low bow, waiting while he touched
it, Eastam fashion, and then, with many indications of humility
and loyalty, with much patting of the fwehead and many bows,
retiring backwards and making way for other chiefis. I did not
notice that any distinction was made. In coming up the steps
they were received by the Prince sitting, and each retired
backwards. But when the presentation was over two were
called up and presented with a medal by his Eoyal Highness, a
word being said to each indicative of the approval of iJie Queen
of England. I fancied they looked a little puzzled at the cere-
mony, and wondered whether it conveyed a title such as Mr.
John Jones or Mr. William Smith receives when a sword is
placed on his shoulders and he is told to rise ; but it was a
cheap mode of decoration, and was, at any rate, a distinction.
I know that there are those who will contend that this was
not a Durbar in the right sense of the word at all. There was
one old gentleman whose liver had suffered the variations of an
Indian climate for seven-and-twenty years, who was dreadfully
irate because the Prince did not take his gold pieces and give
something in exchange. But when I suggested that the money
— gold mohurs — would have been almost useless to His Eoyal
Highness, even if an attendant had, by the dose of the present-
ation, filled a small bag with them, and that the only equivalent
present which the Prince could have made in return would
have taken the form of a number of telescopes or concertinas,
that old gentleman's wrath took another form, and he declared
against the visit and all its belongings. While he was thus
inveighing, however, another ceremony was going on, and Lord
Alfred Paget was called up, presented to the Mahai*ajah, and
wreathed with a garland of flowers ; similarly, too. Sir Bartle
Frere*g neck was adorned, and then a noble went round, accom-

TiaSB SHOOTING AND A DURBAR. 323

panied by an attendant, who carried a huge basket of blossoms,
and threw a wreath over the necks of the suite and t^e hussar
officers who accompanied i^em. Then the^ was some conver-
sation, the band played Brinley Richards* Welsh air, and the
Prince, shaking hands with the Maharajah, left the hall for the
dining-room.

The scene of the banquet was not artistically beautiful. I
have befcnre remarked on the disadvantages and defects of Indian
decorative painting. There is a freedom about it, an absence of
r^ard for economy, a lavish waste of colour, which, however
satisfactory to the Eastern mind, does not fill the traveller with
delight. The ceiling of the " European room," close by, was
undoubtedly a great success ; but then it had been designed by
an Englishman, and if nine-tenths of the chandeliers and lamps
in the apartment could have been thrown out of the win-
dows-~if a selection could have been made from the musical
instrummits in the room, comprising a musical snuff-box, an
organ, a piano, a harmonium, a whistling mechanical bird, an
accordion, and a drum, it would have been still further improv-
ed; but to make the banqueting hall look better one would
require to take down the ceiling and put up another with only
one-hundredth part of the paint upon it. Still, if the room was
not tasteful, the table was prettily laid in Russian fashion, and
the banquet which followed was not unworthy of it. Much
more pleasant still was the arrival of the Maharajah just as the
ladies were leaving, and Jiis taking a seat at the right hand of
the Prince. Unlike the ruler of Gwalior, he of Jeypore, how-
ever, is no speaker ; and thus it was that he proposed the healths
of the Queen and the Prince successively in one word, drinking
a full bumper of champagne to each, and then beaming through
his gold spectacles on the assembled company. How the Prince
replied is not matter of singular importanca The most notable
thing his Royal Highness said was that he thanked his host
for giving him the opportunity of shooting his first tiger — a

334 WITM THE PBINCS IN INDIA.

remark which was, of coarse, heartily applauded by every cour>
tier present.

And then, with cigars and hookahs, a qniet half-hour was
spttit— comparatively so would, perhaps, be the better expression,
for to beguile the time, the Maharajali had ordered in a juggler
who had certain eccentricities of no mean order. This worthy
could put a decanter of water on his head, and, by the simple
movement of his eyebrows, work it round the nape of his neck,
over his ears, past his nose, and so up to the apex of the skull
once more ; and it was a highly entertaining diversion to watch
the decanter slowly moving round the edge of that vagrant
juggler. Then a gentleman was introduced who, similarly to
one at Calcutta, essayed to play two little trumpets with his
neck. A kind of "There is no deception, gentlemen" ex-
pression pervaded this worthy man's face, and the Maharajah
proceeded to explain that this performance was called Nasata-
ranga, and that it was achieved by the swelling of the veins in
the player's neck, and thus by the forcible propulsion of air
through the tubes of the trumpets. But the player had not
counted upon the guests ; at any rate, he had not quite expected
to meet Dr. Fayrer, for when that gentleman took down a
candle from a girandole, and attempted to hold it before the
end of one of the trumpets, to see if any air was really blown
through, the player, who saw his " occupation gone," resisted,
and could only be compelled by a direct order to submit. Where-
upon he did so with a very ill-grace ; no air came through, and
in the end he was pronounced a ventriloquist and an impos-
tor, and told to begone.

All this being happily settled, an adjournment took place to
a courtyard, where a tedious Nautch dance took place, amongst
the performers being an ancient dame of some fifty summers,
whose only qualification appeared to be that her eyes stared
more violently, her feet moved more irregularly, and her twirl-
ing and jumping were more erratic than anybody else's. How-

TIGEE SHOOTING AND A DUBBAB. 325

ever, a native told me that she was the greatest dcmsetue in
Jeypore, so I forbore to make further comment. If her dancing
was ridiculous, the music was as bad, and so was a performance
on musical basins which followed, so that on the whole nobodj
was particularly sony wh^i his Boyal Highness called for his
carriage, and gave the signal for departure.

The Sunday following was spent in a visit to the ruins of
Ambair, the Royal party picnicing among the ruins of Jey
Singh's ancient city, and visiting the Temple of Silla Deva,
where once men were slaughtered, but now only goats ; and a
very eminent Brahmin sang a sacred song in his loudest and
most discordant manner. Kext day the Prince departed for
Agra once morei, this time with a view of proceeding to the
Terai, with a portion of his &vdte, on a three weeks' shooting
excursKMU

CHAPTEE XXXIII
scikdia's welcoms.

It was early in 1872 wh^^ one eyening, ranembered fiidll
bj all whOy ooming from the mother oonntry, resitie in Gwalior,
a diBtingaiahed company assembled to dine in the Palace of the
Maharajah Seindia. The banquet over, decanters of wine were
circulated, glasses filled, and silence procured ; whereupon the
ruler of the State Altered, a huge silver bowl in his right hand,
and essayed to make a speech. Its languid was Hindostanee,
but its subject-matter British. In terms of loyal affection
Seindia spoke of the Sovereign to whom he owed allegiance,
whose troops had rescued him from the blood-thirsty Tantia
Topee, whose representative had restored him to his throne.
And then, without pause, he told his hearers how' that good
Queen's eldest son, once stricken by fever, had at length re-
covered, and, amid loud shouts, proposed the health and long
life of the Prince of Wales. How Sirdir and Chieftain vied
with Resident and English official in obeying that call need not
now be told. Kext morning came the news that Lord Mayo
was killed, and all that day minute guns told of Scindia's loyal
grief. From that time to this the ruler of Gwalior has been
one of the most trusted of the feudatories of the Queen ; and
that he should receive special recognition at the hands of the
Prince was therefore to be expected. At length the long*talk-
ed-of Boyal visit to his dominion took place.

Looking from my coign of vantage on the back of an elephant.
I saw on both sides of the street that, although it yet wanted
some hours to the Prince's arrival, the inhabitants were perched
in their windows, and gazing complacently into the road. The

BCXNDIA'S WELCOME. 827

natives were cliattiDg together, patting their scarfs, adjusting
their white turbans, or squatting on their haunches, full of joy
at finding themselyes so respectably attired, and so unmistak*
ably the observed of all observers. They were in the very van
of the procession, too ; to the keeping of each had been entrust,
ed a bright silver javelin, and the ladies of GwaUor were look-
ing at them through the blinds of the upper windows, or, more
adventurously still, were popping their heads out every now and
then, and peering between their fingers at the gallants in the
road. What mattered it to them that for seven hours they had
to wait in the broiling sun 9 Was not the approval of these re-
condite damsels a full reward f If they did not think so, those
who followed them, and wore red turbans and long yellow coats,
did ; for if ever contentment was portrayed, it was on the faces
of these last-named owners of ancient matchlocks. They also
sat down in the centre of the road, hardly deigning to move
when the broad feet of the elephants threatened to annihilate
them, willing to do and suffer anything rather than lay down
their muskets and flee. A little further on were some scores of
camels, all standing two by two in expectation of orders; be-
hind these again were fifty of the Maharajah's horses, all gaily
caparisoned and led by servants in uniform. Then there were
men carrying red flags, and others with white silk banners;
there were more javelin-men, and more who bore matchlocks ;
then a number of elephants, and after that chiefkains and at-
tendants galore. This end of the procession was hard by the
old palace of Scindia ; its head was scarcely half a mile from
the new one just built.

It is not easy to tell you how excited the good people of
Gwalior were at all these preparations. They were simply
beside themselves with joy at the prospect of seeing the pro-
mised show. Apparently they had invited all their friends,
too, not charging for good seats as the more practical people of
Birmingham or Sheffield would have done, but taming their

328 WITH THB FRINGE IN INDIA.

8tor€B upside down, desiring th6ir fri^ids and acquaintances to
ccaae and rejoice in the yery best windows thej bad ^ot.
Merry tbey were beyond a doubt, after the fashion of their kind,
sitting closely together, clasping their hands and beaming with
silent delight all the day long.

At the new palace itself a different scene was occurring.
There the Europeans of the district were taking their places in
corridors situate over the grand gateway in expectation of the
pageant. Hundreds of native workmen were putting a finish-
ing touch to the interior decorations, hundreds were outside
hanging up lamps for illuminations. The building, which was
as yet barely finished, looked like nothing so much as Bucking-
ham Palace repainted. From the railings outside to the flag-
staff on the roof there was scarcely any difference, only that, in
place of the stone quadrangle inside, there was a handsome
garden, prettily laid out in European fashion, boasting a splen-
did fountain and some beautiful marble work. But Bucking-
ham Palace has no such apartment as Sdndia's great drawing-
room. Upon this the ingenuity of a distinguished gentleman
named Fellowes had been wholly exhausted ; its Persian carpet,
upon which two thousand people might comfortably stand, was
of the richest hue and the most costly work ; over the back of
the gilded chairs hung the rarest cloth of gold ; its furniture
was of the newest and the best. On the walls were handsome
mirrors ; all its pillars glistened with gold ; the dome-like ceil-
ing, nearly a hundred feet from the floor, was chased with
delicate tints and gilt, and if there was a chandelier too many
the light was all the brighter. 1 have not seen a drawing-
room so beautiful in India, and cannot call to mind its equal
anywhere. Branching away from this were corridors leading
to the rooms wherein were gold toilet services,^ baths of silyer,
all kinds of contrivances for making life delightful, even to
bottles of scent whereof the labels proclaimed that they were
" The Prince of Wale»' own Bouquet,"

SOINDIA'S WELCOME. 329

How what but a week or two since was an nnfinished mass
of stone had be^i conyerted into this palatial retreat, one could
not imagine, unless upon the supposition that the 7,000 work-
men who had been employed had worked with quintupled
energy, or that Sdndia had for a moment or two got hold of the
veritable wishing cap. Anyway, there the palace was, with a
grand garden in front as well as one in the centre, all the rooms
furnished, guards of honour mounted, the mechanical singing
birds whistling melodiously on the drawing-room tables, ser-
vants all in their places, and nothing wanting except the Prince,
then on his way to Qwalior, on the high road. For as to Jum-
moo, so to Scindia's capital, no railway runs ; but some seventy
and odd miles have to be traversed by carriages which do not
always avoid ruts and holes. The Prince, however, did not
suffer from the rugged track ; he had a comfortable carriage on
light springs, whidi heeded none of these things : nor, indeed,
were we who had to sit in the humbler dakgharry so un-
comfortable as when on the rougher road to Jummoo; yet
seventy-two miles, in the morning by horse conveyances, is
iiot the happiest prelude to an elephant ride of seven
miles, and it was well that Scindia's palace boasted armchairs
and lounges in plenty for the weary ones who were hourly ex-
pected — the more so as a State dinner was fixed for the*
evening, at which the Prince must be present. Gradually
the day declined, the ladies and gentlemen in the corridors took
tea, the lamps which were placed on every line of the palace
were lit, darkness came on, and still the procession waited.
At length a sound of cannon was heard, and presently the
shouting of crowds announced that the Prince was really at
hand ; by the light of inumerable torches we could discern the
moving mass of colour as it pressed towards the palace gates
and waited the approach of the Shahazada.

Nor was there now long to wait. The wind blowing on the
verandah brought with it the sound of tom-tom and reed, of

21

330 WITH TEE FBINOB IN INDIA.

trumpets and of cheers. A long line of lights^ too, was seen
approaching. The Queen's son was very near. On came the
procession ; the javelin-men, preceded by players upon the in-
Btmments which the Hindoo loves, holding their spears aloft in
the air, and moving with no unconsidered shuffle, but a stately
toamp ! and on came also their companions with their matchlocks,
the camels and the horses moreover, the steeds prancing just as
the stately animals do when in an Eastern wedding procession
they precede the bridegroom. Nor were the men with the
banners less conscious of the dignity of their position. Ko
matter to them that the evening was advancing ; it was the
first tilde in their lives that they had had so much honour.
The white sahibs up in the corridor might be impatient, but
they were not. The palace courtyard would end tibeir dignity,
and they were in no hurry to reach it. But the Boyal elephants
must come on, and at last they were in sight, each bearing its
own lanterns, Itnd moving with majestic step. Ox> the first of
them --in a bright silver howdah, upon which the lights of ihe
torches flashed — sat the Prince, on the right hand of the
Maharajah, with General Sir Bichard Daly behind, as intex-
preter-in-chi^. And following these were the suite of the
Prince and that of the Ruler of Gwalior, all forming a grand
array of distinguished personages. The 10th Hussars, more-
over, were on either side of them ; in rear were more bands,
far-extending masses of cavalry, and behind all, the surging
astonished crowd, hand in hand, pressing on, and wondering
why the great Maharajah should thus receive the Prince Sahib.
Then sounded out the National Anthem played by an EnglisJi
band ; then English ladies waved their hajidkerchie& and Eng.
lish gentlemen their hats ; then the Prince graciously returned
tlie welcome accorded him by a band of countrywomen and
countrymen, and so passed on into the palace garden, dismounted
from his elephant, was led by Scindia to the Boyal apartments,
and then left to preside at tho feast which followed:

8CINDJA*8 WELOOMB. 831

That India is held by the merest handful of white people is
sufficiently clear to all who have travelled oyer its length and
breadthy and, indeed to those who have not. But never waiF
the singular nature of our position so clearly demonstrated at
when we saw Scindia's army dra>ii up in review order undei
the shadow of the fort and close by his palaca We had been
told tiiat as a soldier the Maharajah has few superiors ; Sii
William Mansfield had years ago wished that all our brigadiers
were the equal of the enterprising Mahratta; but it remained
for us to see the pitch of perfection to which a native Prince
could bring his troops. At Cashmere we had seen thousands o\
soldiers, but they were little better than barbarians ; in the
South, the troops of the Nizam had failed to impress those of us
who entered Hyderabad territory with anything ap{HX>aching
awe; we had yet to see the Qwalior army, and judge of it. A
great surpris^^ awaited us.

It was scarcely seven o'clock when, on mounting our ele-
phants and proceeding to the parade ground, we found the army
of Scindia drawr up vl review order, five strong battalions,
numbering quite a thousand a piece, were in the front line ; in
rear were three regiments of cavalry and four batteries of
artillery — as admirable i brigade as could be desired in point
of numl^rs. Ten minutes later Scindia himself, accompanied
by a trumpeter, arrived on the ground, and was received by
his suite, abeady in front of the troops. He had scarcely taken
his place before guns announced that the Prince was near,
whereupon Sdndia went to meet his distinguished visitor, and
very quickly conducted him into the field. I am afraid to say
how many spectators there were. The thousands who had
turned out at this early hour moved constantly from one part of
the ground to the other, their gay turbans and bright dresses
mingling till they looked like the colours which a well-filled
kaleidoscope shows. The English were mostly on elephants, of
which there were great niunbers, and the tinkling c£ the belii^

SS2 WITH TRB FKLNCE IN INDIA.

which hung from the howdahs added to the brightness and
jdeasantness of the scene.

I need not tell jou that the Prince went round the troops,
and doselj inspected them. Soindia follows European nsag^
too dosely to permit of such a custom being broken. It is of
the march past I would speak. We had already heard of the
excdlence of the Maharajah's artillery, uid were consequently
glad to see it pr^)aring to come by. But wliat will be thought
at home when it is known that to the sound of '' The British
Grenadiers," played by a band just opposite the flagstaff, a
battery of horse artillery came by, equal in drill, precision, and
appearance to some of our best troops in the A brigade t
Work on the ''piyot system," indeed? Here was a battery
which could go over the ground in a manner which would put
the best artillery in France or Germany to shama Those who
in 1874 saw the gunners .that Von Moltke could show went
home disappointed. Th^re was no one disapp<Hnted hera Old
sokUers who had seen a score oi fights, and whose home was the
parade ground, ejaculated, ^Beautiful 1" and Scindia looked
proud as he left their head and took his place by the Prince's
side. And yet another battery was dose at hand, almost if
not quite so good^the six guns going by as one, every horseman
in his place, every sword in a line. Nor were the two bullock
batteries which followed with heavier guns at all to be despised.
The men marched past as well as the best troops in the world,
and I saw nothing at Delhi to beat the drivers. Scindia may
not have known why he sent his artillery past first ; he may
have only imitated the English, because he considered them the
best models to copy ; but he certainly (^ned the review in a
way which surprised everybody present, ^all I add that his
ariallerymen wore a uniform exactly like the undress of the
Royal i^ogiment in England, and that at a very short di£h
tanoe it would have been impossible to distinguish them fix>m
SmwpeangunneisS Xhea came the cavaky, three regiments^

SCINDlA'a WML€OMB. 833

each oontaining four sqadronSi ibe first two being hassarg^ with
the pivot men carrying lances, and the last lancers entirely.
On tiiey swept'with marvellous precision^ their officers wearing
tiie white English helmet and the golden red-striped sash, as do
Ae gentlemen who carry her Majesty's commission* I could
see nothing in point of xmiform or movement to distinguish
these men from the best Punjabee cavalry we had been shown
a few days before by Lord Napier. The most captions critic
could see nothing to exercise his skill upon; the regiments
were perfect. I far one could certainly find no fSwdt with thdr
movements to the tune of ** Annie lisle." The Queen's Guards
may claim the tune, but even they would scarcely grudge their
regimental air to such soldierly men.

But if we admired Scindia's cavalry and artillery, our praise
was by no means decreased when the infantry came by. We
could perceive them forming up on our left, we could see th«
Pioneers preceding them, we could hear the ** British Grena-
diers." We were fain to cheer loudly as, with bayonets in exact
line, they came on. with a steadiness that our best troops could
not surpass. I have seen Chasseur battalions go past in far
less soldierly fkshion ; I have even witnessed parades at Alder-
shot reviews that I should not have liked a severe critic to
attend ; but these native regiments could afford to defy inspec-
tion. The finest battalion, moreover, wore the English dress
helmet and all. I noticed that they were well shod, and that
their uniforms had been carefully looked to. Even their com-
rades who had only the English forage cap elicited loud exclama-
tions of praise ; they could but be admired. And when they
had all gone past there was but one opinion about them all —
unqualified admiration. Of the gallop past I need say no more
than tiiat it was excellent

The main interest now centred in a sham fight, and the
troops were instantly divided into two equal portions, the com-
mander-in-chief holding a ridge in front of Gwalior, while

334 WITH TSa PBXNOB IN INDIA.

Sdndia prepared to attack it. % am not prepared to say tiiat
the result was not known beforehand. He woolu be a bold
sobjeot who woold presome to defeat his master in presenee of
a Boyal vintor, and a disloyal one into the bargain. But if it
was arranged that Sdndia should be the conqueror in Ms own
dominion^ there was, at any rate, the opportunity afforded i^
seeing how the troops could work in the fidd. There are those
of us who have been present at some funny spectades at Alda>
shot^ who have seen batteries disposed of, and positions taken
in a way which would have made us rub our eyes and wonder
what it all meant, if we had not known that the whole thing
was intended simply for a pretty show to amuse some potential
yidtor. Do none of us remember the famous battle in the Long
Yalleyi when the Czar of All the Russias was amused by im-
posdble cavalry charges, and wonderful artillery defeats t Let
us not be too harsh upon Sdndia, who wanted to please the
Prince and exhibit his soldiers. At any rate, he hid his men
wdl behind some excellent cover, and 4f the bullocks which
drew the heavy cannon into podtion were exposed to rifle-fire
within a few hundred yards, what of that f Do not our friends
the Germans do likewise with theii horses f I am told that
all the men we saw were armed with old percusdon-cap muskets.
If BO the skirmishers which appeared on the right of Sdndia'a;
enemy fired very quickly, and had better not be trusted with
the &iider. Worse practice has been often made with breach-
loading weapons. And as for the artillery, it may have been
placed in peril now and then unnecessarily, as it moved fmrwaid
to support the attack. General Lysons could tell you of a certain
opponent of his who once upon Fox Hill exposed his guns in
similar fashion ; and Colonel Basden, at Delhi, the othar day,
not only endangered but actually lost his battery. Altogether
there was not a great deal tofindfault with. Acavalry chaxge
at the far left of the enemy was magvdfiquey even if it were not
la guerre, and the infantry came over the ground in admirable

80INDIA*a WELCOMB. 335

gtyle, although in ordinary fighting it would probably have
appeared there for the very last time.

We all knew Scindia would win, and so we pressed our
el^hants forward, keeping well in a line with the guns, which
rattled merrily and quite w<^e up such sleepy people as. Btill
remained in bed within a radius of three miles. Indeed, it was
hard to persuade oneself that Tantia Topee was not in yonder
wood, making ready to run away, as he did in the days now
happily gone. Fortunately that person is hanged, his followers,
who leamt to run after their leader, have moved at such a speed
that they will never be found again, and Scindia is in no dread
that the result of any action he may fight will deprive him of
his throne or his palace. With which cheering knowledge the
efibrte of the enemy to stop an advance at any point were
regarded with such complacency as could be accorded by hungry
men and women, who felt that the more the action was prolonged
the longer a mudi-wanted breakfast was delayed, and eagerly
desired the commander-in-chief to throw up the sponge, hoist
the white flag, or surrender, in the politest Hindostanee, to the
])i)[aharajah. Some such thought appears to have occurred to
the commander-in-chief himself, for suddenly he sent word to
his batteries to waste powder no more, to his battalions to pile
their arms, to his buglers to sound cease firing, and to the
occupiers of the ridge to go home. Whereupon all who occupied
the howdahs blessed his loyal discretion, and forthwith made
for home to recount the events of the morning and prepare for
the levee, which presently took place in the drawing-room I
have described. Meanwhile the Prince galloped up to Scindia,
complimented him on the appearance of his men, made a neat
little speech to the soldiers also^ and so departed to the palace

CHAPTER XXXIV.

•0BNB8 Iir OWALIim.

A day or two later on it was my lot to come t^on a bajipy
valley — ^not that which Basselas and Dinarbas so rashly lefb,
but the happy valley of Gwalior Fort — ^not much larger than
the crater of Vesuvius, situated in the very heart of the flftmous
rock which stands in the centre of Gwalior's dominions. On ail
sides but one it was bounded by thickly foliaged trees ; but on
that referred to there was hard stone, carved by the Jain
worshippers of*old into grotesque idol figures ; and in the middle
of it was a deep well. From the eminence of the fort it looked
like a huge trap into which you might be decoyed for the sake
of the umbrageous shade with which it abounded| only to lose
your life in the almost hidden water below.

It was early in the morning, some hours before the Prinoe
paid his visit to the fort, that I started from the Besidency,
where I was the guest of Colonel Hutchinson. A lofty rock,
starting suddenly out of a plain, surmounted by battlements,
some four hundred feet high, a mile long, and in Bome places
half as broad — such was the place to which we were directed.
Had we gone straight to the foot of the pathway which leads
ftom the native town to the top of the hill, and at which spot
two elephants were waiting to convey us to the summit, our
task would have been comparatively light. But my companion
was an Indian archsBologist of note, a member of the Council W
Orientalists, and he had heard that on the outer scrap of the
rock, on the eastern side, were some Jain figures^ compared
with which all that had been seen by other travellers faded into
insignificance : and at his suggestion I agreed to scale the side
and inspect the sculptures.

SCENES IN GWALIOR 337

Of the Gwalior caverns, and their carvings, few know any
thing, and none very much. It may be that the work of explo-
ration has not been to tlie taste of travellers. To reach them
yon mnst ford a somewhat rapid, though fortunately narrow,
river, and then dimb up the precipitous face of the rock till you
are within a hundred feet of the top. Such a labour on a broil-
ing day is not seductive, and few have taken the trouble to
attempt it. In crossing the river we were fortunate, A pony
was offered us, and one or other would probably have mounted
and essayed to ride, when, without warning, the intractable
beast rushed into the stream, and, lying down in the water, re-
fused to move This settled the question, and we went over on
foot forthwith. How we clambered up, slipping here and tumbl-
ing there, how we penetrated bushes^ and clutched at stumps of
trees, need not be dilated upon. At length we stood on a ledge
which faced the caves and images, and were free to inspect them.

From the point where we stood we could count a score or so
6l sculptured figures, each nearly forty feet high. Some were
sitting down, and some were standing up ; they were most of
them chipped and broken ; but the Elephanta Oaves had noth-
ing like or equal to them, and their counterpart is nowhere to
be found. I am almost afrsiid to say whom they represented.
A guide-book, written by the learned but destructive Baber,
said Parisnaut, but my archseological friend triumphantly
proved, by a close argument of which I did not understand a
single proposition, that they were somebody else, and I am con-
tent to leave him master of the field. I believe that the identity
of these same images for a long time exercised the minds and
jeopardised the friendship of at least half a dozen of the most
erudite arehssologists in England, and I therefore leave it in
uncertainty. AH I can say is that, if Parisnaut was half as
ugly, his countenance would have told sadly against him in the
Old Bailey dock.

But the gods themselves were not the only things worthy of

388 WITS THB PRINCE IN INDIA.

note. The carving whidi surrounded them was as marvdlous
as the forty-feet giants themselves. Bound their heads were
shields, over whidi serpents gazed wit|^ perceptible awe. Under
their feet were animals of all kinds, whHe indescribable creatures
were represented as wandering about in a purposeless but very
palpable manner ; and at intervals of every twenty feet or so
were hollows, into which we penetrated, and found steps leading
up into the rock, oonductix^ us face to faoe with more divine
representetions; while here and there we came to a recess in
the wall, wherein was found a god or goddess jffone, with feet
high in the air, for the devout to worship. Yet funniest of all
was the admixture of Mohammedan shrines, with tiie Hindoo
deities. Four stops only ftom a goddess who boasted the thickest
pair of lips I ever saw, and was squatted upon a very bad imi-
tation of a cobra, was the tomb of a very devout follower {tf the
Prophet, with the convential 06trich-^;g hanging over it, and a
very bright gold doth immediately upon it And undei the
very shade of the most able-bodied god ia the collection sat a
Mohammeden fakir, who was just then engaged in superintend-
ing the construction of a model of a tebout, in anticipation of
the great Mohuram festival now close at hand^ not ten feet
away from a Brahmin devotee.

lliere was the greatest possible contrast between the two.
Had the Mohammedan harmonised with the place he was in,
he should have been covered with mud, and should have whined
loudly for backsheesh. He was quite clean, and if his beard
was undipped, as becomes a follower of the Prophet, his hair
was trimmed. I should think he had washed his face that very
morning. The only thing in which he resembled his Hindoo
brother was in the anxious way in which he looked tor a present
at the end. Perhaps he thought the Brahminical &kir had
quite enough clay on his face for any two peqple ; perhaps he
had some idea of the coi^fort of religion. He did not seem to
lead a life of great self-abnegation. In one of the caves dose

80ENBB IN GWALIOS. 339

by were his wife and children ; the ohupatty he was eating ap-
peared to me to be as well made as the undivided attention of
an otherwise unemployed man oould make it, and he had as tooth-
s(»ne a curry as you would get at the Madras Club in his brass
dish dose by. The only thing he denied himself was work ;
he prrftrared to sit on a broken monument in the sun, eat and
sleep, sleep and eat— only varying this programme by holding
out his huid for the alms of the faithful. The serenity of his
existence was never perturbed by anxiety for employment;
with the exception of occasionally taking a bath he did abso-
lutely nothing. The Hindoo was much livelier. The fates had
apparently not been so kind to him. He had no chupatty, and
I looked in vain for his curry ; he certainly had no wife, and I
should say that he had no cave either. Here he was, the
nearest relation to the gods on the rock — a most estimable per-
son, probably as objectionable an object as could be seen in a
day's march> aho yet he had not even a piece of betel-nut to
chew Why wat he thus neglected^ Nobody could say. He
made noise enough to attract the attention of people half a
mile o£^ yet; apparently, they left him to do as best he could.
If this state of things were to continue, he would have to cease
to be holy and actually take to labour. Is there no Hindoo
Missionary Society to assist so pious a fakir )

We left him and clambered fron^ ledge to ledge, inspecting
the wonderful sculptures of the place. Most of them had been
sadly mutilated by the Mahommedans; some of the images
had lost all signs of serpents' heads, some of them were nose-
less, many had parted with both hands and feet. Yet here
they stood, monuments of the work of the seventh century — a
permanent protest against the supposed barbarism of that age.
The execution was, in fact, most elaborate — as fine as any in
India, which is the highest compliment that can be paid them.

Quitting the examination of the caves, we now descended
the sides of the rook, and prepared to enter the fort by what is

340 WITE TBB PBINOS IN INDIA.

ftcetiously styled the '' road.** I believe the Capel Carig ascent
to Snowdon has been called one before now, but why such a
name should be given to the narrow pathway leading to the
top of Galior Fort which rises one inch in four in most places
— even more than that in some — and is so narrow in parts that
two elephants can hardly pass each other on it, I cannot say.
However, the fort had to be visited ; and not only the Prince
but all who followed him mounted to the howdahs, and pre-
sently were rising foot by foot at the rate of about five yards to
the minute.

I am bound to say that the procession was not a pleasant
one. Occasionally an elephant would stop^ and partly torn
round, and there was always the possibility that one of them
might take fright and run backwards, in which event some of
the party would have had an unpleasant and unsatisfactory ad-
venture. However, at last we reached the top, and entering
the narrow gates very carefully, were carried into the fort
The Happy Valley was behind us, a Jain temple before us ;
there was a Mohammedan mosque, now used as a powder
magazine, dose by, and not veiy fax off was a temple built in
the style common to Southern India, but of which there is
scarcely another specimen in the Northern and Central Pro-
vinces. Under the guidance of Major Gordon and the rest of
the officers of the 63rd, these curiosities were inspected till even-
ing came on.

We were in a huge eliclosure bounded on every side by a
wall and a precipice; below lay the town of Gwalior, the
Maharajah's Palace, and the English cantonments at Morar.
Whichever way we looked the panorama was magnificent, and
extended for mile& We could see the remains of the batteries
whidi the English made when Sir Hugh Hose drove the rebels
out of the fort and forced them to take shelter in the jungle.
We could descry the battle-field on which Tantia Topee suffered
his heaviest defeat. The walls themselves were hi ruins, an

SCENES IN GWALIOB. 341

agreement having been entered into with Scindia that they
were not to be repaired ; but through their crevioes and over
their sides were views of landscape sach as Turner would have
loved^ and several of our party stayed to sketch. Unfortunately
there was no one in the Koyal suite capable of ^cplaining to his
Boyal Highness the peculiarities of the buildings he saw, or
much that is interesting might have been evolved. As it was,
the most attractive place i^peared to be the mess-room of the
hospitable r^^ent which holds the place ; and an embrasure
about which there was a legend that in the early days of British
occupation the soldiers used to smuggle in spirits from below by
means of a rope and a basket at this spot and so managed to be-
come dreadfully tipsy. Legends of Jain and Brahminioal
temples there were none related— not erea. the history of the
Musjid was told; and as to learning from any competent per-
son why old templee had been patched in places with old^
stones taken no one knew whence, that was, of course, impos-
sible Still, it was pleasant to wander about amongst the ruins,
and to note the wonderful stone carvings which lay in heaps
everywhere, or still remain in the places where they were put
in times of which we have but a very dim historical record. In-
deed, a whole week, instead of two or three hours only, might
have been profitably spent in examining the figures of gods and
goddesses, portrayed in almost every attitude and action. But
the time was limited ; Hke grandest dinner of the visit waitep
in the Fuhlbagh below, and a hurried inspection was all we
could make.

It is not likely that ever Qwalior will give us trouble. Its
ruler knows too well, and those who come after him are likely
to learn, that the English are the best of masters. But, at the
same time, prudence would suggest that it should always have
at least a battery of artillery in it, which is not the case just
now ; that its walls should be restored and bastions erected, so
that its permanent possesaipn should always be a matter of cer-

342 W^ITH THE PBINCB IN INDIA.

tauity, 9Jkd, at the same time, the curioas temples might in some
way be presenred as valuable records of an almost foi^tten
past

Bat the State banqaet' which was given the Prince still re-
mains in my memory as the grandest and most memorable
feature of the entertainment which Sdndia provided for tiie
Queen's son. For reasons of space, or rather the want of it^
only three of those of us who have followed the Prince's move-
ments in the East were invited to the dinner. Sdndia's dining-
room is by no means commensurate with the wants of so hos-
pitable a potentate, and a hundred and fifty covers were all
that could be laid. But if the guests were comparatively few,
the occasion was none the less important It had been an-
nounced that alUiough Scindia could not, as became a good
Hindoo, eat with us who profess to be Christians) his Highness
would come into the banqueting hall immediately after dinnw.
How the feast therefore progressed, what courses and what
viands were produced, it boots not to tell. The Prince — ^who
had on his right hand the wife of Qeneral Bothway, and on his
left the daughter of Colonel Hutchinson the Besident — ^pre-
sided, till the cloth was removed, when a stir at the door
behind the Prince told of the advent of Scindia.

I have purposely refrained from describing the ruler of
Owalior, waiting till such time as he should appear in striking
contrast to those around him. The banquet brought that
opportunity. Habited in white, the Star of India on his breast,
with a yellow Mahratta turban on his head, a pleasant-looking
gentleman of some forty-five years appeared in the hall-entrance,
accompanied by a single attendant, his Prime Minister or
Dewan. There could be no mistake as to who the stranger was,
his quiet but regal manner proclaiming him at once, and the
Prince, who by this time was aware of the presence of Scindia,
jumped up, seized his Highness by both hands, and placed ^™
at once in the post of honour, the seat at his own right hand.

IXJENB8 IN aWALIOB. 343

Immediaiely upon tliis General Daly came up, and, taking a
chair immediately behind the two illnstrioas personages, began
to translate Uieir respective compliments.

It was easy to see that the Maharajah was almost overcome
wi^ delight and excitement. There was, indeed, some reason.
That morning his troops had displayed as fine an appearance as
any in this part of the world, receiving the highest encomiums
and he was now in the chief place at a table round which were
gathered a more illustrious assembly than he had ever before
met. For a few minutes he remained talking to his guest,
while his Boyal Highness lit a cigar — ^the signal for all present
to smoke, fbr the ladies had by this time retired. Then up
jumped Scindia, and spoke a few words to Sir Bichard Daly,
who at once inteipreted as follows : ** May it please your
Boyal Highness and gentlemen, his Highness the Maharajah
wishes me to declare that he feels profoundly grateful to the
Queen for allowing her son to come to Gwalior to see him ; that
he deiSires to express his profound loyalty to her Majesty, and
to add how deeply attached he is to the English Throne— he
calls upon yoa to drink the health of the Queen." Of course
all present responded, but somehow or other there was a
hitch — somebody gave a signal to the band, and the National
Anthem effectually stopped all attempt at a cheer. But Scin-
dia was not disheartened, and he was up again immediately
afterwards with a bumper of champagne in his hand. This
time he spoke audibly in Hindostanee. His voice was tremu-
lous, however, with emotion, and he palpably shook with ex-
iatement. '* Gentlemen," he said, '' I am delighted to see his
Boyal Highness the Shahazada (Queen's son) here to-night. I
am proud that he has come to visit me, and deeply sensible of
the high honour he has done me. I wish him a long life and
much happiness, and I sincerely hope that the voyage home may
be a prosperous ona Gentlemen drink with me the health of
the Prince of Wales." He sank down in his chair and drained

344 WITS THE FRINCB IN INDIA.

his goblet^ whereat everybody else did the same, and Krinley
Bichards' air was played.

It was now the torn of the Prince to speak, and he did his
part welL Everybody upstanding, his Boyal Highness, taming
towards Scindia, said : " I wish to call upon all pres^it to drink
to the health of the Maharajah. I am delighted at what I have
seen here, and at being aMe to visit Owalior. I appreciate i^
kindness and hospitality of the Maharajah, and I shall not fail
to convey to her Majesty the Queen the loyal sentiments he has
uttered. Gentl^nen, let us drink this toast in the English
&shion."— Maculating which, the Prince bowed to his host, and,
waving his glass, led the cheering himself. Again and again
was that call rcE^nded to, for Scindia's honest h^oe warranted
it, and his hospitality had gained the friendship of everybody.
Five loud hurrahs were, in fact, shouted out before the company
sat down, and they were only ended then because the Prince
himself was tired of cheering. Hiere was no formal attempt at
response — ^that was needless. But Scindia bowed his ac^ow-
lodgments, and then, rising to go, was conducted by the Prince
to a drawing-room, whereupon he threw a garland of flowers
over the neck of his Boyal Highness, and then went to the door
accompanied by the Prince and nearly the entire company.
A sdute from the fort proclaimed the departure, and thus this
pleasant episode ended.

The festivities shortly after concluded with an impromptu
dance, and then a number of us entered dak^ianies and spent
the night in rumbling and tumbling over the road which leads
from Gwalior to Agra.

CHAPTEE XXXV.

HUNTINO IN THB JUNOLB*

For reaspns best known to themselves, some of the advisers
of the Prince decided that none of the special correspondents of
the Londoii press should accompany him into the Terai or to
Nepaul, Sir Jung Bahadoor's very courteous invitation notwith-
standing. However, there was no difficulty in visiting the
jungle alone, even without the firman of that eccentric purveyor
oi Koyal amusements, Sir Bartle Erere, and I am consequently
enabled to give you some idea of what kind of country it was
ov^ which ^e Prince shot, and in which he spent some three
weeks of his time in India. I may premise this by saying, that
only a few of the Eoyal suite accompanied the Prince into this,
the wildest portion of his tour, and that Sir Bartle Frere, who,
was present at the less dangerous '' Sports in Cashmere,"
excused himself from the more manly sports of the jungle and
went to Peshawur. Similarly Canon Duckworth, whom we all
greatly respected, went to the frontier also, and one or two
others chose different courses ; so that only a portion of those
who had figured in Eoyal processions through cities and towns
were present when the more serious work of ferreting out the
tiger in his lair was undertaken.

Perhaps it is well that I should at once conduct you to the
frontier of Nepaul, which is cut off from British dominion
proper by the river Sarda. This stream is doubtless at some
periods of the year a torrent of what Mr. Disraeli would desig-
nate "high consideration." When the rains swell it out, it
fiows down grandly and swiftly, and tiiere is no doubt about
its claiw ^ respect. When we saw it^ however^ its right to

22 . ^

346 W-ITH THE PBINCB JN INDIA.

admiration was not so well proved. The nullah in which
it i-uns was almost devoid of water ; it was a sloggish, hesitat-
ing stream, with just as much water as would suffice to raise it
beyond the rank of a brook. At a rough guess its depth might
be fixed at about sik feet in the centre; and it was about twenty
feet across. Here it was, then, that the Prince first entered
Nepaulese territory. In front of him ran the great Himalaya
range, the chief among the mountains in sight being the stately
Dh walaghirL Time was when this great sugarloaf peak, covered
as it is with snow, was accounted the highest in the world, and
accordingly reverenced. But long-headed irreverent mathe-
maticians have since then made calculations, and, despite all
remonstrance, have installed Mount Everest as queen of hills.
Still the huge eminence before you as you cross the Sarda is
not to be despised. Twenty-eight thousand feet above the level
of the sea, it towers aloft beyond any other rival wil^iin many
leagues, and it were well worth the journey to its base to see
its cloud-capped top and its snowy sides.

Nor can it be considered as a valuable gem in an unworthy
setting ; for wherever the eye turns rich .verdure, great thick
forests, and tall elephant grass, higher than the howdah in
which you sit, is seen. One would as soon think of looking for
a needle in a haystack as a tiger here, and, indeed the search
would be^ about as fruitless, were it not that experience has
shown the way by which the brutes can be reached. Place but
a single torch to the base of a bunch of grass and instantly the
air is full of smoke. With a loud crackle and jx)ar the prairie
burns wildly, leaving here and there a patch unconsumed.
Thither have fled tigers, leopards, wild boars, bears, and all
other kinds of game, and now your only requirement is a steady
elephant and a sure rifle. For these jungles are by no means
the peaceful places their appearance at first sight denotes.
Enter any one of the little villages which dot the plain, and
without much trouble you may almost invariably see the marks

MUNTING IN THE JUNQLB. 847

of the lord of the Indian forest Some cow which has strayed
a few feet from the huts is shown you, its neck marked by the
four canine teeth only of the strong beast which has killed it,
and purposes to return when night falls to eat it. Occasionally
the skull may be found smashed by the huge forearm of the
tiger^ but that is not often. One terrible bite and all is over ;
there is no time for resistance or struggle. Even the thorn
hedge by whidi all villages are surrounded has been unavailing
to save the feeble victim. Nepaulese tigers are not to be
baulked of their prey by any such' device. They .care no more
for thorn hedges than they do for the masonry pillars which
are dose to the river, and mark off Nepaulese from British
territory. Why should theyl They are almost as numerous
as the half-clad, half-starved people themselves, and much more
intelligent. This, then, is the region to which the Prince went
with much ceremony.

Of course Sir Jtmg Bahadoor met him, and in the name of
the Maharajah presented a flowery address; equally, of course^
the Prince replied in pleasant terms. There were very naturally
references to the Mutiny, and to the services of the Nepaulese
Government in those troublesome times ; there were promises
of future loyalty on the one side, and continued Mendship on
the other. Then came a review, in which Sir Jung Bahadoor's
troops, drawn up in line, acquitted themselves much in the same
way as the soldiers of the Maharajah of Cashmere, and then the
formal reception was over. But the pleasures of the trip had
only just begun. As a loyal and dutiful subject of the Queen,
Sir Jung Bahadoor had determined to give her eldest son some of
that pleasurable excitement which every true sportsman so
dearly loves, and to this end had organized a grand hunt which
should cover all that part of the jungle which contained the
largest number of tigers.

I have already told you what efforts the Maharajah of Jey-
pore made to attract the wild game of his district to the neigh-

348 WITH TEB PSINCB IN INDIA.

boariiood (^his capital; it is only fair to add that the BCahara-
jah of Nepaul had more saooessfblly exerted himself. All the
meant he oould devise were put in motion, all the tigers he
could drive into a good position for the Eoyal rifle were driven
up, and all the elq>hanti he had were placed at the service of
the Prince. One unhappy result was arrived at through these
v«ry precautions Ai a general rule this vast mass of elephants
8D intimidated the tigers that they absolutMy refused to move,
and were shot whwe they <»ouched for cover. Very generally
the wretched animals were pointed out to the Prince, who forth-
with fired at them at a safo but certain distance and so killed
them, (kioe, however, a tiger charged his Boyal Highness'
elephant Up it i^rang, well nigh into the howdah in which
the Prince was standing; the elephant turned its flank; the
Mahout was frightened, and there was for a moment some pmL
But getting into the howdah is a very different matter — for a
tiger — ^from climbing on to the side of the el^hant, and it is
questionable whether the infuriated beast would, after all, have
dcme any very great damage. However, the Prince who had
{denty of rifles at hand, very fortunately had presence of mind
sufficient to fire into the tiger's isuce, and so put an end to all
further doubts by killing the wretched animal.

On another occasion His Boyal Highness was present at the
entangling of some wild elephants in the N^)aul jungle. But
this is a sport which has been so frequently described that I
need do no more than allude to it here. Generally the hunters
returned at the close of the day with what in England would
be called a good bag; and once the Prince of Wales shot six
tigers before he came back to cunp. At first, camp etiquette
prevailed' to a greater extent than afterwards, and no one but
the Prince was supposed to shoot ; but after a while this was
forgotten, and very often the members of the Boyal suite shot
more than their master.

TJs^ess is it to attempt to chronicle the doings of the Nepaul

HUNTING JN THE JUNQLB. 349

hunting party, for wliat they achieved was done with the aid of
resources which were never before affordbd to sportsmen, and
possibly never will be again. More interesting by far is it to
me to recall the delightful mornings I spent in the Himalayas,
hard by Qungootra ^tnd Jumnootra, the frequent views of the
land of perpetual snow, the vast expanse of mountain land,
which spreading towards Thibet may be seen from the hill
stations of the north of India. To such as may visit our empire
of the East in times yet to come, I would recommend a trip to
the hiUs, in preference to anything else I can think of in con-
nection with my visit to the far East.

CHAPTER XXXVL

ALLAHABAD AND ITS SIGHTS^

Allahabad^ which was one of the last places the Prince
visited, the capital of the North-west Provinces of India, is no
unimportant city. If it has nothing else to recommend it to
the pious Hindoo, it boasts the undying sacred tree, to worship
which thousands of religious people have travelled thousands
of miles and have given thousands of rupees. As an ardent
admirer of the constant circulation of money, I regret to say
that the object of reverence is in great adversity just now; that
rupees are likely to be brought to its roots no longer; that the
indefatigable priests whose business and pleasure alike it is to
conduct the ceremonies which experience has shown are best
fitted for such a tree are in great dread lest the services should
cease for very lack of faithful worshippers ; and that, in short,
the famous underground temple of Allahabad Fort is in a very
fair way to be shut up altogether. The cosmopolitan religion-
ist, the lover of all kinds of worship, will, perchance, ask why
this calamity overhangs so sacred a shine. Let me relate.

Many, many years ago, so far back that no one even guesses
at the date, an exceptionally devout man, whose dwelling wag
below ground, discovered in his cave a tamarind tree which,
although it never pierced the upper crust of the earth, flourished
in the darkness below. He did not keep the knowledge to
himself; on the contrary, he disseminated it among his acquaint-
ances and friends; and as in those good old days there were no
uncomfortable sceptics, his cave became shortly a very holy
place. I do not think that tamarinds were ever supposed to
grow upon that wonderful tree ; the only thing the fakir urged

ALLAHABAD AND ITS SIGHTS. 351

was that shoots, delicate young green shoots, came out every
spring on that recondite log, and that their appearance was the
work of a highly respectable deity. Still, that was surely suffi-
cient ; it was a perpetual yearly miracle. Who that hoped for
salvation, provided he were rich enough, would fail to procure
one of those wondrous shoots 1 Besides, was not the very fort
itself built close to the confluence of the sacred Ganges and the
almost equally sacred Jumna 1 Could not the sandy yellow
stream which flows from Gungootra be actually seen from the
walls of the citadel as it crossed the flood of the river from
Jumnootra? It undoubtedly was a fortuitous and fortunate
concurrence of events which should take the pilgrim to Benares^
to the golden temple and the burning ghaut ; but, failing that,
no journey could be more profitable than the one which should
bring the devotee to the junction of the rivers and the sacred
tree.

The fact was recognised. For hundreds of years the faithful
from Madras and the Himalayas, from Calcutta and Bombay,
from the other side of the Great Desert, and even from Ceylon,
came to do Poojah in the cave and buy a sprig of the tree.
Yery obligingly the most pious fakirs of the district united to
assist at the worship. They cut out the cave with great care,
they collected the idols of all sorts and conditions of Hindoo
men, and put them up in suitable places ; they made, in fact,
all kinds of arrangements to please everyone who might chance
to appear. Did a Jain come hil^er, there was the well-known
figure of him to adore; was Parbati the deity of the visitor,
she was to be found in a most comfoi-table comer without the
slightest difficulty; Kali of the black face, Hanaman with the
monkey's tail, Silla Deva, Shiva, Yishnu, and Brahma, all were
there; so that the visitor had ample and unrestrained choice.
Little wonder then that the shrine was popular, or that devotees
were numerous.

Bat reverses of fortune come to all, and the sacred tamarind

362 WT^if ^SJS FRINOi Hf INDIA.

tree^ the oave, and the priests proved no exception to tiie rule.
A military Pharadi who knew not the Fakir Joseph who lived
in the cave came to Allahabad Fort, and without any hesitation
pronounced the tree a swindle. '^ It is not," rejoined tlie Fakir.
'< We shall see," replied the Major, and he forthwitli gave orders
that when the next spring time came no tree trunk ready to
sprout should be allowed to pass the gates of the fort. - Never-
tiieless, the priests were triumphant ; the Major presently found
them in full possession of a live tree and surrounded by thou-
sands of congratulating Hindoos, who rejoiced exceedingly at
the continued miracle. Still the Major was not to be conquer-
ed; he made fierce inquisition, and then found that a venal
sergeant of the guard had, in oonsid^ation of the sum of fifty
rupees, allowed a firesh tree to be passed into the fort in the
middle of the night. Then began the troubles of tiie priests
once more, and since that day they have continued, for, widi
the additional precautions taken, their efforts to substitute a
fresh tamarind have been frustrated, and the old trunk, which
qprouted so satisfactorily last year, shows no more shoots this
qprii^ than if it had been dead a centuiy.

Allie^abad, then, is celebrated, if for nothing else, for the pos-
session of this once prosperous but now fallen shrine ; it is, how-
ever, notable for much more. Kot only was it a favourite
residence of Akbar, but it was here that Nana Sahib held his
court in 18 V. Now, however, instead of being the head-
quarters of law-breakers, it is the chosen seat of law-makera and
administrators, the fountain of justice for the whole of the
Korth-West. To it come the litigants of the province, and
how numerous they are those can estimate who know how fond
of law Hindoos are, and how discontented and trouMesome forty
millions of such suitors can be.

Entering the courts of justice, you find five or six Judges,
presided over by Sir Bobert Stewart, the Chief Juisiice. Of
these legal gentlemen two are, rery fortunately, barxistenS; who.

ALLAHABAD AND ITS SIGHTS. 353

in consideration of a display of ability and fitness at home, have
been sent out to India; the others are civilians. In the first
court, Sir Robert and one of his brethren are hearing an appeal
which may be taken as a fair sample of the cases which employ
them 1^ the year round. To an eye unaccustomed to Oriental
courts the scene is peculiar. No one wears a wig, not even the
chief himself. Nor have all the banisters gowns 1 they, indeed,
are about as moiley a group as may easily be found in India.
Seated at a long table in the well of the court, they represent
the natives of the country in more senses than one. The one
at the extreme right, as you sit on the raised dais appropriated
to the Judges, is a Mohammedan, very admirably attired in a
brown striped turban, a dingy yellowish green gown, and cum-
merbund ; he has neither rings on his fingers nor shoes on his
toes, and as he stands up to speak, barrister of large practice
though he is, his naked feet have to meet the boards. Next to
him is an English pleader, in gown and bands. A Bengalee
Baboo, with the hat so well known to all who have visited Cal-
cutta, and long, black cloak, is third ; then a Blndoo pur et
ample, with white turban, drab petticoat, and naked feet. A
Mohammedan, attired exactly like his English brethren, gown,
bands, and all, is the fifth ; and a half-caste, or Portuguese, the
last.

Just as theii* appearance is eminently characteristic, so is the
case which they are debating. A Hindoo lady long since
defunct lent various sums of money to a native gentleman also
gathered to his fathers. She and he both being dead, what
more natural, according to Hindoo usage, than that her descend-
ant should xdaim from his that the lady had actually lent
more than was originally supposed, and that therefore, the
bon-ower's heirs were liable for more than they had re<^oned
upon. And what more natural either than that the other side
shoidd vigorously dispute the matter, and b^g up just as
maaiy wxtnesses ready to swear anything as the plaintiffB had

854 WITH THB PBINCB IN INDIA.

oontriyed to produce t All this being eminentlj in accord wiih
the costoms and practices of the enlightened people over whom
we role in India, it may be justly inferred that long practice
has made them very perfect, and that to dismember the case
from its intricacies would require all the legal acumen of the
most dear^hted Judges.

Thus it is that you find after the Mohammedan owner of the
striped turban has finished his statement that an exhaustive
alignment begins on the meaning of some particular word in a
kind of agreement which is produced. '< The word Ar in this
document," says the Mohammedan, ** means mortgage, and is
intended to convey the wish of the borrower to give up his land
if he oould not pay his debts." **No such thing," rejoins one
of the Hindoo barristers, **Ar means nothing of the sort.''
" What does it mean then V asks the Chief-Justice ; whereupon
a number of dictionaries are brought in, and the barristers are
soon all immersed in philological research. '^ My dictionary
gives ' Ar, a ladle used in a sugar factory,'" says Mr. Justice
Pearson. ''Mine calls it 'a goad,'" ejaculated Sir Bobert
Stuart. ''It is a line drawn across the forehead, my lord,"
says the Baboo barrister, " and probably refers in some distant
manner to the pledge of religious fidelity which my countrTmen
give when they worship." "That's not right,'/ rejoins the
Hindoo ; " ilr is the synonym for drowning, and is intended to
convey the idea of being deep in debt" Whereupon the Court
very sagely wags its head, and rules against the idea that mort-
gage is meant, and so the case proceeds. Incidentally it
transpires that the interest on the original sum claimed has
already amounted to five times the principal, and that in process
of litigation the estate concerned has long since been s walled up.
After all, it would seem that " Ar" was not a bad word to
apply to that defunct gentleman's ground.

In this way the case proceeds all day. Technical objections
are raised every few moments by one dde or the other; thes«

ALLAHABAD AND ITS SIGHTS. 355

IS an endless fight over words ; and at last the oonrt rises, and
the question of what is meant bj the document after all, or
whether the gentleman who wrote it ever had the money he
wanted, is left undecided. However, the lawyers are happy if
their dients are not, and, as time is '' no object '* to any well-
bred Hindoo, it is probable the litigants themselves are not
greatly disappointed after alL

OHAPTEE XXXVH

BNOLISH LIFX IN THB filTitS.

Smallest of all the mountain stations to which Indians escape
from the heat of the sun, Nynee Tal received a visit from the
Prince, who stayed but a few hours in the hills, whilst his pre-
sence was marked bj no occurrence worth noting. How
different the case might have been had his Eojral Highness been
led to Mussoorie, let me point out.

Unlike Simla, the great summer capital of India, this eagle's
nest is within twelve hours* reach by rail. Were you inclined
to see the chain of snow-clad mountains from the Viceroy's
Palace, you must needs submit to a five hours' journey in that
most uncomfortable of vehicles, the dak-gharry — ^a kind of
dilapidated London cab with the well boarded over — and then
a perpetual ascent upon ledges more or less narrow for fifty-six
miles farther, your choice of conveyance lying between a kind
of palanquin, called in the language of the district a '^^ jhampan,"
borne on the unequal shoulders of eight reckless savages, or a
country pony the only qualification of which is that he is toler-
ably sure-footed. To reach Mussoorie the difficulty would be
&r less. You would have a rather more prolonged jolting in
the dak-gharry, perhaps you might get a tumble over a little
precipice, as did some travellers only a few days back ; but once
at the foot of the hUls, in the village of Rajpore, the only re-
maining effort would be a steep ascent of seven miles, which on
a country pony could be achieved in as many hours. I have
mentioned that a happy characteristic of these creatures is their
sure-footedness ; and it is fortunate they possess it, for it is over
no wide, easy, well-guarded road that your path lies. As a
general rule, you are most of your time within a foot of the

mQLISH LIFE JN THE HILLS. 357

edge of an abyss many liu;ndred8 of feet deep. It is useless to
endeavour to force your horse to go closer to the rock above.
Experience has taught him that sometimes those overhanging
stones are loosened and fall, perhaps at some time or other he
has had a narrow escape from being crushed, and he resolutely
declines to obey the bit. It is as much as your life is worth to
spur him or to fight the question of mastery out in such a place.
Most probably it is not five feet wide in all, and a sharp jerk
might send you over the side. There is the remembrance of
Sir Eichard Temple's narrow escape on just such a ledge not
many months age, when the ground over which the horse was
trotting gave way, and the Lieutenani^Govemor of Bengal only
saved his life by springing from the saddle.

Tet 'difficult and somewhat unplea§ant as is Mussoorie of
access, it would not be wise to miss it on that account. Every
step taken, every comer passed, every fresh altitude attained,
unfolds to the astonished eye fresh beauties and marvels of nature.
Down below is the Dhoon valley, through which runs the Jumna,
on its way to Allahabad. Like a bi*ight streak of quicksilver it
divides the pleasant landscape, and gives it fertility. Nor is
the valley itself unworthy your attention. Here and there it
is dotted with little villages, of which that of Rajpore, through
which you came, is a fair specimen. In those mud-built
hovels, with straw thatches, live, all their lives through, the
contented people of the plain, almost wholly engaged in the
cultivation of tiny plots of ground and in the curing of skins.
For round about here bear, leopard, lynx, and even tigers roam
free. There are deer in plenty, with game of the lesser sort,
and these harmless people, having learnt the art of dressing
skins as no others can, are employed all the year round by the
white Sahibs, who come hither for the purpose of shooting. It
is nothing to them that the work is monotonous ; that their
whole lives are spent in the everlasting scrubbing and scrap-
ing of buck and cheetah skins. They are paid, and that is all

868 WITH THB FMNOB IN INDIA.

they care for. What is life to them but a saooession of eating,
drinkiiig, sleeping, and waking t Far from their ken lies the
restless, busy world beyond, and they have no de^e but to do
as their fathers did before them.

Very different people are those who are carrying your luggage
up the mountain side. They are men of the hills — strong,
muscular, restless beings, who love nothing so much as royiiig
and roaming. Most ef them were bom in Thibet, or in the
stray hamlets whidi are to be found in all parts of the Hima-
layas. Their hair in front is cut short, so as not to impede the
▼ision of their Mongolian eyes. It hangs down long at the
sides as a protection for their ears. All the covering they have
is a i*ough rug, and their feet are kept from the crags by only
a straw shoe. Yet, thus equipped, they would start immediately,
if directed, across even the great snow-covered ridge of mountains
into Central Asia, at the risk of getting nothing more sub-
stantial than icy water for days — ^four hundred miles of moun-
tain travelling. . They smile when you say it is an impossibility ;
and three out of six of them tell you they have already
achieved it. Indeed, an English officer who is near confirms
their story by stating how, one bleak October, he and a com-
panion, escorted by a hundred and twenty of these hardy
savages, were safely conveyed through snow, river passes, and
over steep ridges, with little more trouble or danger than we are
experiencing now, and points to the fact that four men who died
in j^ocess of that journey were not natives of the hills, but
counterfeits, who wore warm clothing, and thought by such
means to emulate the nearly naked but immeasurably hardier
children of the Himalayas.

What these great heights are like you cannot as yet tell ; for
though the distance beneath is immense, you cannot see many
feet upwards so projecting are the moss-covered cliffs. And
sometimes you catch a glimpse from some rounded spur of a
mass of mountains, though this is only for an instant. At length

ENGLISH LIFE IN THE HILLS. 359

you begin to near the top, and to gain an idea of an Indian
sanatorium. Perhaps the first notification is a cutting blast of
a cold north wind. Then you look round, and find that you
are skirting a kind of huge basin ; that the ledge you are on
leads slowly up to a point on which a great white building
stands; that here and there other houses are peeping forth
from cavernous hiding-places, and that all these various struc-
tures are upon shelves similar to that which you are traversing.
You are, in fact, making your first acquaintance with Mussoorie,
with all its bungalows and cottages. Perhaps you somewhat
expected to find a street or road, some kind of thoroughfare on
which you might amble at ease. There is nothing of the sort,
in the ordinary acceptation of the terms, in the place. It is
one succession of ledges and precipices. Wherever a level spot
could be found, or a hill-top whereon a house could by any
possibility be placed, there one has been erected. Then, to reach
it, a cutting has been made in the rock sufficiently wide for
two horses to pass ; perhaps a slight railing has been fixed at
the more precipitous parts and abrupt turnings, and all that is
c(msidered necessary has been done. If you are ignorant of
the way, you will not wander about at night time alone. A false
step would precipitate you into the valley below.

Once in Mussoorie, it is easy to see why wealthy Anglo-
Indians shotild flee here to escape the sun in the plains. Seven
thousand feet above the level of the sea and even more, a cool
breeze is perpetually playing ; the temperature is almost the
same as that of England, and, were the ground only moderately
even, life in this retreat would be a delight. Level it is in one
direction, and in that only. Passing by the English church,
which is itself perched on a point of rock overlooking a deep
valley, the traveller quits the houses of Mussoorie, and enters
the jungle which covers the hills. How beautiful this is, only
those who have seen it know.

Gingerly picking its way, your house leads you through forests

860 WITH THS FBINCB IN INDIA.

of rhododendrons fifty feet high with stems as thick and as
strong as ehn trees, and branches covered with myriads of bright
red blossoms — or you find yourself in a region of ferns, with the
huge wide-spreading leaves overtopping your head — or a little
further on you find your path bestrewn with acorns, shed from
the Himalaya oak. Pheasants, startled by the unwonted sound
of your horse's hoofs, fly up with a whirr into the impenetrable
recesses above or down into the denser foliage beneath. Mag-
pies chatter round you by hundreds, and parrots with bright,
green feathers keep them company. You will do wdl not to
have brought a favourite dog with you, for below are crafty
leopards waiting quietly for such stray pets as may incautiously
penetrate their hiding places ; and your presence will scarcely
suffice for its protection should a hungry cheetah cross your
terrier's path. With a bound much swifter than those tame
hunters of Baroda and Jummoo, the leopard gains the ledge,
seizes its prey, and disappears into the thicket. Last season, at
the very spot on which we are standing, the retriever of my
companion was well-nigh snatched away, two strong men barely
sufficing to baulk the leopard of its intended victim. Let it not
be imagined that a man need fear anything. The strength of
the leopard is no gauge of its bravery ; and he never faces a
human being unless brought to bay.

At length you emerge from the jungle for a few yards, and
then what a view presents itself 1

Straight away in front lie the larger mountains of the Him-
alayas, the great snowy range of which so much hs^ been said,
but of which so little is known. There is Gungootra, the source
of the Granges, with its four bright peaks and long connect-
ing range, and almost touching it Jumnootra, whence flows
the Jumna we have but lately seen in the valley of the
Dhoon. "From yonder glaciers the two streams flow, re-
inforced in diflerent places and from diflerent mountains,
till they become the gigantic rivers which the Hindoos wor-

ENGLISH LIFE IN THE HILLS. 361

ship, which meet at Allahabad, and flow into the sea by
Calcutta, Side by side they move together. You coufd cross
them both in a single day were you but down in the
valley. Indeed, there is a point at which you can see the
crevices of two separate waterfalls, each of which you are told
empties itself into a different river. But on this point you can
scarcely assure yourself; Tou would have to climb over scores

» of mountains, each of them as high as the great Pilatus at
Lucerne ; you would have to press your way through jungles
so dense that in the summer-time, when the rains have fallen
and vegetation is ripe, they are almost impassable, and you
would have to be careful not to lose your way, else you might
hopelessly wander in search of your goal till you reached an
uninhabited region, and there cease to exist. Still there are
those who have successfully adventured, and tell you that Jum-
nootra, when close at hand, resembles nothing so much as a
huge cathedral, that its towering peak, which reaches a height of ^
twenty four thousand feet, is like the spire of a lordly fane,
and that its snows make you almost believe that it is built of
the purest white marble.

One might easily believe this sitting under the shadow of
bending bamboos, close to a little waterfall which has been
utilised for the purpose of lunch, so grand is the mountain
which shuts in the horizon. But unhappily a lengthened look
is scarcely possible, for the sun is fast setting, and what is more
important stUl, a storm is gathering, and we are six mUes from
home. Every now and then the moan of wild beasts can be
heard among the trees, the clatter of the birds is incessant, and
our horses plunge and kick as the black clouds float towards
the valley we are in. Six miles to climb up rocky path and

jungle, six miles on ledge and shelf, our horses unsteady, and
the rain coming on ! Yet who would miss the sight of a storm
in the Himalayas ) The stream of light which now and again
revealed the two great mountains and all their lesser kin more

23

362 WITH THE FRINGE IN INDIA.

Uian compensated for the terrific downpour of rain whiqih accom-
panied the vast illumination ; and if the journey was tedious,
the spectacle was grateful as being one we might never witness
again*

Such, then, is the place to which wealthy Anglo-Indians go
in the hot season, and send their wives and children. Once
here, their diversions are numerous, for to the En^ish whose
life is spent in India the chief thought always is how much •
pleasure may be best extracted from the life they are forced to
lead. Very naturally this characteristic is not lefb idle in the
hills, and thus it is that in addition to the private sodal rSurdon
there is always a daily assembly of all who are held to belong
to society.

• To effect this it is necessary that there should be a general
rendezvous, and this is formed by the establishment of an
Institute at every station. Thither, as soon as the sun loses
somewhat of his power, in the afternoon all bend their steps.
Ladies ar^ carried in their jhampans, gentlemen go on horse-
back or afoot. To be absent would be about as unwarrantable
a failing as an Anglo-Indian could well imagine. Nor is this
without reason, for more pleasant hours could not be spent.
For the stronger men, who are swift of foot and adroit of wrist,
there is lawn tennis, in playing which residents in the North-
West are adepts. Perhaps it is owing to the fact that in years
gone by racquets were a favourite game. Anyhow, men who
come fresh from England invariably find themselves no match
for the residents, and have to work hard before they can cut a
respectable figure in the lawn tennis court. But after all Bad-
minton holds its own against all other diversions ; and if you
have any doubt as to the perfection to which this excellent
game can be brought, you have but to invite the first two or
three ladies who may chance to come from India to illustrate their
ikill, when you will quickly be convinced, especially if you
•hance to figure in the opposing court. They form parties which,

ENGLISH LIFE IN THE HILLS. 863

evening after evening, from one month to another, play without

ceasing. You know where to find Colonel S ; you can tell

exactly at which net his wife is playing; the Commissioner
will be at his post to a moment, and the Assistant Magistrate's-
wife will be cheerfully batting away on the spot where you saw
her a week ago, at the very same hour. There is no obstacle
they will not overcome to ensure their favourite game. Is the
sun still too hot for them to venture out of doors 1 Then a
bed-room is turned out, the net is stretched across, and the
shuttlecock is soon flying merrily in every direction. Are they
at a hill station, where all is ledge and shelf and slope 1 A
hundred coolies are immediately set to work to hew and cut at
the ground till a level place is made and roped in ; then up goes,
the ever-appearing net, and the bats are in full swing directly.
Of course, Mussoorie is no exception to the rule. All round
the Institute crooked places have been made straight, and
rough places plain, rock has been actually blasted with gun-
powder to make way for the all-pervading shuttlecock, and aa
to trees, they have certainly not been allowed to stand in the
way. Only mention the possibility of Badminton, and the trees
are moved off as if by magic. Nor is this altogether without^
its good results. How much liver complaint has been warded
off doctors do not like to say. But the fact remains that fewer
people in proportion go home to England in the hot weather,
though money is apparently more plentiful than ever. For
those, however, who do not care for such athletic exercises^
there is the well-kept floor of the Institute itself; some volun-
teer is always at the piano ; no master of ceremonies is needed,
for all know each other, and partners are whirling round with-
out intermission. Staid old men spend their time in the read-
ing-room or at billiards; matches are even made here by
thoughtful mammas, and young officers, military and civilian^
are inveigled into the joys and sorrows of matrimony. I know
a station in which five officers in one English regiment have

864 WT^Ja^ ^JM? PBINOB IN INDIA.

thiiB been entrapped during the past six months^ two of them
sabaltema.

This, then« b life in India; another side to the {nctnre conld
be shown, of terrible heat and ntter prostration during the six
summer months down in the plains. But why think of this
when the ringing laughter from the Badminton court mingles
with the music in the Institute, the clicking of the billiard
balls, and the soft conversation of lovers )

The journey of the Prince of Wales, so far as India was
concerned, concluded shortly afterwards; his Koyal Highness
merely pausing on his way from Allahabad to Bombay, to pay
a flying visit to Holkar, at his capital of Indore. Of the
political and social results of the trip it is not my purpose to
speak in this place. Suffice it to say, that owing to the united
efforts of military and civil officials of India, his Boyal High-
ness was afforded, in the course of the four months he spent in
that marvellous country, an opportunity of gaining knowledge
with regard to its resources and its peoples, the like of which
was never eigoyed beforei and, possibly, never will be again.

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